[vigsom]

@vasanthjn,

My replies in line

Originally Posted by vasanthjn

1. 2008 1.8 V - 2nd Owner and ODO has clocked 81K kms.
2. 2009 1.8 G - 3rd Owner and ODO has clocked 37K Kms.

My expected usage would be 30 %City and 70% Highways.

1. How good is the auto box in 1.8 V? Will it have any major replacement cost around 100K Kms?

The 4 speed AT is a general no nonsense gearbox. Its transmission fluid doesn't ever need to be changed. So, if the box works well viz. shifts gears without jerks, you are all set.

The V AT comes with cruise control too which you don't get on the manual.

2. Considering the usage, is 1.8 G is good for me?

Of course yes. But one question - is this third owner the TN22 car at TSM? Reported a little scuffy with a judder in the clutch.

Otherwise G is a good choice - no fog lamps, no auto headlamps, no HID bulbs on low beam, no power seats, no leather, no auto headlamps.

3. What is the average FE in both the models in City / Highway? 10-13kmpl in city and 16 on the highway if speed is <100kmph
4. My expected usage would be around 7-8K Kms / Year. Perfect for any car
5. Is it advisable to look for a D4D G?

I wouldn't recommend unless you are fine with the small 1.4L engine and huge turbo lag. It is sluggish in the city but a fuel efficiency champion too. One can easily extract 20-22kmpl on highways because of the sixth cog.

[vasanthjn]

Hi vigsom,
Yes, it’s the same car at TSM. Please let me know if I need to stay away.

They did have a 2008 1.8 V @ 4 Lakhs. There was some minor dents in that car.

What I mentioned earlier (1.8 V) was with an individual in Tiruvanmiyur.

Also if you come across any good Corolla Altis please let me know. TIA.

[vigsom]

Originally Posted by vasanthjn

They did have a 2008 1.8 V @ 4 Lakhs.

That was a light blue I guess. Except the chaffed leather seats, that car looks okay.

You could test them all out. For the AT, your test drive has to be a little longer where you'd need to feel how the car shifts through all gears.

[fordfreak]

Needed a bit of help regarding my 2010 Altis.

My left ORVM got knocked off by an errant auto. The mirror, case, electric fold + adjust mechanism are working perfectly. Only the mirror mount that attaches to the door (base on which the mirror is mounted) is broken. I approached my dealer but they said they do not sell the child part. It makes no sense to replace the entire assembly (it costs 20K) just for a Rs. 500 / 600 part!

Have temporarily tied the mirror mount in place, but it looks awful and keeps drooping every few days. Nor am I able to fold the mirror for now.

This part is available at FNGs but they don't seem to be OEM, hence, the fit & finish isn't the best (I have used a non-OEM mount before).

Would appreciate any advice on where I may source this. Thank you in advance. (Mods, please delete / move my post to the relevant thread if this is incorrectly posted)

[vigsom]

^^
My suggestions as as follows:

1. Get the mirror assembly removed at any private garage/ accessory shop - the door panel needs to be removed to disconnect the motors wiring coupler and get the tweeter cover off to access the screws.

2. Stick the broken joint with araldite( the regular one not the quick setting type) and allow.it to set overnight. Tie a rope around the joint to keep.it tight while the araldite sets.

3. Reinforce the stuck joint with some good black tape or rubber belt .

4. Refit the mirror and for the coupler back.

Alternatively, you could look for an.old mirror at the old spare parts shops (like Pudupet in Chennai, you'd have one there too) . And just transfer the mounting bracket to your mirror.

[fordfreak]

Originally Posted by vigsom

My suggestions as as follows

Thank you for your prompt response sir!

Unfortunately, the part is too damaged to try the adhesive option. Replacement is the only solution. Will try to source a used part from one of the spare parts stores here. If I do not get a good quality option locally, I will just go ahead and claim insurance (service adviser suggested this too).

[skarthikeyan]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

That said you might want to get the throttle body and MAF cleaned. Most likely in traffic these have carbon deposits causing the fluctuating idle rpm.

Originally Posted by R2D2

The engine warms up to operating temperature within 2-3 km of driving in city traffic. The thermostat valve sees to it. I hope this part has not been removed.

You need to ask them to verify it by rechecking and providing you a bill/receipt with details including the part no. These documents and their stores records would be required as proof of installation to TKM possibly for reimbursement.

Thanks Vid6639 and R2D2. Nandi Toyota @ Whitefield has helped to some extent and now the RPM is stable at around 700. It does drop to 400-500 once per hour of driving in heavy traffic, but it's manageable and I've become used to it.

[Tulok]

In need of emergency help. My 2011 corolla altis has got into an unusual problem. I left the car idle yesterday and this evening when I tried to crank the engine, the steering was locked and I couldn’t unlock the steering and turn on the key since then. What might be the problem n any suggestions to solve the problem please ??


Regards.
Tulok

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by Tulok

In need of emergency help. My 2011 corolla altis has got into an unusual problem. I left the car idle yesterday and this evening when I tried to crank the engine, the steering was locked and I couldn’t unlock the steering and turn on the key since then. What might be the problem n any suggestions to solve the problem please ??


Regards.
Tulok

Try to wiggle the steering and turn the key and see if it unlocks the steering.

Second check the key? Is it worn out really bad and there is play when you insert the key.

Try these 2 and see if anyone is the cause.

[Tulok]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Try to wiggle the steering and turn the key and see if it unlocks the steering.

Second check the key? Is it worn out really bad and there is play when you insert the key.

Try these 2 and see if anyone is the cause.

Thank you so much sir for your response. I’ll do as you suggested first hour in the morning. And do you think that it’ll be ok if I spray some wd40 inside the keyhole and try ?

Regards
Tulok

[Tulok]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Try to wiggle the steering and turn the key and see if it unlocks the steering.

Second check the key? Is it worn out really bad and there is play when you insert the key.

Try these 2 and see if anyone is the cause.

I tried every possible way to unlock the steering but was not successful. So I called a local mechanic since Toyota’s authorised service is around 70+ Kms away from my town. He too tried to unlock it but the steering won’t unlock. So he took out the steering covers and took out the ignition switch and told me that the ignition switch is damaged and I had to directly start from a switch. What might be the problem? And how do I replace the ignition switch since everything is connected with sensors? Please guide.

Regards
Tulok

[classiccurves]

Hey @vid6639,
I own a Corolla Altis from 2009. And I have not been a fan of the HIDs. The look swell but the halogens have much better night visibility. I was thinking if this setup (HIDs) can be converted to a more hassle free Halogen setup. There are aftermarket brands like Depo that makes headlight assemblies with halogen for Corolla.
If I just install the halogen headlight assembly, would I be able to swap the D4R HID (and its harness) with a HB4 9006 halogen?

[mpshah68]

Guys I need your help and advice.
i own a toyota corolla altis 2019 model.

The car does not come with factory enabled speed sensitive central locking. The central locking has to be done manually each time.
At the time of the delivery i had had spoken to the sales executive at Lakozy motors who informed me that the dealer (Lakozy) can enable the same for a minor cost. (Rs. 2,000/- plus taxes).

Also it is almost a year now and I asked if the navigation needs to be updated. To which the dealer replied that for altis there are no updates and there never will be any. That is how the system is configured.

So my queries are:
1. Should i get the automatic central locking enabled from the dealer?. Or is there a DIY option?.
2. Is it true that the navigation system (especially maps) does not have any updates at all?.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by classiccurves

If I just install the halogen headlight assembly, would I be able to swap the D4R HID (and its harness) with a HB4 9006 halogen?

Your only issue is visibility at night/rain correct?

Rather than going through the whole hassle of what you’ve suggested, why not just keep things very simple? Just switch your HID bulbs to a lower temperature - 4300K (which is yellow, compared to your stock 6000K?)

Most halogen headlight assemblies use H4 bulbs which may be different from the stock HID + ballasts + reflector setup provided by Toyota.

Don’t throw the baby out with the bath water.

Originally Posted by mpshah68

So my queries are:
1. Should i get the automatic central locking enabled from the dealer?. Or is there a DIY option?.
2. Is it true that the navigation system (especially maps) does not have any updates at all?.

1. As far as I know, a module needs to be wired into the central locking system. Just for the ease of keeping warranty intact & a dealer fitted accessory, you might as well get it installed by them.
2. Does your car have maps provided by Garmin? If yes, this may be helpful - https://toyota.garmin.com/site/generalInstructions

I’d rather use maps from my phone via CarPlay rather than have to keep updating the SD card every year.

[classiccurves]

Thanks for the response ChoosetoCruze.
I apologise that I did not mention that my car was changed to an LED setup from the HIDs (that my driver did without my knowledge).
And since you have already mentioned that HIDs have altogether different setup (ballast and reflector), the light output from the 'Jugad' LED is just pathetic since it was not designed for my car's headlight. Yes, it was a 'Jugad' and the mechanic who did the setup just made the LED sit at HID retaining clip, and for the electricals, he just made a connection by twisting wires together (no proper connectors here!).
So, finally I made a decision to switch to the halogen setup. Bulbs are easily available. And changing them does not require much effort as opposed to changing the HIDs (at least in my car).
Once, I change the whole setup, I'll post it here.

Cheers