[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by BusyBoyKK

Could you please suggest below?
1) What could be the problem? For sure service men did not diagnose the exact problem.

It is clearly a problem with that hose which carries fuel. It is could be both the clamp and a torn hose that could be spilling out fuel.

Get a new pair of clamps along with the hose and also check the points where the hose is inserted for any wear.

Get this changed ASAP.

[ArizonaJim]

If one decides to tighten the hose clamps to stop the fuel leak (as I did on my 2011) they must be very careful not to apply too much sideways pressure to the clamp and pump outlet.

The fuel pump outlet on the fuel injected Royal Enfields is made from a molded plastic and using too much force can cause it to break.

Once broken the only fix available is to replace the entire fuel pump.
These pumps are VERY EXPENSIVE.

[BusyBoyKK]

Originally Posted by J.Ravi

Change the hose and clamp asap.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Get this changed ASAP.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

These pumps are VERY EXPENSIVE.

Thank you all for your responses. I got the hose and clamps replaced at Velavan Motors Mount Road. I called them up for a break down service. They came to my office and replaced the hose. Did not charge me for that as my bike is still under warranty.

Thanks Ravi Sir prompting me to them.

Old hose looked like this. No leakage till now.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by BusyBoyKK

Thank you all for your responses. I got the hose and clamps replaced at Velavan Motors Mount Road. I called them up for a break down service. They came to my office and replaced the hose. Did not charge me for that as my bike is still under warranty.

Old hose looked like this. No leakage till now.

Mate thanks for sharing your feedback about the fuel hose. I am glad your problem got resolved. I am not sure why a company like RE does not use steel braided fuel hose. Maybe its the cost? who knows. If there is an aftermarket option to replace the OE rubber fuel hose with a steel braided one then I might go for it.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If one decides to tighten the hose clamps to stop the fuel leak (as I did on my 2011) they must be very careful not to apply too much sideways pressure to the clamp and pump outlet.

The fuel pump outlet on the fuel injected Royal Enfields is made from a molded plastic and using too much force can cause it to break.

Once broken the only fix available is to replace the entire fuel pump.
These pumps are VERY EXPENSIVE.

Thanks for sharing this Jim, this goes to show why the after sales service centre staff keeps it loose. I mean they have to tighten it to an extent that the fuel does not leak out and at the same time the plastic moulded fuel pump outlet does not crack under pressure from over tightening.

[Seacat]

A Very Good Thread Mr Ravi. Thank You. The only thing I have against RE is why the hell don't they provide thicker/wider Rear Tyres ??. It would make the bike so much more appealing and cruiser like.

Originally Posted by Seacat

A Very Good Thread Mr Ravi.

Thanks, Seacat.

why the hell don't they provide thicker/wider Rear Tyres ?

Not only wider tyres, but also tubeless, alloy wheels, 12 V charger, ...etc.

Last week, we noticed a hole of 1 cm dia on the silencer bend pipe of my son's 3.5 year/30,366 km-old Classic 500. Even the muffler inside the pipe got cut, resulting in loss of power, coughing and sneezing of the engine, not to speak of change in the exhaust note. The new spare costs ₹ 7,300 and was available only in Sandhya Auto Spares and Fixwell Motors, both located in J C Road, but not available with the company service centre near Bannerghatta Road or any other authorized service stations. So, I left the bike with Mubarak, near Nataraj theatre, Sheshadripuram with a request to repair the hole with welding. He took two days for welding the muffler and the pipe and servicing including change of oil, filters, brake shoes, etc. The total bill worked out to ₹ 3,665 including ₹ 1,100 for welding and ₹ 80 silencer gasket. We don't know, how long this will last. If it repeats, we will go for a new silencer bend pipe.

[kanu2k15]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

.

Hey buddy, I have read a lot of good tips from you regarding RE. I got myself a 350CC classic thumper around 3 months back. So now the 2nd service is due and I need some advice before the RE mechanics start to mess with the bike.
1. During the 1st service the mechanic poured in the engine oil as normal but I guess he poured in a little extra. So now on a stand and after warming up the engine I can see the oil window from the side to be completely full. The seams on the right side of the engine have a little oil seeping out, though I clean it regularly but still it does come out but very less. Also the response of the engine has deteriorated and feels sluggish while revving in high gear, feels as if the fuel supply has stopped for a second. So is it overfill? Should I get the oil replaced completely in the 2nd service?

2. There is a little sound coming from the engine, like a cricket noise at night. Is it normal or is something loose?

3. The front mudguard vibrates a lot and make noise when going over a pothole. I check the nuts and they all look tight. What could be the issue?

4. the Rear mudguard is misaligned as with the Tyre and with a pillion they almost touch each other. this was kind of fixed in the 1st service but now again it shows. They tried to fix it by pulling the mudguard hard on one side and another mechanic pushing from the other side using brute force. I stopped them thinking they might break something. How can that be fixed? Tyre alignment is correct as far as i know. I was told by someone that this is due to driving over potholes. I have to go through a lot of potholes on my way to work.

Please suggest buddy. Need your expert inputs.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by kanu2k15

Hey buddy, I have read a lot of good tips from you regarding RE. I got myself a 350CC classic thumper around 3 months back. So now the 2nd service is due and I need some advice before the RE mechanics start to mess with the bike.
1. During the 1st service the mechanic poured in the engine oil as normal but I guess he poured in a little extra. So now on a stand and after warming up the engine I can see the oil window from the side to be completely full. The seams on the right side of the engine have a little oil seeping out, though I clean it regularly but still it does come out but very less. Also the response of the engine has deteriorated and feels sluggish while revving in high gear, feels as if the fuel supply has stopped for a second. So is it overfill? Should I get the oil replaced completely in the 2nd service?

During your second service, changing the oil is one of the things they will do. Mention to them that during the last oil change it was slightly overfilled and ask them to be sure they don't do that on this change.
One of the things that is not required on the second service is to replace the oil filter. Ask them to replace the filter even though it is not required.
Also mention the seepage you are seeing and point out the specific area where it is happening. This is usually caused by the fasteners not being sufficiently tight. It is rarely caused by the oil level being too high.

One of the common things that can happen if the oil level is overfilled is some of the oil can be blown out thru the crankcase vent. If this happens, the excess oil will be blown into the air filter box.
If this excess oil gets on the air filter it can block off the flow of air and this will decrease the engine power.
I recommend that you remove the air filter cover and examine it. If there is oil on the filter element you must have it replaced.
Replacing the air filter at the second oil change is not one of the things they normally do so if the filter is fouled you will have to ask them to replace it.

2. There is a little sound coming from the engine, like a cricket noise at night. Is it normal or is something loose?

I have no idea but check the fuel tank bolts, both front and rear to make sure they are tight. The fuel tank can make a lot of different noises if its retaining bolts are loose.

3. The front mudguard vibrates a lot and make noise when going over a pothole. I check the nuts and they all look tight. What could be the issue?

If your motorcycle has metal tubes that cover the front fork seals they may be rubbing on the fork or on the front mudguard due to misalignment.
Look for signs of rubbed or scraped paint in the area.
These can be adjusted by a mechanic to eliminate rubbing if it is needed.

4. the Rear mudguard is misaligned as with the Tyre and with a pillion they almost touch each other. this was kind of fixed in the 1st service but now again it shows. They tried to fix it by pulling the mudguard hard on one side and another mechanic pushing from the other side using brute force. I stopped them thinking they might break something. How can that be fixed? Tyre alignment is correct as far as i know. I was told by someone that this is due to driving over potholes. I have to go through a lot of potholes on my way to work.

Misalignment of the front and rear mudguard is, unfortunately, a common problem on the Royal Enfields.

It is caused by inattentive factory workers who fail to check the alignment when they are building the motorcycle.

While your mechanics had the right idea, they used the wrong method.

To correct these conditions and the front fork shield problem I mentioned above, the bolts that hold the part to the frame (or headstock) must be loosened, the parts shifted to the correct place and then the bolts re-tightened.
Brute force is not needed or recommended.


I hope this helps you with your problems.

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For the correct way to quote, please see this thread.

Thanks!

[kanu2k15]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

During your second service, changing the oil is one of the things they will do. Mention to them that during the last oil change it was slightly overfilled and ask them to be sure they don't do that on this change.
One of the things that is not required on the second service is to replace the oil filter. Ask them to replace the filter even though it is not required.
Also mention the seepage you are seeing and point out the specific area where it is happening. This is usually caused by the fasteners not being sufficiently tight. It is rarely caused by the oil level being too high.

Thanks for the information. I believe they don't replace the oil too but I will tell them to replace the oil and the oil filter.

Regarding the seepage I have attached the pic where I have pointed some arrows to show the joints where the oil is seeping.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

One of the common things that can happen if the oil level is overfilled is some of the oil can be blown out thru the crankcase vent. If this happens, the excess oil will be blown into the air filter box.
If this excess oil gets on the air filter it can block off the flow of air and this will decrease the engine power.
I recommend that you remove the air filter cover and examine it. If there is oil on the filter element you must have it replaced.

I will check that today evening and report back.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If your motorcycle has metal tubes that cover the front fork seals they may be rubbing on the fork or on the front mudguard due to misalignment.
Look for signs of rubbed or scraped paint in the area.
These can be adjusted by a mechanic to eliminate rubbing if it is needed.

Where exactly are you pointing? Below is the front side pic of my bike.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Misalignment of the front and rear mudguard is, unfortunately, a common problem on the Royal Enfields.

It is caused by inattentive factory workers who fail to check the alignment when they are building the motorcycle.

While your mechanics had the right idea, they used the wrong method.

To correct these conditions and the front fork shield problem I mentioned above, the bolts that hold the part to the frame (or headstock) must be loosened, the parts shifted to the correct place and then the bolts re-tightened.
Brute force is not needed or recommended.

Do I need to get the front fork adjusted for the rear misalignment to be fix? Please confirm. Below is the pic of the issue which I am facing.




I also need to ask you one more thing which I forgot earlier. My gear shifts have become very jerky. Once it did not even got into the first gear from neutral while I was at a red light, had to put it in the 2nd gear and go. Also in the morning (cold start) after pressing the clutch completely when I put the bike in first gear it gives a huge jerk and then engine dies instantly, like a newbie learning to drive. This does not happen for rest of the day. What could be the issue? Does the gear needs some lubrication? What should I tell the RE mechanic?

Thanks for all your expert views. Great to be in a forum like this with members like you. Thanks again brother.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by kanu2k15

Thanks for the information. I believe they don't replace the oil too but I will tell them to replace the oil and the oil filter.
Attachment 1450990

My error. Although the oil from the first service doesn't require changing, I think it is a good idea to change it anyway. It will still have some very fine metal particles in it from the additional wearing in that has occurred following the first oil change.

Regarding the seepage I have attached the pic where I have pointed some arrows to show the joints where the oil is seeping.
Attachment 1450992


I will check that today evening and report back.

The seepage around the joint where the side case meets the main engine housing indicates the fasteners may require additional tightening.

The seepage around the oil filter cap with the three bolts indicates the O-ring on the cap is damaged and it should be replaced. It is located in a groove just inside the flange. Although there are other O-rings in the filter cavity, they seldom leak. The O-ring on the cap on the other hand is easily damaged if the person installing the cap isn't careful.

Although there is a fiber gasket at this joint, the O-ring should do 100 percent of the sealing at this joint.
When you request the new oil change, be sure to ask them to replace this seal.

Where exactly are you pointing? Below is the front side pic of my bike.

Attachment 1450991

The area where the aluminum fork lowers slides up inside the black metal sleeves. Look for rubbing marks on the bare aluminum.

It may be there is no problem and something else is making the noise.



Do I need to get the front fork adjusted for the rear misalignment to be fix? Please confirm. Below is the pic of the issue which I am facing.

Attachment 1450993 [/quote]

No front fork adjustment is needed for the rear mudguard. For that matter, no rear fork adjustment is needed either.
The problem is with the mudguard and the bolts that hold it to the frame.
Loosening those bolts will allow the mechanic to push the mud guard over so it lines up with the wheel better. Because the bolts are some distance from the end of the mudguard, a very small amount of movement at the bolts will shift the end of the mud guard a great deal.

After it is aligned, tightening the bolts will hold it in the improved position.

I also need to ask you one more thing which I forgot earlier. My gear shifts have become very jerky. Once it did not even got into the first gear from neutral while I was at a red light, had to put it in the 2nd gear and go. Also in the morning (cold start) after pressing the clutch completely when I put the bike in first gear it gives a huge jerk and then engine dies instantly, like a newbie learning to drive. This does not happen for rest of the day. What could be the issue? Does the gear needs some lubrication? What should I tell the RE mechanic?

Thanks for all your expert views. Great to be in a forum like this with members like you. Thanks again brother.

Shifting problems like you mention are usually caused by the clutch cable being too loose.

Stand in front of your motorcycle looking at the clutch lever.

Very lightly, push the lever in the direction that would disengage the clutch just until some firm resistance is felt and notice the small gap that opens up between the front of the lever and the fixed support that attaches to the handle bar.
The gap between the lever and the support should be 2 to 3mm. If it is greater than that, you've found the source of your problem.

In several other posts, I've described how to adjust this clutch lever gap but as you are taking the motorcycle in for service, suggest to them that the clutch cable may need adjusting. It is a 5 minute job so it shouldn't cost you much.

When a motorcycle sits overnight, the plates in its wet plate clutch will sometimes stick together. This is normal.

To break the clutch plates free from one another, before you try to start the motorcycle, swing the kick starter lever out, pull the clutch lever all the way to the handle bar grip and then push the kick starter down.

The engine will begin to rotate until it starts its compression stroke. At that point, the lever will show a firm resistance.

Keeping the clutch lever pulled in, add more pressure to the kick starter.
It will suddenly start to move without rotating the engines crankshaft.

That means the clutch plates have broken free (as they should be with the lever pulled in).

After doing this, return the kick starter to its normal position and start the engine.

Now, when you pull in on the clutch lever, you should be able to shift the motorcycle into first gear without the engine dying or the motorcycle lurching.

[kanu2k15]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

.

Great, Thanks for all the help and information buddy. Will get all these things sorted out tomorrow during service.

The stock Exide Freedom battery of my son's Classic 500 called it a day today after serving for 30,388 km in 3 years and 9 months. Made some phone calls. Amaron battery [14 AH] is not available in Bangalore for Classic/Thunderbird 500; got the lowest quote of ₹ 2,300 for Exide Bikerz [14 AH] inclusive of delivery and fitting at home, which I agreed to immediately. The technician came within half hour, completed the job and I paid him by cash.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by J.Ravi

The stock Exide Freedom battery of my son's Classic 500 called it a day today after serving for 30,388 km in 3 years and 9 months. Made some phone calls. Amaron battery [14 AH] is not available in Bangalore for Classic/Thunderbird 500

J.Ravi sir I believe Amaron has no battery in 12V 14Ah specification for a motorcycle. There's only Exide and a couple of other unknown brands. RE has off lately changed from Exide 12V 14Ah to Amaron 12V 8Ah VRLA on the Tbird350 but strangely retained the Exide 12V 14Ah on the Tbird500. I have a feeling RE is using 12V 14Ah on their 500cc and 350cc CL models as opposed to Tbird350.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

J.Ravi sir I believe Amaron has no battery in 12V 14Ah specification for a motorcycle.

Yes, navin_v8. I was told by the main distributor of Amaron for Bangalore - they have two Amaron pitstops - that a new battery of 14 AH for Classic/Thunderbird 500 is going to be launched within a month. I don't know, how far it is true.

There's only Exide and a couple of other unknown brands.

My Thunderbird 500 has the OE stock Fiamm Wind 12V 14AH battery, which is 13 k km and 2 years & 8 months old.

RE has off lately changed from Exide 12V 14Ah to Amaron 12V 8Ah VRLA on the Tbird350 but strangely retained the Exide 12V 14Ah on the Tbird500.

Perhaps, this has something to do with the self-starter motor and fuel pump ratings of these models, who are the major consumers of the battery power.