[sridhu]

Folks a question - how does one adjust the play on the front brake of the Duke 390?

The issue is that after the replacement of the brake fluid, the front lever moves about 3 cm (at the tip) before the brakes engage. Is there some way for me to reduce the play to about 1 cm?

I use the 2 finger + blip on downshift and with the current set up, the lever crushes my finger.

Thanks.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Folks a question - how does one adjust the play on the front brake of the Duke 390?

The issue is that after the replacement of the brake fluid, the front lever moves about 3 cm (at the tip) before the brakes engage. Is there some way for me to reduce the play to about 1 cm?

The brakes haven't been bled properly. There should be very minimal play when bled correctly. Your brake lines have air which give you the spongy/play feeling.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Folks a question - how does one adjust the play on the front brake of the Duke 390?

The issue is that after the replacement of the brake fluid, the front lever moves about 3 cm (at the tip) before the brakes engage. Is there some way for me to reduce the play to about 1 cm?

I use the 2 finger + blip on downshift and with the current set up, the lever crushes my finger.

Sridhu, I described exactly the same thing happening just a page ago.

Copy pasting the relevant bits .....

"Just the braking (front) seems to have developed more of a lever pull to get the same effect.

Got the front pads checked and cleaned. Pads are fine, lots of life left. Basically with armored full gauntlet gloves, the inner (middle) finger comes in the way of single (index) finger braking, by not allowing the lever movement beyond a point and the brakes are now not biting before that point and getting actuated. No problem with two finger (index and middle) braking. Though a single finger is more than sufficient pressure wise, but the lever movement (and possibly the shape/curve) is an issue. Any inputs on this?"

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

The brakes haven't been bled properly. There should be very minimal play when bled correctly. Your brake lines have air which give you the spongy/play feeling.

Sunny, I was thinking along similar lines. Only in my case my brake fluid has never been replace (or even topped up). So no bleeding (improper or otherwise) has been done.

Again, copy pasting the relevant bits from my earlier post ....

"I’m a little wary of asking them to drain and replace the brake fluid for fear of some added hitherto non existing issues (bubble, sponginess, etc.) for something which just needs an added finger."

The only explanation I can think off is that brake fluid is highly hygroscopic i.e. it sucks in moisture from the air. And when that happens, it (moisture) acts as a contaminant and degrades it over time, and it loses its properties and hence must be replaced.

P.S. My bike will become 2 years old next month. Maybe time to bleed properly and replace.

The rear brakes are totally useless man. Anything more than even the slightest of pressure activates the ABS. I'm sure the brake is still working, it's just that with that trrrrrrr thing happening under your foot, you lose all feedback that is so important to riders who have grown up feathering their rear brakes.

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Just the braking (front) seems to have developed more of a lever pull to get the same effect.

Got the front pads checked and cleaned. Pads are fine, lots of life left. Basically with armored full gauntlet gloves, the inner (middle) finger comes in the way of single (index) finger braking, by not allowing the lever movement beyond a point and the brakes are now not biting before that point and getting actuated. No problem with two finger (index and middle) braking. Though a single finger is more than sufficient pressure wise, but the lever movement (and possibly the shape/curve) is an issue. Any inputs on this?

Doc, you are not alone. I'm experiencing difficulty in breaking with two fingers and blipping at the same time. Seems like there is no bite for a first centimeter or two of lever travel. Almost rear ended a car in traffic. Pads are fine. Haven't replaced brake fluid

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Almost rear ended a car in traffic.

Something very similar here, which led to the discovery.

I think we should get the brakes properly bled and new brake fluid put in.

How old is your bike?

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Something very similar here, which led to the discovery.

I think we should get the brakes properly bled and new brake fluid put in.

How old is your bike?

It's a dec 2013 model

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by ebonho

"I’m a little wary of asking them to drain and replace the brake fluid for fear of some added hitherto non existing issues (bubble, sponginess, etc.) for something which just needs an added finger."
.

Bleeding brakes is really easy once you get the hang of using reverse bleeding. Even if there is air, you can drain and fill back up and it wouldn't take over 10 minutes to do so. I highly recommend you try out, you just need a couple of 50ml syringes, a meter of transparent petrol pipe and fresh DOT4 brake fluid.

[sridhu]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Sridhu, I described exactly the same thing happening just a page ago. .

Sorry Doc. Searched for "front brake".

The pads are fine. Fluid has been replaced. The bike is about 2 years old (only 6k kms but thought it is better to change the fluid based on age.)

I read online somewhere that binding the front brake overnight with rubber bands fixes it. Tried it last night - there does seem to be some improvement. The lever does not hit my fingers now but the play is still more than I like. Guess the air moves to a surface & escapes due to the constant pressure. (This is pop engineering. Take it with tons of salt!)

So, bleeding should fix the issue.

Originally Posted by ebonho

The rear brakes are totally useless man. Anything more than even the slightest of pressure activates the ABS. I'm sure the brake is still working, it's just that with that trrrrrrr thing happening under your foot, you lose all feedback that is so important to riders who have grown up feathering their rear brakes.

Agree with you on the rear brakes.

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Bleeding brakes is really easy once you get the hang of using reverse bleeding. Even if there is air, you can drain and fill back up and it wouldn't take over 10 minutes to do so. I highly recommend you try out, you just need a couple of 50ml syringes, a meter of transparent petrol pipe and fresh DOT4 brake fluid.

Do you have a good video that you can point to, SunnyBoi?

PS: Mistyped video as 'videa' - think that is a brilliant word for a video describing an idea!

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Do you have a good video that you can point to, SunnyBoi?

This video demonstrates reverse bleeding in an excellent fashion :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBk00597EyE

In addition to what he mentions, I'd tap the caliper with a mallet few times while pushing the syringe, then tap the master cylinder few times so that any trapped air bubbles also get loose and come out.

Get a second syringe, a smaller 20ml one to drain the master cylinder reservoir, the video shows him using an old rag which kinda makes your hands dirty.

Keep an empty bottle handy to store the old brake fluid.

[Sutripta]

^^^
Unlike a car, in a bike, mc to caliper is a almost vertical drop. Air will collect at the top, near the mc, and car like bleeding methods can be frustrating. the 'reverse bleed' is a good way to go.

Regards
Sutripta

[Sheel]

For once [no harm in trying] tie a cloth with all your might to the front brake lever and leave it like that for overnight. Has cured my brake sponginess in a few bikes.

[sridhu]

Originally Posted by Sheel

For once [no harm in trying] tie a cloth with all your might to the front brake lever and leave it like that for overnight. Has cured my brake sponginess in a few bikes.

I can confirm that this seems to work. I had left a rubber band tied for about 8-10 hours. Seems to have fixed it.

[sridhu]

Another update - no easy solutions, folks! It went back to what it was originally after about 8 hours.
So does not work, actually.

[Sheel]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Another update - no easy solutions, folks! It went back to what it was originally after about 8 hours.
So does not work, actually.

That means, it actually needs to be bled. While that method is not a stop gap arrangement, it works when there is very less air present.

This has happened with me in the recent past, tried this method twice. It didn't cure the sponginess. Had to get the bleeding done.

[blue_pulsar]

Why am I seeing increasing number of folks putting Ceat Vertigo tyres on their Dukes (both 200 and 390)? What is the advantage? I'm assuming this is because of ride quality?