[blackasta]

Braking was spongy and weak at best for quite a while, and I was advised at the last service to get the brake pads changed.
Have been skipping the same for a while due to laziness, but changed the front brake pads and cleaned/adjusted the rear drums at Mukesh Hyundai workshop today.
Total cost was Rs 1515.
Also crossed 60K Kms this Friday.

[AnInternetUser]

Might get a used AT i10 with about 30k on the odo. How reliable was the car in general and do you recommend getting a used one? What should I look out for?

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by AnInternetUser

Might get a used AT i10 with about 30k on the odo. How reliable was the car in general and do you recommend getting a used one? What should I look out for?

The major warranty replacement was changing the failed SRSCM (airbag control module) in the third year of ownership. That part would have cost 25-30K and was taken care at zero cost by Hyundai (after some initial problems by the delaership) under extended warranty.
Other than that I have no major issues. Check the usual stuff, i.e service records, tires, brakes, power window switches, lights, music player/speakers etc.
Also, take the car on highway/open stretch and check whether upshifts / downshifts are smooth. If the shifts are jerky, chances are that the car may have been driven roughly.
Overall a 30k run i10 A/T should not have any problems and should be good buy for a sedate driver at a justifiable price - just plan your overtakes cautiously.

[blackasta]

Got another paid service done @ 69K kms on the odo from a smaller Hyundai ASS 'classic motors' near my home.

Oil, oil filter, air filter, 4 spark plugs, consumables and labor cost 2400 (300 less from 2700 as I denied to wait for the wash where there was a long queue, as they share the facility with a tow/breakdown/wash station).

With less than a month to go for the 7th year anniversary, the car has started to show some signs of old age - the light below the gearshift (which illuminated the PRND2L) has gone kaput, and the bonnet release lever has cracked so I tug the end of the wire to open the hood.

[blackasta]

7 years and 70000 kms completed today, the little car chugs on.
Now a days I see less and less of pre facelift i10s on road, guess time is doing it's work.
Also caught in a dilemma between whether to start looking for a new car as a replacement now (an get some resale), or keep this car till it starts falling apart (no resale expectations).

[blackasta]

75K kms up, and a major suspension overhaul was done today alongwith regular paid service.
The suspension had become very stiff with jerks on potholes+bumps, and rear was giving a huge squeak on full loads.
Rear shocks + struts changed, front linker assembly changed, tie rod ends changed, ball joints changed, plus regular paid service done.
Ride now has smoothed considerably as I could make out from the short drive from service center to home.

[blackasta]

Last night, while commuting from office to my home, I noticed a strange burning smell.
The blower was in recirculate mode, but still the smell was getting stronger.
Rolled down all the windows and open the sunroof, but the smell persisted although there was nothing burning outside (sometimes such smells come from truck tires).

I was getting worried, and almost 3/4 on the way, noticed that both my high and low beams are on, and pushing the headlight stalk does nothing.
Also, if I switch off all lights, still the highbeams would stay on with the indicator for the same dispalyed on the console.
The base of the headlight stalk was hot.

convinced that there is something wrong with the headlight stalk, I parked the car at home. The saving grace was that if you take the keys out from ignition, headlight/parking lights/foglights go off. Still I pulled out the 2 10A headlight fuses from the fusebox.

Searched tbhp and found out that the problem is similar to this:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...eam-stays.html

Took the car this morning to Hyundai ASS, and they changed the headlight stalk in 10 mins. Cost Rs 802 including labor. The old one had burnt circuitry and had a black spot on the white plastic cladding.

[ashwin49]

Super Thread..I have an i10 sportz Auto pre facelift and its now done similar KMS and is of similar age. The car does seem to get more noisier with ASS is saying he needs to change the compressor and quoting 18k, in a fix now.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by ashwin49

The car does seem to get more noisier with ASS is saying he needs to change the compressor and quoting 18k, in a fix now.

What sort of noise are you experiencing? Is the ASS suggesting AC compressor replacement?

[ashwin49]

Yes. There was some noise earlier it was the alternator which needed to be replaced. Now its the compressor, the noise seems to decrease / disappear with increase in speed beyond 40kmph. The ASS mentioned that this is common problem with that generation of i10 along with steering noises. Thankfully no steering noise till now but only the alleged compressor noise.

Considering the age, I guess it would be prudent to sell this off before it hits 7 years this september. I am getting a quote of 3L , not bad for a car which was bought for 5.5 L and after 7 years.

[blackasta]

Had to send the car to garage (Hyundai ASS Classic Motors) for a body work to take care of rust that has started showing up on top of body panels near the 4 wheels.

The front 2 fenders, and rear quarter panels, and parts of the running board shall be stripped off paint, scrubbed, filled (and welded if required), puttied and finally painted.

Rust is like cancer on a car's body, and I should have taken action earlier. Silver lining is that the garage guys say that there is no perforation, so welding (the last option) shall be minimal.

Expecting to be without the car for 5 days (Friday to Tuesday), and a bill of appx Rs 5000.

Through the years, there have been repairs and body works, small and big, god and not so good - done on the car. Guess that has something to do with the rust appearing on repainted panels. Also, the fat wheels sticking out and spraying muck n water does not help either.

Bad timing (monsoons arriving in Bengal!) to be without the car, but I have no one to blame but myself for this procrastination.

[blackasta]

Rust protection and paint work done, and they also patched + painted my rear bumper where there were crack marks when a overleaded TATA Ace had rear ended me.

Got a new problem on friday while parking the car in my office basement garage - the stop lamps simply would not go off ! The 2 rear stop lamps and the high mounted stop lamp - all 3 were on even if the car was switched off & locked.

Contacted a few fellow Kolkata Bhpians for emergency help ,and after a few whatsapp messages, zeroed down the problem to the brake light switch near the pedals.

The brake light switch is a switch that remains pressed down when the brake pedal is not touched, and when the brake pedal is depressed, the switch is free and the bake lights glow.
There is a small rubber / plastic tab on the metal pedal extension that touches the switch and keeps it in off (depressed) position.
That plastic thing has cracked and a piece was there on the footmat.

For the time being while the car was parked, I took out the wire coupler immediately above the switch. That turned the lights off.

While starting from office, put the coupler on, and it was brake lights all the way home !!

Again undid the coupler for the night.

This morning, I superglued a small piece of wood of similar dimensions to the rubber pad onto the metal pedal, and now the brake light is behaving as normal.

Have to get that rubber part from the authorized workshop or the dealer and get this stop gap arrangement fully remediated..

[blackasta]

81+ K on the odo, and after getting the paid service (oil/oil filter/spark plugs/air filter changed), noticing a strange vibration (mostly noticed during 20-40 km/h speed) & drumming noise from my left front wheel for the past couple of weeks.
Took the car to classic motors and after a mechanic rode shotgun with me for a couple of kms, diagnosed the problem as a worn out wheel bearing.
Have to get the same changed soon.
Tires are next and the current set would last at max for 7-8k more (first change was on September 2014 @ around 46k).
Maybe the battery too (first change was on August 2014).

Maintaining an old car sure has a slow bleeding effect on the pocket !

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Originally Posted by blackasta

81+ K on the odo, and after getting the paid service (oil/oil filter/spark plugs/air filter changed), noticing a strange vibration (mostly noticed during 20-40 km/h speed) & drumming noise from my left front wheel for the past couple of weeks.
Took the car to classic motors and after a mechanic rode shotgun with me for a couple of kms, diagnosed the problem as a worn out wheel bearing.
Have to get the same changed soon.
Tires are next and the current set would last at max for 7-8k more (first change was on September 2014 @ around 46k).
Maybe the battery too (first change was on August 2014).

Maintaining an old car sure has a slow bleeding effect on the pocket !

Damn! We bought the cars are around the same time. My car has just done 28,000kms and is running splendidly after so many years! Never expected a hyundai to last so much.

Only thing done is brake pads replaced twice over the years, battery a year ago and tyre change once recently (after the initial upsize on buying).

The only sore point is still poor efficiency (7~) and cracking sunroof glass rubber beading which is not available. So taped the roof to prevent leakage

[blackasta]

Got the front wheel bearings changed last week. The drumming noise has subsided, but end-of-life tires do not help to completely cut out the noise.
Also, the AC system was on the verge of being non functional (choked airflow and low to no cooling), so got a complete AC system overhaul done. AC is now performing as good as day 1.
Cost me 8000 for the above two jobs.

But the newest problem on the block has arrived in form of a malfunctioning clock spring (diagnosed by the HASC - parts ordered) which sometimes completely cuts out the horn, sometimes flashes the 'check airbag' light (which appears and disappears on it's own), and almost always on lock-to-lock turns makes a 'kit-kit-kit' noise from the steering!