Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Motorbikes (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/)

-   -   Two Orange Wheels : My KTM Duke 390 (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/142344-two-orange-wheels-my-ktm-duke-390-a-3.html)

I second that. great going Psycho. watching this thread closely clap:

Spent the morning fine tuning the flat spot and have it fixed. Now the burst past 6k rpm is even more stronger and almost instantaneous.

Took the liberty of backing off on the ignition while idling hopefully should help in lower temps while being stuck in heavy traffic. Will monitor this as time goes along.

Also dropped fuelling at the crank position and it did lead to quicker starts and lesser flooding...another coomplaint taken care of.

Just finished doing a hard run for 5 km started when the temp gauge was at 5 at the end of the run the gauge is at the halfway mark.

Starting to like the behaviour of the bike day by day I know I need more and will never get close to the fireblade with this one. However cranking the throttle on a single cylinder and managing a grunt like that is better fun in it's own way glad to have tools like the powertronic handy to be able to get there.

Had a test dyno pull at Race Dynamics today to see the difference the K&N and the PowerTronic has on the bike. The dyno curves are very conservative, however the accuracy of the numbers for the KTM duke was the highest compared to the Harley and the Bullet.

The stock bike pulled at 36 WHP and let the graph do the rest of the speaking. The stock is green and brown and the red and blue is for my setup.

Key issues noted post 8.5K RPM there are no significant gains as the exhaust still remains stock.

Good going psycho. Why is there a flat step in the initial in both the red and blue curves? The red curve is approximately 1-2 bhp gains over the stock curve from 5000 rpm onwards, and follows the general contour of the stock curve. Does this come at the expense of burning a lot more fuel (this is as I recall with the after market filter right)? Just asking from a touring perspective. Have you tried shortening/removing the snorkel leading to the airbox, and/or reshaping its intake? Holes in the airbox is another trick the 690 guys do.

That has to do with the cam profiles, I too would have expected a bump up there.

Interestingly not much, and yes it is with an aftermarket filter. However note that this is wheel hp and the gains on the engine will be higher.


Yes, and I gave up as soon as you remove the snorkel / drill holes basically increase airflow you end up with a significant drop in the initial torque. Post 8K RPM both the intake and exhaust are too restrictive in the stock form. Will need to do a lot more R&D :Frustrati

On my Baby Duke 222 thread, we had cut the snorkel to around just 2.5 inches with the mouth shaped downwards with a slice cut (like a Harley straight pipe's end). The bike used to rev much cleaner and I do not recall any significant (if at all) dropping of the initial pull. The only reason I got back a new snorkel and top lid for my air box was because I read that it messed with the air pulses (something to do with harmonics and snorkel tuned length) and the service head felt that in our climate with all the dust, the direct route to the airbox and filter increased greatly the dust/grit load and the eventual chances of the small bits eventually getting through to the engine. But the sound and the reviness was pretty addictive! :thumbs up As was the instant throttle response.

Check out this blog which has also posted dyno figures. It reports 42.8hp at the wheel
http://bikesonsky.blogspot.in/2013/0...-remember.html

Original article in french
http://www.moto-station.com/article1...sters-a2-.html

I have brought this to the notice of Race Dynamics.

Did some reasearch on google about this and most bikes report a 10 to 15 % loss at the rear wheel on the dyno. So in that sense the results you posted seem more accurate. Please check if rear brake calipers are not in constant touch with the disc and also stiffen the rear suspension if you are going to put it on the dyno again.

None of those issues are there as it is my daily driver

For the last couple of days I have been using the Moxi shorty levers and here is my feedback on the same.

1) Clutch lever: Needs a lot of readjusting, need to remove the clutch switch and mount the lever. The cable needs to be completely loosened to fit it. Also had to move the levers outwards to position it right. Verdict: too hard on the fingers leaves me with an aching hand post a 45 minute heavy traffic ride. however quality of the lever is quite good.

2) Brake lever: not a direct fit as the piston that goes into the brake reservoir is long and locks the front brake. Need to grind it down for it work properly. The pin was grounded a bit extra leading to it being soft and progressive. Requires to use 2 fingers but again not satisfied overall will roll back to the stock ones till I can find something better.

Have not put updates in a while so here are some pics instead with some stickering done on the bike

Few more dyno pulls with the PowerTronic :) , now I need a good exhaust. Also they have now officially launched the PowerTronic for the 390 on their website

Keshav,

Does 15K make sense for a 2HP increase? I'm not bashing the product. Just trying to get some insight from someone who has it installed. Is the real world performance proportional to the cost of the PowerTronic?

Cheers!

I have even read that in most cases 2-3 BHP increase is not even noticeable by the layman.
Also has your rev limit changed?