[Chitta Pradhan]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

I would recommend it highly. Highway mileage has increased by almost 1.5 kmpl. This inspite of ripping the engine @ 3500 RPM in each gear. This is in P2 mode.

I would say go ahead and put in the RD box now itself. Go for the dual channel one. Before going to service just un-plug it. It hardly takes 5 mins for hyundai diesel cars.

Hi!
Got a quote of 20k for my 1.6 CRDI. Since RD have no dealership in my State (Odisha), they have advised me to deposit the money in their Bank account. They have also advised that I have to get the box installed myself. In case of change of car, I have to send the box back to them for change of software & change of wiring harness. The tuning box they have suggested is " DieselTRONIC" with wired remote & 4 modes called P2, P1, E & S. Also they have sent me a brochure of the product.

What say? Should I take a plunge? I can have the box through courier only without seeing it before making payment. The dual channel box you are referring to is " DieselTRONIC " or not. Where is the remote kept. For different modes (P2, P1, E , C), is there any need to open the bonnet or the remote is accessible from inside the car.

Thanks

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Chitta Pradhan

Hi!
Got a quote of 20k for my 1.6 CRDI. Since RD have no dealership in my State (Odisha), they have advised me to deposit the money in their Bank account. They have also advised that I have to get the box installed myself. In case of change of car, I have to send the box back to them for change of software & change of wiring harness. The tuning box they have suggested is " DieselTRONIC" with wired remote & 4 modes called P2, P1, E & S. Also they have sent me a brochure of the product.

What say? Should I take a plunge? I can have the box through courier only without seeing it before making payment. The dual channel box you are referring to is " DieselTRONIC " or not. Where is the remote kept. For different modes (P2, P1, E , C), is there any need to open the bonnet or the remote is accessible from inside the car.

Thanks

That price is for single channel box . Go for dual channel which costs 26k. Yes the box has 4 modes as you mentioned and the remote can be used from inside the car to change the modes. Go for it. Like I said before your car Will turn into a beast in p2 mode.

Installation should not be a problem. Ask them. But I would suggest you drive down to the nearest dealer of RD and get it installed. Because in case of dual channel box you have two connectors . One connector Will go to the rail and other to the air flow controller. This connector to the air flow controller is bit tricky to access. That's why.

[sagarpadaki]

Its been one week since the tyres were changed over to C Drives and approx 250 kms was driven over the past week. So the initial running in or rather scrubbing in of the tyres was half way through. Took the car for a spin on the NICE road and here are the observations.

Grip! It makes me go when i brake. The brakes have become sharper and there are oodles of grip in the tyres. The braking distance has reduced considerably . I had to drop anchors @ 70 kmph when i noticed a speed hump very late.The distance to the speed hump must be approx 30-40 feet at max. And the car slowed down to 20 kmph with ABS kicking in! The older Acellere's did not bleed the speed so well. At highway speeds, the brakes are very sharp, something that i need to get used to! And one more thing that i observed is that the tyres don't get heated up much even after a spirited drive. Although i used N2 in the Apollos , they used to become much warmer than the C Drives!

Silence! These tyres are mighty silent.As if you are sitting inside a library . At 100 kmph, there is hardly any road noise filtering into the cabin.Also these tyres mask the speed. With the apollo's i used to feel that i am at high speed even at 100. But with C Drives, 100 seems like 60 or 70. Maybe, its the low tyre noise that masks the speed!

Cornering grip has increased by leaps and bounds, The tyres hold the line very well during cornering. They started screeching @ 70 kmph on a steep left hand circle on the NICE road entrance on mysore road towards Tumkur road.

Only thing worries me is the weak side-wall! Hope i can use all the 5 tyres for atleast 50,000 kms without any problems! Have not been able to test the wet grip yet. But with monsoons in, it can also be tested soon!

All in all, i can say that the C Drives are much much better than the Apollo acelere in all aspects

[kpzen]

^^ Nice to have a good review on C drive.
How is the steering feedback after C drives ?

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by kpzen

^^ Nice to have a good review on C drive.
How is the steering feedback after C drives ?

This is one area where i have a -ve feedback. The steering has become uncomfortably light. There is a dead feel about a couple of mm on the either side when the steering is straight. Dunno if there is some issue with the car or is it the characteristic of the tyre?

[kpzen]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

This is one area where i have a -ve feedback. The steering has become uncomfortably light. There is a dead feel about a couple of mm on the either side when the steering is straight. Dunno if there is some issue with the car or is it the characteristic of the tyre?

It is the TIRE !!

Been there, Done that !

Drive safe.

[infotech58]

Does RD box has any positive/negative impact on engine noise and vibrations? And do you have plans for suspension upgrade too?

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Yes the RD box will help reduce turbo lag, in the sense, it will put the engine into the turbo zone faster than the stock.So you can enjoy the immense pleasure of having your engine in the peak turbo zone. I would recommend it highly. Highway mileage has increased by almost 1.5 kmpl. This inspite of ripping the engine @ 3500 RPM in each gear. This is in P2 mode.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by infotech58

Does RD box has any positive/negative impact on engine noise and vibrations? And do you have plans for suspension upgrade too?

No noticeable effect on engine noise. As is I20's diesel engine is very refined . So I didn't have any problems with engine noise earlier too.

Yes suspension upgrade Will be done once the stock dampers reach their end of life. I think at around 60 or 70 thousand kms depending on when they lose their damping effect. Will go for dampers that give a right balance between ride comfort and handling.

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Its been 34 months since we bought our beloved i20!
============
Overall , a happy customer of the RD box. The guys at the RD are real professionals and know exactly what they are doing! And ours was the FIRST i20 to be Dual-channelised from RD!

I have placed an order for the DC box for my 6 speed CRDi. Hoping to get it in two days. I read from your post that this box has 2 connectors. Where is the air flow controller connector located on the 1.4 CRDi? Also you have mentioned that there is not much marked increase in power in P2 mode. Is this in comparison with P1 mode or stock?

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by alphahere

I have placed an order for the DC box for my 6 speed CRDi. Hoping to get it in two days. I read from your post that this box has 2 connectors. Where is the air flow controller connector located on the 1.4 CRDi? Also you have mentioned that there is not much marked increase in power in P2 mode. Is this in comparison with P1 mode or stock?

There is definite improvement in P2 over stock. But the delta increase from P1 to P2 is not as expected.

The air flow sensor is located on the left hand side of the intercooler(when you are facing the engine compartment),ie,just left to the pipe which goes from the IC to the intake manifold. Let me know if you cant find it. I will post a pic of it.

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

There is definite improvement in P2 over stock. But the delta increase from P1 to P2 is not as expected.

The air flow sensor is located on the left hand side of the intercooler(when you are facing the engine compartment),ie,just left to the pipe which goes from the IC to the intake manifold. Let me know if you cant find it. I will post a pic of it.

Followed your direction and poking around under the hood I came across two connectors below the pipe from the IC to the intake.The wires from both these merge into the same sleeve. Am not too sure which is the right one or are both really connectors. It would be great if you could post a quick snap of the correct connector on your car. It would also give me an idea on how to route the cable.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by alphahere

Followed your direction and poking around under the hood I came across two connectors below the pipe from the IC to the intake.The wires from both these merge into the same sleeve. Am not too sure which is the right one or are both really connectors. It would be great if you could post a quick snap of the correct connector on your car. It would also give me an idea on how to route the cable.

Check the attached pic. You can keep the air intake and radiator cap as reference to identify the connector.



Note that removing the connector and on inserting new one can be difficult for the lack of space .

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Note that removing the connector and on inserting new one can be difficult for the lack of space .

Thanks for sharing the pic! I got the box installed at Ignite Garage Chennai and as I had suspected no one had any idea where to plug in the second connector. It took some time to locate the connector as the I Gen models seem to have a redesigned air box intake which completely hides the connector. Your picture and comment really saved my day. I had to compare your picture and my engine layout and guessed that the air box intake pipe was covering it. Tried peeping through a small gap and sure enough there it was! Now the disappointing part. After connecting the box the engine was not running properly. It would start and idle rough for about 5 secs and then die out. Also no response to throttle and the Check Engine light came on. Checked for any loose connectors but there was none. In the end decided that the box was faulty and would get another one sent over next week. Got the error codes cleared and put everything back the way it was. But now thinking more about the redesigned air intake, I get the feeling that there could be more redesigns on the engine like the fuel system which is making it incompatible with the RD DC box. I noticed that the injectors and fuel rail have Delphi written on them. Is yours the same or is it Bosch? Anyway keeping my fingers crossed waiting for the new box but the more I think about it the more my hopes of getting it to work are fading!

[sudeep.pandya]

The i-gen 1.4 CRDI in i20 gets the Delphi injectors. No idea about older versions. However, in Verna it is the Bosch one.
The Bosch injectors are better as per my mechanic because it takes care of that dead torque which shows its ugly head @ 1000 rpm during steep inclines.

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya

The i-gen 1.4 CRDI in i20 gets the Delphi injectors. No idea about older versions. However, in Verna it is the Bosch one.
The Bosch injectors are better as per my mechanic because it takes care of that dead torque which shows its ugly head @ 1000 rpm during steep inclines.

+1 to that. I owned a vista quadrajet prior to i20 which had Bosch fuel system and the torque at idle was just awesome. Whereas the i20 feels more petrol like with lesser torque available at near idle rpms. This difference made me think of the tuning box but I guess the boxes are tuned for Bosch only. Which could also be the reason why they are available for Fluidic Verna.