[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

[url]In the post, as you can see from the pics, there are only 5 springs in the older model, not 6. So you cannot reduce the total number of springs to 3, because of the design, let alone think about the efficiency of such a reduction. You also cannot remove one, as this will cause asymmetrical loading

And the clutch is very soft, and you can operate with one finger.

Thanks mate! Was hoping you would respond, having seen the retro fitment and the moving parts with your own eyes.

I spoke with my trusty KTM mech and he too ridiculed the notion of removing springs to make the clutch lighter. He also took some time to explain the differences between a push & pull type clutch (former being the softer version). Will discuss this in further detail with him during my next service, due early Jan

But still, I could have sworn I read this on one of the Gixxer forums (US) where someone removed a spring or 2 and reported better clutch action (read significantly softer). I know one should not believe eveything on the net, hence put up a query here



Another query - Anyone tried lubing the clutch cable? Again, have read on multiple formus that this improves the clutch feel, life and ease of pulling it in substantially. Can anyone confirm?

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

I spoke with my trusty KTM mech and he too ridiculed the notion of removing springs to make the clutch lighter. He also took some time to explain the differences between a push & pull type clutch (former being the softer version).

Tension from springs is what holds the clutch plates together and transmitting the power. If you put in lesser springs, the clutch will slip easily and you'll end up with less power and burn the clutch plates way sooner.

You can experiment with a longer clutch lever and practise pressing it from the edges. Longer lever pressed from the edges will make the clutch easier to operate at the cost of increased clutch travel.I used R15 clutch lever on my RD350 which is longer by an inch, made my life much easier without changing anything else.

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Another query - Anyone tried lubing the clutch cable? Again, have read on multiple formus that this improves the clutch feel, life and ease of pulling it in substantially. Can anyone confirm?

That is a total jugaad way of doing things. Cables nowadays aren't supposed to be lubricated. If at all the cable's become hard, just change the cable.

[Urban_Nomad]

The idea is to possibly make the clutch lighter, thats all. Its fine if I cannot as its not crazy hard / deal breaker. But the reports of the new clutch being makkhhan got me thinking

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Tension from springs is what holds the clutch plates together and transmitting the power. If you put in lesser springs, the clutch will slip easily and you'll end up with less power and burn the clutch plates way sooner.

Got it

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

You can experiment with a longer clutch lever

Duke's levers are long enough. This would not work

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

That is a total jugaad way of doing things. Cables nowadays aren't supposed to be lubricated

Is it? Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing, this is the process I am referring to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JchVNpiaxtQ

I will also refer to the 390's manual to see if it says something about clutch cable lubrication

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

...
Cables nowadays aren't supposed to be lubricated. If at all the cable's become hard, just change the cable.

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

...
Is it? Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing, this is the process I am referring to:

https://www.Youtube.com/watch?v=JchVNpiaxtQ

I will also refer to the 390's manual to see if it says something about clutch cable lubrication

It's true - clutch cables are of the maintenance-free kind and are not designed to be re-lubricated. They are lubricated with a special grease at the factory, that's compatible with the low friction coating on the inner cable. Using the wrong lubricant will degrade that coating and make the cable harder.

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by barcalad

A pair? Usage is of just one bulb, right?

I initially wanted to go for AUX lamps, but am letting it be for sometime as my priority is to get the bike back on the road first. Until then, the Xtreme Vision shall suffice.

I had used xtreme vision before and it didn't improve much. How's your experience with it??

After the xtreme visions, I went for xenon lamps, but it gave a blueish tint, and an unfocused beam, which caused discomfort for those who were coming towards me. you have seen the xenon in my bike.

So I removed it and went for spread lamps. These are unbranded, Chinese ( I guess), 18 watts-Rs 1400 a piece, purchased from a trusted local store.

Check out the beam spread and brightness with and without the lamps.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

I had used xtreme vision before and it didn't improve much. How's your experience with it??

Excellent stuff right there, mate.

The Xtreme Vision has created a 10-15% change in visibility and spread. I wouldn't say I'm overjoyed by it. Compared it with a friend's stock Osrams last night and the Philips surely had more punch to it.

I initially wanted to go for the aux lamp setup, but I'm deferring that plan as I already have a dual horn setup and the hazard system, and I feel tampering too much with the electricals too much might just come back to haunt me later on. Moreover, since the bike was parked stationary all these days while I recovered, the SVC guy told me that the battery was not responding well and was at the 'low' level. No 'low battery' messages or auto dimming as of now. Fingers crossed! So, riding it as much as I can as of now!

[nasirkaka]

initially wanted to go for the aux lamp setup, but I'm deferring that plan as I already have a dual horn setup and the hazard system, and I feel tampering too much with the electricals too much might just come back to haunt me later on. Moreover, since the bike was parked stationary all these days while I recovered, the SVC guy told me that the battery was not responding well and was at the 'low' level. No 'low battery' messages or auto dimming as of now. Fingers crossed! So, riding it as much as I can as of now!

Even i was skeptical about the duke's battery capability, but can now vouch for its sturdiness. any bikes battery standing idle for long will discharge, unless tickle charged, but if the 390 is used regularly, the battery goes good for a long time. Sealed batteries are usually know to have shorted life span compared to the conventional batteries.

For the last 30,000 kms, and 2+ years, i have been using a Dual Hella Horn, a pair of Aux lights which are always on, be it day or night, + the OEM headlight at night and the stock battery is still holding good. I did not expect them to last so long. I have had a few electrical issues but none of them were directly related to the load on the battery. The battery is still as good as day one.

Also, low battery warning can be result of various possibilities. Issues with rotor coil, earthing problems, etc are a few things which can affect charging. May not necessarily mean the battery is gone weak. Do get it checked thoroughly.

[razorBlades]

The duke's rear wheel is always engaged is it? Even when i pull in the clutch, the wheel keeps rotating when on paddock.

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by razorBlades

The duke's rear wheel is always engaged is it? Even when i pull in the clutch, the wheel keeps rotating when on paddock.

I have experienced the same in many other bikes too. Don't know why. I thought it must be because of slight contact between the ctutch plates, even when the clutch is completely engaged. If you hold the wheel, you should not feel too much torque though.

[gharika]

Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan

I have experienced the same in many other bikes too. Don't know why. I thought it must be because of slight contact between the ctutch plates, even when the clutch is completely engaged. If you hold the wheel, you should not feel too much torque though.

Even if the clutch plates are not in contact, there will be oil between them leading to slight transfer of torque, so n paddock when there is no resistance, it is going to rotate.

[mithunvvijayan]

Originally Posted by gharika

Even if the clutch plates are not in contact, there will be oil between them leading to slight transfer of torque, so n paddock when there is no resistance, it is going to rotate.

That too is a reason I thought, but didn't risk mentioning it. But if the spring tension decreases over time or due to some defect, there is a possibility that the plates starts getting closer.

[b16h22]

For last one week or so I've been noticing the horn sounding weak at times. Also my speedo showed 0 for a few seconds once on my way to calicut two weeks ago. Are these the signs of my stator coil giving up slowly? I haven't checked my battery condition yet. Bike is regularly used. Still no low battery warning yet. Mine is a late 2013 model.

[barcalad]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Are these the signs of my stator coil giving up slowly?

Yes.

If your bike is under warranty (normal or extended), get the coil replaced as well as the speedo console.

I'm surprised at the high number of stator coil issues people are facing, especially in the past 1 month. It's been abnormal. Maybe it has a winter connection!

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by b16h22

For last one week or so I've been noticing the horn sounding weak at times. Also my speedo showed 0 for a few seconds once on my way to calicut two weeks ago. Are these the signs of my stator coil giving up slowly? I haven't checked my battery condition yet. Bike is regularly used. Still no low battery warning yet. Mine is a late 2013 model.

Get your battery checked using a multimeter bud. Literally a 10 second job.

Speedo turning zero intermittently at speed could be a fault with the meter itself like many here have reported. I too got mine changed under warranty and lost all the 13,500 odd kms I had clocked on mine

[anilp]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

I too got mine changed under warranty and lost all the 13,500 odd kms I had clocked on mine

Well, the issue still persists even after replacement. That's the experience with friends of my riding group. I'm yet to face the zero error, but I feel it's just a matter of time considering the odds.