Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Motorbikes (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/)

-   -   My 5 year old Suzuki Access (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/127137-my-5-year-old-suzuki-access-9.html)

Hello Folks,

It was time for an engine oil change for my Suzuki Access 125. So I did a DIY last month. The engine oil filter was also changed. Below are the details of a Sunday afternoon well spent!

Tools used:

• Ratchet wrench with a 14mm socket for opening and tightening the drain plug.
• 8mm spanner / 8mm box / 8mm ring spanner. You can use any one as per your convenience.
• Flat screw driver (Useful for removing the old oil filter)
• Plier (may be required to open the engine oil filler cap in case it is too tight)
• A pan to collect the old engine oil.
• A funnel with a pipe attached to pour in the new engine oil.

Other important things:

• 1 litre engine oil (Shell AX7 costs INR 390.00)
• 1 engine oil filter (Purolator make costs INR 35.00)
• ‘O’ ring set if required (I did not replace these as they were in good condition)
• Permission from your better half to spend the afternoon in the garage! :D

Ensure that the engine has not been started for at least an hour before draining the engine oil. Remove the engine oil filler cap. Place the pan under the drain plug and open the drain plug using the ratchet wrench with the 14mm socket attached.

While the oil drains out, remove the 3 bolts holding the engine oil filter cap. These bolts require the 8mm spanner. Once the cap is removed, remove the oil filter. You may need to use a flat screw driver to pull out the oil filter. The oil filter cap has a ‘O’ ring and there is a smaller ‘O’ ring present at the centre inside the cavity where the oil filter is placed. Remove the small ‘O’ ring and check for any damage. Similarly inspect the larger ‘O’ ring attached to the filter cap for any signs of damage. If unsure, replace both of them.













Clean the cavity of the oil filter using a clean cotton cloth. Also clean the filter cap, the spring, the 3 bolts, drain plug and the engine oil filler cap using petrol. If you are not replacing the ‘O’ rings, clean the existing ones using petrol.







After the oil has completely drained out, replace the drain plug. Screw it in by hand as much as possible and then tighten using the ratchet wrench with the 14mm socket attached.

Place the small ‘O’ ring in the correct position inside the oil filter cavity. Then replace the new engine oil filter in the cavity. (The oil filter has one side open and the other side close. It is important that the filter is replaced with the closed side facing outside.)

Now place the bigger ‘O’ ring and the spring on the oil filter cap. Replace the oil filter cap securing it with the 3 bolts using the 8 mm spanner.










Now pour in the new engine oil using the funnel. Once done, fit back the oil filler cap. Tighten the cap with hand only.

Start the engine and let it idle for 2 to 3 minutes.

Switch off the engine and after a few minutes inspect the drain plug and the oil filter cap to ensure that there is no oil leaking out.

Most important of all, fill back the old engine oil from the pan into empty engine oil pack and ensure to dispose it off carefully.

Enough of work now! Ride the scooter and have fun! :thumbs up

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.


PS: Had found this video on YouTube that gives details about the Access 125's engine oil lubrication cycle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7O9opny-_E

My Suzuki Access will complete 4 years early next month.
The ownership experience would have been better if the A.S.S. were able to resolve issues. Luckily the warranty is only for two years and so in the last two years it has been serviced outside.
The biggest change for me was last year when the V-ribbed belt was changed (costs around Rs. 400). That made a sea-change to the response of the scooter and I decided not to sell it anymore. I am glad that my mechanic was able to get a correct diagnosis, while other service centers said it was a standard problem to hear the 'clitch clitch' sound when accelerating from slow speed.

Regular service includes changing engine oil and oil filter. There is no gear oil change done for more than a year and the oil is still perfect.
No bolts are tightened nor any other parts are serviced.

I have settled to an engine oil change frequency of 4 months (about 1600 km) and air filter change every 2-3 months.
I find that the air filter needs more frequent change and has bigger impact on the pickup-up and the engine sound that the engine oil.
I got the spark plug changed six months ago as preventive maintenance.

My Exide battery lasted a little more than 3 years and now I am on Amaron.

During monsoons, I might go for a tyre change, though the tyres look perfect.
Two Ceat tyres with tube will cost Rs. 2500. Tyre owner did not recommend putting tubeless tyres on.

The good part about the scooter is the build quality - nothing is lose or broken (running is around 19000 KM's now). There are some parts made in Japan and probably that explains why the this scooter still goes rock solid.


An interior cleaning and under-body cleaning once in six months is really helpful. It somehow makes the scooter ride better.

The weak headlamp and weak brakes along with harsh ride are the downsides.

If the scooter is used being regularly, then an engine oil change at every 1600 kms is a bit premature. I have heard many oil sellers and FNG folks saying that you need to change the oil every 1600 - 2000 kms. I change it every 4000 kms as mentioned in the owner's manual. Regarding the air filter change, it depends on how dusty the conditions are.

Yes, true. A clogged air filter makes the performance of the engine sluggish and also results in high fuel consumption.

Same here. I was waiting for the Exide to conk off so that I could switch to Amaron! :D

+1 :thumbs up

They should have come up with a variant having front disc brake. The ride is harsh when driving solo. It improves a little when you have a pillion.

My stupid local shade-tree mechanic missed putting back an O-Ring when replacing the oil filter. I noticed it after he finished pouring in the new oil. What does this mean, and do I need to put this O-Ring back in urgently? If yes, I guess it means fresh oil again (Rs.350 down the drain - I used exactly the same Shell oil used by Scarlet_Rider as well.)

I should have change the oil myself :(

EDIT: Can I open up the oil filter cover and replace the O-Ring myself without losing all the engine oil ?

I'm talking about this O-ring:

^ or you can just drain the oil and collect it in a clean container. Open the filter, place the O-ring, plug back the filter in place and refill the old oil. Will not do any harm.

Regards.

hellmet: If the oil filter is accessable without removing a cover from the bottom of the engine, you should be able to just remove it and replace the O-ring.

You will only lose the oil that is in the filter cavity, probably about 250cc of oil.

Although you can run the engine without the O-ring in place, that O-ring is important.
It keeps the unfiltered oil from bypassing the filter so its absence is almost like not having a oil filter in the engine.

After fixing the problem, you might want to add 200-250cc of new oil to the engine to replace what was lost.

Okay, I opened up the Oil Filter cover with a clean beaker under it. About 50ml of oil leaked out. I put the O-ring back in, next the filter, and then put the cover back on. Poured the 50ml of oil back into the sump with a funnel. Took about 20min to do the job, and have put my mind back at ease. :)

Next up is engine oil change for our TVS Pep.

Good that you realized immediately that the O Ring was not put back after the filter was replaced. You did the right thing my removing the oil filter cover and putting back the O Ring.

I have been a silent follower of your posts. I like the way in which you share knowledge in simple words making it easy for everyone to understand. :) :thumbs up

Lost one of the original keys that came with the Suzuki Access. The keys had come with a small metal strip that had a number engraved on it. As per the user manual, this number needs to be quoted to the service centre when a duplicate key is required.

Called up the service centre to check about this. They said that they would check and give a call back. After 10 minutes they call back saying that they do not provide duplicate keys. They informed me that if I wanted 2 keys for the scooter, the entire lock set has to be changed. The charges would be INR 850.00 including labour! :Shockked: Called up another service centre and got the same reply.

Finally went to a friendly neighbourhood key shop. Got 2 duplicates done at INR 40.00 each! Have the kept the original key safely at home. My wife and I use the 2 duplicates in our respective keychains. :thumbs up

Can the keylock cover be operated with the duplicate keys? There is a certain pattern in it, because of which it can be opened with the original keys only, even though it can be closed using any access key. Ive had situations where mischievous people have closed it.

Nope. The key-lock cover cannot be operated with the duplicate keys. You are correct. The cover can be closed with anything that partially fits in the slot but cannot be opened.

The key maker said that the original key has some sort of magnet coupled to the pattern in the base that allows the cover to be opened and closed. The pattern part makes sense but I am not sure about the magnet part.

The key maker said that he can make duplicates with the right pattern that can open and close the cover but he said that they would cost about INR 175.00 per key.

@isiv

Did you report the brake judder to the service center? were they able to correct it?? curious because i am also experiencing the brake judder under hard braking and have reported it to the service center, but till date there was no action taken on it.

Yesterday on my way back home, there was a noise from the scooter at least twice.
The sound was similar to what you would hear when you are filling up air in tires at a petrol bunk and suddenly you remove the nozzle.

I thought air suddenly came out of the tires. I pulled over to check if it was a puncture. It was not.
Then I resumed my journey and did not exceed 40 kmph speeds. This morning, I tested at higher speeds. There was no issue.

My mechanic says due to changes in weather conditions or due to overflow of petrol, the engine could have misfired.

I am still wondering if that could be true.

Did not. I could see it happen with other vehicles too, so assumed it's a design problem. The judder does not occur easily and I was in no mood to waste time with the service center over pretend fixes, so just decided to live with it.

Got my front brake shoes changed (spare part cost: Rs. 317) and also got the speedometer cable changed since speedo+ odo stopped working one fine morning (cable cost Rs. 145). Labour extra.


Vehicle has done 20K KMs and 4.5 years old