[tj123]

I would suggest the following simple checks points .
1. Check the engine oil level. Ensure that optimum range low & high oil level is not good.
2. If engine oil is low that means engine oil is finding its way inside the combustion chamber resulting in bluish white smoke
3. If oil is burning then check the piston rings for leakages , replacement is the only option.
4.Try to stick to manufacturer recommended oil only, inferior quality oil can severely damage the engine.

[EssYouWe]

You mentioned the specs to be 15W50 for the Motul 3000T in your first post. Are you sure if the oil is 20W50 only?

This is the Motul product line: http://www.motul.co.jp/eg/product_li...4stroke17.html

[Spitfire]

Originally Posted by para_7k

My doubt is on the Genuineness!

From my experience Motul oil has the highest number of fakes floating around of all the oils.

If I was you and I had that doubt, I could be draining the oil first thing before brushing my teeth.

[para_7k]

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

You mentioned the specs to be 15W50 for the Motul 3000T in your first post. Are you sure if the oil is 20W50 only?

This is the Motul product line: MOTUL

Bajaj's Recommended spec is 20W50. The one that I bought is 15W50.

No big deal.

Originally Posted by Spitfire

From my experience Motul oil has the highest number of fakes floating around of all the oils.

If I was you and I had that doubt, I could be draining the oil first thing before brushing my teeth.

Thanks for that. I'm not experienced enough to find out from the can or from the look/feel of the oil.

The bike has been lying idle after I noticed these symptoms and I just did not find enough time to visit a mechanic.


This is the first job in my list for the evening. If I cannot see one, I'm going to change the oil myself!

[Spitfire]

Originally Posted by para_7k

Thanks for that. I'm not experienced enough to find out from the can or from the look/feel of the oil.

The fake packaging is of such high order that not many (including me) will ever make out looking at one.

Even the rubbing between the thumb and index finger wont help.

Best thing to do is find out who the distributor for Motul is for your town. I remember seeing a topic somewhere here on those lines. Maybe you can search on it here.

Order only from there. The distributor in Bangalore used to deliver the oil to my doorstep. I don't have an idea whether it is done now.

This is the first job in my list for the evening. If I cannot see one, I'm going to change the oil myself!

Be careful though. Oil for an engine is like the blood for our body. If you are doing it for the first time take all precautions.

[sagarpadaki]

One way of identifying original motul is that they have a pull up flexible hose to pour the oil and this hose can be capped n can be pushed back in .The duplicate motul ones wont have these!!

[dhanushs]

I guess the best way is to buy directly from the distributor, as spitfire suggested. I ALWAYS do the same while buying oil for my bike.

[EssYouWe]

Originally Posted by para_7k

Bajaj's Recommended spec is 20W50. The one that I bought is 15W50.

No big deal.

Of course it is a big deal. Please stick to the recommended spec.

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

Of course it is a big deal. Please stick to the recommended spec.

It is NOT a big deal. For example if the specified oil is 20W40, we are PERFECTLY safe so long as the lower number is 20 or less, and the upper number is 40 or higher. This applies universally to all vehicles and Pulsar should be no exception.

[EssYouWe]

I would beg to differ here. The lower number is indicative of the viscosity of oil at low temperatures. While this loses relevance a few minutes after startup, Indian bikes with their crude clearances are best left undisturbed.
I know of people experiencing clutch slippage after using the incorrect oil. While it may not be a very big deal, I would still consider it as the obvious reason for the oil burning.

[Gansan]

^^clutch slippage can occur only if a car oil is used for a bike where the engine and gear oil is the same.

[EssYouWe]

Slippage can be caused in any wet-clutch setup where the oil is not according to the recommended specs. The oil that the fellow had used, *was* JASO-MA certified for wet-clutch usage.

But then again, it boils down to how much faith you have in the recommended specs and your own oil seals.

[DRIV3R]

Gansan is right. It's not about the grades. I've myself used various grades on my Pulsar. Thicker ones during summers and lighter ones during winters. That's the way it should be. A 5W50/10W50 should be good enough all thru the year.

And Motul's official distributor in Chennai is near MIOT hospitals. Get your stock from him, you can get it for almost the wholesale price.

[torquecurve]

When you change your oil grade you can change to a lower/higher number on the lower temp number (xxW30 to XW30) but as far as possible dont touch the top number.

White exhaust smoke and smoke from the oil inlet could also be caused by oil entering the top of the piston with the fuel. Check for leaking O rings or gaskets. Oil is not designed to burn resulting in improper combustion and so white smoke.

Also some oils have higher detergent capability than others. If the oil you switched to has higher detergence then it will clear away gunk which is on some parts of your engine. The issue here is your regular never cleaned it and so your engine is used to it, many times rubber seals are scuffed but still maintain good seals. With the higher detergence this will clear off the gunk which could lead to gaps and so you see this. If this gap happens inside your cylinder, between the piston and block it could lead to fuel entering the oil (marginal amounts) which because the oil is hot will evaporate immediately leading to hissing sound from the filling cap and silencer.

Check for this.

[para_7k]

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

Of course it is a big deal. Please stick to the recommended spec.

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

Slippage can be caused in any wet-clutch setup where the oil is not according to the recommended specs. The oil that the fellow had used, *was* JASO-MA certified for wet-clutch usage.

But then again, it boils down to how much faith you have in the recommended specs and your own oil seals.

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

I would beg to differ here. The lower number is indicative of the viscosity of oil at low temperatures. While this loses relevance a few minutes after startup, Indian bikes with their crude clearances are best left undisturbed.
I know of people experiencing clutch slippage after using the incorrect oil. While it may not be a very big deal, I would still consider it as the obvious reason for the oil burning.

You may be right in your own way but I did not want to get too technical.

IMHO, being a twin spark engine, the Pulsar engines become hot very quick and this grade should not make much difference (at least to me!)


Thanks for the pointers guys. As of now, I have drained the oil and replaced with Bajaj OE 20W50 which I bought from an ASC. It was a 20 minutes DIY.

I'll have to see how it goes and will look for the next steps if the symptoms persist.