[jay140261]

I do not seem to find many options for the GL5. I found this LUMAN Gear MAX EP 80W-90 GL-5 5LITRE but says Gear Oil. Can this be used for the differentials though for the Pajero? I am simply going by the fact that it is a GL5 80w 90 as specified in the manual.

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07...ER1ZS0G9&psc=1

[hserus]

Originally Posted by scarlet.fever

I have a elite i20 Petrol 2014 I am currently using mineral oil and plan to move to semi synthetic or synthetic could you please suggest some options.

Petrol - 5w30 a3b4 so try shell HX8 5w30
Diesel - api ch4 or higher so mostly 15w40 mineral, synthetic means Mobil 1 Delvac or Amsoil 5w40 turbo truck both 5w40

[R2D2]

This is the fuel efficiency my car delivers..19.9 kmpl at a steady highway speed of approx. 111 kmph with luggage, 1 passenger, AC on, lots of dynamat and a 12 Kg Focal 10" sub-woofer in the boot.

At 120 kmph, my preferred cruising speed, the efficiency is about 19.6-19.7 on the MID. It is astonishing efficiency for a 1.8 litre petrol engine. This is with a very light foot on the AP. Combined efficiency is about 14.8 kmpl including the travelling to and from city exits and then onto the highway, stops at toll booths etc.

Sharing this here because I believe a large part of this "minor" fuel efficiency gain has been brought about by Amsoil Signature 5W-30. I am impressed. The engine hums at 3-4K RPM.

PS - Pic taken by the wife.

PPS - in top (5th) gear

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by hserus

I take that back about Mobil 1 ESP being the only one in the market. I see that Amsoil 5w30 European Car Formula was just introduced, I've been waiting for it for a long long time.

https://www.amazon.in/AMSOIL-Europea...dp/B07G5DJ7SJ/

API SN; ACEA C3; VW 504, 507 ;BMW LL-04; MB 229.51; CHRYSLER MS 11106

The latest BMW / Merc / VW specs for petrol and diesel. Should be a decent replacement for any car that needs a 5w30 a5/b5 oil as well eg Ford.

I believe I can use this oil for my Scross 1.6 which requires 0w30/ ACEA C2.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by rakesh_r

I believe I can use this oil for my Scross 1.6 which requires 0w30/ ACEA C2.

C2 is a bit different from C3 in terms of HTHS but many support both. This other oil does for sure - https://www.amazon.in/Liqui-Moly-Mol...dp/B078G7N3TB/ which is 5w30 or this other 5w30 https://www.amazon.in/IDEMITSU-SN-A5...dp/B07HK6KYRV/

You should be able to get away with 5w30 C2 in most areas of India except where there's extremely cold weather

0w30 ACEA C2 - I have a feeling the only thing you'll find is Merc and BMW OEM oils. I doubt Maruti MGO oils have this spec.

ACEA C2 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s.

ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by hserus

0w30 ACEA C2 - I have a feeling the only thing you'll find is Merc and BMW OEM oils. I doubt Maruti MGO oils have this spec.

Many thanks, currently the one supplied by Maruti is made by Petronas which is 0w30 ACEA-C2.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by rakesh_r

Many thanks, currently the one supplied by Maruti is made by Petronas which is 0w30 ACEA-C2.

You might as well use it then. Though a 5w30 might actually be better in this hot weather, at the cost of slightly less fuel economy.

[Gansan]

I feel it is always better to use engine oils with the same specs, or very close to what the car maker suggests. What we generally do is ensure the higher number matches the spec, but we don't mind if the lower number is less than the spec. My car's manual specifies 20W40 as standard. I buy 10w40, 5w40 etc. Some buy even 0w40.

I feel this may not be an issue if the vehicle runs for certain minimum distance where the oil quickly heats up and attains the higher viscosity number. But if it is used for fairly short runs most of the time, I wonder if the lubrication under such conditions will be sufficient.

For example I was using the 10W40 Helix HX7 for the car for a very long time, and recently switched to 5W40 Helix Ultra. And for the bike (Which also needs 20W40), I have been using the 10W40 Helix AX7 and recently the 5W40 Helix Ultra bike oil.

Now my car runs for at least 10-15 KM at a stretch whenever it is taken out. I have not noticed any difference in engine note of the car. But for the past 18 months, the bike is used for short runs of about 2-4 Km only, and I feel the engine note is not smooth anymore even though the oil change is done at the same intervals. This issue was not there when the bike was regularly used for office commute (14 km one way).

[GTO]

Mobil 1 shares this link of Amazon. Says now officially available on the platform. Sold by Cloudtail.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Gansan

I feel this may not be an issue if the vehicle runs for certain minimum distance where the oil quickly heats up and attains the higher viscosity number. But if it is used for fairly short runs most of the time, I wonder if the lubrication under such conditions will be sufficient.

Engine oil is pretty slow to get up to operating temp of 100 C. That's why vehicles experience max wear and tear and oil deterioration with cold engines plus short runs.

I speak for myself here, but I would always take a small commuter bike (scooter/motorcycle) for a short ride around the block to pick up groceries or run errands. Never my cars. Colder the ambient the worse the effect of short runs. I do not use my cars unless the run is at least 3-4 km one way in our tropical weather and in slow city traffic where the engine has time, at low speeds/low revs, to reach operating temps. I also idle the car for at least 60 seconds to get the oil flowing freely in the morning.

Now my car runs for at least 10-15 KM at a stretch whenever it is taken out. I have not noticed any difference in engine note of the car. But for the past 18 months, the bike is used for short runs of about 2-4 Km only, and I feel the engine note is not smooth anymore even though the oil change is done at the same intervals. This issue was not there when the bike was regularly used for office commute (14 km one way).

I dont think the bike needs to run for 10-15 km. Even a few km should heat up the engine sufficiently, depending on which bike it is. I would treat a large liquid cooled bike much like a car while a small bike say a Honda scooter or 100-150 cc air cooled bike would be used without worry. There's a dude I know who uses his Triumph Classic, a Street Twin, for errands but then to each his own.

[Gansan]

^^ I didn't use any equipment to check the bike oil temperature of course! The bike in question is Splendor, and if the run is 3 km or so, the gearbox remains cool enough to touch. It becomes too hot to touch only at 5 km! Even though the sump holds just about a litre of oil. And for cars, 10-15 km on the highway is not much, but inside city it is definitely enough to heat up the oil.

Air cooled bike engines can take a lot of punishment. I was just quoting the bike example to make a point about cars under similar conditions. I know many people who use their cars to get dropped at the nearest suburban station. The same car goes to pick them up from the station in the evening. The total round trip one time being 4 km max. A Senior High Court lawyer I know even uses his Audi Q7 for the same purpose! Those cars run longer distances only during holidays and weekends.

What I had in mind was, perhaps, cars which do frequent short trips may be better off with a higher winter number. Provided the OEM recommended oil is similar.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Gansan

What I had in mind was, perhaps, cars which do frequent short trips may be better off with a higher winter number. Provided the OEM recommended oil is similar.

Sure, if you believe a slightly thicker oil should offer better protection at startup in warm weather. But then also consider it will be a tad bit slower to circulate to the top of the engine i.e. valve train.

But then OTOH..why not use a straight mineral i.e. non multigrade like SAE 40 or 50 if your car engine can take it? Consult the manual for a definitive guide.

[Gansan]

^^ I mentioned it because most people in the thread didn't seem to consider this aspect while choosing synthetic oils, all of which have either zero or very low winter numbers. No issue for my car as it goes out only during weekends, for longish trips. For the bike I have decided to switch to Helix mineral 15w40 from the next oil change.

I have tried to source straight SAE 40 oil recommended for the compressor motor of our bore well but it is difficult to find. Even in PSU fuel stations. So I just use the leftover of whatever engine oil I buy for the car.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Gansan

^^ I mentioned it because most people in the thread didn't seem to consider this aspect while choosing synthetic oils, all of which have either zero or very low winter numbers. No issue for my car as it goes out only during weekends, for longish trips. For the bike I have decided to switch to Helix mineral 15w40 from the next oil change.

Yes, most people, and when I say most it means the common car owner (T-BHPians are not the norm) doesn't really bother about it. Come to think of it why should they? It is the car manufacturer's problem to think of a large majority of use cases, environmental conditions, maintenance, fuel quality and even cultural norms (for e.g. Indians love to overload vehicles, are shoddy with maintenance routines etc) that is available in different markets across the world and design or modify engines/vehicles suitably. Customers are advised on how to maintain their cars in the owners manual and that should be the only book they ought to refer to.

I have tried to source straight SAE 40 oil recommended for the compressor motor of our bore well but it is difficult to find. Even in PSU fuel stations. So I just use the leftover of whatever engine oil I buy for the car.

So you have a diesel engine powered borewell pump? Ask the manufacturer or dealer to supply the right grade of plain SAE 40 oil for this purpose. They may have 1-to-1 deals with oil PSUs to supply this lube.

[Gansan]

No, electrical motor powered compressor pump actually. We need to fill about half a litre of SAE 40 oil, and top up periodically by checking an inspection window. The compressor unit has a bore and piston I think.