[barcalad]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Akshay, it looks less to do with washing (frequent or not) and more to do with saline corrosion.

Doc, I'm afraid the reason he has mentioned is correct. Mine has shown signs of replacement already with every mechanic (including KTM SVC) stating the same reason - too much pressure washing.

However, it will last for a few thousand kilometres more, and I plan to replace it at the 15k or 16k mark. (Current - 13700)

[mithunvvijayan]

Finally got the petrol smell problem solved. There was indeed a crack on the petrol tank underside through which the petrol was seeping. They replaced it under warranty.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

Finally got the petrol smell problem solved. There was indeed a crack on the petrol tank underside through which the petrol was seeping. They replaced it under warranty.

Mithun, any update on the retro fitting of the slipper clutch? Really looking forward to a proper review of it (after being retro-fitted).

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by barcalad

Mithun, any update on the retro fitting of the slipper clutch? Really looking forward to a proper review of it (after being retro-fitted).

I have been to the service station a couple of times enquiring about it. They have confirmed that the " missing peices" are finally arriving. I dont know how long it will take. Hopefully by this month end.

[unk9ja]

Originally Posted by barcalad

Mithun, any update on the retro fitting of the slipper clutch? Really looking forward to a proper review of it (after being retro-fitted).

The friend of mine who retrofitted the slipper clutch on the 390, has got it removed as he was robbed off his power slides. He said the bike was smooth on downshifts and not to his liking. He has now packed off his R15 instead for mods to use during the track days instead of the Duke.

[lucifer919]

Hello All,

So i finally traded in my 3 year old 200 (first lot bike, run for 30,000 Kms), for a 390. Process was pretty straightforward at the dealership.
Made the downpayment on Monday and filled out the paperwork. Bike was ready for delivery on Tuesday, but i picked it up on Wednesday (5th Aug 2015).

Have ridden the bike for about 100 Kms so far and its a hoot to ride. I had actually expected it to be very similar to the 200 but i was in for a surprise.
Have read through the first 200 pages of this thread and still catching up. Wanted to put a short note here, to introduce myself as a new owner.
I'm located in Bangalore and bought the bike from KTM Yelahanka, which is very close to where i stay.

Some short notes of my experience thus far:

The engine on my 200 was very silent. In contrast, the 390 engine is extremely noisy, and not in a good way.
There is a constant loud ticking from the head area of the engine. Took it to the SVC center and was told this is normal.
It almost sounds the way an engine would, when the valve tappets need adjustment and/or the timing chain needs replacement.

Oddly, the bike idles around 1800-2000 RPM range. Reading some earlier posts in the thread, i think the Bajaj folks have just enriched the fuel/air ratio being pumped into the engine.
I say this because under engine braking, you can hear the pops and crackles from the exhaust backfires. Maybe this was their solution to the stalling issues?

The gearbox is also very different in feel. Its quite harsh at standstill speeds, but butter smooth at higher speeds.
The bike really loves to be in the >4000 RPM range. Any lower and it sputters and chokes.
Upshifting and downshifting, i'm still getting used to. Its jerky right now and taking away the fun factor.
Upshifts with the clutch pulled in all the way is jerky, because the engine drops revs instantly.
Similarly, downshifts are smooth only when blipping the throttle (which i'm used to), but still weird for an unknown reason. Just does not 'feel natural', for lack of a better term. Maybe the slipper clutch has something to do with it?

In corners, it likes to lean over much faster than the 200 did. But I attribute this more to the tyres than anything else.
And OH THOSE TYRES!!! in just the 100 kms that i've run them, they feel soooo grippy! But have been warned by fellow owners and friends that i should not expectt hem to last beyond 5000 kms, with my riding style.
Dont know if that translates to a bad riding style or a delicate tyre.

Engine heat is really not a deterrent for me. It almost feels similar to the 200 if not more. Maybe because my commute involves open roads and very limited congestion.

More to follow as i get more miles under the belt.
Cheers,
Kiran.

[akshayhonda]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Akshay, it looks less to do with washing (frequent or not) and more to do with saline corrosion.

That can be the issue too as I stay in Goa. Pretty close the the coast. But my Pulsar 180 never had such saline corrosion issue nor any other friend who owns a Duke 200/390.

But I honestly feel the culprit is washing the bike too often

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by unk9ja

The friend of mine who retrofitted the slipper clutch on the 390, has got it removed as he was robbed off his power slides. He said the bike was smooth on downshifts and not to his liking. He has now packed off his R15 instead for mods to use during the track days instead of the Duke.

I know I will have to sacrifice engine braking for smoother downshifts. But I had to compromise many times while cornering hard, inorder to avoid the harsh downshifts. Though I couldnt thrash a 2015 model, which I got my hands on, I think the clutch helps hard brake and go while cornering.

[msrsooraj]

Has anyone here tried the new 2015 duke 390. The one with all the new modifications? My major concerns are the engine managing the heat. Any comment on the slipper clutch??

[MavericK46]

While washing my bike this weekend, I noticed damage on a small section of the radiator. Looks to be due to a hit from debris...

Does the damage in itself warrant a radiator replacement?
If yes, does anyone have an idea no how much a new one costs?

Cheers !

Sundar

[RiderZone]

Originally Posted by MavericK46

While washing my bike this weekend, I noticed damage on a small section of the radiator. Looks to be due to a hit from debris...

Does the damage in itself warrant a radiator replacement?
If yes, does anyone have an idea no how much a new one costs?

Cheers !

Sundar

Sharing a photo would help us assess how much damage there really is. My radiator has small blemishes due to debris, but everything works smoothly. Depends on the level and type of damage to decide if radiator needs replacement or not.

Total cost of radiator assembly is around 5,000 bucks as far as I remember.

[unk9ja]

I got an oppurtunity to start my Duke390 today after a 2.5 month hiatus as I was down due to after effects of Viral fever. Took the ride for a service at KTM Mekhri circle. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw the service area. They have remodeled the area and now has good airy feel to it unlike earlier where the technicians elbowed each other to service the bike. Also the basement is being revamped to handle additional traffic and parking of accidental bikes.
Looks like the SVC are now waking up to the sheer size of the bikes they have to service. Hope this shall also be copied at other outlets too. I will post the pics of the new facility when I go there on Monday to collect back my bike.

[sridhu]

Folks

My front brakes feel very spongy/ no bite. The brake fluid level seems to be lower than correct (small line in the window, WAY to the bottom). The bike is about 2years old & has done about 6400 km.

I think the brake fluid needs topping up.

Couple of questions
- Do I just open the master cylinder and top it up or should I bleed all the old fluid & replace the fluid?
- As a caution, should I do the rear brake too?
- What oil grade do I use - DOT 4 or DOT 5.1?
- Do I have to take any special care because of ABS?
- (I am pretty handy but have not done this specific job ever. What other things should I worry about?
- Finally, why has this happened? Should I look for a leak? Have not ridden the bike for about 3 months.

THanks a lot.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by sridhu

- Do I just open the master cylinder and top it up or should I bleed all the old fluid & replace the fluid?

If its been 2 years its highly recommended to flush and replace brake fluid.

Originally Posted by sridhu

- As a caution, should I do the rear brake too?

Yes please.

Originally Posted by sridhu

- What oil grade do I use - DOT 4 or DOT 5.1?

DOT4 is good enough for our bikes.

Originally Posted by sridhu

- Do I have to take any special care because of ABS?

None needed. Just that thanks to the ABS Unit, you'll need more brake fluid than standard bike without ABS.

Originally Posted by sridhu

- (I am pretty handy but have not done this specific job ever. What other things should I worry about?

I have posted about replacing brake lines where I have mentioned about brake bleeding as well. Just follow it and you should be good.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...rake-hose.html

Originally Posted by sridhu

- Finally, why has this happened? Should I look for a leak? Have not ridden the bike for about 3 months.

This is normal - it escapes a bit from the caliper piston seals and nothing to worry much about.

[ArizonaJim]

The reason the fluid level goes down is mainly due to the fact that the brake pads wear.

As the pads wear, the piston(s) in the caliper must move outward so additional fluid is drawn from the master cylinder to replace it. It is perfectly normal for this to happen.

Usually, there will be some wording on the cover or cap of the master cylinder listing the recommended brake fluid.
If nothing is written on the cover/cap, read the Owners Manual. It will list the recommended fluid(s).
Always use the fluid type that is printed there. Using "word of mouth" about some "wonder fluid" that improves braking can lead to a total failure of the brake system.

When bleeding or replacing brake fluid, be aware that it is very destructive to all types of paint. Even the smallest amount of it on a painted surface will immediately start to soften and dissolve the paint.
Because of this, extra precautions are needed like totally covering all painted surfaces around and below the master cylinder with rags or protective materials.

Do not overfill the master cylinder with fluid. The maximum level will always have a small air space above it between the fluid and the cover.
This space is needed to accommodate the expansion of the brake fluid which will expand as it heats up during braking.

Under no circumstance should any air be allowed to enter the hydraulic brake system.
Even the smallest bubble in the fluid will prevent the brake from working properly.

Although it seems like it wouldn't cause a problem, shaking the can of brake fluid before adding it to a brake system will introduce enough air into the brake fluid to cause problems.

Before opening the master cylinder, totally clean all of the surfaces around the cover/lid.
Even the smallest particle of dirt into the brakes hydraulic system can cause it to fail.

If one is bleeding the brake system, do not allow any brake fluid to contact the brake disk or pads. It can serve as a lubricant which will prevent proper braking.

If the brake system is being bled, do not over-tighten the bleed valve on the caliper.
Tightening it until some resistance is felt and then turning the valve about 1/8 turn further is usually more than enough.