[COMMUTER]

Originally Posted by COMMUTER

Link
I myself have ordered one to mount two trumpets Hella and Generic and will be mounting them DIY soon using their harness. These will consume 600 watts and their relay can take 800 watts.

I finally got this done. I initially thought one harness was enough and spent a long time trying to buy a 60 amp fuse but couldn't. I then thought mounting two 30/40 amp fuses in series might solve the issue but found out that the two wires will have slightly different resistances and current will take the path of least resistance only! I was in a hurry and I wasn't willing to order and wait for one more harness to arrive. I finally decided to put together a harness. I bought the wires and a four pin relay. I removed the bumper and spent a long time finding the place to mount. I finally figured it out and mounted it. It involved screwing the compressors and then crudely tying down the trumpets to a hole in the car frame with the binding wwir used in construction work! It worked, hence it was a success. I made a note to myself to remove the bumper a few thousand kms down the line and check for fouling and try re-mounting them with a solid clamp if I figure one out. I also packed the places where the metal trumpets were touching the plastic coolant tank to be further safe.

Then I installed the vaishnu harness in 10 mins flat. I spent another good hour installing the ad-hoc harness for the second horn. I had already spent upwards of two hours in figuring out the wiring for the same too!

When the wiring was done, I tried putting back the bumper on but found that the foglamp was fouling with the compressor I had mounted. I tried the Allen key set and found that I had the metric set and needed the imperial set. This was a scary moment because, if I failed to remove the foglamp, I need to remove the horn compressor to out back the bumper and start to my place of work the following morning which was 240km away. I started by 8:00AM in the morning and had been spending the whole day at this, taking generous breaks due to the heat and to eat and read more about the wiring. It as 9:00 PM when I faced the final hurdle which appeared almost insurmountable. I asked my Dad and he casually asked me to try the two screwdriver sets. The one I had high hopes on, a grey plastic box with a chunky professional looking wrench didn't fit. I lost heart and half-heartedly tried out the toyish yellow wrench set, which was intended to help with tinkering around watches and electronics, and was astonished to find that the second largest of the wrench fitted. I happily removed the OEM foglamp and mounted the bumper. It was a huge relief!

When I was driving back to my place of work 240km away, I parked for dinner, 50km into the drive. After I finished the dinner and came to the car to resume the drive, I was shocked to find the left side pilot LED bulb glowing. I had the key in my pocket. I immediately removed the LED and thinking of driving back. When I was pondering about the issue, I miraculously remembered that after removing the right OEM foglamp, I had left the left side foglamp bulb hanging when I mounted back the bumper.

I pulled over to the road side and checked the left side foglamp and ascertained that the bulb index had been left hanging. Though it was 10pm, I partially removed the bumper by unscrewing six nuts and pulled it back by 4 inches and I removed the left side bulb. It was wet. I removed the bulb and used a plastic tie to tie the socket to the frame to avoid it contacting any other wire causing a short circuit. As I was clicking back the bumper, I felt pressed to checkout the pilot LED lamp too. I fixed the LED back and was playing around but I couldn't stop the issue from recurring. I finally finished the 240km drive and as I was parking, I again felt pressed to check but I was drowsy and went to sleep for a few hours before starting to office.

After the day at the office wounded down, I started to check the LED issue again. I partially opened the bumper and started checking. I first switched the LED bulbs and found that the bulbs are fault-free. I found that the LED light glows on or off whenever the wiring was moved and checked a bit more. I finally found that the OEM horn's socket,which was dangling free, after I removed an OEM horn,had been making contact with the frame and shorting! I bunched the wires together and stuck them together with insulation tape. After that the LED pilot lamp was glowing without issue. Thank God!. I let it run for over ten minutes and observed the LED light glowing without issue.

I fitted the bumper back and finally conclude the DIY.

The horns' performance is satisfactory.

[Kushagra_29]

Hi man, Can you share the process they followed to install the Hi-tone? I talked to HASS people here but they said they're not authorized to add a Hi-tone and that I can get a new horn set installed from outside. I found an accessories shop that's selling Hyundai genuine horn set(the Infac one) but the guy installing it said that I20's stock wiring won't be able to take the load.

If you can share your experience and how the HASS on your end managed to install the hi-tone, I can use the same approach here in Lucknow. Also, if you could, please share a video of the horn output after the install.
Cheers!

[revvharder]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Yes, the stock horns on Toyota vehicles are Roots Smart Tone (not Denso) and draw 3A each. These are inexpensive when purchased retail at about Rs 500-600/pair.

Hello sir, i was considering getting horns which sounded similar to the current fortuner/Innova and as suggested by you will be purchasing these Roots smartone via boodmo.
Just wanted to know will these be effective enough for our highways as several members having Toyotas upgraded to Hella Chromes.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by revvharder

Hello sir, i was considering getting horns which sounded similar to the current fortuner/Innova and as suggested by you will be purchasing these Roots smartone via boodmo. Just wanted to know will these be effective enough for our highways as several members having Toyotas upgraded to Hella Chromes.

Effectiveness is a very subjective thing. All I can say is these horns are audible to all but seriously hearing impaired people or duffers who refuse to give way or pay attention to oncoming vehicles.

I too have upgraded to Hella Red Grille (Super Tone) horn set. These are very loud but burn through the contact points very quickly and require maintenance in equal proportion. The good thing is these horns can be repaired.

The biggest catch with Hella Super Tones and Trumpets like most after market horns is they require an aux harness. Your factory wiring and horns are normally rated for 2-3A while these consume more. You can buy the Hella harness from Amazon and modify it for a positive switch circuit. Details in my previous posts on this thread.

[revvharder]

Originally Posted by R2D2

I too have upgraded to Hella Red Grille (Super Tone) horn set. These are very loud but burn through the contact points very quickly and require maintenance in equal proportion. The good thing is these horns can be repaired.

The biggest catch with Hella Super Tones and Trumpets like most after market horns is they require an aux harness. Your factory wiring and horns are normally rated for 2-3A while these consume more. You can buy the Hella harness from Amazon and modify it for a positive switch circuit. Details in my previous posts on this thread.

I do have the Hella Red Grille's stuffed away in the storage from our last SUV but my mechanic actually advised against these as they might shear off the mounting points on the WagonR and also the cabin insulation is pretty poor so don't want loads of noise to intrude in the cabin.
With the trumpet type horns i've observed that the sound tends to reverberate in the engine bay and another negative is they aren't water resistant so that's why i was looking at disc type horns.

If you have any other recommendations do share as the market is currently loaded with trumpet type horns.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by revvharder

If you have any other recommendations do share as the market is currently loaded with trumpet type horns.

If you want disc type horns there are multiple choices from Roots (like the Toyota OEM horn), Bosch and Hella to choose from. Pick a Denso set if you can find it. You can pick the one you like but ensure the wiring in your car take take the load otherwise fit an aux harness.

Also horns are water resistant to varying degrees but its best not to assume water resistance is good in a particular model. It is best they are mounted behind the front grille where they will be protected from the rain and even whilst washing. Ensure trumpet and pressure horns are installed with the flared portion pointing *down*.

[revvharder]

Originally Posted by R2D2

If for e.g. the factory horns are 3A and the aftermarket horns are 6A, you will need to bypass the OEM harness and fit an auxiliary harness with a relay AND a 15A/20A fuse to protect the wiring from overloads and/or short circuits. Do not compromise on safety.

A car that came with only 1 horn (the embarrassing beep-beep the roadrunner type ) will require an auxiliary harness with relay and a fuse.

Sir, Quoting your older post as i was not able to understand as to which fuse you were referring to above should the fuse for the horn that was provided by the company be upgraded or does the fuse need to be installed in the fuse link since I thought the Hella wiring harness would already come with a fuse.

Sorry for the noob query.

[revvharder]

If you have installed the hella wiring, please guide me.

Just received it so what i understood from seeing the wiring layout and got a little bit confused as:

Pin 30 & 85 is going to the fuse together and then a wire is going for the battery.

Pin 87 is for the new dual horns

Pin 86 is the trigger/old horn

So do i need to depin Pin 85 from the coupler and replace the wire with a ground type thimble and ground it for the WagonR, am i correct?

Request your help ASAP as i will be leaving for a long trip tonight and before that i want affix the new horns.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by revvharder

Sir, Quoting your older post as i was not able to understand as to which fuse you were referring to above should the fuse for the horn that was provided by the company be upgraded or does the fuse need to be installed in the fuse link since I thought the Hella wiring harness would already come with a fuse.

Sorry for the noob query.

Sorry man, I was travelling hence the delay. Now to be absolutely clear this is what I meant:

a) If you're using a jugaad harness made by some electrician you MUST have an inline fuse.

b) The Hella harness comes with a fuse already so make sure it is retained.

Originally Posted by revvharder

If you have installed the hella wiring, please guide me.

Just received it so what i understood from seeing the wiring layout and got a little bit confused as:

Pin 30 & 85 is going to the fuse together and then a wire is going for the battery.

Pin 87 is for the new dual horns

Pin 86 is the trigger/old horn

So do i need to depin Pin 85 from the coupler and replace the wire with a ground type thimble and ground it for the WagonR, am i correct?

Request your help ASAP as i will be leaving for a long trip tonight and before that i want affix the new horns.

Sorry this came in late. Saw your newer message on 26/2, if you're doing it please the Hella wiring diagram PDF attached. Most cars including Marutis have negative connected to the chassis and have +ve switched horns ie the +ve feed is via the horn button. So use the appropriate wiring schematic.

[revvharder]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Sorry man, I was travelling hence the delay. Now to be absolutely clear this is what I meant:

a) If you're using a jugaad harness made by some electrician you MUST have an inline fuse.

b) The Hella harness comes with a fuse already so make sure it is retained.

Sorry this came in late. Saw your newer message on 26/2, if you're doing it please the Hella wiring diagram PDF attached. Most cars including Marutis have negative connected to the chassis and have +ve switched horns ie the +ve feed is via the horn button. So use the appropriate wiring schematic.

I had ordered Hella Relay via amazon, as i was unable to depin in order to switch it over i took it to a mechanic who proceeded to tell me that no relay is required there is already a relay present in the main fuse box and showed me the 15Amp fuse in secondary fuse box so it isn't necessary and said horns with rating upto 10 Amps are fine.

I told him to install it anyways to which he told me that the signal wire needs to be tapped via inside the cabin, so i dropped the idea and installed Roots Smartone horn which are rated at 3 amps each via connection splitter instead of the 5Amp each bosch ones and returned the harness to amazon.

I confirmed it via 3 or 4 mechanics and all told me no relay is required but didn't say anything about the signal needs to be tapped via cabin near the steering thing

I will be back this weekend and thinking of making a harness myself as i have a complete harness along with fuse from a previous project and will take signal from existing connection.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by revvharder

I had ordered Hella Relay via amazon, as i was unable to depin in order to switch it over i took it to a mechanic who proceeded to tell me that no relay is required there is already a relay present in the main fuse box and showed me the 15Amp fuse in secondary fuse box so it isn't necessary and said horns with rating upto 10 Amps are fine.

Here's the thing - normally with electrical systems I prefer the load doesn't exceed 50% of the medium's capacity be it switches, wires, relays etc. That safety margin is NOT mandatory but I like to have a buffer just in case

I told him to install it anyways to which he told me that the signal wire needs to be tapped via inside the cabin,

The signal wire is present in the engine bay dude, How else do you think the factory horns were working till now? Signal wire is the trigger wire for the relay AKA the +ve wire that was fitted to the factory horns.

I confirmed it via 3 or 4 mechanics and all told me no relay is required but didn't say anything about the signal needs to be tapped via cabin near the steering thing

That's what I was told too. So I checked my car's fuse value and it was 10A and my Hella Super Tones draw about 5A each. So each time I used the horn it ran the risk of blowing the fuse not to mention the horns didn't sound as loud as they should. Well, so off I went and had a jugaad harness fitted. He messed up my nice Hella relay in the process and had to install a 30A Minda part. I decided to avoid taking the Hella harness to him and have decided to do a DIY some day..just too lazy to get around it. But now that one of the horns is acting funny I just may install the harness and a new pair of horns while the Super Tones are repaired. They are repairable BTW.


PS - TBH I stll haven't figured out why Hella choose to make a -ve switched harness when a large majority of cars are +ve switched.

[ChiragBasu]

Hi guys,

Had a quick query. My brand new i10 Nios automatic had to wade through a waterlogged street yesterday, with my driver at the wheel. However, the horn has faded to a very faint sound and Hyundai is pushing for a horn replacement for 1700 bucks. They are saying the "coil" inside the horn is shot.

My question is: how much water/ water pressure is required to damage the horn?

I am not in town, and I have a hunch that Hyundai is trying to fleece my mom. I have driven my old Figo and Santro Xing and WagonR through far more waterlogged streets and never faced this problem, which is what is making me suspicious.

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by ChiragBasu

Hi guys,

Had a quick query. My brand new i10 Nios automatic had to wade through a waterlogged street yesterday, with my driver at the wheel. However, the horn has faded to a very faint sound and Hyundai is pushing for a horn replacement for 1700 bucks. They are saying the "coil" inside the horn is shot.

My question is: how much water/ water pressure is required to damage the horn?

I am not in town, and I have a hunch that Hyundai is trying to fleece my mom. I have driven my old Figo and Santro Xing and WagonR through far more waterlogged streets and never faced this problem, which is what is making me suspicious.

Can't tell whether the horn is damaged or not without inspecting it but I upgraded both horns of my i20 to bosch black trumpets from amazon for just 650rs so if you are going to change the horn anyway, might as well buy something better.

[xja1]

Originally Posted by ChiragBasu

My question is: how much water/ water pressure is required to damage the horn?

Considering that your car waded through a waterlogged street, it is safe to assume that a fair amount of water would have gushed into the mouth of the horn. Unfortunately, these trumpet type horns are generally only water spray-proof and not entirely waterproof.

I had a somewhat similar experience with Creta horns after a high pressure water wash, where the horns started sounding dull for a week and then became normal afterwards.

In your case, I suggest getting a horn replacement from Hyundai itself. The cost they have quoted for the horn is in the correct range (usually the original trumpet horn costs between Rs. 1,200 ~ 1,500, without labour charges). Also, since Hyundai uses an OEM horn connector on the i10 Nios, I would not recommend aftermarket horns.

[ThatWhitei20]

Hi Everyone,

I have the 2011 i20 and recently installed the Blaupunkt S92 horn at a reputed audio accessory in Bangalore a few months back, and I was reading through this thread and noticed we have to add a relay to aftermarket horns and I got this done at the same shop about 2 weeks ago. The horn works fine and has no issues.

I noticed my 70mai A500S dash cam fails to auto shut off once the key is removed once in a while, never happened in the last 4 months but noticed this since the horn relay was installed. Has this got to do with the relay installed?

Also, I previously had Roots horn installed and my abs warning light had lit up after a few weeks of installing that horn, and Hyundai said the clock spring went kaput and the scan error showed some electrical issues. I have replaced my clock spring and have no abs warning light at the moment, my question is will the clock spring/abs warning light go bad again since I have installed the new blaupunkt horn? I do have a relay installed this time.

Thanks