[Mafioso]

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I own a 2005 Karizma which has clocked 32.5K till date. Off late, may be from past few months, I have been noticing that the top end power has drastically dropped. Earlier I was able to clock 100 kph with ease, but I have seen it struggling to reach 80 kph. Now, its not crossing even 60 kph. I had the bike checked at the Bhagat Motors Bangalore. In the initial servicing they said all was well when I complained the bike losing power. Now they are saying that the clutch plates have to be changed. I'm also noticing there is lot of burning smell from the engine bay just for riding about 10km. The choke when engaged, the bike starts revving very high and generally never comes back to the normal tune of around 1 000 rpm.

Can you please suggest what may be the reasons and if its the problem with clutch plate or anything else needs to be checked. And replacing the clutch plates would cost how much? Somehow I have not had a good experience with Bhagat motors service and wouldn't want to trust them blindly!!

Any advices, suggestions would be very helpful..

[hellmet]

When you mention burning smell, I think it would have to be the clutch plates doing that. But losing power and erratic engine idle could also point to loss of compression. When you kick start the bike do you still feel the kick-back you used to experience when in the bike's early years, or does it fizzle out hitting the bottom? If compression is OK, I'll have to say it's the clutch. Do you feel the clutch slipping at higher RPMs, like say increase in engine RPM not being reflected in appropriate increase of speed?

[Mafioso]

Originally Posted by hellmet

When you mention burning smell, I think it would have to be the clutch plates doing that. But losing power and erratic engine idle could also point to loss of compression. When you kick start the bike do you still feel the kick-back you used to experience when in the bike's early years, or does it fizzle out hitting the bottom? If compression is OK, I'll have to say it's the clutch. Do you feel the clutch slipping at higher RPMs, like say increase in engine RPM not being reflected in appropriate increase of speed?

Thanks for the quick response..regarding the kick back I havent noticed it ..most of the times use the self starter...let me check this evening ...

Yes the clutch is slipping at higher RPMs, even with full throttle open the bike fails to accelerate forward after 60kmph, but below that speed there is'nt any loss of acceleration, though i would say its not as it was earlier!

This is the behavior of Worn out Clutch plates. if you do not use the vehicle for long or if you use vehicle for many short trips, this is bound to happen.

stay at 40KMPH and in 5 th gear. Rev the vehicle, if the vehicle doesnt progress so easily to 80, then it is clutch. I hope the sprockets are not slipping. THis would cause kat kat kat noise from the rear wheel

worn out clutch @ 30+ K km, mine is going strong on OE clutch and OE sprockets even after same number of km's.

[bluevolt]

Make sure the AFR mixture is OK else clutch plates seems to be the culprit.

[Mafioso]

Thanks gemi_kk. As you had mentioned, there was quite a lot of noise while in 5th gear at the suggested speed! Most of the guys are shocked when I say that the clutch plates are worn out at 30k+ km, I guess its because of constant slipping of clutch, taking off first at the signals, and lot of miles in the city stop-go traffic has played a role in wearing out the clutch plates.


Left the bike for service this morning after confirming that the Clutch plates are in stock. Also, it seems the drive chain sprocket is worn out and needs replacement. Have got a hefty bill from the advisor almost equivalent to my Swift service

[HydroXidE]

Another very neglected are the cables. Service centers rarely give due attention to them. Make sure both clutch and throttle cables are well lubricated.

It is really a low expense area with very good returns (returns outweighing expense by a great margin). You'll have longer lasting clutch plates (clutch is disengaged quickly and completely), and with the throttle cables, better throttle response and also better fuel economy!

[Mafioso]

Got my bike back with the following new parts:

- Disc Clutch friction kit
- Gasket Crankcase cover
- Chain Sprocket kit

plus the normal servicing, oil change, brake shoes other minor stuff.

I feel the clutch is very hard (is it expected after changing the clutch plates?) and clutch is not being disengaged even while holding the clutch, the revs seem to be little higher than the normal idling and the wheels do not roll freely. There is some loss in power between the gear shifts and the bike feels strained to move in front even with a good acceleration! Should go and check this again!!!

Wonder what kind of service checks these authorised service center guys do now a days. They changed the brake lever which wasn't broken and left the broken clutch lever as it is!

[HydroXidE]

Originally Posted by Mafioso

I feel the clutch is very hard (is it expected after changing the clutch plates?) and clutch is not being disengaged even while holding the clutch, the revs seem to be little higher than the normal idling and the wheels do not roll freely. There is some loss in power between the gear shifts and the bike feels strained to move in front even with a good acceleration! Should go and check this again!!!

No.. this is not expected.

Get both clutch and throttle cables checked first. You need to make sure these are in good condition before you suspect any other fault elsewhere.

FYI, both your problems can occur if the cables don't move freely inside their respective outer tubes.

With the clutch cable, this will result in a feeling that the clutch takes more time to disengage and may not disengage fully (and you'll feel loss of power at the wheel) as though you are still riding with the clutch pulled.

With the throttle cables, you'll feel the the idling is higher even when the idling screw is set lower. Also, when you twist the throttle if the acceleration is slow.. and when you let go of the accelerator; even the deceleration is slow. You may also get a feeling that the bike is staying on throttle more than needed. Eg: you aren't really accelerating, but the bike is cruising slowly by itself at some minimum speed.

If these are the symptoms, get all the cables lubricated. Clutch + Throttle (karizma has 2). So, 3 in total. You can get this done at a local mechanic and get it done right in front of you.

You can test these easily by yourself.

Clutch: With the bike OFF, stand on the right side of the bike and observe the crank case where the other end of the clutch cable comes in. Now, pull the clutch lever fully and let go. Do so repeatedly and see if movement at the crank case end is in sync with you pulling and releasing the clutch lever. You should also see a good amount of movement at the crank case end when you pull the lever.

Accelerator: With the bike in neutral, start the bike and rev it. If the revs are already higher even after lowering the idling screw or if the revs don't drop quickly enough when you lower the idling, then its the cable.
After this, accelerate hard (say upto 6k rpm) and let go of the accelerator at one shot. See if the revs drop slower than normal. Ideally it should drop very quickly.

You can benchmark both against some other karizma if you want for comparison.