[bhuvan_prasad]

It is not often in one’s life that one undertakes builds like this. It is not often that one goes against normal logic and does the extreme opposite of it. It is not often that one attempts to do something for the first time in a country. Finally, it is also not often that one finds threads documenting all this. So sit down, strap yourself and get ready for a long ride full off build details, part descriptions, pictures, machining work, dyno figures and the likes.

Sell the Civic:
Common logic dictated that when my R18 engine threw a rod after the 2nd turbo build, I should have called it a day. My civic was almost 10 years old, engine needing a full rebuild and frankly pouring more money into it sounded like the wrong thing to do. The right thing to do was to get it back to its normal stock NA state and sell it, since there was no way I was going to drive a stock civic around after having driven a turbo one for 3 years. The writing on the wall was clear. - Get it back to stock and sell it.

But, my brain started doing some math. The car once restored to its stock state would get 2.5 Lakhs at best, leaving me with 2 Lakhs plus additional cash to get a new, fun car(assuming around 50k was needed to get new rods, bearings and rebuild the engine). Nothing south of the 320d seemed appealing enough, and there was no way I was blowing up so much cash to get the beemer. So fixing up the civic suddenly seemed the “sensible” thing to do. But, can it be so simple. Not a chance in hell.

Fine. Dont sell, but what then? :
With two turbo builds on the R18, I had pretty much experienced what an R18 can give, without going forged. Given the restrictive head, single cam and other limitations of the R18, spending cash to build an R18 engine didn’t seem appealing. Since my initial days of having the Civic, I always fancied doing a K-swap. However, I kept those plans locked away knowing the complexities involved - Mounts, wiring etc. I’ve worked with Venkat once for a week in Feb 2016 when he setup Blackworks and had seen his ease and expertise with AutoCAD and OCD with wiring. I drummed up the courage and casually asked him one day:

“How about a K24 swap?”

He replied in the affirmative and the ball was set rolling.


I was moving to Gurgaon soon, and Venkat and I needed to finalize and procure the engine before that. Then I could leave Venkat to dismantle it and figure out what all parts were needed. We first found an Accord that was being dismantled, and were going to get that engine and gearbox, but for some reason could not close that deal. Finally we got word of crashed CR-V lying at a workshop. We went and had a look. It was a frontal impact and did not look great in pics, however on closer inspection other than the intake manifold and gearbox shifter mechanism, everything else was fine. We used the damage as a bargaining chip and over 2 days extracted the engine, gearbox, shifter cables and mechanism, driveshafts, half shaft, mounts and full wiring(we were going to use a standalone and do the wiring ground up, but picked up the harness just in case). We left the ECU and AC compressor as I was going to use a standalone Haltech and re-use my R18 compressor. Loaded everything onto a Tata ace, and got it to Venkat’s workshop. I left soon after for Gurgaon by mid Feb 2016.

Car had been lying there for years.


Plugs looked good



The Honda K24A1 :
While I was not in Bangalore physically, I was constantly researching about the build, components that should go in and on the phone with Venkat discussing the whole thing. The K24A1 found in the CR-V makes torque at a lower RPM than the accord and also has a head which flows better. Further, one hoped that the weak 2nd gear accord issue, may not occur here as this was a 4WD MT gearbox, and Honda just maybe made the gears a bit stronger. We were to reuse my old Evo 16g6 turbo. It is a tad small, but this car was going to be a street car, and do the daily home-office commute, so boost at 2000 RPM was needed. I didn’t want an all out monster that would wake up at 4500 RPM and eat up my tyres, clutch and driveshafts. It also would keep costs down as the turbo, intercooler and BOV could just be reused. We wanted to keep the internals stock for simplicity, reducing piston slap and keeping the cost under control. Also, around 10psi of boost is not a big deal for these K24 engines and hence we went ahead with this plan.

The day we got everything to the workshop. The Civic looks excited to see the new engine


Getting Started:
Getting the K24A1+ gearbox into the engine bay and designing the mounts was the first thing to do. Simultaneously, the head was removed and a list of all parts to be procured was made by Venkat. Wiring and mounts would need major work. I did speak to few people in Australia(BYP Racing) who have done this swap, and they gave me a huge list of mounts and parts to be bought, and it was getting very expensive and sounding ominous. He kept insisting we needed a different gearbox, oil pan etc in addition to mounts, wiring loom, ECU and it sounded more like he was trying to dump on me a whole bunch of parts. Spoke to Venkat who assured me that we should be able to do everything here itself, so I did not pursue that lead further. This was a big risk we took, and could’ve led to us getting stuck and needing to order some major parts from abroad if needed. But, it was a risk we were prepared to take, and Venkat was confident of seeing the car through.The rear subframe also is different in civics which have a K engine, and we decided to design everything in-house and not go buy some package which invariably will have something missing.

Mounts:
The civic has only 3 mounts, 2 on each side and one at the back. The K24 has 4 mount locations, 2 on the side, one at the back and one at the front. A base plate for the front mount had to be made and welded onto the front chassis member.



The driver side mount bracket was a direct fit and did not need much tweaking. The passenger side mount bracket was fashioned out of a billet block of aluminium, laser cut, trimmed and then put in place.


The rear mount bracket was also fabricated from a billet block of aluminium in a similar way and installed in place.



All the rubber mounts were filled with window sealant to make them last long and reduce flex. The engine was sitting just perfectly after this whole exercise, ready to be rebuilt and receive the other components.


Sourcing Parts:
Getting parts happened throughout the build, but the bulk of it was in the beginning. Since stock K24 blocks are good for 10psi of boost, the idea was to rebuild the whole engine with OEM Honda parts. Instead of dealing with Honda in India, since time wasn’t a big concern, I had friends of mine carry down the parts from the U.S. All the OEM honda part were ordered from hondapartsnow.com

The parts included:
First Over size pistons and rings set


New crank and main bearings set, Thrust washer, piston pin clips




All new gaskets


Oil jets and bolts. The bolts have an inbuilt mechanism to allow oil to flow after a certain oil pressure.



ARP head studs



Gearbox level selection arm, cover, shifter (this was damaged due to the frontal impact)


These parts would ensure the engine and gearbox would be as good as new and good to go into the engine bay, and ready to accept boost from the turbo. The K24A1 has provisions for oil jets, but its not put to use. All we needed to do is order the oil jets and bolts, drill the block in the designated area properly and screw these oil jets in. Running oil jets is always advisable, especially given that we were going to be running boost. The S2000 oil cooler, is a coolant based oil cooler that fits onto the oil filter housing. Good to ensure your oil does not heat up too much, and simple enough to install. Given the cramped civic engine bay, various turbo fittings and bigger engine, having a air-oil heat exchanger was just not possible. The fact that AC, PS and all were going to be present on the car, made it even more of a no-no. Most of these parts were ordered in April/May 2016 and we had all of them in hand by June/July 2016. Venkat designed a cylinder brace on Autodesk and laser cut that onto a block of aluminum. This was installed in the block, so at high RPM’s, or when boost hits suddenly there is zero flex of the cylinder walls, increasing the longevity of the whole setup.


The stock K24A1 makes 160bhp@6000RPM and 220NM@3600RPM. We did not plan to rev the engine more than 7000 RPM(stock rev limit is 6500 RPM), for various issues, one being the piston speed at 7000 RPM itself is very high given the long stroke of this 2.4 unit. Plus the turbo would be choked by then anyway, since it is a tad undersized for this big an engine. The VTEC on this is nothing to write home about, frankly none of the Honda’s in India have VTEC in its true sense. On the K24A1, VTEC is only on the intake side, and opens only 1 intake valve(the other opens only partially to prevent fuel build up) is opened pre-vtec at idle and low RPM’s, to produce a swirl effect which improves low end torque, and also for better fuel efficiency. Once VTEC kick in, both intake valves open fully at higher revs, to produce max power. There is no possibility of variable timing and any adjustment of the exhaust valves with these cams. Since it was a turbo build, we did not bother with trying to source cams which will help us with better control, as the turbo will push in enough air. Since the gearbox was a 4 wheel drive gearbox, the FD for the 4WD had to be removed, and blanked out.


The Turbo:
Re-using the Evo turbo and intercooler was part of the plan as that would save a lot of money, which could be spent on getting the engine swap done properly. The turbo a TD-05HR-16g6 is present on the Evo between generations 4 to 6. The turbo has a max capacity of around 370bhp if run at the 22 psi Evo’s run at. Since we would be at 10psi, we knew that we would not cross 300bhp, and I was fine with that. Given the twin scroll nature, good torque of the 2.4 litre engine, I was looking more at a nice, linearly increasing pull from 2000 right upto 7000 RPM.

I needed a new turbine side(as the turbo had a welded waste-gate flap from my previous setup) so I ordered that. On opening the turbo, the turbine blades were worn out, so I ordered a new CHRA also. Both these were ordered from MAMBATEK, and they shipped it directly, and I had to pay the duty on delivery. I have a spare turbo rebuild kit for this turbo, and will use that as and when the need arises. A new 0.6 bar internal waste-gate also was ordered from MAMBATEK.

New CHRA, came with a SCHENCK balancing report


New Hot side:


The header:
Venkat did some research and wanted to use SS 321 grade steel for the header. I also did some research and it sounded good, and we found a person in Mumbai who can supply us with straight pipes, and 90 degree bends. Since the turbo is a twin scroll unit, the exhaust gas outputs from cylinders 1 and 4 need to be combined in one pipe and outputs from cylinders 2 and 3 need to be combined in another pipe, feeding the turbo. Given the space constraints(the K24 block is tall, and the civic engine bay is cramped, plus the header will be facing the firewall), Venkat somehow managed to design equal length twin scroll headers. This was test fit to see that it would clear everything before being welded in place. A similar header made by tuning houses abroad would cost anywhere upwards of 500 USD.


Final welded header:



Downpipe and Charge pipes:
We used 2 inch sections of the SS 321 pipes as charge pipes. SS 321 are poor heat conductors, plus their durability is an added bonus. The charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler was routed under the engine, between the oil pan and gearbox.


The charge pipe from the intercooler to throttle body was simple, as the intake manifold is front facing. As the final bend was quite a bit, the rubber bend would not have lasted, so I ordered a custom HPS High Temp 2" > 2.75" ID 4-ply Reinforced Silicone 90 Degree Elbow from the U.S, which was installed later once a friend carried it down.
The silicone elbow:



Wiring & ECU:
The plan was to use the civic ECU to run the dashboard, fuel pump and other auxiliary functions, while a standalone ECU will control the engine, Fans, and AC. A friend of mine was selling his Haltech sport 1000 and upgrading to an Elite series ECU, so I picked up the ECU from him.

Venkat neatly wired in the Haltech to co-exist and communicate with the stock ECU. I make it sound easy but this involved tons of research done before with regards to pin outs, signal multipliers etc. to ensure the ECU’s co-exist and can communicate properly and a lot of tags.

Wiring Stages:


Final Harness:


We also converted the partial drive by wire setup, to a full cable throttle setup, so wired in an IACV also, which I got from the U.S.



A 4Bar Hondata MAP sensor was installed in the place of the stock sensor as the stock sensor does not read above 10psi, and we didn’t want to be in a situation where the boost has spiked, and my sensor is relaying 10psi to the ECU, which will cause other issues.

All the sensors like the IAT, Coolant Temp Sensors, MAP, Oil pressure sensor etc, had to be configured in the Haltech, i.e the value to be given for corresponding sensor voltages.

Getting the pieces together:
Venkat has good experience in rebuilding engines and does everything by the book/workshop manual. He is very anal in such matters, to a point that it is almost irritating. Thankfully I wasn’t around for the parts when he was assembling the engine, I can only imagine the stuff he would have put Chandru(his helper/man-friday) through.

Photos of all the parts before coming together:
The head and valvetrain, can see the two lobed intake cam:


All engine components:



Since the mounts, header etc were designed and test fitted before itself, getting the rebuilt engine in wasn’t much of a task. We replaced the clutch with a stock replacement OEM clutch, which in hindsight was a foolish thing to do, but then we wanted to see how much power it would hold, before slipping. Few guys abroad managed to go upto 300bhp, on K’s on a stock clutch, so this was the logic behind this. Getting a performance clutch set from abroad would mean expense of 1000USD so we kept that for later, if only it was really needed.

I was running my stock, factory dampers till now. I thought it will be a good decision to replace them now and ordered TRW dampers from spareshub. New discs were ordered front and back, I had newish pads, so did not order this.
New discs and dampers installed


With all this installed, it was time to fit everything and get the engine started. By Dec 2016 the engine was up and running in the car.


The PS pump that came with the engine was shot, and it basically prevented the car from being taken out on the road. The engine otherwise was running fine. Managed to get a refurbished one from ebay, which a friend carried down, and by December 2016 end the car was finally moving!!

The car tanking up after almost a year and a half!!


To be continued.

[Nikhilb2008]

Finally the thread is up! A Car that I thoroughly enjoyed driving and helping Venkat tune. Not to mention doing my darndest best to break!

[james]

Glad to see this thread finally online. Explained well with the right amount of details. The thread makes it seem like this was a cake walk but it was far from it. The time and effort put in by all of you'll, ESPECIALLY Venkat is truly commendable! Thats how a tuner should be- Keeps his mouth shut and lets his work do all the talking!!

Cheers!

[kutlee]

Long build. From the very brief test drive, could feel the sorted build that was under the shell. The torque of the 2.4 with the turbo, I can only imagine what a bigger turbo can do. When it comes to clearances and tolerances he is pretty specific. I lost count the number of times the crank (in my build) was examined and finally decision was taken to touch the crank and after which the number of times the clearances were checked. There is only one way to build. the right way.

[Senna4Ever]

Impressive, unique build.

Now that you have some BIC experience, I'm pretty sure a good, clean lap will put much more expensive machinery to shame.

[scorpian]

Great build.Good work done by venkat.
How a finished harness looks is a answer itself to the quality of the work, the exhaust headers look a piece of art.

Cheers to you and venkat for a great build.

[Nikhilb2008]

Originally Posted by Senna4Ever

Impressive, unique build.

Now that you have some BIC experience, I'm pretty sure a good, clean lap will put much more expensive machinery to shame.

But talent is required for that. A Fast car and a slow driver will still be slow!

[bhuvan_prasad]

As I ran into the limit of 30 pics per post with the previous post, am adding a few more pics in this post, before I continue with the build log.

Steel braided lines were used for all the oil and coolant lines running in and out of the turbo, and in and out of the oil cooler as well. I got a second hand coolant based S2000 oil cooler, which is fit in front of the oil filter in the picture.



A pic of the SS 321 90 degree bend pipe. This was used in the header and charge pipes.


Driver side mount and bracket needed the least bit of modification.


AC compressor of the civic was adapted to fit perfectly with the K24 engine and accessory belt. AC compressor is at the bottom.


Header being machined flat, before final install with the new gaskets.


Engine sitting perfectly in the bay once all the mounts and bracket fabrication was complete.


Passenger side mount bracket after some machining to remove excess metal.


New Front disc. Replaced the ones at the rear as well.


New gaskets for the turbo. I ordered a turbo rebuild kit initially, which is at the left in the pic, but later just got a new CHRA as the turbine blades were damaged.


PTP Turbo blanket. Given the turbo's proximity to the firewall, this was necessary, and PTP makes the best turbo blankets.


The MAMBATEK CHRA was very impressive. Came with a high speed SCHENCK balancing report, banjo bolts and gaskets. I asked them to ship it with a brass thrust bearing keeping longevity in mind. It usually comes with a steel one. High flow billet compressor wheel.

[bhuvan_prasad]

Continued from the first post.

With the PS pump changed, the car was now driveable. The long journey of tuning, ironing out the niggles and getting everything sorted was to begin. I was in no hurry to hasten this process as with me being in Gurgaon, and Venkat in Bangalore, I'd rather this process take a month of two extra, over me getting stranded in Gurgaon, with Venkat 2200Km away. Plus, my figo was keeping me very happy and satisfying all my needs, be it track days at BIC, pottering about town or blazing down to Lucknow on the new expressway (http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...1-5l-tdci.html).

Joe helped with the tuning. With a rough K24 basemap, the car was taken out and tuning at idle and low RPM/low load was sorted out first. The engine sounded happy , and there were no leaks, nothing. After this we faced an issue. After 2000RPM if one was aggressive on the throttle, it seemed like the clutch was slipping. We were a little surprised that this was happening so early on itself, that too with a 230mm brand new OEM clutch. We checked if it was a boost leak, or anything else before I ordered an ACT stage 3 clutch and lightweight flywheel. This ACT clutch was rated to 45Kgm of torque, and the flywheel was half the weight of the stock flywheel. This was again shipped directly from the U.S to India and I paid duty once it was here. This whole set with shipping and duties came close to a lakh.

This was mid January 2017. My brother in law(a fellow TBHpian mrpitt) was getting married in Hyderabad on Feb 6th and I planned to be in Hyderabad for a good 10 days. Thought this is a good chance to do a proper shakedown of the build and give my feedback to Venkat for the final leg. I went down to Bangalore for the republic day weekend. Venkat, Chandru and I worked overtime to fit the new flywheel and clutch. Given the tight constraints of the engine bay, we had to remove the full engine and gearbox and then proceed to install this.

Easiest to remove the engine from the bottom along-with the full sub frame.


XACT Flywheel Streetlite - for street and race use


With the clutch installed. Came with very clear instructions and torque ratings for all the bolts.


The clutch came with a note, that the clutch MC on this Civic has a feedback plate and is known to fail, hence they advice a clutch MC from older Honda's. K-tuned had a kit with braided lines so I picked this up, and this was installed later. Can also see the 4 new OEM coil packs that I ordered from Honda, when one of them failed. New timing chain(preventive maintenance) and a Skunk2 K-series timing chain tensioner can also be seen, that were eventually installed.


BHPian Nikhilb2008's dad was selling his Civic, so he was selling the Teins on them. The teins had just been serviced 20k Kms ago and driven sedately by his dad, so in good shape. I had just put in new TRW's which were brilliant below 90Km/h, but scary above. I took the plunge and bought these teins and Chandru and I installed them in a day.


Before putting the engine in, an aluminium heat shield was fabricated using 2 old honda city heat shields, and installed to prevent the header from heating up the engine firewall and other stuff near it.


Nikhil also had full-race traction balls on his civic(http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...ml#post4086892), which went into my car, as he found them too noisy and reverted to stock. They have been silent so far in my car, so his loss, my gain.


A BMW air-oil separator for the crankcase PCV valve was also installed.


Once the clutch and teins were installed and engine was put in, it was time to check whether the whole exercise was worth it. This was when Venkat and I for the first time experienced why people abroad keep doing K-swaps into everything. I was driving, we eased out of the garage. The pedal feel was firm, but not unnecessarily so, and was fairly drive-able. We entered onto the ORR, and in 2nd gear, around 2000RPM, I probably pressed the throttle 50% of the way. We were properly pushed back in our seats and various curse words were said.

The car was pulling like a freight train from 2000-4000RPM. Over that, since the car was not tuned yet, plus due to the cam settings, the engine wasn't making as much power as intended. Fixable with a dyno session and some changes to the timing. We met up with fellow BHPian Nikhilb2008 and headed out of Bangalore on the Hyderabad highway to ensure that the car was all OK. Nikhil came in his turbo R18 civic running a GT28 disco potato. My evo turbo is roughly the same size. But, when I'd floor it at 2000RPM I was leaving him behind because of the absolute lack of lag due to the smallish twin scroll turbo, and nice torque from the engine. I couldn't smoke him because I had a non-existent top end, but we drove very spiritedly and returned to Bangalore having covered 160 odd Km, and the engine did not skip a beat.

The valve timing being off did result in dramatic pics like the one below :P


The AC gas was not filled, hence all the drives, including the trip which was to happen to Hyd and back were without the AC. The stock ECU were controlling the fans coming on, and Venkat wasn't too happy about this, and the next day we connected the Fans to the Haltech. This meant I had exhausted all my outputs and had to place an order for an output expander for the Haltech for when I connect my AC. We wanted maximum control of the components from the Haltech, as we can control and monitor that.

The speedo and rev counter needed a slight mod to run. The number of teeth differs between the R18 and K24 gearboxes, hence the signal from the K24 sensor had to be multiplied by a correction factor using an Arduino board, and then fed to the speedo and Rev counter. We tried calibrating the speedo to GPS speeds, basically doing away with the error, but it under reads a tad, 100 on the speedo is 103 on the GPS now.

We started for Hyderabad the next day. The drive was going great till about 180Km from Hyd, the car started running on 3 cylinders. A quick look under the engine bay, showed everything to be normal, and no weird fumes were coming from the exhaust as well, so we decided to continue towards hyd, as maybe an injector, spark plug or coil pack failed. I drove at 90Km/h and reached home without much fuss. Once home a quick diagnosis revelaed one coil pack failed. These were the original coil packs that came with the engine, and given that we had no idea of the age and mileage of the engine, we should have put in new ones in the first place. I ordered a set immediately. Venkat, meanwhile had a spare in Bangalore, so he had Chandru overnight a replacement and I replaced the coil pack, changed the plugs and everything was back to normal. The car was used a bit during the wedding in Hyd, and on Feb 8th, Venkat, my Dad(who had some work near Anantapur) and I drove back to Bangalore in it, for Venkat to do the finishing touches and final dyno tune.

The drive was smooth, and Dad also enjoyed driving the car, except for no AC and the short gearing. The CR-V has very short gearing as it as a soft-roader. In the civic, with a turbo, 5th felt like 3rd, and the car was crying out for more gears. We evaluated adding a 6th gear, but finally a decision was taken to install accord 3,4,5 gears in order to keep it simple and save time.

With the car safely back in Bangalore, having completed a reliable 1500Km shakedown, it was now time for the final touches. A proper dyno tune, the gearing changes, installing the modified clutch MC for longevity and fixing the AC, among other small things.

[camaroZL1]

This is brilliant stuff man! Congratulations! That K-Swap feeling is dreamy, I bet. Venkat is acing everything thrown at him from everything I've been hearing!

[ImmortalZ]

Friggin' finally. I dreamed of doing this for 10 years. And here you are, living it.

During the short (barely 200m) run I had in the car back before it was dynoed, I could tell there is a beast under the hood that just needed to be taught how to use its grunt. The noise, too!

Later doing one of my BLR trips I had the opportunity to properly give it a work out in the post midnight roads. And Venkat ended up recommending I upgrade my driving to do the car justice.

Please post the rest ASAP.

[sudeepg]

Bhuvan,

Many thanks for sharing all the details of your civic's resurrection here! I thoroughly enjoyed it. After having gone through all that ordeal, it is refreshing to know that you kept at getting your civic back on road. Venkat is no stranger and I have had the pleasure of meeting him once for a small electrical issue and it was a fantastic experience.

I look forward to getting further updates about your car.

[rageshgr]

Wow! Congrats Bhuvan! You have gone whole hog on the Civic! Was vicariously living your excitement through your words. Eager to know how the details of the beast after the top-end tune and clutch pack upgrade!

[pradeepnair]

Originally Posted by bhuvan_prasad

It is not often in one’s life that one undertakes builds like this. It is not often that one goes against normal logic and does the extreme opposite of it. It is not often that one attempts to do something for the first time in a country. Finally, it is also not often that one finds threads documenting all this. So sit down, strap yourself and get ready for a long ride full off build details, part descriptions, pictures, machining work, dyno figures and the likes.

But, my brain started doing some math. The car once restored to its stock state would get 2.5 Lakhs at best, leaving me with 2 Lakhs plus additional cash to get a new, fun car(assuming around 50k was needed to get new rods, bearings and rebuild the engine). Nothing south of the 320d seemed appealing enough, and there was no way I was blowing up so much cash to get the beemer. So fixing up the civic suddenly seemed the “sensible” thing to do. But, can it be so simple. Not a chance in hell.

Fine. Dont sell, but what then? :
With two turbo builds on the R18, I had pretty much experienced what an R18 can give, without going forged. Given the restrictive head, single cam and other limitations of the R18, spending cash to build an R18 engine didn’t seem appealing. Since my initial days of having the Civic, I always fancied doing a K-swap. However, I kept those plans locked away knowing the complexities involved - Mounts, wiring etc. I’ve worked with Venkat once for a week in Feb 2016 when he setup Blackworks and had seen his ease and expertise with AutoCAD and OCD with wiring. I drummed up the courage and casually asked him one day:

The PS pump that came with the engine was shot, and it basically prevented the car from being taken out on the road. The engine otherwise was running fine. Managed to get a refurbished one from ebay, which a friend carried down, and by December 2016 end the car was finally moving!!

To be continued.

Amazing!!! The positive attitude, the fighting spirit and the meticulous planning along with Venkat and other members - Hats Off.

I am not an engineer nor do I have the kind of basic knowledge of engines and how it works. But it was kind of good feel when I was reading about your test drive.

Years of planning and getting the right resources, plugging in all together, then to make it work together to the level of your requirement - it takes real effort and I feel you people have lot of positives - May I suggest something - why not try build a brand new engine (may be from scratch). I feel you should be able to get support many TBHP'ians.

[GT3]

You are a VERY BRAVE man and the buitds you do are not for the faint hearted. Enjoy your car bro