[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Satshan

Surprisingly, the Engine oil changed by MASS during my last service has a grade of 0W-40 for Mobil1. When I checked the Mobil1 website, that's the only Synthetic oil exclusively for petrol engines. However, I checked in my Ritz car manual, it says the recommended grade is 5W-30

I don't think that is a point to worry. 0W40 is fine.

Correct me if I am wrong.

Originally Posted by archat68

It is quite well known that MASS uses Mobil1 for both Petrol and diesel vehicles.

He is worried about the grade used in is car.

Anurag.

[tsk13]

Originally Posted by sohail99

Thanks a lot Sagar!

btw I'm confused regarding how are oil filters classified for different engines?
What are the differences? Why can't any oil filter fit my i20?

Internet is absolutely clueless about it!

And apparently, apart from purolator blues(the one my car came with), no one makes oil filter for i20 or I'm not able to find them as I dont have a part number! (hyundai's part number for oil filter is specific to their own parts only)

Is it some weird scheme to keep the customer tied to the service centers?

Regarding taking my baby to HASS(Prolly Rishabh Hyundai where I got her from), I'm very scared to take her there.

90% of my trips there have been full of mishaps, involving service guys and mechanics either hitting my car while taking it in the service bay, or scratching her quite badly with wrenches and screwdrivers
(And later denying the whole thing and blaming it on me that it was already present before the car was brought in!)

No way I'm going back there! No sir.

I'll ask my local garage to help me source the oil filter. As its available absolutely nowhere!!

(except on ebay.co.uk and sgpetch where probably online retailers are allowed to sell car parts and customers have more freedom from dealerships and service centers)

I'll take his help in changing the oil too + they have proper means to dispose off the old oil.

The last services of my i20 have been undertaken by Local Mechanic with Parts sourced by me. I've got the Blue Hyundai Oil Filter from outside and high chances it could be the same for Santro but till date, no issue whatsoever.

No HASS will allow you to bring your own oil unless it's not a Dealership run one! BHPian Maglev told me Rama Hyundai is again authorized in Vasant Kunj with good availability of the parts and shall help you with this requirement of bringing your own oil.

No need to try your luck at Rishabh Hyundai, they're no longer there. Otherwise for specific Oil Filter (Hyundai) check Dasmesh Automotive, Lajpat Nagar (I sourced from them last time, they're on the road in front of Railway Line near Amritsari Meat Wala) or check Moti Bagh Petrol Pump Hyundai Service (where Gyro used to be there).

[slamnos]

I changed my Swift Diesel's engine oil from Mineral to Synthetic after 1,10,000 kms and the drive is noticeably better in terms of engine smoothness and better fuel efficiency.

Also the authorised technician assured that I need not worry about an intermediate service at 5000 kms, spending the extra bucks on Synth oil is absolutely worth it.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by slamnos

I changed my Swift Diesel's engine oil from Mineral to Synthetic after 1,10,000 kms and the drive is noticeably better in terms of engine smoothness and better fuel efficiency.

Also the authorised technician assured that I need not worry about an intermediate service at 5000 kms, spending the extra bucks on Synth oil is absolutely worth it.

The oil change interval will now be 10K kms as opposed to 5K kms for mineral oil.

What I have felt is the smoothness lasts till 8.5-9K kms from oil change after which it is slightly rough.

Anurag.

[Gansan]

^^For Maruti the oil change interval is 10K KM or one year whichever is earlier, even for their MGO (previously mineral, now semi-synthetic).

[slamnos]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

What I have felt is the smoothness lasts till 8.5-9K kms from oil change after which it is slightly rough.

Since how many KMS have you been using Synth Oil and do you experience it every time after 9k Kms that it starts feeling rough?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by slamnos

Since how many KMS have you been using Synth Oil and do you experience it every time after 9k Kms that it starts feeling rough?

I drive a Ritz VDi (Dec 2010). .

1K, 5K, 10K, 15K, 20K, 25K, 30K ' All were mineral oils used.

30K till date 1,07,366 kms I have been using Synthetic oil. Every oil change I feel that roughness only one the car croses 9K. Not that I'm complaining or such.

Anurag.

[petroguzzler]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I don't think that is a point to worry. 0W40 is fine.

Correct me if I am wrong.

The 0W40 is meant for petrol engines and it would not meet the CH-4 standard. AFAIK the Indica vista Quadrajet which uses the same engine stresses on CH-4 and MB 228.3 grade oil. For synthetic oils for the DDiS, it would be better to use the Mobil Delvac 5W-40.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by petroguzzler

The 0W40 is meant for petrol engines and it would not meet the CH-4 standard. AFAIK the Indica vista Quadrajet which uses the same engine stresses on CH-4 and MB 228.3 grade oil. For synthetic oils for the DDiS, it would be better to use the Mobil Delvac 5W-40.

Thanks for the clarification.

I have been using Castrol 5W40 for my engine. Will be shifting to Shell synthetic from the 1,10,000 kms service.

Anurag.

[quadra]

For my Chevy Spark, the OEM recommended grade is 15w40 (3.2 ltr capacity). I am in the process of gathering the grade, cost & availability of fully synthetic oil. Here is what i have learnt so far:

1. The numbers on the grade refer to the viscosity ratings of the oil. The number before W talks about the cold viscosity (0, 5 are good) and the number after W refers to the hot viscosity (40 is good). This means that grade of 0, 5 will behave better during cold climate starts and at the same time when the engine temp starts increasing, the number 40 (hot viscosity) will help retain the hot viscosity. Phew!!!

2. For my Petrol spark,
Mobil - Looks like they have 0w40 and 5w50 as standard for petrol cars.
Shell recommends, Helix ultra 5w40 OR Helix HX5 15w40.
Castrol recommends Magnatec 10w40

3. When changing from normal to synthetic, take the synthetic oil to the A.S.S and have them replace the oil and oil filter. Advantage proper discard of old oil and genuine spare part - oil filter - being used.

4. Dont go for engine oil flush as it may do chemical locha with your engine.

In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 280,000km that worked fine, but when flushed, failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and ruined the rod bearings

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_b...#ixzz2nfHxfZc1

Queries:
1. How do choose between the 3? Mobil has the highest grade followed by Shell followed by Castrol (Is that castrol fully synthetic?)
2. The online price for 4 ltr Shell & Mobil is around 5000 -5500 rs. Members have posted paying a lesser price when buying it locally. Shell and Castrol have dedicated outlets, what about Mobil1? Where do i source it from locally?
3. Oil change interval? Does this depend on the oil manufacturer?
4. Why top-up?

[Max]

Guys, I want to post my 7 years review about Shell - Helix Ultra Synthetic - 5W 40 oil and how to flush your engine properly. Before I begin, just want to thanks GTO for his advice about 8 years ago for switching to fully synthetic oil.

I used to buy this oil for about Rs.1800 in end of 2006 now it cost about Rs.3800.

Here are my pics from another thread.







Seal. Also notice the plastic seal which is now broken after opening the can. This seal should give you one pointer towards making sure that oil is genuine.




I am using this oil in my Honda city since last 7 years and my car's engine have never faced any problem, so from my experience you may just take my word for it. Today after completing 86000 kms and 9 years my cars engine still runs like a brand new. I have also learned very good things about Mobil1 and it would have been my first choice but its not easily available in my area hence I never used it.

I also recommend occasionally flushing your engine before oil change.

What is engine flush?

Well, I am not an expert when it comes to cars but I will try my best to explain you about engine flush and flushing process. From what I learned from my research is, engine flush washes out bad things from your car engine like detergent washes your cloths in your washing machine and remove all bad carbon deposits / oil deposits from the engine. Usually engine oil and oil filter together does the same job but flush do the same thing in 10 minutes what engine oil do in 1000-1500 kms. So If you are using synthetic oil and changing it at proper intervals you may not flush your engine as it will be not required.

It is specially recommended when you are changing oil after long time or switching from semi synthetic to fully synthetic engine oil.

Note: some time flushing engine in very old cars or in the cars who have done long runs (say above 150,000-200,000 kms) can actually harm your cars engine because old engine parts wear out and develop cracks and gaps due to fiction and these carbon deposits inside car engine keep these cracks and gaps sealed and provide support to internal parts. When you flush your old cars engine it will remove these bad deposits and hence will open up these gaps and cracks damaging your car engine. So proceed with caution in old cars. My car has done 85000 kms and is 9 years old and I have faced no such problems but again my car is very well maintained car and runs daily.

Engine Flush Summary:

1. Engine Flushing Removes Oil Deposit and particles (black thing) from your car engine
2. Cleans car engine and parts from inside
3. Will Keep new oil clean
4. Highly recommended if you are switching from semi synthetic / engine oil to fully synthetic engine oil
5. Highly recommended when you are buying second hand car and changing oil for the first time
6. Highly recommended if you are changing oil after long time

Now since we know what is engine oil flush (at least in lay man terms) let me explain you how to properly flush your engine oil. Without properly flushing technique you will loose all the benefits of engine flush and waste your money. To my surprise most mechanics / service advisers who suggest engine oil flush don't know how to use it properly!

I used wurth engine oil flush in my car and I am very happy with the results. Cost Rs.500/-


How to flush your petrol car engine. I am not sure about at what RPM they flush diesel engine, so this guide is not about diesel cars. Btw, this is how I flush my petrol car's engine and I faced no problem.

1. Warm your car engine for 5-10 minutes (its a must, don't skip on this). If you just drove your car from your home to your garage and your car engine is warm, you may reduce it to 5 minutes.
2. Now shutdown the engine, open the bonnet and add engine oil flush after removing engine oil cap.
3. Crank the engine and run it on idle for 2-3 minutes at 1000rpm
4. After this Run your petrol car engine at 1800-2000 rpm for 10-12 minutes. This is what mechanics / service advisers don't know. They just leave car idle at 800-1000rpm for 2-3 minutes and drain the oil, which is not enough for flush to do its job properly and hence all money spent on oil flush is wasted.
5. Do not, I repeat do not rev your engine above 2000 rpm because engine flush will make engine oil thin and hence will not be able to provide proper protection to your engine against fiction thus can damage your cars engine at high rpm.
6. Do not add flush to your car engine and drive down to your local garage which is 5-15 minutes away. Don't play with your cars engine. I am telling you in advance because there is some one who asked this question in engine oil flushing thread.
7. Shutdown the engine, drain old oil, remove oil filter
8. Leave the car for 5-10 minutes so that every drop of oil comes out from the engine
9. Put the compressed air in the engine through engine oil cap on the top for 2-3 minutes so that remaining oil in the bottom with lots of black slug thing drains out from engine. You will also notice steamy kind of air coming out from engine (remember we ran it hard for 15 minutes so it may be little hot). Don't worry about it, it is just a compressed air coming out from the gaps.
   
   Here is the slug which came out from cars engine!
   
   
10. Add new oil filter and finally add new oil slowly after checking for any leaks

Result:
Here is the oil stick from my CNG Car after 1100 kms run after oil change.



Disclaimer:
Above article is just for knowledge purpose, please consult your cars manufacturer for further advice specially when your vehicle is under warranty.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by quadra

Queries:
1. How do choose between the 3? Mobil has the highest grade followed by Shell followed by Castrol (Is that castrol fully synthetic?)

Between the three I recommend 0W40 as it is the best for petrol engines and I will choose Shell over the test add o live the smoothness of the engine when I use shell.

My preferences:

1) Shell
2) Mobil1
3) Castrol.

Originally Posted by quadra

2. The online price for 4 ltr Shell & Mobil is around 5000 -5500 rs. Members have posted paying a lesser price when buying it locally. Shell and Castrol have dedicated outlets, what about Mobil1? Where do i source it from locally?

Which city are you from BTW? (Using the app so can't find which city)

Please check snapdeal.com as Shell is selling lubricants online (Please check the thread started by SS-Traveller).

Originally Posted by quadra

3. Oil change interval? Does this depend on the oil manufacturer?

Oil change interval is 10K kms (I have been using Synthetic oil from the past 2 years though mine is a diesel)

Originally Posted by quadra

4. Why top-up?

No top-up's please. Keep changing the oil and oil filter every 10K kms.

Anurag.

[quadra]

Originally Posted by Max

[*]Leave the car for 5-10 minutes so that every drop of oil comes out from the engine[*]Put the compressed air in the engine through engine oil cap on the top for 2-3 minutes so that remaining oil in the bottom with lots of black slug thing drains out from engine. You will also notice steamy kind of air coming out from engine (remember we ran it hard for 15 minutes so it may be little hot). Don't worry about it, it is just a compressed air coming out from the gaps.

This is the first time i am hearing about this. Good to know that it works.

Also, I doubt this can be done at the A.S.S. They wouldn't entertain this in the first place. A local mech would be able to do this.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by quadra

This is the first time i am hearing about this. Good to know that it works.

Also, I doubt this can be done at the A.S.S. They wouldn't entertain this in the first place. A local mech would be able to do this.

A.S.S well not agree this is time consuming and labour intensive from their point of view.

A local mechanic, if he knows you then it is possible to do it and mirror he must have a proper compressor for it.

Anurag.

[Sridhar K]

At 20k service of my Swift ZDI, shifted to Shell Mineral at M.A.S.S from Mobil1 which was filled during 10k service at MSM. Having used Mobil1 and Mobil Delvac MX earlier, finding Shell mineral much better in terms of engine smoothness and refinement. The cars odo is currently at 25k and I am planning to change oil (Shell HX6 Diesel) in a day or two.