[Guderian]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

1. Or maybe you have embarked on a serious weight training routine?


2. Also, after a long high speed run, if you idle the vehicle for a few minutes, the vehicle feels smoother when it starts moving again. Have you noticed this?

Hi Nils,
1. Ha ha !
2. Haven't particularly noticed this fact. But it is possible as when you idle after a long run it could be that the oils etc spread across the moving parts well, oils cool a little, relatively, thereby increasing the viscosity and so imparting a smooth feel etc.

[nilanjanray]

Thinking of putting one more sticker (LDT) at the back. However, don't want it to look too loud (yellow on black combo). Which option looks better?

Note: these are quick and dirty simulations using copy-paste of LDT sticker on a photo.

[Guderian]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

Thinking of putting one more sticker (LDT) at the back. However, don't want it to look too loud (yellow on black combo). Which option looks better?

Hi Nils,
Of course on the bumper !
For one very important reason. The reason being - if you measure the angle and the curve of the TFort's rear bumper and the dimensions of the TBHP sticker there is a mathematical correlation coefficient. If you analyse the data and...oh forget it.
Simple reason is that that's where the two rear stickers are on Admiral and they look nice n neat as per me !

[Fauji]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

Thinking of putting one more sticker (LDT) at the back. However, don't want it to look too loud (yellow on black combo). Which option looks better?

Note: these are quick and dirty simulations using copy-paste of LDT sticker on a photo.

The LTD on the door looks good and has better visibility than bumper. However, BHP sticker under that does not gel. If you are using both stickers, then bumper is the best option.

[Monaro CV8]

IMO do u really need two stickers?
If u do, then my choice will be the spot on the left side to the Toyota Logo on the rear hatch.
You also have another option of the transparent 'team-bhp' url decal which you can paste on the rear windshield at the bottom.

[nilanjanray]

Thanks for the responses, folks. So it seems it will have be on the bumper, given that one more sticker is already there. Will see how it looks on the actual vehicle, and then take a call. Still not sure whether to put the second one.

@ Monaro CV8: for a single sticker, that is a good position. But will look a bit odd with a sticker already there on the bumper. You raise a valid point - do I need the second one? At what stage does it become overbranding, for a daily use vehicle? I have quite a few on my SX4, but don't want to put so many on the Fortuner.

[dkaile]

Sorry for my late entrant into such a wonderful thread. I believe only 1 sticker really looks cool at the back, but if another one does need to come in at the back, then it should be on the bumper. Otherwise the side position should be better.

I really need to put one of these on my Falcon, but I'm waiting for my 1st service and then the first Formula 1 polish session to complete, to give it the sticker it deserves...

Congratulations once again on a wonderful beast err... The 'BISON'

[nilanjanray]

Thank you dkaile.

I came across an interesting offroading comparison between a Freelander 2 with a Diesel GV. It was illuminating, becausw the Fortuner uses a similar 4WD system as the Vitara's. Well, the verdict: Freelander 2 is possibly the most offroad capable softroader (if such a phrase exists), but all the best traction control, hill descent control, humongous torque etc. still can't compare with a proper low range transfer case. This is the opinion of a few renowned 4wd experts in Aussieland (Overland magazine or Landrover magazine, don't remember). The difference was most stark while climbing a steep hill and while going down a steep hill. The Freelander 2 climbed much faster and came down much faster (any slower speed, the clutch was getting used heavily, and the engine was stalling without clutch usage).

[nilanjanray]

I was typing the above post from my mobile, so couldn't share the link. See the linked PDF for the comparison between Freelander 2 and a Torsen LSD/low range equipped vehicles such as the Vitara and Fortuner. Interesting reading.

http://www.4wdhandbook.com/rcustom/a...E-Lowrange.pdf

Mods, if possible, can you combine this post with the one above?

[nilanjanray]

I was trying to calculate the Fortuner crawl ratio...these are figures I have got from the net e.g. for the South African Fortuner Manual 3.0 D4D. Does someone know whether these hold true for the Indian Fortuner? The Indian website has no mention of different gear ratios - why are we always treated in India like we don't need to know detailed specs for our vehicle?

Crawl ratio: 1st gear ratio X transfer case ratio X axle/differential ratio
= 4.313 X 2.566 X 3.583 = 39.65

If these numbers are true, then the Fortuner delivers a peak torque of 343 X 2.566 = 880NM in low range. Wow!!

Also, for those interested in the Fortuner AT version: FYI, the manual version is more efficient in terms of offroading compared to the AT. The 1st gear ratio of the AT version is 2.804. So TC ratio and diff ration remaining same, the crawl ratio for the AT version comes to 25.78.

Note: am talking about 265/65/R17 tyres, so no change in ratios due to different tyre size.

[Monaro CV8]

So that explains why the T-Fort climbs a steep incline in the "look ma, no feet on the accelerator pedal!" mode
This was one major trick that impressed me the most while actually ascending a 45degree incline.

And the same trick worked downhill too. Just different mechanics at work (not the high torque but the effective gearing).

The fear of stalling the car lurks, in both the incline and the decline, but the car pulls through, without breaking a sweat.
Unlike the FL2 you mentioned.

Thanks for the information mate.
Cheers.

[nilanjanray]

Yes, the 880 NM max low range torque surprised me - I was earlier thinking that the T-Fort would probably have a transfer case ratio of ~ 2. Note that this torque figure is not at the wheels, as SS-Traveller pointed out in another post - the way I wrote it could be confusing.

The torque at each wheel would be: (343*39.65)/4 = 3400NM

[nilanjanray]

I had the same starting problem twice in two consecutive days - the problem that I had a couple of months back.

Engine doesn't crank when I turn the key. Battery seems fine. Then after fiddling with the remote close/open switch on the key, the problem goes away - but I don't hear the usual soft whine (oil circulation) that comes when I turn the key a quarter - the whine that comes before engine cranks.

Thing is, I don't know whether it is an immobilizer issue (e.g. key in a tight pocket, so some combo of keys getting pressed inadvertently), a capacitor issue or batter connection issue. If the problem doesn't happen while doing a laptop check, the problem doesn't get discovered. I can't replicate the starting problem if I try.

Am thinking of taking the vehicle for a checkup.

Any suggestions?

[Monaro CV8]

Have you tried using the 2nd spare key ?
I reckon, the issue can also be with the batteries/contacts/etc. of your daily use key.

Try using the other set of original (spare) key for a while.

Let us know how it fares.

[Guderian]

Originally Posted by Monaro CV8

Have you tried using the 2nd spare key ?
I reckon, the issue can also be with the batteries/contacts/etc. of your daily use key.

Try using the other set of original (spare) key for a while.

Let us know how it fares.

Dash ! Was going to suggest that as soon as I read Nils post and Monaro beat me to it !

Or worse use the third key without the remote immobiliser for a day in a secure place - manually locking Bison (not sure what would be the status of the immobliser. However to my mind it appears that with the 3rd key you only physically lock the doors and the immobiliser is not activated).

Do let us know !