[m4ugr8]

So almost after 5000 KMS of getting the REMAP done, The car is running like charm with no issues whatsoever, but like they say there is nothing called excessive power. till the now the performance mods include only the Remap+Exhaust+Intake.

I dont want to go the FI Way, I am pretty much happy with the NA form and would like to keep it that way only, I want to ask, what more can be done to the same engine in NA form to get more power out of it?? I have heard people talking about intake manifold etc, will that actually take the power up??

[pranavt]

It will free up power that is being lost because of a restrictive intake manifold. Not sure if aftermarket manifolds are available for the R18, but check Skunk2, Edelbrock and other manufacturers who make them for Hondas. If you do find one for your engine, expect to pay anywhere between 15-30k including shipping, duties and whatnot.

Edit: Why not go for head work? Perhaps a wilder set of cams if they're available for the engine? The ECU remap will have to be done again if you're going for aftermarket/custom cams though.

[ImmortalZ]

R18A head is too focussed on FE to make any port and polish work worth it. No performance cams are available for the engine either. The Honda scene is completely nuts on the K series. There was a turbo kit out of the R18A and it never was fully bugfixed by the manufacturer.

The intake is a good place to start, but changing to a generic CAI will only serve to wreck the torque curve of the engine. The new generation R and K series engines have some nifty variable length intake setups which are all setup for the stock intake air path. The theory is that the wavefront in the intake system matches to the piston speed at a certain RPM. When this happens, a forced induction style effect appears and the torque output of the engine peaks at that certain sharp RPM. They have a ECU controlled plate of some sort inside the manifold's plenum which changes the length of the intake system with the RPM to keep this wavefront shape perfectly in sync with the engine RPM (a resonant effect) across the rev range. The result is a higher torque output across the range.

Change the intake and this system goes for a toss because the length of the air intake changes and thus the ECU's programming no longer matches the hardware. This is why a lot of track racing Civcs abroad are equipped with the JDM Type-R stock intake box combined with the JDM stock intake manifold. It performs (and screams) better than any aftermarket product.

[m4ugr8]

Going by ImmortalZ post I should chuck this idea and pick up a K24 Accord ASAP

[m4ugr8]

Ohh I forgot, I did some Weight Shedding/reduction to increase performance of my car

Here are some pics

[mclaren1885]

I can't understand the fixation with bumping up the rev limiters. If one sees the power curve at some point it starts to taper downwards at a particular point. Anything you rev beyond this point is all dead revs. It makes more sense to shift to the next gear and stay within the powerband.

[m4ugr8]

Originally Posted by mclaren1885

I can't understand the fixation with bumping up the rev limiters. If one sees the power curve at some point it starts to taper downwards at a particular point. Anything you rev beyond this point is all dead revs. It makes more sense to shift to the next gear and stay within the powerband.

Extended Rev-Limiter is like an added bonus feature, Remap I guess does not only mean the Rev-limit increase right?? One who drives a Civic on daily basis can very very easily judge the increase in power at lower revs. The way the car pulls from almost 1500 RPM all the Way to 7000RPM in any gear is addictive.

I know of three Civics now all running the same Remap and very very happy with the performance gains they have.

[mclaren1885]

Manan, honestly its better off to stick to the stock limiter and change the fueling and ignition within that range where you know your power is not dropping off. If you look at the other chart of the dyno run, the power is dropping around 7,300 rpm. Does it make sense to rev to 7,800 or 8,000 then? If you are not making any power, I don't see how an extended rev limiter is a bonus feature.

[abhinav.gupta88]

What is the stock rev limiter of the civic?

If it is lesser than 7300 rpm, then the extended rev limiter is helping him. But only till 7300rpm.

[mclaren1885]

Originally Posted by abhinav.gupta88

What is the stock rev limiter of the civic?

If it is lesser than 7300 rpm, then the extended rev limiter is helping him. But only till 7300rpm.

I am sorry! I just looked at the curve more carefully. It seems the power starts to taper downwards from around 71xx rpm.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attach...-no-filter.jpg

[m4ugr8]

Originally Posted by mclaren1885

Manan, honestly its better off to stick to the stock limiter and change the fueling and ignition within that range where you know your power is not dropping off. If you look at the other chart of the dyno run, the power is dropping around 7,300 rpm. Does it make sense to rev to 7,800 or 8,000 then? If you are not making any power, I don't see how an extended rev limiter is a bonus feature.

I agree on this, Power Does drop very very steeply after 7300RPM, and you are right maybe keeping the limiter at the stock will not harm anything, but even If I can rev till 7800 is there any harm??

And In a Drag wont it be an advantage as I can Rev more and the In-Gear top speeds increase?? Maybe I need to use one less gear as compared to the stock car?? I save time in shifting. Plus In a Drag I think this actually helps, You may accidentally hit the Rev-limiter if the Stock is at 7100RPM, When its at 7800RPM, I can eaisly shift at 7000/7100 RPM without even coming near the Revlimiter.

Stock Rev-Limiter is 7100RPM I think.

[mclaren1885]

Originally Posted by m4ugr8

I agree on this, Power Does drop very very steeply after 7300RPM, and you are right maybe keeping the limiter at the stock will not harm anything, but even If I can rev till 7800 is there any harm??

Yes, if your mapping at these RPM's is not right it could harm your engine. Also can your springs handle these RPM's? There are many other reasons as well. But my basic reason would be when you are not making power, is there any point in revving?

And In a Drag wont it be an advantage as I can Rev more and the In-Gear top speeds increase?? Maybe I need to use one less gear as compared to the stock car?? I save time in shifting. Plus In a Drag I think this actually helps, You may accidentally hit the Rev-limiter if the Stock is at 7100RPM, When its at 7800RPM, I can eaisly shift at 7000/7100 RPM without even coming near the Revlimiter.

In my opinion, one looses more time revving in a band where power is dropping vis a vis to shifting an additional time. Atleast you are always in the powerband. But all this is just hypothetical. Only way to be sure is to do back to back runs.

[m4ugr8]

Spring/Shocks/Struts Being upgraded as we speak. I guess Zakie can answer these questions better. What I know is even at 7800RPM the FPM Rate is less than 5000 which is ok, It wont harm the engine.

[pranavt]

Upgraded to what? (20 chars)

[m4ugr8]

Originally Posted by pranavt

Upgraded to what? (20 chars)

Will post the details, As soon as everything is fitted.