[mithun]

Originally Posted by ported_head

The trouble is when you try to match the finish. This Com Paint products seem satisfactory in theory, but it's been one month and the contact shop here hasn't been able to source it yet.

Have you used COM-PAINT touchup spray ?

If then, please post your comments.

[kuttapan]

Can I use a tpuch up can to spray Heat resistant paint onto my silencer end can? Finish is not an issue here - Will it have any side effects?

[sidkun]

I was thinking, if, instead of directly spraying the paint onto the affected area (and thereby causing uneven finish) what if one just sprays a large amount of paint into a small container, and then uses a paintbrush to fill in the scrathes? That way, you could just fill in the exact scratch area required and the paint would match. Probably would mean wasting extra paint, but then at least you're not painting all over on unwanted parts. Has anyone tried this?

[mithun]

Originally Posted by sidkun

I was thinking, if, instead of directly spraying the paint onto the affected area (and thereby causing uneven finish) what if one just sprays a large amount of paint into a small container, and then uses a paintbrush to fill in the scrathes? That way, you could just fill in the exact scratch area required and the paint would match. Probably would mean wasting extra paint, but then at least you're not painting all over on unwanted parts. Has anyone tried this?

Touching up using a paintbrush will make the work worst.

[sidkun]

Originally Posted by sidkun

I was thinking, if, instead of directly spraying the paint onto the affected area (and thereby causing uneven finish) what if one just sprays a large amount of paint into a small container, and then uses a paintbrush to fill in the scrathes? That way, you could just fill in the exact scratch area required and the paint would match. Probably would mean wasting extra paint, but then at least you're not painting all over on unwanted parts. Has anyone tried this?

Why do you think that might be? I would have thought that since you're just filling up an very thin,exact area, it would probably be less visible that spraying a general area as would happen with a spray can.

[anonymous]

Com-Paint Video Demo gives a clear idea how to use this

[swageo]

Originally Posted by mithun

Touching up using a paintbrush will make the work worst.

Take a paper, make a hole that is just enough to expose the scratch, and paste it over the scratch. Then you can spay over it to get a coverage you wish.

I got a scratch on my white civic, and planning to do this

[Technocrat]

Tanveer do let us know if you find some solution, I have exact same problem on My Pulsar, some one had inscribed some silly stuff on the tank. I am not much willing to get the whole tank repainted(which costs 1.5k with new decals) as it will mean losing the original decals which I dont want.

[tsk1979]

I had to get the entire bumper repainted. No easy fix when people scratch with blade etc.,
Touch up tube will at best cover up just some minor scratches, if you have extensive scratches, then there will be color match problem.

[Technocrat]

I had to get the entire bumper repainted.

I thought you had scratches on the bonnet ?

My scratches are deep too :(

[swageo]

mine is mostly on bumper. Did any team-BHPians tried Comp-paint ?.

[dadu]

Touch up paint has to be used properly if you want the best results although noone can guarantee shade match but COM-Paint do a factory colour matching and thats why it comes with the manufacturer and colour combination aerosol.

Apart from what they have shown in the demo video at com-paint website which you can view for your learning, The steps are:

Things you might need:

- Matching paint (try com-paint)
- Clear coat (try com-paint)
- Thinner
- Sand paper
- Primer
- Putty

Everything is available with your local paint shop, who deals in automobile paint accessories.

Using Aerosol Can

1) Clean the area (soap and water).

2) Sand the area lightly with wet and dry sandpaper. Use 1000-1500 sand paper. Dont worry the extra marks will go away while rubbing later.

3) Spray even wet coats of basecoat. You can sand the paint between coats, but don't sand the final coat. Two wet coats should be sufficient. Allow each coat to dry 20 minutes before recoating.

4) Make sure the basecoat has dried thoroughly and then spray the clearcoat. Spray the clearcoat beyond the basecoat to a good stopping point such as the edge of the panel. Two wet coats should be sufficient.

5) Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days. Use Rubbing Compound (apply with clean soft cotton only, dirty fabrics will scratch your paint surface) to smooth and shine the area.

If you can see the metal body than a coat of primer is needed before basecoat.

For Metallic paints, Do NOT skip the topcoat/clearcoat layer, otherwise the paint will not shine and will NOT merge with the original.

For Deep Key scratch touchup's

1) Take pencils with eraser on top. few hours before, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.

2) Clean the area (soap and water).

3) Use a wooden toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the scratch are secure and not waiting to fall off. Take a new pencil/sandpaper tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the scratched area.

4) *SLIGHTLY* rough up the scratch and a small portion of the surounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the edges of the scratch and not dig scratches.

5) Once finished, Make sure that the scratch and surrounding area is clean. If not, clean with thinner and let dry.

6) If you can see the metal, put a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. Place the tip of the toothpick against the the scratch and apply a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the scratch.Priming is completed when no metal is visible. This is important! allow to dry for two hours or until dry.

7) Take a new pencil sander and dip into water and add a few drops of water to the repair area and gently sand the area to rough up the scratch and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Clean the area with thinner and allow to dry.

8) Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick, apply to the scratch. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly outside. Allow the paint to dry for at least 2-3 days.

9) The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 2-3 days, and resembles a minute mound ( __o__ ) (this is exaggerated) on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. Use rubbing compound to buff it up in straight horizontal motion.

Tips:

- For metallic paints, you should use the clear as a topcoat. The colour coat of paint will many times be relatively dull in appearance. These paints rely on the clear coat to provide the "shine."

- Com-merge is not the topcoat/clearcoat, its just used to merge the surrounding paint with your touchup job.

- Use proper numbered sandpaper 300/600/1000/1500, the higher they go the finer they get, no. 2000 will not scratch your paint.

- If the paint has not gone well you can still wipe it off with the thinner for the next 30 days apprx without damaging the underlying original paint.

- For deep scratches use putty(mix with 1:1 thinner) or M-Seal epoxy putty after primer and then top it up with primer before painting. Both need to be sanded.

- Use wax only after 30 days of painting.

If you are wondering if this is actually doable, YES it is, but only for scratches/ small areas/ bumpers touchups. Just be patient and follow the steps.

[rjstyles69]

Is this all worth the hassle ? I would suggest that you go to the dealer itself or a professional painter.

In case of small and minor scratches get a coat of 3M done. Works well !!

[dadu]

Not worth it for bigger damages, but for smaller ones you dont want to get a complete bumper done or a complete side/ panel done, as thats what most dealers will suggest.

This is definitely not for the lazy ones, only meant for D.I.Y guys

Minute scratches without the metal showing can be buffed up with a rubbing compound no need for any other treatment.

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Is this all worth the hassle ? I would suggest that you go to the dealer itself or a professional painter.

In case of small and minor scratches get a coat of 3M done. Works well !!

[kkdelhi]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

I had to get the entire bumper repainted. No easy fix when people scratch with blade etc.,
Touch up tube will at best cover up just some minor scratches, if you have extensive scratches, then there will be color match problem.

Where did you get it done from? My Swift back bumper had two small tear-offs. I got the cuts welded but of course the welding color (black) shows badly on the otherwise silver bumper. I have been waiting to know where I could get the paint job done at these two points.

How much is it likely to cost?
How long will the entire process take?