[barcalad]

What's the maximum one can go with zero bars on the fuel gauge? I usually tank up as soon as the reserve fuel light comes on, but this time I'm observing as to how many kilometers it can pull through on reserve fuel.
So far, it's ZERO bars on the gauge and my Trip F shows almost 40 kilometers (all of it city riding). I doubt 2 litres is the actual reserve capacity. Anyone else tried this?

[black12rr]

Originally Posted by barcalad

What's the maximum one can go with zero bars on the fuel gauge?

With F showing , done 55 kms in flat out riding mode. Should be able to get 60 kms in sedated riding. This is not advisable, but in worst case scenarios can do around 60 kms on F mode .

[schakravarthy]

Originally Posted by barcalad

What's the maximum one can go with zero bars on the fuel gauge? I usually tank up as soon as the reserve fuel light comes on, but this time I'm observing as to how many kilometers it can pull through on reserve fuel.
So far, it's ZERO bars on the gauge and my Trip F shows almost 40 kilometers (all of it city riding). I doubt 2 litres is the actual reserve capacity. Anyone else tried this?

The fuel pump, placed inside the tank, relies on the petrol to keep it lubricated and cool and if you frequently run on fumes, the pump might go kaput! Ouch!

That said, the "low fuel" light usually comes on when there is enough and more fuel to keep the pump safe. Manufacturer's usually play safe with the warnings.

[ashkamath]

Originally Posted by barcalad

What's the maximum one can go with zero bars on the fuel gauge? I usually tank up as soon as the reserve fuel light comes on, but this time I'm observing as to how many kilometers it can pull through on reserve fuel.
So far, it's ZERO bars on the gauge and my Trip F shows almost 40 kilometers (all of it city riding). I doubt 2 litres is the actual reserve capacity. Anyone else tried this?

I have gone 57 Kms on reserve before tanking up. Assuming the mileage is between 25 and 30, I guess that is roughly about 2 litres of reserve. So the reserve should be good somewhere in the region of 55 - 60 Kms.

I normally use only speed and that limits the petrol bunks I can tank up at. So I have done between 45 to 52 a few times and 57 Kms once, which incidentally was during searching for speed petrol.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by black12rr

With F showing , done 55 kms in flat out riding mode. Should be able to get 60 kms in sedated riding. This is not advisable, but in worst case scenarios can do around 60 kms on F mode .

Thanks. I guess those figures should apply to mine as well.

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

The fuel pump, placed inside the tank, relies on the petrol to keep it lubricated and cool and if you frequently run on fumes, the pump might go kaput! Ouch!

That said, the "low fuel" light usually comes on when there is enough and more fuel to keep the pump safe. Manufacturer's usually play safe with the warnings.

I get your point. I've been told by the SVC to maintain a minimum of 3 bars (2 for reserve and 1 for main) for proper maintenance of the fuel pump. This is my first and only expedition with regards to the fuel bars on the Austrian.

Originally Posted by ashkamath

I have gone 57 Kms on reserve before tanking up. Assuming the mileage is between 25 and 30, I guess that is roughly about 2 litres of reserve. So the reserve should be good somewhere in the region of 55 - 60 Kms.

I normally use only speed and that limits the petrol bunks I can tank up at. So I have done between 45 to 52 a few times and 57 Kms once, which incidentally was during searching for speed petrol.

Some figure, that! Could you tell me any Speed bunks in Bangalore? Can't seem to find any. Also, I've heard that Speed 97 is highly priced. True? Any visible/audible difference on the ride than compared to normal?

[VW2010]

Never risk with the 390 and the fuel warning. Fuel warning in 390 is as good as hail mary from the bike to tell you get the first nearest fuel stop. Funnily its like my 500. The moment it hits reserve i have so many times miscalculated and ended up pushing the "very light" CI 500.

If 390 says low fuel in city you are talking something like 25-27 kms, on highway it may actually go down for you may be doing higher speed consuming more.

[mrohit17]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Kudos on the visor setup, and the support system, it'd be great if you could have taken some closer images of the support structure.
Forgive me, but it'd be a remiss if I didn't mention this. I think Team-BHP loyalty has been taken to stratospheric heights with this baby Duke stickering. Kiddin.

Cheers!
V

Thanks. Here's one more snap. Hope this will make the installation clearer. I am still in process of refining this to make them look good and part of the bike.

Originally Posted by ashkamath

Hey Mohit, the Mods look fabulous. What's the height of ZMR windshield? I have fitted the FZ windshield after sawing off a little at the bottom for better looks and drilling 4 holes in it. So it fits directly on to the console instead of the additional steel strap that hold the front number plate. The height is reduced and I feel the wind gust on my face. Further I am concerned that the screws could slacken due to vibration (it's held by rubber bush-thread inside the console and one bush has already slipped and dropped inside the display console) so thinking of putting the number holder steel strip back and try other way of fitting.

The RL and Hella seems cool. Please provide links to the same. How much does the electrical installation needs to be tinkered to instal these 2 items?

ZMR windshield is some 3" higher and 3" wider than the FZ one and with fitting on the number plate holder you gain another inch or so. Installation of RL's and horn was simple with expert personnel on hand. I have access to a very good technician who is a pro for these kind of mods and yes no wires were cut or even sliced. Entire fitting activity had taken around 25 minutes at most.

[quote=john doe;3632237]

Originally Posted by mrohit17

I have exactly the same horns. If you see the box, the MRP is Rs.300 odd. I picked them from Reliance auto for Rs.290/- including fitting.

Hella has a range of horns and yes they look similar, but the performance is altogether different. I do not remember the exact model name so can't comment on this further, but online you can see various models being available at different price points for example these:

http://www.snapdeal.com/product/hell...23746555#prdsc

versus

http://www.snapdeal.com/product/hell...rns/1756058088

[mithunvvijayan]

As there has been a lot of queries on rattling noise, I am posting some images of what I did for eliminating the noise from the headlight assembly and mirrors

I have done the following things

1. Fastened the loose couplers and wires inside the headlight assembly securely and inserted a few thermocoal bits. You need to know how to dissasemble the headlight unit, especially how to remove the bushes on the sides.

2. Added rubber washers to the screws which fasten the windscreen and the number plate mounts. This part can be quite tricky, as the nuts inside the headlight unit might fall inside the unit, you will have to remove the headlight cover to fish out the nuts.

3. In order to remove the mirror vibration, apply fevi quick, along the mirror gap.

Time taken: 1 hour.

[schakravarthy]

Need a little help here!

I observed the following behaviour on my bike. Can anyone corroborate if its an issue or a normal behaviour?

Please follow this-

Turn 'on' the ignition --> flick the engine kill-switch 'off' ( the instrument cluster lights up ) --> wait for the bike to perform the system check --> turn the kill-switch 'on' again with the ignition still turned 'on'.

On doing so, in my bike, the instrument cluster lights, expectedly, turn off. But a faint glow is still emitted from the 'abs' light.. sort of like a residual current effect. The light disappears by itself after about 10 secs or, immediately, in case the ignition is turned 'off'.

Here's a pic with the faintly glowing part circled.



Can you please check and revert?

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

Need a little help here!

I observed the following behaviour on my bike. Can anyone corroborate if its an issue or a normal behaviour?

Can you please check and revert?

No. It doesnot happen in my bike. I tried all combinations of kill switch and igintion positions. All the lights, including ABS, goes off immediately

[gharika]

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

Need a little help here!

I observed the following behaviour on my bike. Can anyone corroborate if its an issue or a normal behaviour?

Please follow this-

Turn 'on' the ignition --> flick the engine kill-switch 'off' ( the instrument cluster lights up ) --> wait for the bike to perform the system check --> turn the kill-switch 'on' again with the ignition still turned 'on'.

On doing so, in my bike, the instrument cluster lights, expectedly, turn off. But a faint glow is still emitted from the 'abs' light.. sort of like a residual current effect. The light disappears by itself after about 10 secs or, immediately, in case the ignition is turned 'off'.

Here's a pic with the faintly glowing part circled.

Can you please check and revert?

I had a similar experience with turn indicator led in the console. This happened after a wash at the ASC. It was gone after about an hour and never repeated, so probably water was causing it.

[schakravarthy]

Originally Posted by gharika

This happened after a wash at the ASC. It was gone after about an hour and never repeated, so probably water was causing it.

It's been almost two months since my bike's been near water of any sorts, so I don't think its a problem due to waterlogging.

Anyway, now that its been established that its a problem quite unique to my bike, I think its time to go visit the not-so-friendly neighbourhood authorised service centre. Sigh!

[barcalad]

This being winter, every morning when I take off the cover and prepare for the first ride, I let the bike idle for 1 minute so. Having plonked myself on the saddle, when I release the clutch from the first gear, it moves normally (sometimes, stalls (understandable)), but then say I pull the clutch to apply the brake (in case of a parked car/pillar), it automatically picks up a high rpm (than it was) and then automatically idles down to normal after 1-2 seconds. This happens only in the mornings or anytime of the day when I start my first sortie.

When I come back and park it at it's place, or even during normal road riding, it doesn't happen. Sometimes, it happens in bumper to bumper traffic as well. But that's, very rare. Last time it happened was just outside my house on the ORR.

Anyone else facing this? I happened to read one gentleman's query about almost this very same issue on his Stunner, and hence I decided to write mine here as well.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by barcalad

Anyone else facing this?

I have observed this from the day I got my motorcycle but never looked at it as a problem that I need to address. The rpm increase is not over 2000-2200rpm and settles down almost immediately after the first spike. The engine rpm is a little unsettled when cold but stabilizes after reaching optimum temperature.

I too have started the practise of a little over 1 min idle cause the mornings are super cold and I start my ride to work at quarter past six AM. The warm up has also gotten rid of the stalling problem I used to face when ambient temperatures are very low and if the engine is cold too. I don't face the stalling issue at all in the evenings when I head back home from work and I don't do engine warm up in the evenings.

[schakravarthy]

Originally Posted by barcalad

... I let the bike idle for 1 minute so. Having plonked myself on the saddle, when I release the clutch from the first gear, it moves normally (sometimes, stalls (understandable)), but then say I pull the clutch to apply the brake (in case of a parked car/pillar), it automatically picks up a high rpm (than it was) and then automatically idles down to normal after 1-2 seconds. This happens only in the mornings or anytime of the day when I start my first sortie.

Anyone else facing this?

Happens in my bike too. I let my bike idle till a couple of bars pop up on the temperature gauge, yet, the bike exhibits the same behaviour as that what you've noted.
Maybe an auto-choke kind of feature, since the bike may perceive it as still being a cold engine, even with 2 bars on the guage?