[honeybee]

If you have a comprehensive insurance, you can get the glass replaced free. You may have to pay for the labour, though.

You should have filed an FIR, whether the owner agreed to pay or not. You could still lodge it, just to put the matter on record.

But please also check if the glass panes are available in the market.

[absynthguzzler]

I recently spotted a Contessa with a HM logo I've not seen before. Alas there are no pics available, but the "H" and "M" were written in a sharpish font and red in colour. The "H" was above the "M". The vehicle had chrome bumpers, so I'm guessing it was the earlier model releases.

Was this a desi jugaad twist on the logo or an original ? Ive tried to spot the same on t-bhp pictures but haven't seen it yet. A google search on HM's history of Logo's hasnt brought up much even.

Edit: Just to avoid the confusion, the logo is different from what Miyer's car has even. This was longer in length and more rakish in font.

[regnex]

Originally Posted by absynthguzzler

I recently spotted a Contessa with a HM logo I've not seen before. Alas there are no pics available, but the "H" and "M" were written in a sharpish font and red in colour. The "H" was above the "M". The vehicle had chrome bumpers, so I'm guessing it was the earlier model releases.

Was this a desi jugaad twist on the logo or an original ? Ive tried to spot the same on t-bhp pictures but haven't seen it yet. A google search on HM's history of Logo's hasnt brought up much even.

Edit: Just to avoid the confusion, the logo is different from what Miyer's car has even. This was longer in length and more rakish in font.

I Think these were standard in the 90's. Check out my Conty Picture on page 12 of this thread, is that the same type you had seen?

BTW, sorry to respond so late to you guys, my ride is a Petrol 1.8 and is a 1994 model.

cheers

[?ushk@r]

Originally Posted by absynthguzzler

I recently spotted a Contessa with a HM logo I've not seen before. Alas there are no pics available, but the "H" and "M" were written in a sharpish font and red in colour. The "H" was above the "M". The vehicle had chrome bumpers, so I'm guessing it was the earlier model releases.

Was this a desi jugaad twist on the logo or an original ? Ive tried to spot the same on t-bhp pictures but haven't seen it yet. A google search on HM's history of Logo's hasnt brought up much even.

Edit: Just to avoid the confusion, the logo is different from what Miyer's car has even. This was longer in length and more rakish in font.

Something like this?

[Tej Khokhar]

Dear Members,

Since this thread is to address all technical related queries, i am posting an observation (an irritating one , at that). I would really appreciate some inputs on the same :

My conti has a 1.8 Petrol MPFI engine.

1. All engine parts are original.
2. The IDLE sensor was replaced 1 year ago as it was causing an uneven idle due to a malfunction. (However, the problem out-dates the part change)
3. the car has a BRC ( non-sequential ) LPG kit installed as well.

The thing i need help with is that when i press the accelerator when the engine at idle speeds, the engine take a time lag before there is any change increase in the engine speed. This is more pronounced at low engine temperatures than at high temp. However, this lag persists even at the 80 degree operating temperature.

When , I switch over to GAS, the car changes the nature - surprisingly this time lag between pressing the accelerator and the engine response VANISHES!!

I am confused and despite a lot of research, i can't understand how or why this happens. I use the IFTEX injector cleaner with every petrol refill and fill petrol only from shell petrol pumps. The injectors are clean as far as i can tell and the car has run 35k kms appox.

I have asked some MPFI Amby owners about the same and they also have this lag. It would be great if someone can explain this phenomena ( MPFI subject experts please help) :

1. is this a design flaw
2. can this be rectified
3. if yes, then how and what would be the procedure

Kindly shed some light on this, with various techniques which can help identify the culprit and possible ways of improving the same.

Thanking you in anticipation !!

[Psycho]

Originally Posted by Tej Khokhar

The thing i need help with is that when i press the accelerator when the engine at idle speeds, the engine take a time lag before there is any change increase in the engine speed. This is more pronounced at low engine temperatures than at high temp. However, this lag persists even at the 80 degree operating temperature.

When , I switch over to GAS, the car changes the nature - surprisingly this time lag between pressing the accelerator and the engine response VANISHES!!

Please check the MAP sensor vacuum tube for leaks

[Miyer]

Another important area to check is your EVAP Canister Control Valves. When your EVAP Canister purge/control valve is not functioning (purges vapours into the inlet manifold when certain engine temperature and speeds are attained) the engine above idle speed tends to get rich and with all the symptoms you mentioned could also be coupled with poor mileage & overheating.


This is more so relevant to you since you run on gas and petrol. The valves are not used while on gas and tend to malfunction. More so, while on gas this is not evident since are injecting gas into the manifold and bypassing this setup.


Taking cognizance of what Psyco says, it could be a MAP Vac tube leak and good to take a look at the pipes and solenoid. (perhaps the MAP Vac solenoid could be malfunctioning or failed). In my experience these rubber/plastic parts last for a really long time unless they are physically damaged.

[Tej Khokhar]

Originally Posted by Miyer

Another important area to check is your EVAP Canister Control Valves. When your EVAP Canister purge/control valve is not functioning (purges vapours into the inlet manifold when certain engine temperature and speeds are attained) the engine above idle speed tends to get rich and with all the symptoms you mentioned could also be coupled with poor mileage & overheating.

Thanks Miyer, Will check this weekend as was tied up with work. So basically, the this could get mixed with the air entering the manifold and effect a richer air-fuel mixture.

Originally Posted by Miyer

This is more so relevant to you since you run on gas and petrol. The valves are not used while on gas and tend to malfunction. More so, while on gas this is not evident since are injecting gas into the manifold and bypassing this setup.

Also, i believe this valve is supposed to be open at all times (tank purge to canister) to ensure all vapors are trapped. so now, on gas will these also enter the manifold once the car runs on gas - in effect burning a bit of fuel as well??!! a bit confused on this.

Originally Posted by Psycho

Please check the MAP sensor vacuum tube for leaks

Thanks Psycho : will check it out and will revert if this helps with the gap/lag.

[RJ555]

Originally Posted by mukundmenon

Finally found out a decent guy experienced on Contessa's to take my Conti for maintenance and repairs.The workshop is called JAS service and is run by Mr Jayan.I told him about the annoying sound coming from the front suspension.It turned out to be busted ball joints and had to replace them all- front upper and lower ball joints and also the power steering ball joint.The bad roads here @ trivandrum made quick work of them it seems.Also some worn out belts would be replaced too.
The new ball joints bought from Coimbatore.

can you share the contact details from teh place u sourced teh spares as i am looking for speedo meter set as well as teh fuel tank float


Note from the Team-BHP Support Team:
Please take the time to use proper spellings.
Do not use SMS language. u is not equal to you.

Thanks.

[mukundmenon]

@RJ555- The spares were got from Alegendra spares, Ukkadam market in Coimbatore.For the speedo and float[which i too am looking for] ,i believe Miyer is the best bet !

My seatbelt got stuck recently- i guess its common cos they are old anyway.I got turned down at two workshops saying that seatbelts cant be fixed/opened and would have get a new pair.So as a last resort i took a close look at it and found that it can indeed be opened up!Let the pics do the talking...

1}2}

First image-A and D are the two openable sides held in place by a Star screw at B. its kind of weird , but i left out C completely-oops! anyway Dont open up A.(actually on both sides its written DO NOT REMOVE!) it holds the spring inside tethered at the end of rod E-so you don't want to mess with it!
Second image-pry open D and you can see the ingenious yet simple mechanism.The teeth 1 were stuck for me which i freed, cleaned ,applied lil oil on the shaft and joints and presto! it works fine.It seems that over time dust and dirt had clogged the mechanism up.i don't think it will compromise the safety as i had not removed any moving parts, besides they were built in England probably the same kind used on the Vauxhall Victor!

Hope this info comes handy for anyone out there facing similar issues.

Ride in pride and Buckle up .
Mukund

[sanjeevkanjoor]

Originally Posted by RJ555

can you share the contact details from teh place u sourced teh spares as i am looking for speedo meter set as well as teh fuel tank float


Note from the Team-BHP Support Team:
Please take the time to use proper spellings.
Do not use SMS language. u is not equal to you.

Thanks.

RJ555,
Just now got my brand new fuel tank and float from the one and only Miyer.Contact him and I'm sure he will be able to help you out.

cheers

[Tej Khokhar]

Originally Posted by Psycho

Please check the MAP sensor vacuum tube for leaks

@ Psycho: checked out the intake manifold - it seems like there are some cracks on the tube coming into the sensor. However, the dosen't seem to be any leak on it. What would be the correct way to check - cause if i pinch this tube the engine shuts down. Is there a method to like step by step check , so that the diagnosis can be ascertained.

In any case i need to change the entire rubber hose as tube on the other side , which is attached to the engine head, seems to have a cut/cracked rubber. Could you highlight the function of this connection - and i guess this can cause the error in sensor reading !?

Have attached a few pics for clarity.

@miyer: tried looking at the canister and the connections of the pipes - and the outlet pipe actually goes into some electric/valve/switch and the outlet of this valve/switch get connected to the bottom of the manifold just under the throttle body. removed the pipe and started the car but couldn't feel any flow through this.

Have attached a few pics for clarity.

PS: sorry about the pic clarity as these are from the phone

[Psycho]

Would suggest that you replace the cracked pipe. Also check if the pipe on the intake manifold from the filter is well seated as in the picture shows the clamp to be loose if so any air leaking in after the reference pipe to the MAP sensor would only lean out the mixture causing the lag. (have run into this trouble mostly on MAF equipped cars)

[pirate]

[quote=shekaran;1152205]In the quest of lowering the carbon footprint of my beloved car ,i decided to install an efficent ignition system. Enter Eureka Tdi ignition,a product of Kiran Bhide.


The Tdi kit comprises of 4 seperate HT coils fixed over the spark plugs,attached to which are 4 amplifiers which provide the juice.


There are 4 sensors that are fitted in the delco housing and a magnet on the rotor. As the rotor turns, a magnetically induced signal is sent from the sensors to the amplifiers and then relayed to the HT coils. The Kit functioning is highly simple and there is even a wire output for hooking a tachometer(auto gauge rpm meter).


The TDI kit is configured to be used with bosch 4 head spark plugs,this was also provided with the kit,so no headache of buying any extra parts.

The TDi kit takes approximately 2 hours to 4 hours to fit depending on the car.so get your favourite music and your preffered snacks.

Conclusion-the performance of the car is dramatically improved from a “shaking stevens to a smooth criminal”.It becomes so smooth and refined ,that it actually feels like the car has mpfi, fuel injection system.

Average was the main reason i installed this kit, it has gone up by 2 km in city, it doesnt seem much, but in a contessa it sure does. Load factor addage like an ac system also works well using the tdi kit, so no change in that dept.

Overall an excellent pleasure of drivability ,really worth 4500/-
Eureka Tdi ignition (Mr.Kiran Bhide) Mahakali caves road-Andheri E.
022 - 28321645 or 65783949
mobile : 9820914008

Ps-Caution while accelerating, because after installing the TDI kit when i went to reverse my contessa from parking i accidentally hit a wall, this was unbelivable even for a slightly experienced driver like me, so u have to be a bit careful while accelerating as the kit is quite sensitive and responsive.


Dear Shekaran,

Hi, my name is Krish and I own a 1995 contessa classic 1.8 petrol. Just got some work done on the engine of my car and wanted to install the Eureka TDI kit. Will the numbers mentioned above of Mr. Kiran Bhide still the same and will the Eureka TDI kit still be available?

Krish

[shekaran]

hi,
the eureka kit is still available but with NGK Iridium spark plugs instead of bosch plugs. costs 5500/- now inclusive of shipping.
autoescorts run by mr.kiran bhide can be contacted in 9820914008, still.

i can vouch for the kit, as mr.kiran bhide is a nice gentleman, who does all/any help/info/assist in making the kit work flawlessly in your conti. also i had the same kit in my gypsy, from 1998 till 2007 without a single fault.

best regards.