[raptor_diwan]

Wow, this is the type of blog I love to read. The content is great, and everything seems to be well executed. Eagerly waiting for the next update!

[Chhanda Das]

Very nice and congratulations on the "funcari" modification/s.

I wish that the Government of India and/or the honorable Supreme Court of India would allow such tastefully done modifications in India as well

Thank you very much for sharing your brilliant work with us. Eagerly waiting for more updates. Wishing you all the best

[NiInJa]

This project is right on track to be the father of all DIY projects. Eagerly waiting to see how the car goes from 0 to OMG.

Based on my limited knowledge on mechanical stuff, I hope the steel brackets are thick enough to withstand shocks and vibrations and there are strengthening bits added.

Example of what I trying to say:

[BeemerBug_06]

What an interesting an unique project. I would never have even thought that someone would undertake such a build. Thank you for taking out the time to articulate it all here.

It's pretty interesting to learn and know about how some of the most popular cars sold in India are distinctly different across the border. I had no idea the Alto got the F10A motor, was under the impression that it had the F8B there as well. The F10A was sold here with the Maruti 1000 (Suzuki Margalla for you) and the early Maruti Gypsies (Suzuki Potohar).

The swap looks to be very neat indeed. Looking forward to hear more about it from you. PS : Would be great if you can share some videos of the car in action once it's done. Would definitely be worth a watch !

Do keep this thread updated .

[Jeroen]

very interesting and well executed. It will be interesting to find out how it drives and handles when you are done.

Good luck, look forward to see some more.

Jeroen

[frankmehta]

Greetings to our neighbour brother with the same wavelength!
Love the attention to detail and the love for the car! Honda i-dsi/ivtec engines are available dime a dozen here (heck, I have a brand new 1.2 ivtec lying in my garage from the 1.5 L15A7 swap in my Honda Brio {CRIO}).
Thanks for putting dirty thoughts in our heads, and entertaining us with this wet dream of a car. Please keep updating the thread with videos of engine and exhaust notes and a flyby, maybe.

KUDOS!

[Yash390]

This is why I love TeamBHP, members doing things the common public wouldn't even think of, sharing their endless knowledge, skills and passion with everyone. This website is the first I open when I start my day, and today I had to rub my eyes pretty hard to actually digest the thread title. I recommend everyone to sit with a tub of popcorn and go through this thread. Thanks for sharing !

[ExplorerXIII]

The replacement engine probably produces twice as much power and torque as the original. Do you have plans to fortify chassis, breaks and wheels?

[Ovais]

Thank you so much everyone for the warm welcome that the project/thread has gotten. The appreciation from like-minded brethren from across the border means a lot! I'll definitely continue posting more updates on the project and share what I'm doing to it.

Originally Posted by dpuneet

Good job mate...waiting for the final outcome and the fun you will enjoy with this power in Alto

Thank you so much for the appreciation! The performance bit is definitely an exciting one for me as well. Jumping to about twice the power in a car that weighs more or less similar to what it did before definitely is a recipe for great power to weight ratio. However, my car is driven about a 100km daily, so good fuel efficiency was one of the most important requirements of the project.

Regarding the weight of the engine, the engine itself is actually lighter than the F10a engine as the the L13A is an Aluminum Head/Aluminum Block engine while the F10a was Iron Block/Iron Head. However, the transmission with this engine is a lot heaver than the manual transmission with the F10a. So overall, this engine+transmission is about 20kg heavier than the previous one, so essentially not too heavy to throw off the dynamics by a lot.

Originally Posted by tchsvy

This is some DIY! I absolutely love the wordplay 'funcari', you really are a funkar and I hope your drive turns out to be a fun-car. <Sorry, I will see myself out!>

Thank you so much! I'm glad that you liked the name as well and deciphered both the meanings incorporated into it!

Originally Posted by raptor_diwan

Wow, this is the type of blog I love to read. The content is great, and everything seems to be well executed. Eagerly waiting for the next update!

Thank you so much for the appreciation!

Originally Posted by Chhanda Das

Very nice and congratulations on the "funcari" modification/s.

Thank you so much. What you have shared is interesting for me. Does the government not allow engine swaps in India?

Originally Posted by NiInJa

This project is right on track to be the father of all DIY projects.

Thank you so much for the appreciation! Means a lot! I've intended the steel brackets and other bits to actually be an overkill for the requirement of this swap. The metal used to fabricate them is 5mm thick and the welding rods used are 7018 type which offers very strong welds. In addition, gussets as seen in the photo that you have shared have also been added. The same can be seen in the photos below. The overall construction was especially designed in a way that the pieces serve as gussets to each other.

[Ovais]

Originally Posted by BeemerBug_06

What an interesting an unique project. I would never have even thought that someone would undertake such a build. Thank you for taking out the time to articulate it all here.

It's pretty interesting to learn and know about how some of the most popular cars sold in India are distinctly different across the border. I had no idea the Alto got the F10A motor, was under the impression that it had the F8B there as well. The F10A was sold here with the Maruti 1000 (Suzuki Margalla for you) and the early Maruti Gypsies (Suzuki Potohar).

The swap looks to be very neat indeed. Looking forward to hear more about it from you. PS : Would be great if you can share some videos of the car in action once it's done. Would definitely be worth a watch !

Do keep this thread updated .

Thank you so much for the kind words, means a lot! Yes, that is correct, the Alto came with an F10a with a 5 speed manual transmission and so did the Suzuki Potohar/SJ410 and the Margalla/Swift Sedan came with a G13 engine. The Suzuki Mehran, known as the Maruti 800 for you and the Suzuki Bolan/Ravi which are a van and a pickup, they came with an f8b engine.

I'll share videos of the performance once I have those.

Originally Posted by Jeroen

very interesting and well executed. It will be interesting to find out how it drives and handles when you are done.

Good luck, look forward to see some more.

Jeroen

Thank you so much!

Originally Posted by frankmehta

Greetings to our neighbour brother with the same wavelength!
Love the attention to detail and the love for the car! Honda i-dsi/ivtec engines are available dime a dozen here (heck, I have a brand new 1.2 ivtec lying in my garage from the 1.5 L15A7 swap in my Honda Brio {CRIO}).
Thanks for putting dirty thoughts in our heads, and entertaining us with this wet dream of a car. Please keep updating the thread with videos of engine and exhaust notes and a flyby, maybe.

KUDOS!

Thank you so much for the appreciation! You are too kind I will definitely share videos once I have them.

Originally Posted by Yash390

This is why I love TeamBHP, members doing things the common public wouldn't even think of, sharing their endless knowledge, skills and passion with everyone. This website is the first I open when I start my day, and today I had to rub my eyes pretty hard to actually digest the thread title. I recommend everyone to sit with a tub of popcorn and go through this thread. Thanks for sharing !

Thank you so much for the appreciation! I'm glad that you feel that way about the thread!

Originally Posted by ExplorerXIII

The replacement engine probably produces twice as much power and torque as the original. Do you have plans to fortify chassis, breaks and wheels?

That is correct, the power and torque are twice as much as they were before. The chassis will be fortified with a bottom cross member and a strut bar made out of 1 inch diameter steel bars. This car originally didn't come with a bottom crossmember, but I will be adding one to reduce chassis flex. Regarding the brakes, a brake upgrade is definitely on the cards. I intend to use bigger brakes on the front eventually, I'll see what car's brakes I can use with minimal modification.

Regarding the wheels, I already have 13" 5JJ wheels on the car with wider tyres. I might switch to alloy wheels some time down the road if I can find a good deal on some Japanese alloy wheels because the market is flooded with non-rated wheels.

[ExplorerXIII]

Good luck with the project. This will inspire others to embark on similar endeavors both for two and four wheelers.

[Ovais]

Originally Posted by ExplorerXIII

Good luck with the project. This will inspire others to embark on similar endeavors both for two and four wheelers.

Thank you so much. I would be very happy if it served as inspiration to others as well

[Ovais]

Time for more updates. Since the brake master cylinder was very close to the oil filler cap on the engine, it would have fouled with the cap so I needed a master cylinder/servo that was shorter. This is the one that I got; it fits perfectly. Now I have a little over 1.5 inches of room compared to the 0.5 inch that I had earlier. The pipe configuration on it is the same as the previous one as well so I didn’t have the bend the pipes either.






Also, this master cylinder clears the rear ignition coil. The orientation of this coil had to be changed a little though, it was rotated about 180 degrees to clear, and a bracket was made to hold it in place.





Next up are the parts to reduce flex of the chassis. The first bit is the strut bar. The strut bar helps control the flex between the strut/shock towers. In the last batch of CNC cut parts, I had plates cut to be mounted on top of the strut towers. L-shaped brackets were then welded to these top plates and on both towers, then a 1-inch diameter steel rod was welded between these two. This formed the strut bar.


















Next up was the bottom cross member. To begin fabricating the bottom cross member, I used a 1-inch thick steel rod to tie the control arm mounting points. The bar was bent to accommodate the rear mount bracket. The corners were then boxed and welded from all sides to add strength.

















Next, I added rods from the corners to the stabilizer bar plates on both sides. Once that was done, the corners then had gussets welded from both top and bottom so that there’s no flex in the cross-member itself. If the cross-member flexes itself, it won’t be able to reduce flex in the chassis, therefore, this was an imported component of the cross-member. All pieces were welded together for it to make really sturdy.

This is what the crossmember looks like. It now ties 4 areas on the chassis and reduces chassis flex diagonally and between the control arms. A fourth rod will be added to the front once the radiator plumbing and mounts are finalized so that there’s enough space for both. You’ll notice that one side rod is a little bent, that was done to clear the oil sump.

[Ovais]

Next up is the radiator. Having tried a few different radiators, the radiator that was finalized was from a 1.3 Belta/Vitz. The inlet/outlet ports were aligning with the engine and the radiator itself could be fitted in the little space that I have.



I tried a few different fans as well. But they didn’t fit. Then I decided to go for a pusher fan setup but unfortunately, there wasn’t enough space between the bumper and the condenser to fit one. So I tried the Alto’s original fan and it fit perfectly. It was a high CFM fan so it would suffice for the cooling as well. However, since it was made for a smaller radiator, the shroud was narrower than the radiator that I now I have.

That would mean that while the car is stationary and the fan is running, the area that is not covered by the fan shroud will not be cooled by the fan. So I extended the fan shroud to cover that area. The shroud was made in a way that it also clears the engine behind the radiator.












The next thing to tackle was the plumbing of the radiator. While the top hose pipe had a straight route from the radiator to the engine, there wasn’t enough space to route a rubber pipe from the bottom port to the engine like it is done in a Honda City or a Jazz because in my case, the engine was really close to the radiator.

So, I had to make a stainless-steel pipe around the starter to fit in the available space. I used 1.5 inch stainless steel elbows and welded them to the same size stainless-steel pipe and formed the complete pipe. There are going to be two rubber joints connected to it, one will connect it to the engine, and an elbow to connect it to the radiator. Once the fitment of the radiator is complete and all the brackets are made, this pipe will then be polished to a mirror finish.






















These are all the updates for now. Will be sharing more once there are more updates to share

[norhog]

Good Modification.

With the modification of the radiator with the shroud, will there be place for AC condenser to be fitted.

Also, how about not fitting the shroud for the fan. when car is moving at any speed, there will be natural air flow across the radiator fins.

I think by adding the shroud, the fan has to be running continuously, vehicle stationary or moving what is your opinion?