[CGB]

Originally Posted by Siddy

I was really unhappy with the paint peel and logged an online complaint, got a call from the SVC and showed them what had gone wrong.

After some argument the fellow cleaned the wheel with petrol and pressure washed the rear alloy. KTM India does take its customers seriously. Glad to know they value their customers!

Just a point to add. I am using Vim liquid or soap bar with scorch bite scrubber. Very easy to remove stains from alloys. You can try it yourself rather than giving it to svc.

Originally Posted by FalconRider

This chain is 3 years old with 28000 km on it. Maintained properly from Day-1. Chain and sprocket as good as new.

That's indeed a impeccably maintained chain! Please share the details of what lube and cleaner you use.

Originally Posted by anilp

Great to hear that
I've also had a good experience with KTM Service for over three years now -- during warranty period as well as afterwards. It's been good to see their proactive attitude to keeping my bike in the best of shape. That's one of the reasons why I'll definitely upgrade to a KTM ADV (If it ever comes out) or a Versys 650. Do share details if you face any further issues.

Good to see many D390 owners opting for V650. I guess it's a very opt upgrade. And yes, Ktm hears the customer feedback very seriously and fixes it.

[schakravarthy]

Originally Posted by CGB

Just a point to add. I am using Vim liquid or soap bar with scorch bite scrubber. Very easy to remove stains from alloys. You can try it yourself rather than giving it to svc.

That sounds pretty harsh!

I was recommended Waxpol Silicone Liquid polish by Sunnyboi. Works like a charm. Just a light dab with cotton waste and a quick wipe later leaves the rim all clean and shiny within minutes.
Effortless and safe cleaning.

[Siddy]

Originally Posted by CGB

Just a point to add. I am using Vim liquid or soap bar with scorch bite scrubber. Very easy to remove stains from alloys. You can try it yourself rather than giving it to svc.

Thanks for this info, i'll definitely try it.
I have ordered a can of WD40 as well. Lots of people told me it works well, the chain lube had sprayed all over the wheel and the dirt and monsoons made it worse. I was literally "working out" trying to remove it at home

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by Siddy

Thanks for this info, i'll definitely try it.
I have ordered a can of WD40 as well. Lots of people told me it works well, the chain lube had sprayed all over the wheel and the dirt and monsoons made it worse. I was literally "working out" trying to remove it at home

That is surprising. I too face this issue after every service since they do the lubing just before handing over the bike. But my chrome wheels get cleaned easily with just water and cloth.

[Siddy]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

That is surprising. I too face this issue after every service since they do the lubing just before handing over the bike. But my chrome wheels get cleaned easily with just water and cloth.

I din't clean the sticky dirt for over a month, that made it worse, so bad that the orange wheel was looking black . Ideally one should keep the bike stationary for sometime after lubing to let the lube soak and dry so that nothing sprays over the alloy. I always take the bike out immediately and make things dirty.

On my bullet, the lube used to spray all over & cleaning the spokes was a pain, the rim was pretty easy to clean.

[CGB]

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

That sounds pretty harsh!

I was recommended Waxpol Silicone Liquid polish by Sunnyboi. Works like a charm. Just a light dab with cotton waste and a quick wipe later leaves the rim all clean and shiny within minutes.
Effortless and safe cleaning.

It might sound. But i make the alloy wet and apply Vim liquid with a soft damp cloth. Using a scortchbite soft foam, gently rub the alloys and spokes. It definitely works and a cheap solution. There is no paint fade due to above process.

Originally Posted by Siddy

Thanks for this info, i'll definitely try it.
I have ordered a can of WD40 as well. Lots of people told me it works well, the chain lube had sprayed all over the wheel and the dirt and monsoons made it worse. I was literally "working out" trying to remove it at home

Try it. But a bottle of WD40 can be used to lube Footpegs, tanklock and Ignition slot after every wash as those places attract moisture and tend to become tight over time. For washing, I wouldn't recommend as it would repel water and makes a sticky layer over the rim which reduces the gloss over time. Just my two cents.

[FalconRider]

Thank you Red Liner and CGB.

For everyone's benefit I am outlining the procedure below. Please note that this is the process I follow and it works best for me. Others might have different views:
1. Turn off the bike if the engine is running. Get the bike up on the paddock stand, after a good ride. (Chain should be warm.)
(if you are experienced and have a sturdy paddock stand, then the entire procedure outlined below can be done with the engine turned on and rear wheel spinning in 1st gear. If and only IF, you are experienced enough. Otherwise get someone to help you or use one hand to constantly rotate the wheel and do everything else with the other hand. Not pun intended)
2. Get the bike in neutral. Rotate the real wheel with one hand, and spray diesel on the chain and sprocket, liberally, with the other hand (you can use Motul chain cleaner, WD40, Kerosene. No petrol or solvents to be used or Your O or X-rings will get chewed)
3. Allow the diesel to penetrate for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the amount of crud on the chain. Its easier to clean a warm chain than a cold chain.
4. Repeat diesel spray if required
5. With a chain cleaning brush or a tooth brush, agitate the dirt till it comes out loose. On botht he chain and the sprocket.
6. Dilute some dish washing liquid in a spray bottle and spray liberally over the chain and sprocket to rinse off the diesel (keep rotating the wheel with one hand) Diesel can be a pain to wash off at times. Rinse clean with a water hose. Repeat if necessary
7. Wipe off the chain with a dry clean rag. (I usually allow it to spin for a minute or two in 1st gear and then dry it using an air blower)
8. Once the chain is clean and dry, start the engine, put the bike in 1st gear and release the clutch. Direct the spray nozzle of the chain lube towards the chain, in between the chain links, where the O-rings are and spray (I have been using Nulon L-60 grease spray for the last 3.5 years. I love it)
9. Next, spray the lube on the O-rings on the other side
10. Next, spray the lube over the rollers.
11. Let it spin for a minute or two. Touch and see the chain to confirm that there is even lubing all over it. Allow the lube to penetrate for a couple of hours
12. Now take another rag and wipe off the excess lube and Voila- its good to go
13. Wiping off the excess lube is of utmost importance. Excess lube will sling off and mess up your rims, chain cover, undertail, clothes etc etc. More importantly, excess lube on the chain will attract excess dust and your chain will need cleaning sooner.
Never. I repeat "NEVER" lube a dirty chain. The lube will drive all the crud further into the O-rings and you will end up with a dead chain soon. Always clean and then lube.
If you follow the above procedure, every 500 km, your chain will last you for a minimum of 35000 to 40000 km, if not more.

Originally Posted by CGB

Just a point to add. I am using Vim liquid or soap bar with scorch bite scrubber. Very easy to remove stains from alloys. You can try it yourself rather than giving it to svc.
:

Please do not use scotch brite on rims, EVER. It scours the paint without you realizing it.
If you have any trouble with rims, let me know, I'll tell you what all can be done to clean them. Different solutions to different problems.
e.g. To remove tar or grease+dirt build up, WD40 or diesel works very well. But you gotta wash it off very nicely after that. Diesel doesn't wash off easily. For washing off diesel, you can use diluted dish washing liquid. Make sure you apply a wax or a sealant after cleaning the rims. You will notice that the next time, it'll be a breeze to clean the rims.
Cheers!

[CGB]

Originally Posted by FalconRider

Thank you Red Liner and CGB.
Please do not use scotch brite on rims, EVER. It scours the paint without you realizing it.
If you have any trouble with rims, let me know, I'll tell you what all can be done to clean them. Different solutions to different problems.
e.g. To remove tar or grease+dirt build up, WD40 or diesel works very well. But you gotta wash it off very nicely after that. Diesel doesn't wash off easily. For washing off diesel, you can use diluted dish washing liquid. Make sure you apply a wax or a sealant after cleaning the rims. You will notice that the next time, it'll be a breeze to clean the rims.
Cheers!

I am using the soft foam of scotch brite! Not the rougher side. Anyway will keep your points in mind. And I've saved your points on the chain as notes in my mobile. Thank you so much for great tip. The rim lost the paint when I gave it for washing wherein he used plastic scrubber to clean it !

[FalconRider]

Glad I could help. Scrubbers etc should never be used on any kind of paint. Paint is delicate, period! It has to be treated like a baby. Applying wax/sealant once every month is a good habit and will protect your paint for years to come.

[bik1906]

Originally Posted by CGB

Shot it now and no edits ! The throw is pretty tight and crisp.

Sweet..just as a word of caution, I installed one of these and with the vibrations on the duke I lost one bolt from my light. I was in the middle of an estate at night so it was no use trying to search for it either. So please use loctite on the threads (pretty much standard situation I guess for anything you install on the duke)

[CGB]

Originally Posted by FalconRider

Glad I could help. Scrubbers etc should never be used on any kind of paint. Paint is delicate, period! It has to be treated like a baby. Applying wax/sealant once every month is a good habit and will protect your paint for years to come.

I am using 3M all in one shiner for plastics and alloys. Quite happy with the results. thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by bik1906

Sweet..just as a word of caution, I installed one of these and with the vibrations on the duke I lost one bolt from my light. I was in the middle of an estate at night so it was no use trying to search for it either. So please use loctite on the threads (pretty much standard situation I guess for anything you install on the duke)

Thanks bik1906. My lights came with reverse thread setup. I have a doubt, my lights doesn't have a adjusting clamp. It has been fixed rigidly with the clamp which was made by nearby lathe. I fear that I couldn't adjust my lights if I use loctite

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by FalconRider

Thank you Red Liner and CGB.

For everyone's benefit I am outlining the procedure below. Please note that this is the process I follow and it works best for me. Others might have different views:
1. Turn off the bike if the engine is running. Get the bike up on the paddock stand, after a good ride. (Chain should be warm.)
(if you are experienced and have a sturdy paddock stand, then the entire procedure outlined below can be done with the engine turned on and rear wheel spinning in 1st gear. If and only IF, you are experienced enough.

I'm sorry to have to disagree but an experienced person/mechanic would never do anything to their chain while the engine is running and driving the rear wheel.

The danger is too high and the benefits are too low.

A few years ago, one of our TEAM-BHP members was cleaning his chain so he could lubricate it.
He had the motorcycle on the center stand with the engine running and in gear so the chain and rear wheel were moving.

Somehow he managed to get several of his fingers between the chain and the sprocket. It promptly cut his fingers off.

He had surgery to try to reattach his fingers but I don't know if it was successful. I haven't seen any posts by him since this tragedy happened.

Never get anything close to the rear chain while the engine is driving it.

Sorry for the rant but this is one area I am rather touchy about.

Peace.

[bik1906]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

/mechanic would never do anything to their chain while the engine is running and driving the rear wheel.

Completely agree, but the unfortunate reality is that even the main Bangalore KTM workshop at kasturba road lubes the chain in the exact same fashion with the engine running in gear. So its not like the mechanics dont encourage this stupidity.

[FalconRider]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The danger is too high and the benefits are too low.

You are absolutely right. Like I said, to each his own. There's no cure for stupidity.
Caution helps.

[unk9ja]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I'm sorry to have to disagree but an experienced person/mechanic would never do anything to their chain while the engine is running and driving the rear wheel.

Originally Posted by bik1906

Completely agree, but the unfortunate reality is that even the main Bangalore KTM workshop at kasturba road lubes the chain in the exact same fashion with the engine running in gear. So its not like the mechanics dont encourage this stupidity.

It is not only in Bangalore, I had observed this in Jaipur too. My bike either goes to Mekhri circle or Banashankari and on all the occasions when the chain was lubed, the rear wheel was driven by the engine. However the technicians seem to know the dangers and always spray from a distance.