[bullrun87]

Originally Posted by akshay4587

Best amongst all other Mobil oils on sale here; Came to a conclusion by comparing their ratings;and overall reviews over internet.
When i said performance over 2L kms; i didn't go around measuring clearances and other parameters.
I was just quoting the usual NVH levels and engine behavior.

It will never be possible for us to technically examine engine oil quality, we can only consider reviews and opinions of other users. I have used readily available synthetic oils usually castrol edge, shell helix ultra and mobil one in my cars and did not seem to notice any discernible difference between them.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bullrun87

It will never be possible for us to technically examine engine oil quality, we can only consider reviews and opinions of other users. I have used readily available synthetic oils usually castrol edge, shell helix ultra and mobil one in my cars and did not seem to notice any discernible difference between them.

Too true, my main problem with opinions on internet forums on this topics is that it is all just that, opinion and very rarely based on real meaningfull data and facts. Personal experience, no matter on how many cars or miles, doesn't add up to anything statistical significant.

Fact is that very few problems get reported on car forums due to problems with oil! So the number of actual problems seems to be inversely proportional to the number of "oil related post".

Jeroen

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by akshay4587

Pretty Sure that Xenex is trying to pass on some other oil as Mobil 1 5W50 since it never came in a 3.5L pack.Its either 4L or 1L.
I tried looking around 5W50; but was not able to find it.
Finally settled for 0W40 at 950/L.
I would recommend that you go in for 0W40.

You were right. I got a 4 Liter bottle for Rs 1050 a liter. The cap was sealed tight, so I guess it is genuine stock, though the date is of 2013 June.

Here are the pictures:

[bullrun87]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Fact is that very few problems get reported on car forums due to problems with oil! So the number of actual problems seems to be inversely proportional to the number of "oil related post".

Jeroen

Yes that's true, most of the oil related problems I have seen reported is that the car was run for some time without oil . I have neither seen nor heard of any problem which has arisen due to or can be specifically attributed to the use of comparatively lower quality mineral oil or synthetic oil that was not made by exxon or shell. If such problems do occur then perhaps they happen after the car has run hundreds of thousands of kilometers. As far as I am concerned it is very difficult to prove conclusively that a specific engine problem occured because the owner used a specific engine oil. As long as your oil carries vendor recommended specifications You cant prove that your engine troubles started because of it.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

So basically your car ran fine over 200.000 kilometers and you had no problems relating to (apparent) oil.

Truth be told, any car engine, properly looked after, properly maintained in accordance with the manufacturers specifications and using oil in accordance with the recommended specification will all run 2L ams without issues relating to oil.

Jeroen

The difference between Delvac 1 and other oils i have used is the additional smoothness ,reduction in engine harshness and free revving nature of engine.

Like you said engine will run 2L kms on any oil of correct grade and change interval.

[straight6]

Can someone please suggest fully synthetic gear oil options we have here?

I have access to mineral Mobil, Shell, F1 and GS Caltex (80W-90) apart from the regular ones. Recommended grade is 75W-90.

[sgiitk]

@straight6; Watch out for Synth gear oil. Skoda DSGs have been shifted to semi/mineral due to failures which were traced to the use of synth!

[straight6]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

@straight6; Watch out for Synth gear oil. Skoda DSGs have been shifted to semi/mineral due to failures which were traced to the use of synth!

Thanks sir but mines a manual box so I doubt it'll be a problem?

[kap04]

I had changed the oil in my Honda City to Mobil1 0w-40 in Aug 2013 , and till date i have ran only 7000 km's after the oil change.

Is it recommended to change the oil as its been a year now?

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by straight6

Thanks sir but mines a manual box so I doubt it'll be a problem?

I was just pointing out that a synth may not always be the best.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

I was just pointing out that a synth may not always be the best.

Good point! Always stick religiously to the manufacturers recommendation. Check your owners manual. Don't believe what is out on these forums. We will all gladly hand out free advise, but nobody is going to pick up your bill, if you ruin your engine using the wrong oil!

Jeroen

[sgiitk]

Let me repeat for the umpteenth time:

Mobil is specified as mmWnn. mm is the cold oil, and you can safely go below the specs, ie thinner, W is Winter Grade, nn is the hot oil do not go below the specs. Thus 0W40 is safe in place of 5W30. Also, we have the quality specified as SF ... SN for petrol. Grades below SJ are obsolete. Diesels are Cx. Here again use the specified or better grade.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

Let me repeat for the umpteenth time:

Mobil is specified as mmWnn. mm is the cold oil, and you can safely go below the specs, ie thinner, W is Winter Grade, nn is the hot oil do not go below the specs. Thus 0W40 is safe in place of 5W30. Also, we have the quality specified as SF ... SN for petrol. Grades below SJ are obsolete. Diesels are Cx. Here again use the specified or better grade.

I would be cautious of even going below the mm rating. Especially at cold startup proper lubrication is difficult. How do you know a thinner oil would protect properly? Most engine wear and tear comes from those few minutes when everything is still cold!

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Most engine wear and tear comes from those few minutes when everything is still cold!

So thinner is better, circulates faster. Remember mmWnn is essentially mmW with viscosity improvers which prevent the oil from getting thinner than nn when hot. The risk of metal to metal rubbing damage is when the oil is too thin when hot. Hence nn should never be breached on the downside.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

So thinner is better, circulates faster. Remember mmWnn is essentially mmW with viscosity improvers which prevent the oil from getting thinner than nn when hot. The risk of metal to metal rubbing damage is when the oil is too thin when hot. Hence nn should never be breached on the downside.

No, thinner is not better, at some point thinner gets worse. As most oil pumps are positive displacement type thinner doesn't circulate faster perse. Stickto what the manufacturer specifies and don't believe what people say on car forums when it comes to oil