[mobike008]

1900kms Update

Last week, I noticed that my bike's engine rev was on much higher side than normal when in neutral. I immediately checked if the CHOKE was on? It was not.

I had to rush somewhere so rode the bike as it is and was feeling uncomfortable as at traffic signal, the engine rev seemed totally out of place as it was revving like crazy

Also, noticed a slight drip of petrol from the black pipe on the left side of the engine bay when bike's in neutral.

I parked the bike at a friends home and we had to go somewhere in his car. When we returned in evening, I noticed my bike was punctured.

Didnt have patience, took an auto back home and came back next morning and pushed the heavy bike for atleast 2kms to a puncture repair shop

Took out the wheel, saw there were 4 small punctures in the tube ( Bajaj Pulsar's tube which was also not a branded one). Being a sunday, after a couple of hours they sourced a original CEAT tyre (100/90/18) and charged me Rs.500 for tyre and Rs.50 for fitment. Is the price of tyre reasonable?

This would be 3rd tube in 1900kms of ownership which sounds totally preposterous. Took the bike to service center and they just plugged the pipe back and did something which i didnt notice and engine was back to its normal rev now. Seems like some kids fingered the fuel pipe in my apartment complex.

What is the correct air-pressure for CL-500?

Currently, I am on 40psi for back and 35psi for front. Would love to know some ideas on how to safeguard from punctures as reparing one on the BULL is really exhausting exercise

[nareshtrao]

Originally Posted by mobike008

1900kms Update

What is the correct air-pressure for CL-500?

Currently, I am on 40psi for back and 35psi for front. Would love to know some ideas on how to safeguard from punctures as reparing one on the BULL is really exhausting exercise

Max 30 - 32 in rear and 22 - 24 in the front wheel. Ensure you have correct tube and not a stand-by of different size.

[bblost]

Mobike. I never use a patched tube on my bike.

If it has a flat, I get the bike home and replace the tube with a new one.
I think a 19" tube (Dunlop) cost me under 300 when I last bought one.

Check if there is a nail or something inside the tire. Causing so many punctures in such a short time. Its not normal nor is it acceptable.

Its very easy to remove the rear wheel. Its far easier than pushing the bike.

[Torquedo]

Originally Posted by mobike008

This would be 3rd tube in 1900kms of ownership which sounds totally preposterous. Took the bike to service center and they just plugged the pipe back and did something which i didnt notice and engine was back to its normal rev now. Seems like some kids fingered the fuel pipe in my apartment complex.

What is the correct air-pressure for CL-500?

Currently, I am on 40psi for back and 35psi for front. Would love to know some ideas on how to safeguard from punctures as reparing one on the BULL is really exhausting exercise

Mobike -

Pardon me, but you are way beyond the permissible limits on the tyre pressure, the owners manual categorically states the following:

Solo:

Front: 20 Rear: 30

Pillion:

Front: 22 Rear: 32

I can safely assume that the tyre pressure is the major cause for your punctures. Get it right and do let us know if it helps !!

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by nareshtrao

Max 30 - 32 in rear and 22 - 24 in the front wheel. Ensure you have correct tube and not a stand-by of different size.

I was using the stand-off tube as during a ride on highway my original tube was punctured with a nail right through and through and used the Bajaj Pulsar tube as there was no other option.

This puncture happened within 500kms of riding on that stand-off tube

Originally Posted by bblost

Mobike. I never use a patched tube on my bike.

I too dont beileve in it. This tube as mentioned above was brand new though a stand-off one and of non-brand as i got it from a puncture shop somewhere on outskirts of city on a sunday afternoon

Originally Posted by bblost

If it has a flat, I get the bike home and replace the tube with a new one.I think a 19" tube (Dunlop) cost me under 300 when I last bought one.

Yeah, I think I will keep a spare brand new tube with me at all times. What's the best brand on a BULL? I am back on bikes after a long period so i am totally out of information on these basic aspects

Originally Posted by bblost

Check if there is a nail or something inside the tire. Causing so many punctures in such a short time. Its not normal nor is it acceptable.

It was the first inspection and checked the tyre thoroughly and found no nail ( 1st time puncture had a long one).

Installed the new tube after dousing the insides of the tyre with lots of talcum powder.

Originally Posted by bblost

Its very easy to remove the rear wheel. Its far easier than pushing the bike.

I am too lazy on these aspects. Forget about removing the bike tyre. I dont even know how to change a flat in a car

Originally Posted by Torquedo

Mobike -

Pardon me, but you are way beyond the permissible limits on the tyre pressure, the owners manual categorically states the following:

Solo:

Front: 20 Rear: 30

Pillion:

Front: 22 Rear: 32

I kept just high pressure on insistence of puncture shop fellow as he said better to keep higher pressure during summer

Anyways, i normally keep 35 in rear and 30 in front. Is that too also on higher side?

As wifey rides the bike more than occassionally, so what should be a good mix of pressure rating to choose considering its a solo-cum-pillion ( 32-R, 25F)?

Btw, last evening when we both were riding, when the bike goes over speed-breakers or humps, there is a noisy creaky sound comes from below my seat.

Is that the springs whining out in pain due to weight of the rider?

[Torquedo]

Originally Posted by mobike008

As wifey rides the bike more than occassionally, so what should be a good mix of pressure rating to choose considering its a solo-cum-pillion ( 32-R, 25F)?

Not more than 24 on the Front and 33 at the Rear.

Happy Motoring !!

[indian21r]

Originally Posted by mobike008

1900kms Update
Took out the wheel, saw there were 4 small punctures in the tube ( Bajaj Pulsar's tube which was also not a branded one). Being a sunday, after a couple of hours they sourced a original CEAT tyre (100/90/18) and charged me Rs.500 for tyre and Rs.50 for fitment. Is the price of tyre reasonable?

What is the correct air-pressure for CL-500?

Currently, I am on 40psi for back and 35psi for front. Would love to know some ideas on how to safeguard from punctures as reparing one on the BULL is really exhausting exercise

40 psi will give you a very very bumpy ride and you can feel every pothole. When I had CL500 I used to ride 22-24 front 30-32 at the back depending on City roads or Highway. Tubes costed me Rs 300 for local make a year back. In spite of branded tube and inflation, Rs 500 may still be a little higher.

[avisidhu]

Originally Posted by mobike008

I kept just high pressure on insistence of puncture shop fellow as he said better to keep higher pressure during summer

I'm sorry but isn't that opposite of what we are supposed to be doing? From what I know, we should try to keep tyre pressure 1-2 psi lower than usual during peak summer months, no?

[theMAG]

Mobike, the cost you paid for the tube seems to be on the higher side. When I purchased a new MRF tube a few weeks back, it cost me Rs 300 direct from the MRF showroom.
Also, I suggest you move away from using patched tubes owing to the zero-tolerance RE bikes have for weak tubes. Best to replace with a brand new tube upon puncture.

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by avisidhu

I'm sorry but isn't that opposite of what we are supposed to be doing? From what I know, we should try to keep tyre pressure 1-2 psi lower than usual during peak summer months, no?

Ofcourse, I understand the relation that PSI should higher in cold weather. I just heeded to his reasoning at that time thinking he may know better from real world circumstances as he was insisting on 40PSI

Anyways, it will be reverted to 33PSI-R, 24PSI-F shortly

Originally Posted by theMAG

Mobike, the cost you paid for the tube seems to be on the higher side. When I purchased a new MRF tube a few weeks back, it cost me Rs 300 direct from the MRF showroom.
Also, I suggest you move away from using patched tubes owing to the zero-tolerance RE bikes have for weak tubes. Best to replace with a brand new tube upon puncture.

Thanks Maggie. If you read my previous posts, I never used a patched tube till date. I have changed 2 tubes for 2 punctures that i faced till date.

I am currently on my 3rd tube. At this rate, I should tie up with a wholesale dealer for bulk tube purchases in future

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by mobike008

I am currently on my 3rd tube. At this rate, I should tie up with a wholesale dealer for bulk tube purchases in future

Imran, go tubeless on your current rims. No need to change to alloys unless the OE rims are prone to damage easily. Or try slime puncture sealant.

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by n_aditya

Imran, go tubeless on your current rims. No need to change to alloys unless the OE rims are prone to damage easily. Or try slime puncture sealant.

Aditya, seems like you were dreaming of Imran while posting this message

OE rims have several spokes and therefore, cannot be used for a tubeless tyre. If I need to go tubeless, I need to change the rim to an alloy type which will cost roughly 5K-6K.

I think that will spoil the overall classic look of the bike, IMO

[G_AmbyMad]

Hi there, any rides planned anytime soon? I have a friend's Classic 500 lying with me for sometime and would love to join up.

Cheers,

G

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by G_AmbyMad

Hi there, any rides planned anytime soon? I have a friend's Classic 500 lying with me for sometime and would love to join up.

We had a few recently. Do drop me a PM with your name and contact info, will call you when the next one happens which is normally on a saturday or sunday

FE Update

I have been constantly monitoring the FE from last 3 tankfuls and I am happy to report that I am consistently getting the following which was calculated tankful-to-tankful basis with stop-go-stop city traffic conditions to a large extent

Kms from last tankful : 275kms
Litres topped up : 9.80 Litres
Fuel Efficiency : 27.75kmpl

I normally top-up when the warning light starts blinking on-off-on rather consistently and dont wait for the yellow light to remain on constantly.

At this juncture, I get approximately 9.80 or 9.80 litres of petrol for the 15 litre tank which makes me wonder whether 5L is really the reserve in the tank or is it lesser?

I am fast approaching 2500kms on the odometer and it's running beautifully with no issues at all. Touchwood !!!

P.S: The unrelenting torque still makes me go "WOW" each time i gently twist the throttle and is not a good news for fellow riders. I can almost "feel" them gape at amount of distance i put up between them and me in seconds.

I am lovin' every bit of my C-500 ownership

[ruchirtnt]

Originally Posted by mobike008

I think that will spoil the overall classic look of the bike

+1 to that

Originally Posted by mobike008

Kms from last tankful : 275kms
Litres topped up : 9.80 Litres
Fuel Efficiency : 27.75kmpl

I am lovin' every bit of my C-500 ownership

+1 to this too. I am also getting close to 28 kmpl mileage with ODO over 3k+, riding is superb and i do feel a good upgrade over TB 350.
currently looking for a better handlebar for my DS