[petrolhead_chn]

Hello all,

I've been on a mission to bring back my Bajaj Pulsar 150 dtsi-the one with round headlights and 18-inch wheels to an upbeat condition. A lot of DIY has gone into it including painting and all. I dont intend to get rid of the drive. I would like to keep it till I exist So requst all fellow bhp-ians to help me on this with solutions.

The help I need now is, yesterday I changed the accelerator and clutch cables, changed grips and cleaned carb as well. After I put back the carb, the bike does not idle. It starts but it turns off immediately. The plugs and air filter are clean. I manipulated the idle screw as well but no success. In the process of cleaning, I only opened the bowl, float, jet and lubricated butterfly but did not open the diaphram. I used a thin wire to remove any gum internally.

I took my ride to a mechanic and he increased the idle speed by idle screw and changed the AFR as well. After this the gear shifts are difficult. The gears kind of break (like when you change gears without shutting throttle???).

Apart from that I've changed wheel spokes, rear drum, brake shoes, clutch plate, pressure plate and chain sprocket kit. I've plans to change disk caliper, clean chrome exhaust and brake linings. Would cleaning exhaust improve low end torque or beat sound?
Looking for responses now. Thanks in advance.

(P.S. MODS please merge with existing threads if my posting is a repeated creation. Thank you.)

[Ajaybiz]

Pulsar is known for gear shift issues, and the symptoms says that your bike is running ultra lean hope your mechanic sorted out, on the other side I might hurt your sentiments but it's not worth keeping it for life time and you'll not get back the money invested in, anyways if its something to do with first love money doesn't matter.
Still many better bikes are around worth restoring and their value is appreciating day by day you'll never loose your investment on those exotics.
If you are performance oriented bikes try one of these old skool 2 stroke, they will change your perception the way you look at bikes and biking. Nothing much can be done on these small single pod 4 strokes.
I do have 14 year old CBZ but still I feel that these 2 strokes are the thing to retain and restore, CBZ is my love and heart but these 2 strokes are my passion.

[motionfreak]

I had the same DTSi 2004 model, spoke wheels. the most proud thing about this model is the original Bajaj logo.. not the current VWagon logo. awesome for long rides, coz the tank could take 18 ltrs of petrol.
i changed the wheels to UG2 alloys for lack of good tyre options in 18". 17" tubless MRF zapper C is really good. also when the rear suspension gave up, i installed gas shocks for UG2. did many more things to her w/o any problems.
You can call me for any assistance. PM if you want my no.

I also have 05 Karizma and as all zmas it has cold start issue. BUT the P150 dtsi never gave this problem, even when I cranked her up after a month or so.
yes, the pick up and NVH had dropped a bit, but it was a reliable ride.
Sold it I gor R15 too, so three bikes was big issue for parking space.


anyways,
1. I feel your bikes AFR ratio is not correct. adjust that. you can easily find many tutorials online. number of turns is 5, on my bike. try 4,4.5,5,5.5,6,6.5. set the engine idle RPM at 1400 when it's hot. It's bit higher , but that's what works for Pulsars. says so in the manual too. keep an eye on spark plug colour at every 100 km. open , check colour, clean, install, adjust afr. repeat till you find the perfect dark brown colour, and the idling problem is gone.
if you want i can email you the service manual for DTSi pulsar
2 if AFR is good, Check the compression ratio. Highly unlikely to have a problem there.
3. for smoother gear shifts, if the head is not leaking, go for synthetic oil. works best, better revs, smoother shifts, bit harsher noise (coz of higher revs)

One more thing I'd done to my P150 was, I installed the stick choke on the carb, instead of the original cable type. this ensures the complete closure of the choke. easily available at Bajaj spares store as all UG2/3 had this. newer auto choke is totally useless.

VV thats me working on her. changing stiff indicators to the flexible ones. also digital meter

[petrolhead_chn]

@Ajaybiz, What you said makes sense in terms of returns. But this is my first bike and it has saved me many times and I am attached to it somehow. I wish many more miles in your CBZ.

@Motionfreak, Your bike looks awesome. Did you change the scoop as well or is it stock? My bike has round headlamps.I am sure the AFR is messed up. I was intending to change the carb unit completely. But I guess I am going to try your suggestion here. Few questions-

* Can you please elaborate on AFR settings and the choke stuff?
* When you say 5 turns, is it clock-wise or anti-clockwise?
* Should I remove the AFR screw completely and then start?
* At this point I am able to start the bike but have to keep revving to keep it idling else it just turns off.
* Please send me the service manual and how to tune the AFR.
* A guide on cleaning carb would be of great help.

Thanks in advance!

[TheARUN]

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[motionfreak]

@Petrol head_chn
thanks bro. my bike came with bikini fairing headlight. first DTSi bike. spoke 18" wheels i didn't understand what scoop you are talking about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqMoSk1z59Q

the DTSi

FOR YOUR BIKES CARB TUNING
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...-properly.html
Tighten the AFR screw completely (clockwise) . Do not aplly force, just stop wen it stops rotating. then rotate it anti clockwise and count the no. of turns.
The AFR screw is made of brass, so it's quite easy to get damaged.
Google youtube videos about tuning the carb.
Proper method, if you don't know the no. of turns
warm up the engine. ride for few kms. put it on main stand. tighten the idle screw so the idle speed is between 3 to 3.5 k rpm. close the AFR screw completely. start opening it slowly. you will notice the rpm rising. keep opening till the rpm stops raising and maintains rpm even if you open AFR further. that's the sweet point. put the idle speed back to 1400 and you are done.
It not easy to do it the first time.

Check the colour of spark plug after riding for 50-100 kms.
repeat if necessary.

I suggest start with warm engine, set AFR at 5 turns and then experiment. easier.

I'll find the service manual and the parts list. give me your email id

what you have done for cleaning the carb is good enough. best way to learn is by observing an experienced mechanic.

[petrolhead_chn]

Thank you so much. I appreciate your time. The scoop I meant the dome instead of round lamps.

I managed to follow your instructions. My AFR screw did not have spring on it. I bought a new screw and the choke as well. Things seem okay but not completely sure. I had to turn it almost 7 turns to have a good idle. I will check the color of plugs tomorrow. I feel the beat has changed or maybe illusion :-)

I guess I have a manual but it does not have the carb cleaning guide.

Would be great if you could point me on the below.
1. How do I clean the exhaust? Just by filling petrol and soaking or something of that sort? Mine is fully chrome, not rusted and Bajaj does not have this part now.
2. The fuel gauge is bent I guess. Got a new gauge but the length of the thin pipe is shorter than stock. May I alter. While my old gauge comes to a point and sticks the new gauge does not even budge.
3. Any advice on changing the cam chain tensioner and timing chain for the tick tick sound? Mech says tappets are good.

I will keep you updated again on the AFR experiment.

On behalf of my ride, thanks again for your suggestions :-)

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by motionfreak

@Petrol head_chn
thanks bro. my bike came with bikini fairing headlight. first DTSi bike. spoke 18" wheels i didn't understand what scoop you are talking about.

Just so you know, the new AFR screw does not seat fully. It protrudes out by 2-3mm. The earlier screw did not have springs on it.

[motionfreak]

AFR screw should have a spring

I don't remember if bike had it or not. I never unscrewed it completely. but according to this, it should have it.
check page 18 in this pdf
http://www.publimotos.com/biblioteca...80DTS-iTEC.pdf

exhaust cleaning.. don't waste petrol. use diesel or some other solvent (only if the stains are that stubborn )

I didn't understand what you have written about the fuel gauge. sorry bro

about tensioner, I can't tell you that online dude. take it to a good mechanic.
get in touch with a bhpian from you area or city for referrals. try xbhp.com

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by motionfreak

I didn't understand what you have written about the fuel gauge. sorry bro

I put the fuel gauge in the wrong direction into the tank. I found the mistake and fixed it. But I bought a new gauge which is just idle here .

Thank you for answering all my questions.

Any advice on opening up the cylinder head to clean up the carbon deposits on a 52k bike and about 9years? TIA

[motionfreak]

do you really feel the need for opening it?
don't try fix something that isn't broken.

[petrolhead_chn]

First, apologies for the late response.

The change of choke that you suggested is excellent. I suggested the same to 3 of my friends and they have done it too!

Yes, the AFR is all set up now except that the bike turns off when I accelerate from a signal stop. But if I give a delicate throttle and then accelerate it does not turn off. And after the engine heats up the bike shudders in first gear only.

I 100% agree with your statement above. But the reason I asked is because the mechanic to whom I took the bike said the head could be full of carbon and the valve guides/seals might be worn out and suggested overhauling or replacing few parts in the head. He also suggested changing the exhaust and showed me an avenger that had the silencer of royal enfield(Electra's or Thunderbird). It was so very good. It definitely is good. The avenger is being modified to a HD. He said the mileage would be hit by about 4 kms. I guess I can try the exhaust of royal enfield :-) But I also dont want to go ahead without possible opinions from my colleagues and fellow bhp-ians.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

Yes, the AFR is all set up now except that the bike turns off when I accelerate from a signal stop. But if I give a delicate throttle and then accelerate it does not turn off. And after the engine heats up the bike shudders in first gear only.

Don't just tune your carburetor. Better - Drain and tune / Best - Dismantle, Clean the carburetor and then do a tune up. Your problem is that of a clogged jet in the carburetor.
Regards adrian

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by adrian

Don't just tune your carburetor. Better - Drain and tune / Best - Dismantle, Clean the carburetor and then do a tune up. Your problem is that of a clogged jet in the carburetor.
Regards adrian

I did not think so. I'd cleaned it earlier but the diaphram. I'll do it today and check again.

[mithun]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

I put the fuel gauge in the wrong direction into the tank. I found the mistake and fixed it. But I bought a new gauge which is just idle here .

Thank you for answering all my questions.

Any advice on opening up the cylinder head to clean up the carbon deposits on a 52k bike and about 9years? TIA

No problem in cleaning the head for a 52K bike, go ahead. But make sure that the person knows what he is doing or else the performance will go down the drain.