[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

But surprise surprise; the brakes were working fine when they came over.

Did not realize it was a 'self healing' bike!
Two causes come to mind then:- reservoir breather, and bad brake fluid which boils.

If you suspect the ABS, switch it off for testing purposes.

Regards
Sutripta

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Did not realize it was a 'self healing' bike!
Two causes come to mind then:- reservoir breather, and bad brake fluid which boils.

If you suspect the ABS, switch it off for testing purposes.

Regards
Sutripta

The explaination offered by the service folks was that this was "probably" owing to faulty seals in the master cylinder; which now have been replaced. He also kept mentioning time and again that these are copper seals; not rubber / plastic (?????)

I am at least happy with the promptness with which issues are being addressed. Service advisors at your doorstep within a couple hours of making a complaint is great by any standard (and DIRT cheap). But I still do not have a 100% confidence in their diagnostic abilities. Lets see is this issue is perma fixed or just a band aid that will start coming off in some time

LOL on the self healing bit. I guess my Enfield is to blame here. The Katoom must have picked it up from her

[ff1609]

Originally Posted by sridhu

@ff1609 what was your tire pressure when you went riding?

28psi (front wheel) was checked the same day.

Originally Posted by sridhu

The point I am making is that that episode did not leave ANY mark on the rims.

Your episode seems to involve simply jumping going over a speed breaker at high speed - that would not do anything to the rims. Mine went into a pothole about 6 inches deep.

Originally Posted by unk9ja

+1 to sridhu's question. Did you check the pressure on the tires? If so what were the readings. A couple of psi above does not harm you as I have found out after a similar experience. I would rather have a center tread wear on the tire rather than having bent rims every now and then.

Apart from center tread wear you will have poor grip too, might as well get the high profile tires that 200 gets.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ff1609

28psi (front wheel) was checked the same day.

The front is supposed to be 25 psi not 28 psi. The rear solo is supposed to be 28.5 psi (I round it off to 29).

Apart from center tread wear you will have poor grip too, might as well get the high profile tires that 200 gets.

I was not aware that the profile of the MRF Revz on the 200 were different to the Metzelers on the 390. I thought the dimension specs of the two tyres were identical. Can you please confirm?

[Freewheelin_KD]

A couple of days back, planning to take the bike for a ride, I cranked it and started rolling. As soon I crossed 3000 rpm, the bike just died and the display became blank. After a few seconds, the display did its start up sequence and then I cranked it again on the move and it came back to life. But this thing repeated itself in 2nd gear and then 3rd and so on every time I crossed 3000 rpm. After riding like this for a km, also observed that slight undulations on the road were causing the bike to shut off and sometimes the display, after going blank, would display a code looking like 'JG.1.19.X.XX'.

Thought that maybe the side stand sensor or the tilt sensor is acting up and then recalled incidents of a few members who faced this issue of the bike shutting off during riding. But mine was following a pattern of shutting off based on rpm or bumps on the road. With the nearest service center being 50 kms away, started troubleshooting myself by looking at the side stand connector and also tried starting the bike when tilted. I had removed the rear seat to look at the fuse box and while trying to start the bike when it was tilted, heard what sounded like a spark when I pressed the starter button. So I removed the front seat too and saw that the lead to the positive terminal of the battery had broken clean off.



It was being held in place by its outer rubber cover when the bike was stationary but the vibrations of the bike beyond 3000 rpm or during bumps would make it lose contact momentarily, shutting off the bike and resetting the display.




Being a Sunday, everything was closed so could not procure a similar metal connector. It was anyways time for my second service so used an electric tape to keep the lead in place and during the service, the service center replaced the lead along with a part of the wire with another one.

The bike is now running fine but the issue here is that a thing like this should not be happening in the first place. Bajaj / KTM should be using leads of a heavier gauge or should at least revise the design of the leads as the bend in the lead for aligning the wire and the battery terminal forms a weak spot for something which is a critical electrical connection. It was, however, good of the service center to replace the wire with another one free of cost.

[Bluu]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

It is the weather. On my return commute from work, even with good air flow through the radiator, the temperature bars stay steady at eight. Goes up to 9 when stationary, slow moving traffic. The heat is unbearable. It is not over heating for sure, just runs hot.

Do you suppose the humidity is a factor? I've found the bike runs hottest when the air is heavy. On the ride back into WFD from city, it maxed out the main temp gauge and even the seat started getting toasty.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by Bluu

Do you suppose the humidity is a factor?

Humidity levels are very low in bangy. Very dry weather.

It is hot air. The air around is hot due to high ambient temperature.

I've not seen the temperature max out in the first array. Your radiator probably needs a wash. Check coolant level too.

As I do the high way run, there is a lot of air flow. The heat gets to me at the KR Puram market area where at times I get stuck for a 60 second signal. The bike is idling away. Sometimes, the fan decides to turn the wrong way round causing hot air to come right at your legs.

[Bluu]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

Humidity levels are very low in bangy. Very dry weather.

It is hot air. The air around is hot due to high ambient temperature.

I've not seen the temperature max out in the first array. Your radiator probably needs a wash. Check coolant level too.

As I do the high way run, there is a lot of air flow. The heat gets to me at the KR Puram market area where at times I get stuck for a 60 second signal. The bike is idling away. Sometimes, the fan decides to turn the wrong way round causing hot air to come right at your legs.

The bike just got serviced (no oil change) so I'm guessing the radiator was washed but I'll give it another wash. The air was heavy the day I'm talking about. It rained a bit in WFD too. However, ambient temp, as you rightly point, does play a huge part and the usual jam at the base of the Marathalli flyover made the temps shoot up.

[lark63]

Originally Posted by Freewheelin_KD

A couple of days back, planning to take the bike for a ride, I cranked it and started rolling. As soon I crossed 3000 rpm, the bike just died and the display became blank. After a few seconds, the display did its start up sequence and then I cranked it again on the move and it came back to life. But this thing repeated itself in 2nd gear and then 3rd and so on every time I crossed 3000 rpm. After riding like this for a km, also observed that slight undulations on the road were causing the bike to shut off and sometimes the display, after going blank, would display a code looking like 'JG.1.19.X.XX'.

Thought that maybe the side stand sensor or the tilt sensor is acting up and then recalled incidents of a few members who faced this issue of the bike shutting off during riding. But mine was following a pattern of shutting off based on rpm or bumps on the road. With the nearest service center being 50 kms away, started troubleshooting myself by looking at the side stand connector and also tried starting the bike when tilted. I had removed the rear seat to look at the fuse box and while trying to start the bike when it was tilted, heard what sounded like a spark when I pressed the starter button. So I removed the front seat too and saw that the lead to the positive terminal of the battery had broken clean off.

Attachment 1230751

It was being held in place by its outer rubber cover when the bike was stationary but the vibrations of the bike beyond 3000 rpm or during bumps would make it lose contact momentarily, shutting off the bike and resetting the display.

Attachment 1230752
Attachment 1230753

Being a Sunday, everything was closed so could not procure a similar metal connector. It was anyways time for my second service so used an electric tape to keep the lead in place and during the service, the service center replaced the lead along with a part of the wire with another one.

The bike is now running fine but the issue here is that a thing like this should not be happening in the first place. Bajaj / KTM should be using leads of a heavier gauge or should at least revise the design of the leads as the bend in the lead for aligning the wire and the battery terminal forms a weak spot for something which is a critical electrical connection. It was, however, good of the service center to replace the wire with another one free of cost.

I had similar issue with the bike stalling. Almost three weeks back this issue was resolved. It was traced to Battery terminal connector breakage. It seems to have done the trick. In the last two weeks the problem has recurred at all. I am keeping my fingers crossed !

[Added_flavor]

Originally Posted by ff1609

28psi (front wheel) was checked the same day.

Your episode seems to involve simply jumping going over a speed breaker at high speed - that would not do anything to the rims. Mine went into a pothole about 6 inches deep.
.

This thing about tyre pressure breaking rims is truck loads of <you know what>.

Tyre pressure on my bike is checked very regularly and I maintain it 26 in the front and 30 on the rear. In spite of this, I hit a pothole in Bangalore as I was following a big vehicle and couldn't avoid the pothole when it appeared in front of me all of a sudden. And yes, I bent my rim!

Let's face it. On the pretext of reducing weight, they did not build Indian-road-worthy rims! As simple as that.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

This thing about tyre pressure breaking rims is truck loads of <you know what>.

Tyre pressure on my bike is checked very regularly and I maintain it 26 in the front and 30 on the rear. In spite of this, I hit a pothole in Bangalore as I was following a big vehicle and couldn't avoid the pothole when it appeared in front of me all of a sudden. And yes, I bent my rim!

Let's face it. On the pretext of reducing weight, they did not build Indian-road-worthy rims! As simple as that.

And let's face it, this is a uniquey 390 problem. Not affecting the 200s.

What could be the difference?

The rims different?

The tyres different?

The speed when bike hits pothole different?

I can't think of a 4th reason.

[Added_flavor]

Originally Posted by ebonho

And let's face it, this is a uniquey 390 problem. Not affecting the 200s.

The rims different?

Perhaps the rims are same as those on the 200 and they are unable to take in the added 15 Kilo weight of the 390!

Or maybe there's a different vendor for the 390 rims and the quality of rims coming through from this vendor is inferior compared to those on the 200.

The speed when bike hits pothole different?

Well my case was in the city and I wasn't doing more than 50 kmph surely. Also, even if it is attributed to the tyre pressure, I DO NOT think a variation of 2-3 PSI should damage your rims. Yes it might affect the tyre life and perhaps fuel consumption too, but surely shouldn't damage rims!

[ebonho]

I thought the 390 was just 9 kilos more than the 200 (130 vs 139)?

Anyways, you have 50+ kilo youngsters riding the Duke and you have 90+ dudes also riding the Dukes.

[The Pain]

Hi Guys,

Just returned from my 1st service from the Seawoods Navi Mumbai service center. Had the oil changed to Motul 300V 15W50. The bike runs extremely smooth with the 300v. Vibes are nearly non existant.

Had a question for all of you. I was under the assumption that during the 1st service, the rev limiter was raised to 9500-10500 RPM from the factory shipped 7500 RPMand that this is done by reprogramming the ECU during the service,

However, this was not done on my bike during the service and the guys there had no clue that they were supposed to do this either. I suspect they did not even have the tools to do so.

Can someone please clarify what is the correct procedure on this. When are they supposed to raise the rev limit?

Thanks

[sridhu]

Originally Posted by Added_flavor

This thing about tyre pressure breaking rims is truck loads of <you know what>.

Tyre pressure on my bike is checked very regularly and I maintain it 26 in the front and 30 on the rear. In spite of this, I hit a pothole in Bangalore as I was following a big vehicle and couldn't avoid the pothole when it appeared in front of me all of a sudden. And yes, I bent my rim!

Let's face it. On the pretext of reducing weight, they did not build Indian-road-worthy rims! As simple as that.

Low pressure could be ONE factor. May not be the only factor.

Like Doc said, speed could be another. AFAIK, the same rims do duty world wide.