[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

A few moments back, Amun-Ra achieved the 40K mark.

Attachment 1623697

43000 on the ODO in 8 months. Amun-Ra definitely needs more of my company.



Someone had advised earlier that one of the reasons for dim lights and no horns is because of the inadequate earthing. This problem is most probably at the headlight section. I will have to spend some time in locating and black taping the wires.

[Vikvkv]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

43000 on the ODO in 8 months. Amun-Ra definitely needs more of my company.



Attachment 1698075



Someone had advised earlier that one of the reasons for dim lights and no horns is because of the inadequate earthing. This problem is most probably at the headlight section. I will have to spend some time in locating and black taping the wires.

That's unbelievable mileage. 8 months - roughly 248 days odo at 43000 kms that equates to around 170 kms everyday. Amun RA must be loving you. How is the bike holding itself and how are the vibrations

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Vikvkv

That's unbelievable mileage. 8 months - roughly 248 days odo at 43000 kms that equates to around 170 kms everyday. Amun RA must be loving you. How is the bike holding itself and how are the vibrations

Hahaha. That was from the last post of March 2017. Amun-Ra was purchased in October 2013 and is going strong and steady.

[Majumdarda]

Some quality time spent with my Amun-Ra in cleaning him from the grease and oil marks. Diesel works wonder along with a small nylon brush.





While cleaning I observed that many of the rubber hoses are near to the end of their life, mainly the following :- [Odometer reading 43xxx]

1. Breather Pipe. (Part Number : 584667/B, INR: 98)
2. Pav Hose - Air Filter (Part Number : 573984/A, INR: 209)
3. VB 51 - Tube Air filter. (Part Number : 581320/C, INR: 2253)

A quick visit to the nearest service center helped me in procuring these and I could successfully replace 1 and 2. For Replacing 1, there is no need to remove the seat, but since I had to replace 2 as well, so removing seat and fuel tank are the only options and it works out pretty easy.

3 seems ok at this moment but I wish to replace the same as well, only that I am not able to figure out clearly how to remove it easily from the non-carburetor end.



Observe the circled portion. There goes the Pav Hose Air Filter. Pretty easy to replace; but one has to remove the seat and the fuel tank. The other end of this pipe is under the fuel tank.

A closer view of the wear and tear



And this is the final image after replacing both the pipes.



Apparently all the rubber hoses and pipes needs replacement. But I am not sure what are they called and its not possible to dismantle at the service station just to show them some pipes.

Probably my bible should be able to help me out. Another weekend slot has to be booked to cater to the needs of my Amun-Ra.

Please be advised that while cleaning the grime and dirt with diesel, make sure that you do not touch parts where lubrication is required, like the chain.

Can anyone please help me with the most appropriate 15W50 Engine oil recommended for 500 CC bullet, other than the Liquid Gun, but non synthetic. I had referred the Amazon, but got confused with the available options and user reviews.

P.s. I am observing a steadiness in the idling of Amun-Ra. Earlier I used to observe a sudden hush-hush sound, as if some air is coming out and the idling would stop. This is gone now. Amun-Ra even idles away happily with its headlights on.

Another issue is with the Headlight wiring. I did not change the bulbs or anything, but for some strange reasons, whenever headlight is ON, horn refuses to work and infact it kills the ignition. With just the tiger lamps, the horns work, but not strong enough. I suspect there is some sort of leakage happening in that dome as I had removed it once and had observed the bulb's wire broken and shorted. This needs some thorough attention. Has anyone faced it? If yes, what's the solution?

[adrian]

@ Majumdarda :What made you throw off your resonance box ? How is the motorcycle without the resonance box ? Any increase in intake sound ?

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by adrian

@ Majumdarda :What made you throw off your resonance box ? How is the motorcycle without the resonance box ? Any increase in intake sound ?

Resonance box! I didn't get that adrian. Can you please post an image of what you are hinting at? I am not aware of anything that I have thrown off

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Resonance box! I didn't get that adrian. Can you please post an image of what you are hinting at? I am not aware of anything that I have thrown off

There should be a box sitting between the carb and the air filter which is the resonance box. In this case, it looks like the intake pipe directly connects the air filter to the carb.
The holder for the box and screws can be seen in your photo.

[Ameya Janvekar]

The resonance box was utilised for the old CI Bullets. The UCE do not have a resonance box. The Air Filter box connects direct to the carburetor or throttle body depending on the model. The cover either square or oval is just that - a cover.

[The Great]

Originally Posted by Ameya Janvekar

The resonance box was utilised for the old CI Bullets. The UCE do not have a resonance box. The Air Filter box connects direct to the carburetor or throttle body depending on the model. The cover either square or oval is just that - a cover.

It has a small box behind the oval cover to keep toolbox / documents.

[Majumdarda]

Oh yes, that box. Yes I very much have the same. But what has happened is that, other than the screws there is a third hinge point where this box locks itself. Initially it used to have some sort of rubber like substance so that the metal surfaces do not make sound. But that rubber is gone now resulting in an irritating metallic sound. I have thus taken off that cover. I have managed to get a piece of rubber tube and planning to have that attached so that the mettallic sound can be avoided.

Here is the cover. Its very much in place, but in my Kwid these days.



The other side is used to hold the extra fuses that I carry along.



With regards to the engine oil, I referred an old post from ArizonaJim and its advised to use Motul 5100 15W50. Amazon had some offers on this (477 per liter) Would keep a lookout for next sell post.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Ameya Janvekar

The resonance box was utilised for the old CI Bullets. The UCE do not have a resonance box. The Air Filter box connects direct to the carburetor or throttle body depending on the model. The cover either square or oval is just that - a cover.

The UCE Standards still have the resonance boxes. I think they have discontinued the use of resonance boxes in the classic 350s and 500s.

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

With regards to the engine oil, I referred an old post from ArizonaJim and its advised to use Motul 5100 15W50. Amazon had some offers on this (477 per liter) Would keep a lookout for next sell post.

The engine oil recommended for prior to 2012 UCE Royal Enfields (I am talking w.r.t the advise in my 350 owners manual) is the Motul 3000 4T Plus 15 W 50 API SL/SM Grade Jaso MA/MA2, which is a mineral oil.

I think you mentioned the need for a non synthetic oil and Motul 5100 is a synthetic oil.

[ArizonaJim]

I believe oils in regular, semi-synthetic and full synthetic are available which meet the recommended "15 W 50 API SL/SM Grade Jaso MA/MA" requirements.

My 2011 500cc UCE powered Royal Enfield Owners Manual recommends using a Semi-synthetic oil.

That is not excluding the use of regular oil that meets the specified requirements. Regular motor oil can be used but if it is, I strongly recommend changing it often.

I much prefer the full synthetic oils, especially for a air cooled engine.

Air cooled engines like the Royal Enfield uses can get localized hot spots which can break down the regular motor oil leading to "coking" (the formation of carbon deposits).
These hard carbon deposits can cause things like piston rings sticking and buildups on the hot surfaces. As the buildups break off they contaminate the oil and this can lead to wear on all moving parts .

The Synthetic oils are much more resistant to break down due to heat than regular motor oil so these potential problems are greatly reduced if it is used.

That, among other things is why I strongly suggest using the full synthetic oils.

Getting back to Royal Enfields recommendation about using a semi-synthetic oil, with the scheduled oil change interval they specify, the "semi" oil can do the job.

The problem (IMO) is, there is no standard for semi-synthetic oil that I am aware of.
It can be 50% full synthetic and 50% regular oil or it can be 3% synthetic and 97% regular oil. The oil companies don't tell you what the mix ratio is so your left wondering if you use one of these types of oils.
That's why I don't recommend them but will add, if you do use a semi-synthetic oil, buy it from a high class major oil company.

When all is said and done, IMO the cost of buying a good synthetic oil is not that great when one compares it with the fuel cost or insurance costs and speaking of insurance, buying the best oil you can get is one form of engine insurance.

A full synthetic oil insures that your engine will last for a long time.

[Majumdarda]

Just observed a few days back that the last servicing of my Amun-Ra at the service center was somewhere around the February of 2017. After that we got the Kwid and commuting on Amun-Ra decreased a lot, to the extent that only 5126 kilometers for the period from Feb 2017 till March 2018.

Nevertheless, Amun-Ra needed some new oil and so was gifted with the Motul 15W50, mineral oil. The Technosynthese version is not available locally here. Cost of 2.5l of oil at the center was rupees 700. Add to that the cost of the filter (93) and service charges (50), the total cost came to around 843.

It seems that with the age of the silencer, it needs to be replaced as irritating metallic sound is coming from it. Would either go with the same stock version or the RE approved up-swept version that was provided with the Classics. Needs to be seen what gels well with Amun-Ra!

Also probably its time for a new battery as the ignition just kills itself, the moment the lights or horns are turned on, but there is no leakage in the wiring. Can anything else be the culprit here or battery replacement is the sole solution?

Also I am required to figure out on how to fix the tube air filter that I bought the last time paying around 2253. That one surely looks daunting at the other end.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Nevertheless, Amun-Ra needed some new oil and so was gifted with the Motul 15W50, mineral oil. The Technosynthese version is not available locally here. Cost of 2.5l of oil at the center was rupees 700. Add to that the cost of the filter (93) and service charges (50), the total cost came to around 843.

There are cheaper and better oils available, the Shell AX5 20W50 is available now at 277/liter.

Presuming that you're bothered about using 20W instead of 15W, here's a chart that will help put you at ease.

It seems that with the age of the silencer, it needs to be replaced as irritating metallic sound is coming from it. Would either go with the same stock version or the RE approved up-swept version that was provided with the Classics. Needs to be seen what gels well with Amun-Ra!

Keep it stock, up-swept exhaust bumps up low end torque but seriously restricts the top end, which is only good if you live up a hill. Had the misfortune of riding alongside a Classic 350 with up-swept from Kerala to Bangalore.



The motorcycle wasn't able to keep 80+ for long as it felt like it would explode. And I was stuck crawling in 4th gear behind it

Also probably its time for a new battery as the ignition just kills itself, the moment the lights or horns are turned on, but there is no leakage in the wiring. Can anything else be the culprit here or battery replacement is the sole solution?

The DC CDI needs battery power to run, change your battery at 3 year intervals, waiting for it to act up wont end good, especially if you're into interstate runs.

Also I am required to figure out on how to fix the tube air filter that I bought the last time paying around 2253. That one surely looks daunting at the other end.

Are you referring to a free flow pod filter? If so I'd suggest you get rid of it. Trust me, I know better.

[ArizonaJim]

I'm not sure I have confidence in the oil vs temp chart shown above.
The single viscosity oils upper limits should be close to the multi-grade oils if the second number in the multi-grade oil is the same as the single grade oil. That is, the upper temperature of a 10w-40 oil should be close to the upper temperature of a 40 weight oil.

I believe this chart is a bit closer to the actual viscosity vs temperature values.

IMO, the 10w-50 or 15w-50 oils historically have been satisfactory at ambient temperatures of 46° C.
I think this is the reason Royal Enfield specifies a 15w-50 semi-synthetic oil in the UCE owners manual.