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-   -   ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifying-car/17917-article-synthetic-oil-vs-mineral-oil-366.html)

How do we figure out the min/max levels? Is it provided on the oil sump?

What would be the min/max oil level for Swift VDi?

Yes they are marked on the oil sump.

Your car's manual will tell you how much oil is required to top up to max on a completely dry sump, so in practice you will need a few hundred ml less to refill your car.

Hello guys, I'm hopefully getting myself a Honda City 2012 facelift model tomorrow.

It has run some 17xxx KMs.

Can you all please suggest me a good synthetic oil I should change to when I lay my hands on her?

I have also bought the STP Engine Flush, to be used.

Please advise

5w40 Shell Helix Ultra or any other A3/B4 5w40 will do very well indeed. Just change oil, filters etc on a regular basis - and at this stage in its life, unless you see a company service history of this being done recently, drain and replace the coolant, brake fluid and gear oil.

You shouldn't need any engine flush, Honda normally uses a good semi synthetic oil that's quite OK for engine performance.

I've to get the 3rd year service for my Honda Jazz cvt. The service has to be competed by mid of June to avoid warranty lapse. Due to my Interceptor and thanks to lockdown, car has barely covered 3k kms in 8 months. They have extended service interval by 2 months to avoid warranty and car has covered 40k till date

I saw a new synthetic version 2.0 oil mentioned in their website. Do you know which make is it and what is the spec difference between the new and previous version

The oil change for my car was done during first week of July during annual service and I used synthetic Shell Helix Ultra 5W40. Car has done only about 4k km after the change. Especially with the lock down since March it has only been doing occasional maintenance runs.

Next service is due in a month. Since I don't want to take it for service under the circumstances, will it be Ok to delay the oil change by a couple of months perhaps? How long can it be safely postponed?

Petrol marutis - as soon as the oil starts to go more than a dark brown change it out. You should be able to safely run it for upto a year, but if the car has been parked or doing very short runs for a longer time, less of an issue. Change after a couple of months no hurry.

This is a 0w20 https://www.dream-automotive.com/pro...1-litre-type-r

Maybe not the best of oils for a hot climate like India. Stick to 5w40 for your iVTEC.

Hello, everyone.

I own a 2011 Honda city (1.5 L I-VTEC petrol). It has about 95,000 kms on the odometer and the car has an engine oil change due in August-September, 2020.
I have been sending my car to the Honda service center and they have been looking after the oil changes, etc.

I was not present in the city for 3 months due to work and my driver topped up the engine oil with a 20W40 (Motul mineral) grade oil, there were no issues as such.

As the car has aged, some of the smoothness of the engine has reduced and it has become even more noticeable after this Corona lockdown made sure that the car was not in use. The car starts up and revs to about 3000-3500 rpm which was not the case earlier. The engine braking seems to have become stronger than before, which suggests to me that the internal friction in the engine has gone up.

A friend recently suggested that I use the Nulon engine treatment oil (350 ml) when I get the oil change next.

I have two questions?
1) Should I change my engine oil grade?
2) Should I use the Nulon engine treatment oil?

Thanks.

In your case, due to the car's old age - don't do any treatments.

Drain out all the engine oil, change to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 and take it on some empty road and gun the engine a bit.

Your post is not a bit clear, are you saying you started seeing this friction issue right after the oil change, or after 3 months of lock down or both? And by the way the idling rpm has increased you say, so why would you suspect there is a friction.

My wild guess is that it has nothing to do with the new oil that you have put.

Idle rpm you would look at decarbonisation, you’d look at dirty fuel so pour in a fuel system cleaner, you’d look for a dirty oxygen sensor though that’d likely give you a check engine light. Is the engine overheating as well if so drain and replace the coolant if that’s not been done for a few years.

In any case after draining and refilling oil and fluids, plug in an obd reader / have the dealer scan your car for errors if the issue persists.

Thank you for your reply.

Is the Shell helix 5W40 oil any different from the Mobil 5W40 oil? The price difference between the two engine oils for 4L is about ₹2000.

I am posting the amazon links for both.

Mobil

https://www.amazon.in/Mobil-Super-Fo...omotive&sr=1-1

Shell

https://www.amazon.in/Shell-Helix-55...omotive&sr=1-2

There were no issues after the oil change. The oil change happened about 9-10 months ago.

The problems have started after this lockdown period ended, I took the car out for a drive yesterday and noticed these problems.

The start up rpm is about 3000-3500 rpm but then it settles to about 1000-1500 rpm which didn't happen before.
I suspect there is an increase in internal friction because there is an increase in the amount of engine braking.

Nothing to do with engine braking. Change the oil - you’ve run the car for much longer than you should with mineral topped up in it. Check the rest of what I said as well.

My 2016 fiat avventura 1.3 mjd has clocked 90340 km.Which semi synthetic engine oil is best suited for it .I have been using OEM selenia 5w40 wr all along and have kept the drain interval to 10000 kms

Any standard 5w40 A3/B4 oil will work fine. Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 is excellent. Or if you are able to get this Amsoil, nothing like it. https://www.amazon.in/AMSOIL-Europea.../dp/B01DETS2WQ