[drjones]

Hi, The bull has run in 1200 Kms. Got a prob, the vibration has increased to a noticable extent. It is present at all RPM and speeds, including idle. Its more noticable in the handlbar than the foot rests. But, there is absolutely no increase in noise or any other new sounds. Sugestions please.
Dr.Jones.

[navpreet318]

Loosen up the engine mounts a bit.Fire up the engine.Rev it a bit and then shut it down.Now tighten the mounts back.Might solve the problem.This is an unexplained/illogical method to reduce the vibs which has an incredible success rate.hehehe.

[Randhawa]

You are such a party pooper Navpreet That was my little secret I had for Dr Jones.

Doc let her vibrate more and I'll explain the procedure in detail.

[drjones]

Thanks Navpreet and Randhawa, I'll let her vibrate more for some more time as you had mentioned. Just Hope my joints don't get as loose as my brain ;-).
Dr.Jones

[drjones]

Hi Randhawa, going on the running in. But, the vibrations 100+ is is not quite bearable, waiting patiently.
Dr.Jones

[Randhawa]

1. Put the bike on centre stand, loosen the three bolts in front of the engine/one in bottom/ one near the battery cover and another at the top which holds the engine support bar at rear tank mounting.

2. Start the bike assuming your bike is pre warmed up, rev it at max for 4 seconds and let it idle for 15 seconds.

3. Repeat step 2 three more time.

4. On fourth time let it idle for a minute then switch off the engine.

5. Tighten up the bolts and do the tank rear bolt at last.

Tried and tested method by me and it should reduce vibrations by at least 60% for the first time around. You will have to do it again once you start doing 115+ regularly after 2k at around 2.5k. Avoid doing 100+ for more then few seconds. I know the urge but control Doc. Give me safe 2k then ride as devilish as you like.

Patience is Virtue my friend.

[drjones]

Got it done bro, just one thing, there were only two bolts in the front, the other was just holding the clamp. Dramatic results, though 100+ is not comfortable to my expectation, now , its smoother so that I can hold for a while. But, all this is just guess work since Iam not crossing 100+ for more than a few secs as you had mentioned. Engine is becoming a gem, less noise and smoother. Changed the oil to satisfy myself, but after seeing the condition of the oil and the amount of metal dust stuck to the magnets, felt it was worth it.Thanks.
Dr.Jones

[Randhawa]

Vibrations will settle down once you start opening up the engine. Metal dust will decrease after 5-7k. The one bolt you mention was just holding up the clamps is actually holding up the engine to the frame as engine is a stressed member of the frame so if you left that out then you are a bad boy!

Make sure the handle is not to loose and forks tight. Getting it checked wont hurt as they can increase of decrease vibrations. Do ride another C5 with same mileage if you can, will give you an idea of vibrations on a UCE. Crank is just over 11kg so you are bound to get some vibrations on a long stroke engine.

[drjones]

Hi Mate, thought about the bolt and left it, that means only half work done, right? I don't mind some vibrations, actually Iam very comfortable at 90kmph, maybe because Iam running-in the engine at that speed and the bull is getting set to it. Should I check/change the spark plug? cause , I feel the initial response at a lower RPM is a wee bit sluggish sometimes, just hesitates for a sec and then moves. If so, howz Iridium ones for a CL500. Thanks.
Dr.Jones

[Randhawa]

Yup now you got do the whole shebang again to see how dramatic it turns out this time

Response lag is normal in every EFI thingy, we just don't feel it in cars due to multiple cylinders, water cooled and suspension setup. Get the accelerator cable checked I think you might have a bit of slack in there so you are feeling the slow response. It's also due to the ECU and you should pester RE to get the ECU swapped with new remapped one. I have come to know that some people are confusing a ECU checkup by RE as a remap but RE is not doing any remaps and such thing is not possible due to the remapping socket not present on our bikes. They have genuinely swapped ECU's of some lucky few who have pestered RE to death and thats it. If you can pester RE to swap your ECU then maybe in near future they will swap yours too when they get few more.

Dont go into the iridium plugs and all, total waste of money rather get the Bosch Platinum and thats it. Explained it all in the C5 thread.

[drjones]

Hi , I'll do the whole process again, no problem, anyway its gonna be worth it. How am I supposed to know I have the old ECU and not the new one? any ID marks?
Dr.Jones

[Randhawa]

RE has yet to fit the re-mapped ECU's into the production versions so you still have the older version.

[drjones]

Randhawa, is it worth it to pester the RE to get the new ECU ? or is the difference is only mild ? Cause if you say so, I'll pester them soo much, that, they either have to give me new one or close down the plant ;-). Just joking.

[Randhawa]

Worth every pestering phone call and emails to customer service along with all the jerking and black smoke issue.

[drjones]

‪CL500 after 2000 kms‬‏ - YouTube

This is my bull after a meticulous running in { Randhawa's advice followed } + Iridium plugs + ECU remap { Seperate story ;-) }. Please compare with the video on the first page and give your valuable suggestions, I'll give my feedback later. Thanks.
Dr.Jones