[Vintagesoul]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

I tried locking the idle mixture screw today but the engine didn't lose control. The screw wouldn't turn anymore and I didn't force it. I then did the 3 1/2 turns and it became quite smooth but the smoke has a stronger smell of petrol than when it's fully seated and a little more colour too. I then did little less than 1/4th more to get the highest revs and tuned the idle speed screw a little lower. The drive seemed smooth but lacked punch in the mid and higher range. This is still far from perfect as I didn't use an rpm meter and as you pointed out the vacuum hose is missing. But till I find a good mechanic the Sunday drive is the only thing keeping it going. Also fuel seems to leak around the screws as seen in the pic. Is that okay? Also is there anyway to tell if these are the original screws as I remember you said that is important too.

Dear Joshtronic,
To my knowledge the above Idle mixture screw does not seem like the original one .

I will post pictures some time .

This looks like it’s a Maruti ‘s Idle mixture screw.

It seems like your car is running in a rich mixture hence the petrol smell from exhaust .

Also it doesn’t seem like fuel leak , it’s vapour which just shows that combustion takes place . Please don’t mistake it for fuel .

Regarding the vacuum hose , you can get it fixed yourself. Please get a Maruti carburettor vacuum hose and you can fix it to the distributor.

You can call me at +917639009444 regarding any clarity over this issue .

Regards .

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

Also fuel seems to leak around the screws as seen in the pic. Is that okay?
If it is an aftermarket affair the interior vents are incorporated into the dash and not the standalone below dash unit I've seen on some Ambys and Contessas.

Another thing I noticed on the drive was the car seemed to be lacking grease, coming to a standstill really easily and difficult to move even downhill, plus a little squeaking

Please clean the carburetor from the outside by spraying liberally with a carburetor cleaner spray and using a toothbrush. After the cleaning, if you still notice leakage, open the Air Cleaner and check tightness of bolts on the carburetor. If all okay, then you will need to change the gaskets.

I believe all Contessas had the vents with regular blower in non-AC models. It is the Ambassador that came with an aftermarket blower below the dashboard.

For the wheel jamming issue, please lift the car and check each wheel rotation. It could be improperly adjusted (read tightened) front wheel bearings to jammed rear brake liners.
Greasing can be done on the propeller shaft U-joint with a pressure gun.

[UB_007]

Hello Bhpians, my Contessa is currently stripped out for tinkering (had rust here and there as I am in coastal area and she was parked for a while).
Since the rubber beading on the windows, door and windshield were worn out I have decided to replace them. I was able to procure door and window rubber beadings (From Mumbai).
However, I am not able to get the front and rear windshield rubber beading. Any pointers to where or who could have it?

[joshtronic]

Originally Posted by Vintagesoul

Regarding the vacuum hose , you can get it fixed yourself. Please get a Maruti carburettor vacuum hose and you can fix it to the distributor.

Been away for a bit but I’m back to getting the car going. I managed to find the missing hose, which had cracked and come loose, the other end was attached to the distributor. I’ve put it back for now but will replace it with a new hose soon.

Regarding the idle adjust screw I’ve picked up one that is supposedly compatible with the Niki carb. Can I just unscrew the old one and put this in or would there be a particular procedure I need to follow?

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

For the wheel jamming issue, please lift the car and check each wheel rotation. It could be improperly adjusted (read tightened) front wheel bearings to jammed rear brake liners.
Greasing can be done on the propeller shaft U-joint with a pressure gun.

Tomorrow I plan on greasing the U joint, will also check how freely each wheel spins. Could it also be due to lack of oil in the rear axle differential?


I have a query regarding the thermostat. The car runs cold (needle points to C or little higher than C always, and the coolant hoses don’t get that warm. I have a feeling the thermostat has been removed. I wanted to know which car thermostat might be compatible and the temperature grading? Finding an original has proven a little difficult.

[joshtronic]

Today I managed to tune the carburettor better with a different screw, not sure if it’s a Niki screw but I was able to hear the increase in rpm when turning the idle adjust screw after which I brought the rpms down with the throttle adjust and it was pretty smooth, though it just bottoms out at, as an example, 40 kmph in 2nd, after which it does rev but there’s no appreciable increase in speed. Also the leaking petrol on the carburettor housing has stopped with the new screw.

I also checked the rear wheels and found one to not be rotating freely because the brake pads are engaged and won’t come loose. I was unable to dislodge the brake drum. Any pointers to loosening the brake pad so I can drive it to a mechanic would be great. Should I loosen the bleeder valve? Or maybe try with a screwdriver by removing the rubber seal at the back?

I greased 3 universal joints in the propeller shaft. What would be the other grease points in this car?

Also what coolant can be used? Green? The coolant looks to be a murky rusty colour so I figured better to change it and fix a thermostat. Please let me know which thermostats are compatible.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

Any pointers to loosening the brake pad so I can drive it to a mechanic would be great.

The coolant looks to be a murky rusty colour so I figured better to change it and fix a thermosta.

To loosen the rear brake liners (and not pads ), you will have to open the drum by hammering on sides. Use a Plastic headed hammer and give it a beating on the sides; it should come loose.
Any coolant is fine as the purpose is to prevent rust and keep the water from freezing. Make sure you flush the radiator and cylinder walls with the welch plug open.

Thermostat should be available freely for this Isuzu engine.

[joshtronic]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

To loosen the rear brake liners (and not pads ), you will have to open the drum by hammering on sides. Use a Plastic headed hammer and give it a beating on the sides;

I tried giving it some good whacks with this hammer but it didn't budge though quite a lot of black dust fell out, so then I sprayed some brake cleaner in from the gap underneath (2nd photo). It didn't do much immediately, and the brake is still sticking in a certain segment of the wheel rotation though it frees up inbetween, which makes me wonder if there's some accumulation on the brake drum? The drums themselves seem to have been painted and the lug bolts seem to have a bit of paint which is also making it difficult to remove. Will give it another shot in a few days.

The power steering is groaning as well. Initially I thought the vanes might be gone, but it seems to turn fine, then I checked the steering fluid and it looked clean but it was filled much above the high mark. I plan on draining it till the correct level soon, hopefully this will resolve the groaning.

[joshtronic]

Just a quick question about spares for this car, I plan on picking up a few and wanted to ask about the ball joints and bushings, how many ball joints does the car have and how many bushings, and if you could tell me which ones? Also other than these are there any other parts I should keep a spare of? Would greatly appreciate the help, haven't been able to find a spare parts or service manual till now.

[Vintagesoul]

Dear Joshtronic,
The Achilles heels of contessa is its Lower Arm ball joint , you will need to change them , the original ones are not available, so you need to get Mahindra Bolero’s ball joint and suit it in the Contessa’s lower arm. A good lathe shop will be able to do it for you. It’s a slight modification as it’s been successful too.
The upper arm ball joint usually doesn’t give way.
Now , regarding the suspension bushes , a total of 16 bushes in front where the main the lower and upper arm carries 8 bushes are the major bushes needs to be changed. Try sourcing VIR make which is very difficult to get now a days. Once you procure all suspension parts , then you can plan of starting the suspension work.
Regards ,
Armaan Salick

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

Today I managed to tune the carburettor better with a different screw, not sure if it’s a Niki screw but I was able to hear the increase in rpm when turning the idle adjust screw after which I brought the rpms down with the throttle adjust and it was pretty smooth, though it just bottoms out at, as an example, 40 kmph in 2nd, after which it does rev but there’s no appreciable increase in speed.

Found this page on Idle Adjustment in the workshop manual. Posting it here for everyone to refer.

[PreethamNag]

Hello all

My friend is looking to buy a contessa and we have found one, its a stock diesel car. Noon question specific to contessa/HM is it okay to retain the 2L diesel or should we look to swap it with petrol, bigger/turbo diesel. What are the advantages and disadvantages of the stock diesel.
From what I understood it makes less power so not so fun but fuel efficient. Also heard its not that reliable and requires frequent maintenance is that true ?

[Vintagesoul]

Dear Preetham ,
Happy to hear that you have a found a stock diesel HM , the engine is a sluggish one with a phenomenal pick up and good mileage if the pump is set properly .
Swapping to petrol isn’t practically possible as the crown - pinion ratio varies.
Also I doubt about the legal RC endorsement which is not done now a days.
You can try switching to an ambassador grand Turbo 2 litre engine which will be a direct fit and an easy swap or you have to install the 2400 CC Isuzu 4FG1 which should be available in the Mysore market.
The stock engine is reliable and requires no maintenance if it’s done up properly.
But , you can enjoy the drive only if you have a powerful motor like a 4FG1 or the petrol 4ZB1.

[joshtronic]

Hey guys! So this is an petrol Contessa all stock, the engine was not warming up so I replaced the thermostat, now it almost comes to the line on the gauge in start stop traffic, but when moving and on the highway the needle is about halfway there. Does the carb need tuning to get the engine to run at optimal temperature? It performs a lot better when it's warmed up to temp, otherwise it can be sluggish and a little rougher

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by joshtronic

I replaced the thermostat, now it almost comes to the line on the gauge in start stop traffic, but when moving and on the highway the needle is about halfway there.

1. Please check your clutch fan.
2. Check and set your ignition timing to 6 Degrees BTDC. The marks on the timing cover are not marked clearly so clean the marks with an old toothbrush so you can see clearly.
3. Check your autochoke. There is a notch on the carburettor top for aligning. Your engine should idle at ~1500rpm during choke operation.

[joshtronic]

Guys just a curious question, how do the 3 carburettors compare ie Nikki, Mikuni and Pacco, like not technical figures, just driving comfort and feel, also as compared to the MPFI system? Is it possible to install the MPFI system on a carburetted car or is that too technical?