[barcalad]

Originally Posted by unk9ja

Ask him to check the chain as the o rings would have been fried. This would result in unequal tension and noise in further days.

Got it done. All's green now. His tension was way beyond permissible limits, due to drying and self-reaction of the chain. Got the sprockets and chain thoroughly inspected.

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by barcalad

As soon as we returned to Bangalore, we headed straight to the private service centre I go to.

Does your bike have the tappet like noise? If yes, is your private service center equipped to handle a valve clerance correction? I can always come down to Bangalore as a last resort.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

Does your bike have the tappet like noise? If yes, is your private service center equipped to handle a valve clerance correction? I can always come down to Bangalore as a last resort.

No tappet noise. But my gearshift has become unusually hard all of a sudden. Shifting from 1-2, 2-3 is making a weird noise, followed by a slight jerk, even in motion.

I'll enquire for you. PM me your details so that we can discuss this further.

[Akhilash95]

My bike sometimes enters into a controlled wobble at higher RPMs in 5th 6th gear. Of course I see such speeds very rarely. Is it something to do with a loose cone set or my riding style?
I have observed that it begins during gear shifts and stabilises if I cut throttle input. No problem at regular highways or even above that, happens only at unwanted very high speeds. The tyre pressures were ideal so they can be ruled out.

MY2015 changes to D390

Updated handlebar grips today
Attachment 1340219

Fan shroud to reduce heat onto riders legs
Attachment 1340229

Fork protectors
Attachment 1340230

Redesigned Clutch actuator arm
Attachment 1340231

RC spec turn signals, fog proof, more sturdy and flexible, stiffer rear fender
Attachment 1340232
Attachment 1340233

Mono shock gets protector for inner piston as well as a mudguard
Attachment 1340234

They supposedly even have slipper clutch.
All these changes were observer on a D390 and the RC is still yet to get the upgrades.

PS- all credits goes to xbhp member who posted it on the ownership thread.

[hiren.mistry]

Originally Posted by Akhilash95

MY2015 changes to D390

PS- all credits goes to xbhp member who posted it on the ownership thread.

Cannot see the images Akhilash. Can you upload them again?

[ff1609]

Oil seepage from various parts of the engine is common in 390s, just take it to your service station - they will open it and add reseal it.

Originally Posted by basuroy

Guys , can you please check your clutch case and see if it is also messy like this

[ff1609]

1. I get a whizzing noise from the fuel tank lid (particularly that thing which covers the keyhole on the fuel tank). Also, at one point that plastic covering just below the radiator (behind the front wheel) was also making a whizzing noise due to a loose nut.

2. I agree this noise is always there on all 390s

3. You are sorted on this one already

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

Finally got my bike!!
The issues I reported.
1. A whizzing noise at around 40-50 kph which starts to kind of howling when at around 80-100kph, from the front side.
2. A tappet noise kind of noise at below 5000 rpms. Higher the throttle input, higher the noise.
3. Veering towards right, hands free.

What the technician did.
1. The technician claimed, that he checked for the sound after removing the tank cover, and a host of other culprits. Finally he changed the oil seal for the front and back wheels. Said he fixed the issue.
2. He claims that the tappet noise is present for all 390s. I dont know if it's true.
3. Said that he rectified the problem by doing something with the cone assembly.

Result
1. Not sorted out at all. Will have to report back when I have time.
2. I will take a test ride to confirm.
3. Completely balanced

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by ff1609

1. I get a whizzing noise from the fuel tank lid (particularly that thing which covers the keyhole on the fuel tank). Also, at one point that plastic covering just below the radiator (behind the front wheel) was also making a whizzing noise due to a loose nut.

2. I agree this noise is always there on all 390s

3. You are sorted on this one already

Most of the rattling noises in my bike are sorted. But I didnt face the fuel tank lid issue or the radiator plastic either. I think someone else mentioned putting a O ring or a rubber washer on the fuel lid. You might have to search back few pages.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by ff1609

1. I get a whizzing noise from the fuel tank lid (particularly that thing which covers the keyhole on the fuel tank). Also, at one point that plastic covering just below the radiator (behind the front wheel) was also making a whizzing noise due to a loose nut.

For the whizzing of the fuel tank lid, put a rubber O Ring right around the keyhole. Use a strong adhesive. Make sure the O Ring is not too fat but is sturdy.

For the whizzing of the plastic covering, replace all the 3 (IIRC) nuts/screws on it and you're good to go.

[mithunvvijayan]

My friend was diagnosed with brain aneurysm recently. The doctors gave us two options, either do nothing and see, or do an open skull surgery, which has a 50-50 chance.

As I am quite OC about my bike, I again went to the service center today ( its also holiday for me). They asked me to try another 390 of similar make, and odo readings. It also had the noise, albeit in a lesser intensity. They said I had two choices, either do nothing and see, or opt for a shim change, which has a 50-50 chance for either the sound to go away or an increase in sound.

[Added_flavor]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

As I am quite OC about my bike, I again went to the service center today ( its also holiday for me). They asked me to try another 390 of similar make, and odo readings. It also had the noise, albeit in a lesser intensity. They said I had two choices, either do nothing and see, or opt for a shim change, which has a 50-50 chance for either the sound to go away or an increase in sound.

Mithun, the reason they are saying it's a 50-50 chance is because shims of the exact size are difficult to find. Even if you do, you might end up with the noise again because shims will wear again. Quoting my own older post.

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

Mine is from the first lot and I have no issues with hot starts. It just had to do with the correct shims. Some bikes did not have shims of the correct size which affected valve clearance and hence starting issues. I remember a mechanic at a Bajaj ASS once said the shims are either a size low or a size high - which meant either starting issues or more than normal clattering noise.

I remember the mechanic had measured the shim with a vernier caliper. So you can imagine the precision required. Another question is, whether the A.S.S has the skill, commitment and patience to resolve this.

[Akhilash95]

With the peak summer approaching, would love to make the bike run a little cooler.
Have ruled out engine ice as user reviews suggested that there is no perceptible change and only psychological satisfaction and it costs twice the price of of Motul inugel.

Has anyone tried doing an exhaust wrap on their bike? They cost about 35$(DEI Amazon) and reduction of heat up to 50%*.

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

Mithun, the reason they are saying it's a 50-50 chance is because shims of the exact size are difficult to find. Even if you do, you might end up with the noise again because shims will wear again. Quoting my own older post.



I remember the mechanic had measured the shim with a vernier caliper. So you can imagine the precision required. Another question is, whether the A.S.S has the skill, commitment and patience to resolve this.

Anyways, I am going to take that chance. I am going to make them do it in my second service.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Akhilash95

Has anyone tried doing an exhaust wrap on their bike? They cost about 35$(DEI Amazon) and reduction of heat up to 50%*.

Thought about this initially, but then decided against it after some research.

I couldn't recollect the source of this info but I clearly remember reading somewhere that although the heat throw from the header was reduced, the engine was showing higher temperature reading after the wrap.

Also read somewhere that thermal wraps - by keeping so much of heat inside the header - may lead to premature damage to the header and the exhaust gasket. It made some sense to me actually. Once the engine is running, the hot gas may scavenge faster through the exhaust due to the wrap. But what happens when the engine is shut down? The header will not be able to dissipate heat into the atmosphere due to the wrap and it will stay hotter for a longer period of time, which is a very bad thing if you ask me! This trapped heat will definitely affect the gaskets and cylinder head.

If the manufacturer claim 50% heat reduction, they mean 50% heat reduction in the heat throw and not the engine temp. So engine is dissipating only 50% of heat now than usual. How is the other 50% of heat supposed to get dissipated? I would love to meet those guys and ask it personally!

[RiderZone]

After having ridden my 390 for about 35,000 kms, I'm now quite used to the orchestra of noises it makes. I have that shim noise, very audible at low RPMs. The fuel filler cap is noisy too. Something in the tail has started vibrating recently as well!

I say orchestra because the noise happens at only certain RPM ranges! When I start the bike there's that high-pitched knocking sound from the engine like there's a penny bouncing around in the cylinder. As I accelerate, at around 4000 RPM the fuel cap starts buzzing like a Jazz singer. On bumps the chain slaps around like a drum, and at high speeds the tail makes some weird noises. It's a complete set of music!

The SVC guy told me I'll have to leave the bike with him for a day for all of this to be cured. I am a firm believer in not trying to fix what isn't broken, I feel trying to fix these minor irritations might lead to creation of other major frustrations.

The latest issue seems to be the speedometer zooming to 0 every few seconds. In the beginning it happened rarely, a few 0 kmph screens between a lot of 80 kmph screens. Now it has gone the other way round! A few 80kmph screens between a mostly present 0 kmph screen. Told this to the SVC guy, he says this is a common problem.

But yeah, KTM could certainly improve their quality department