[abhishek24x]

@ tgo it also didnt help. I suppose the silencer is to be blamed. Earlier I used megaphone for about 150Kms and touched 110. Later i got it replaced by short bottle from RE store which was OEM. After that the bike barely crosses 95 kmph:-(

[Tgo]

I don't know if RE are still making the short bottle exhaust muffler. The last time i asked here they said the manufacturer has stopped making it and whatever they have is after market stuff. In which case you never know if it is free-er flowing or not when compared to the stock.

[Pheonix]

Originally Posted by Tgo

I don't know if RE are still making the short bottle exhaust muffler. The last time i asked here they said the manufacturer has stopped making it and whatever they have is after market stuff. In which case you never know if it is free-er flowing or not when compared to the stock.

RE's short silencer is no good on any aspect only that its short compared to the stock one. I did not find any increase in the output neither power nor mileage. Though the stock gave out pathetic sound , the performance was the best. It eased through to 80 -90 and could easily touch 120 on long rides. I used it and later changed to Indore , the sound is pleasingly loud but i havent tried the top whack as my speedo needle is shaking all over place. Got to fix it .

However after every silencer change a carb rejetting check must be done i believe if you find any changes with respect to your previous silencer .

[BullT]

Greetings to fellow Team-BHPians, newbie here. I acquired my Thunderbird 350 on 23 Aug 2013. The ownership experience has been fairly good. Am facing starting trouble after first service, looked around and read forums could not locate a smilar thread so am posting my quandry here.

I have completed 500 kms in 45 days and got the first service done from RE ASS in Bareilly. With great self control which often broke my heart, stuck to the running in schedule, carefully warming up the engine at least for two minutes after every start, sticking like a leech to the speed limits, never ever exceeding 60 kmph.

"Hobbes" as I have fondly christined my Bird had behaved well till now, no tantrums at all. There was mild fluctuation of engine RPM at idle but thats about all. However after the servicing am facing starting issues. The same are listed below and would appreciate advice :-

1. The bike still starts in the first/second kick without fail or with the starter.(very miniscule twist of throttle required)

2. The RPM goes to about 1000 then fluctuates between 800 -1000. Then drops to 600 or so, splutters and stops, if I twist the accelerator it continues to run however even at 1200 RPM, fluctuations of +-200 can still be seen.

3. Once the engine is warmed up it settles down to 1100-1200 RPM with fluctuations of about 100 and no issues thereafter.

4. I tried adjusting the idling RPM with the idling screw (after warming up the engine for 2 mins, taking the bike for a 10 min ride and setting idling to 1100) but cold starts still give the same problem. Anything above this leads to engine RPM going to 1400(hot idle) or so once I ride for longer duration and engine sounds as if it is overspeeding.

I would appreciate pointers as to the likely culprit and troubleshooting advice.

Regards to All

[Tgo]

I had been having similar problems with my motorcycle at one point in time. I could not point out what worked in eliminating the problem but I had a few things done and some of my observations are as follows:

1. Check the health of the battery. Check current readings (using an ammeter) while the engine is running, then, when it is not. With lights on and then, with all electricals off (ignition off). This last point is important to ensure that there is no current leakage at any point in the wiring harness. A current leak made my bike die every time the brake light was on and the engine would be running at idling speed. If your battery charging circuit is healthy you will see 14.6 amps while engine is being revved and in turn charging the battery.
2. Check your spark plugs for carbon deposit and the spark plug gap. Having done close to 16 k km on my current set of spark plugs my bike takes a lot more than 2 minutes to completely warm up. It kind of dies when I open the throttle in this warming up period. This dying-out is similar to revving up the bike and hitting the engine kill switch. As soon as I experience this I let go of the throttle and the engine comes back to life as if the kill switch is released again before the engine could come to a stop. This also happens after a wash when pressurized water finds its way into the spark plug covers and current leaks through the water to the engine body. OR I think I can safely assume that old spark plugs take a longer time to warm up... Just my assumption.
3. Check your spark plug leads for cracks. This is another source of current leakage.
4. Check if the intensity of the headlamp varies while revving up and down. This should not be the case. Even if there is a change in the intensity it should be negligible, not like the Bajaj Chetak/Honda Eterno and other battery less scooters.

The symptoms you tell look like an electrical problem.

[BullT]

Thanks for the inputs Tgo will check sparks and see if that helps, for the circuit will need to go back to RE as I dont have an ammemeter at present. Hopefully will find out what is amiss tomorrow.

[BullT]

Update on the Idling issue - I went to the RE ASS after checking the spark plugs (which seem to be a healthy light brownish). Immediately on reaching there got hold of a mechanic and made him see the RPM overspeeding issue at idling after a drive of half an hour or so.

After waiting for an hour or so I had to press the Service manager to depute a mechanic to look into the problem. The mechanic drove the bike and agreed that there was a problem. He adjusted the idling from the carb, adjusted the TPS and tightened the air intake hose. Now the idling RPM has been set at around 750 and the engine seems to be running fine. There are still some mild fluctuations in the RPM but bike does not stop. The acid test will be when I fire it up tomorrow morning.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by BullT

The acid test will be when I fire it up tomorrow morning.

Waiting to know what happened.

[BullT]

Well I am on the 7th heaven, the bike started flawlessly although a little more twist of the accelerator was required and RPM settled down to 750. The engine did not splutter or cough, hot idling too seems to be fine after a short drive of 5 kms, will do a longish run to reconfirm.

[Pheonix]

Originally Posted by BullT

and RPM settled down to 750. .

Usually the idling RPM is 1050+ or - 200 for all the 350 mills ,somehow 750 sounds bit low IMO ? I am not sure if thats the same for TB as well , you can check it in your manual though.

[BullT]

Any ill effects of idling being on the lower side Phoenix? I only have the Thunderbird 350 user manual, it is eerily silent on idling RPM, would appreciate if anyone could give a link where I can get Thunderbird 350 workshop and service manual.
Regards to All

[Pheonix]

Originally Posted by BullT

Any ill effects of idling being on the lower side Phoenix? I only have the Thunderbird 350 user manual, it is eerily silent on idling RPM, would appreciate if anyone could give a link where I can get Thunderbird 350 workshop and service manual.
Regards to All

Idling RPM should definitely be in the limits as given in your very manual under Engine Specs. However very low levels will be evident with engine off's at low speeds and more throttle twist for acceleration.

You can find all the manuals here
http://royalenfield.com/support/owners-manual/

[petrolhead_chn]

Hi @TGO.... I am in a similar situation. My bull hesitates or rather skips a cycle/moment when I accelerate.

Can somebody post the correct setting of TPS and carb's fuel screw turns. My bull has run 4500kms for the past 1.5yrs 😊

[adrian]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

Hi @TGO.... I am in a similar situation. My bull hesitates or rather skips a cycle/moment when I accelerate.

Can somebody post the correct setting of TPS and carb's fuel screw turns. My bull has run 4500kms for the past 1.5yrs 😊

The shaft of the TPS should start moving the moment you start to twist the throttle and there is a yellow ring mark on the shaft, which should be visible at full throttle.

As to the fuel screw adjustment, please refer to ArizonaJim's post 1733 in the following thread

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...eries-116.html
regards adrian

[petrolhead_chn]

@TGO I fiddled with the TPS and set it up. I also set up the carb. Can you pls confirm if the visibility of yellow ring at WOT is correct?

I have attached a pic for you to judge. If possible pls post a pic of your bull my friend... Thank you.