[karandb]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Hero Impulse front wheel (including tyre) with spacers, and extended fork tubes.

Thank you ebonho!! how about the disc brakes rear and front was the KTM brakes compatible.

[karandb]

Thanks Ebonho!!
what about the back wheel and the disc adjustments, were the KTM disc retained with the impulse rims and hubs for both rear and front, any particular Tyre that would be recommended for a terrain like ladakh. The journey would start from Delhi ladakh and back to Delhi.

[ebonho]

Karan I have no idea bro. Maybe you could check with the KRP guys.

[karandb]

Thanks Ebonho!!
I hope anybody who has done the mod on the KTM would read my query or the moderators can guide or help me out.

[Altocumulus]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Karan I have no idea bro. Maybe you could check with the KRP guys.

Can you tell me how to get the year of manufacture on the Duke chassis or somewhere else ? I am planning to buy one very shortly and want to make sure its not a 2012 manufactured one.

Thanks

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Altocumulus

Can you tell me how to get the year of manufacture on the Duke chassis or somewhere else ? I am planning to buy one very shortly and want to make sure its not a 2012 manufactured one.

Thanks

Sorry bro, no idea on this one too. Simply ask the Bajaj-KTM engineer. They usually have all the inside details (production related) - or can get them for you on request.

[Parthasarathig]

Attachment 1044423

So life had been going on fine with the duke till I developed a puncture last week at 3000kms. Most probably I think it was due to a piece of metal getting stuck between the tyre hugger and the tyre (as I heard the sound of it stuck there and immediately the tyre went flat) cutting in the depth of the tread.

After putting in one repair twig, somehow I managed to limp home. But the size was big and it was losing air. So, got another twig inserted to plug the leak. This managed to plug the leak somewhat but my psi loss dropped to 10psi overnight.

Even if I rode the bike whole day, the psi would be the same at the beginning and end of the ride, only on leaving it overnight it kept losing air. If Id filled 32psi the previous day, next morning it fell to 22, if 35 then 25 as Ive seen with my gauge measurements.

Now the tyre is just 3000kms old and had already changed my front tyre at 1000kms so was not in the mood to go in for change. My next option was to use Slime to plug the minute gap.

After filling slime yesterday, it has not worked as I discovered today morning. Again 10psi loss overnight. The puncture is still leaking as I tested today.

So my next alternative, is to go for tube. What do you all advise? Should I go in for tube? If so which tube will work out for the duke's rear tyre? Will there be any disadvantages, of retrofitting the tube?

Also, im looking at options for the tyre. The MRF tyre has disappointed me as even my friend has developed leaks which are not holding up that great. The tyre is great for smooth roads but not that great in the city roads with potholes and broken roads etc. So, what all are the options other than Mrf, Metzeler and Pirelli? How is continental?

Thanks.

[gk01]

My Duke's rear tire is on a tube (pulsar) for more than a month now without any issues. Where is the puncture exactly? Is it not repairable if you don't want to put a tire on?

[Parthasarathig]

Originally Posted by gk01

My Duke's rear tire is on a tube (pulsar) for more than a month now without any issues. Where is the puncture exactly? Is it not repairable if you don't want to put a tire on?

Sorry the attached image did not get posted for some reason. The puncture is in the depth of the tread of the tyre.


The tube that I checked today was 120mm and the pulsar is of 100mm just like the R15. Which one did you put?

The only problem Im seeing with a tube tyre is in case of a puncture, having to open the entire wheel and fixing up the tube. Also how many pucntures have you had till now? And how does the bike hold up at high speeds of 130?

By repairable, Ive only done the stick and also the slime method as mentioned. What other repair jobs can be done? Please suggest.

Thanks.

[ebonho]

Partha, since the puncture is inside a tread groove depth, why don't you think of getting it repaired by a tyre shop - either a better tubeless puncture fix than the one you tried doing or rubber welding.

Either way I do not think it should matter much as its not going to be the part coming in contact with the road.

Its better than putting a tube IMHO.

[Parthasarathig]

Doc, these two strips were put from the shop itself. The thing is this puncture is not a nail puncture but a cut which must be approx 5 mm in length.

Havent heard of rubber welding. Is it done at tyre shops or welder? I shall search for someone who does that once you can advise what shop to look out for.

Im now filling up air everyday in the morning and the air stays constant throughout the day. Only when left at night, it starts losing the air.

Ill try the rubber welding.

My final step will be new tyre.

Gk01, which brand of tube did you buy and what was the price? The shop asked me 320rs for the 120mm tube.

[ebonho]

Rubber welding is something like a crude vulcanizing / re-treading they do to worn out truck tyres. So that's the place to check.

Are you sure your rim is not bent somethere at the place where the tyre bead sits (that causes slow loss of air as well - though 10 PSI overnight is not slow).

[Parthasarathig]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Rubber welding is something like a crude vulcanizing / re-treading they do to worn out truck tyres. So that's the place to check.

Are you sure your rim is not bent somethere at the place where the tyre bead sits (that causes slow loss of air as well - though 10 PSI overnight is not slow).

Even I was thinking this, but i would need to check it at the svc. Im continuosly monitoring the pressure.

The pressure loss is high when i fill 30psi or more. After the 10psi loss, the pressure kinda stays same reducing over 2 days time.

Although I dont see any rim bends as of now; but will get it checked at the svc once.

The rubber welding thing sounds good. Will search once Im out again

Thanks doc.

[gk01]

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

The tube that I checked today was 120mm and the pulsar is of 100mm just like the R15. Which one did you put?

The tube was 100 x 90, some local brand. It was too early for shops to open so had to live with whatever he had.

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

Also how many pucntures have you had till now? And how does the bike hold up at high speeds of 130?

Had 2 punctures. One of the nail ruptured the sidewall causing the third. No noticeable difference in stability but as Doc suggests, it might be better to have tube as the last option. My reason - when I shoot 80 - 90kmph, I am constantly bothered that I'm running on a tube never mind if it makes a difference. Psychology you see

[ebonho]

Dukers, how many of you have found the bite on the front brake to have gone down?

The pads still have enough meat left (I am already on my second set of the rear brake pads - changed at 6000 kms).

More importantly, when you press the front brake, do you get a typical crackling sound - as if fluid is being forced/sucked through a narrow tube.

Its loud enough to hear it within your helmet so I want to know what is this sound and whether everyone is getting it? Is it normal (or is there a leak somewhere)?