[VW2010]

Between the 300 and 390, i would pick a 390 simply for the overall cost factor. The initial cost and the maintenance cost(i mean spares) are such a blessing for the 390.

Every other part is locally manufactured and the cost is quite cheap. Consider this, thrash the bike and you cna buy one for 2L. You maximum loss is 2L while the 300 has its own cost figures from break pads, fuel filters and what not that you will definitely change per similar usage.

If you like the 300 style of riding, get the RC390 because the cost of ownership, personally i felt is cheaper in the 390.

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by Khodays

Then there is something just not right, and this is not just with me, other two guys with me have the same mileage, all this bikes have been from the first lot, I will be very happy even if I see 200K for a tank, but its just not happening, any clues!!!

I am getting a figure of 25-28 in city and 35- 39 in high ways. Though I expect it to go down considerably as I have started thrashing the bike.

Originally Posted by VW2010

If you like the 300 style of riding, get the RC390 because the cost of ownership, personally i felt is cheaper in the 390.

I have seen a video in youtube were the duke 390 clearly wins the drag race with the 300, so does the rc 390 on a track. Both seperate videos. What these riders say is that the rc 390 carries more exit speed from the corners.

[Khodays]

Originally Posted by basuroy

What gear and rpm do you guys find yourself in ?

So far my entire ownership spanning 600km has been 2nd gear for 20/30% of the time and 3rd rest of the time with 4th perhaps being limited to a grand total of 10kms because I like to keep the rpm near about 6-8k (city usage only so far so constant fluctuation in speed ). Now that is not a mileage friendly mode of riding but so far display has indicated an average of 25 and my estimates based on rough calculation turned out 22/23 (the current tankful will be calculated precisely ). My bike is sep '14 manufactured . Has your mileage figure deteriorated down to 17 or been the case since day 1 ?

My findings are primarily on highways, SH and NH, its pretty much the same, 160 to 170 is what I am able to see per tank, havent been able to check RPM, but average KMPH on the speedo was typically 116, not sure if that answers......

[shan_ned]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

I have seen a video in Youtube were the duke 390 clearly wins the drag race with the 300, so does the rc 390 on a track. Both seperate videos. What these riders say is that the rc 390 carries more exit speed from the corners.

I looked at the dyno charts of both D390 and N300 for a theoretical calculation of the torque available at the rear wheel. Across the RPM range (from 7000 to 10000 RPM), D390 seems to have better torque figures. So in theory, D390 should have better acceleration than the N300 in all the gears. This explains why RC390 has a better corner exit speed than the N300. Considering RC390 being less heavier and more aerodynamic than N300, I think it would be a blast on the tracks. Even I have seen a youtube video where a rider of N300 (for the track) was commenting about using a modified rear wheel sprocket to make the overall gear ratio even much shorter (improving the rear wheel torque) in order to keep up with the RC390. I am not sure how D390/RC390 will behave on disabling the RPM limiter. In another forum, I read about a D390 owner who was able to touch 11300 RPM after disabling the RPM limiter.

[basuroy]

Originally Posted by Khodays

My findings are primarily on highways, SH and NH, its pretty much the same, 160 to 170 is what I am able to see per tank, havent been able to check RPM, but average KMPH on the speedo was typically 116, not sure if that answers......

Very different from my riding habit then but my understanding is highway runs at that speed in 6th gear or even 5th will be favorable to fuel economy as compared to speeds varying constantly between 30-70 in 3rd gear within a city , higher gear = less fuel consumed .

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by Khodays

My findings are primarily on highways, SH and NH, its pretty much the same, 160 to 170 is what I am able to see per tank, havent been able to check RPM, but average KMPH on the speedo was typically 116, not sure if that answers......

I think we all ride our bikes very different. If you have to compare 2013 models to 2014 models then you will have to poll many of the 2013 and 2014 riders separately.

[VW2010]

What gear and rpm do you guys find yourself in ?

Gear doesnt matter. The RPM has always been above 7K . The bike such a fun bike to ride at that RPM and always willing to do things you want to.

And my gear shift patters will always feel like that way where the gear shift indicator keeps blinking before i change a gear and is already blinking after the gear shift.

And i guess thats one reason why i havent seen the stalling issue because i ride it slightly harder.

At 6th its cruising and its usually below that RPM range. But at lower gears its always around that RPM.

We come from 500 and fuel efficiency of anything or 18 - 22 is BOON for us

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Khodays

Then there is something just not right, and this is not just with me, other two guys with me have the same mileage, all this bikes have been from the first lot, I will be very happy even if I see 200K for a tank, but its just not happening, any clues!!!

No idea besides the obvious candidates bro. To someone else I would have suggested - Check clutch plates condition. Check air filter. Check if brakes are binding, wheels are free. Chain slack. Check for for any leaks/cracks in throttle body. Check injectors. Check ECU map for error codes. Check tyre pressure.

And finally - change right wrist, and check again.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

I think you had mentioned that the 390, like the 200, had been detuned after initial launch.

Regards
Sutripta

Sutripta, the pre-launch 390s were actually slower than the production ones first launched. None of the pre-launch test 390s could be pushed beyond 162-163 kmph. The first lot 390s are touching 179 kmph. Some people claim that the newer "black" 390s are slower than the older "white" ones. By around 5 kmph. Don't know how true this is though. Even if it is, that's about 8-9 months after launch (seeing as the black ones started coming from Feb this year?)

Originally Posted by munchy_cool

not a good day at all for the Duke, first the blink code 45 and now while returning from office an old man in a spark comes and hits me at a red light.

not sure on the damages this will have on my wallet :(

Not that much. This is a major issue with the Dukes. In a lowside, the crash guards prove too flimsy. They bend/collapse. The older foot levers were really crappy. They would immediately snap off. Replacing was never a problem - cost just 125 odd bucks. But what happens if there isn't a parts shop in the distant horizon? Invariably, the foot levers would break. The bar ends would get ground, ditto the tip of the mirror, and sometimes the rear indicator. Much better to replace those flimsy crash guards with decent frame sliders which extend enough to project beyond the radiator.

Originally Posted by Khodays

My findings are primarily on highways, SH and NH, its pretty much the same, 160 to 170 is what I am able to see per tank, havent been able to check RPM, but average KMPH on the speedo was typically 116, not sure if that answers......

That does answer the question. Though I still feel 170 is low. Should be a decent 190-195 at least (22-23 kmpl). Will keep a lookout at the average speed on the display next long ride, and report back to you.

[munchy_cool]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Not that much. This is a major issue with the Dukes. In a lowside, the crash guards prove too flimsy. They bend/collapse. The older foot levers were really crappy. They would immediately snap off. Replacing was never a problem - cost just 125 odd bucks. But what happens if there isn't a parts shop in the distant horizon? Invariably, the foot levers would break. The bar ends would get ground, ditto the tip of the mirror, and sometimes the rear indicator. Much better to replace those flimsy crash guards with decent frame sliders which extend enough to project beyond the radiator.

Thanks Doc. As a temporary fix I got it welded because the service center is closed today. I would get it changed in the next service.

Even though the guy who hit me came from behind and hit directly on the gear foot peg, I would appreciate if you could point me to a better crash guard in case the bike falls.

[basuroy]

Took pressure reading again today , overnight drop -
26F down from 28 last night .
28R down from 32R .

After soap water test(rear was over inflated to 40) , no leakage were found around the rim joints or the valves . The rear however was leaking from around the puncture that was 'fixed' a week back .

The puncture chap said he will push in the existing plug and put in a new one but I stopped him after he echoed my thoughts that there is a probability of further damage while the new plug will not likely be any better .

I have a few queries -
1. Can a once fixed puncture wound be fixed again? is it worth the risk even if done by a different shop , one perhaps recommended by many ?

2. the chap has a very negative opinion on tubeless always saying how they are a gone case(within the context of punctures) , is it really that hard to fix a puncture ( and this was a very small nail ) in tubeless or is he just making excuses for his incompetence ?

3. Are there different qualities of the mushroom plugs available ? should I perhaps purchase some recommended one myself and ask the chap to use that plug ?

4. What is the option you will choose if you were to find yourself in my situation ?

5. not as important right now but what can be explanation behind the 2psi drop in front and rear(even before puncture ) after every day ? rim and valve seems fine though I will get a second opinion on that .

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by munchy_cool

Thanks Doc. As a temporary fix I got it welded because the service center is closed today. I would get it changed in the next service.

Even though the guy who hit me came from behind and hit directly on the gear foot peg, I would appreciate if you could point me to a better crash guard in case the bike falls.

There are a variety of frame sliders available in the market for the Dukes. Get the largest (most protruding) most solid ones you can find. Also those that rotate/get ground (don't know what they are called), as they absorb a lot of the force and prevent it from being passed on to the bike. And are replaceable (the top part which gets ground away).

Do not weld. Replace immediately. These are cast aluminum parts. Much weaker than those on the RC (which are forged - sadly they are even more rear set than the Dukes). That's the gear lever pivot. You can ride without the rear brake. You cannot ride without gears.

[munchy_cool]

Originally Posted by basuroy

Took pressure reading again today , overnight drop -
26F down from 28 last night .
28R down from 32R .


I have a few queries -
1. Can a once fixed puncture wound be fixed again? is it worth the risk even if done by a different shop , one perhaps recommended by many ?

2. the chap has a very negative opinion on tubeless always saying how they are a gone case(within the context of punctures) , is it really that hard to fix a puncture ( and this was a very small nail ) in tubeless or is he just making excuses for his incompetence ?


5. not as important right now but what can be explanation behind the 2psi drop in front and rear(even before puncture ) after every day ? rim and valve seems fine though I will get a second opinion on that .

1. yes it can be.
2. I have been using tubeless tyres on my bikes for the last 4 years and never had a puncture leak, I guess the guy is making excuses. I guess he is not competent enough to fix it. I would suggest try someone else.

5. Even though I was not a super intelligent student in school, from the science I remember "gases expand on heating and contract on cooling". Now I am assuming that cold has arrived in your part of the woods, so this theory of mine could explain the loss in psi.

Hope this helps.

[abhinav.s]

Thanked your post by mistake here goes the replies.

Originally Posted by basuroy

I have a few queries -
1. Can a once fixed puncture wound be fixed again? is it worth the risk even if done by a different shop , one perhaps recommended by many ?

Not sure if it can be fixed a 100% since he has already done the damage by not plugging the puncture properly. But if it is highly recommended tyre shop, the guy should be able to find the correct track of the original puncture as Doc mentioned earlier and seal it.

Originally Posted by basuroy

2. the chap has a very negative opinion on tubeless always saying how they are a gone case(within the context of punctures) , is it really that hard to fix a puncture ( and this was a very small nail ) in tubeless or is he just making excuses for his incompetence ?

Fixing tubeless punctures are very easy and if done right, are much more easier and a better fix compared to tubed tyres.

Originally Posted by basuroy

3. Are there different qualities of the mushroom plugs available ? should I perhaps purchase some recommended one myself and ask the chap to use that plug ?

Most of the mushrooms are similar in their function. But you can search online for better quality if available.

Originally Posted by basuroy

4. What is the option you will choose if you were to find yourself in my situation ?

If you are not planning any long rides just yet, you might stick with the tyre, take readings to ensure it does not deflate fully and try fixing the puncture at the other shop. If no go, use it with a tube for interim until you plan on replacing the tyre for a long ride.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by basuroy

The puncture chap said he will push in the existing plug and put in a new one but I stopped him after he echoed my thoughts that there is a probability of further damage while the new plug will not likely be any better .

I have a few queries -
1. Can a once fixed puncture wound be fixed again? is it worth the risk even if done by a different shop , one perhaps recommended by many ?

2. the chap has a very negative opinion on tubeless always saying how they are a gone case(within the context of punctures) , is it really that hard to fix a puncture ( and this was a very small nail ) in tubeless or is he just making excuses for his incompetence ?

3. Are there different qualities of the mushroom plugs available ? should I perhaps purchase some recommended one myself and ask the chap to use that plug ?

4. What is the option you will choose if you were to find yourself in my situation ?

Plugging another puncture glue stick into an existing one is always a gamble and most of the times you will lose the gamble. Has happened to me thrice. Your best bet is to get a mushroom patch installed. This will be patched from the inside and is typically fool proof. You will have to remove the Tyre from the rim. It's not a DIY job and needs a good Tyre shop.

If you decide to plug with another stick then either it will stop the leak or the leak will increase

[basuroy]

Originally Posted by munchy_cool

Even though I was not a super intelligent student in school, from the science I remember "gases expand on heating and contract on cooling". Now I am assuming that cold has arrived in your part of the woods, so this theory of mine could explain the loss in psi.

Hope this helps.

Yep that helped and thank you

Yes hot/cold tire reading certainly explains the difference of 2psi I noted overnight . Anyways I was referring more to an observation since day 1 where pressure was dropping by margin of 5-7 in span of 4/5 days (all reading taken after similar running condition - for example front a few days back was at 17 down from 25 in the span of a week , no puncture in front and no leak observed today from rim seal/valves) but have excused that for the time being .

Originally Posted by abhinav.s

But if it is highly recommended tyre shop, the guy should be able to find the correct track of the original puncture as Doc mentioned earlier and seal it.

If you are not planning any long rides just yet, you might stick with the tyre, take readings to ensure it does not deflate fully and try fixing the puncture at the other shop. If no go, use it with a tube for interim until you plan on replacing the tyre for a long ride.

Thank you for your time ,Yes there is one shop 3 separate folks have pointed me towards , will pay a visit .

No long rides planned for the time being though coming Sunday wish to hit the highways finally for a 100/150km cruise and a delhi trip in planned for early next month(250km one way + city usage). Tire is brand new( 600km) so a replacement is out of question . Same goes for tubes - I have no issues against tubes though any future puncture will involve taking the wheel off and I don't trust Bareilly mechanics realigning my wheel correctly . I will be relocating to either Kolkata or Delhi soon and believe one can find more competent mechanics over there .

Any suggestions regarding tire sealants that are introduced via the valve ?

Any other preemptive safeguard you are aware of and suggest ?

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

...

Thanks for the heads up , when you say 'thrice' , do you mean the same wound required 3 attempts before it was fixed or 3 separate times you have attempted this gamble and failed/succeeded ?

Good tires shops are a rarity here , SVC themselves over phone suggested what is basically a roadside shanty . I will contact them again and ask them to actively assist me though my hopes are not high .

When a tubeless is taken off the rim , what are the key areas that one can mess up and as such I need to be careful about ? My assumptions are-
1. whether the tire will be sealed properly once the job is done , are there different grades of glue for starter ?
2. wheel alignment and disc brake setup - are these difficult or can be rectified with trial and error ?