[rahuldongre]

Originally Posted by rahuldongre

Hello Majumadarda
Can you help me find a good mechanic-Workshop in Pune. I stay in Baner and am closing a deal on a pre-owned 2015 Std 500 Green color., done only 7K on ODO.
Will need to do few improvements after I buy it. Am looking for a mechanic who is technically sound and passionate.
Thanks in advance : )

Hello Amun Ra,

Can we connect pls.
I am at rahuldongre@gmail.com

Thanks

Rahul

[Majumdarda]

Amun-Ra crossed 500 kilometers on the Odo and honoring the occasion, its time for a session with Oil massage etc. Also I am replacing the front rim, since my past Ladakh trip had a heavy toll on the front rim (Rear is fine, but I will have the alignment re-checked) Would also flush out the mineral oil and have Semi-synthetic this time (Motul 15W50). All geared up for the Rider Mania 2022

[Majumdarda]

The rim has been replaced and I am glad that this has been replaced with time in hand. Wonder what is the condition of the other one, but externally there is no damage observed.

[Majumdarda]

Amun-Ra came back from the year's pilgrimage (Rider Mania 2022). We had started from Pune on the 17th and were back in Pune by the 21st. More on this has been updated in the Rider Mania 2022 pages. A few worthy mentions would be as follows:

• Amun-Ra is still very much capable of managing and maintaining speeds in excess of 100Kmph. Though this is not something advisable and I had to take the entire 18th off my bullet to ease up my hand. Obviously, riding with the 650CCs with 47BHPs, Amun-Ra with its massive 26BHP, seemed a tad subtle.
  
• The road toward Goa was BAU and it has not changed a bit. While returning, interacting with the locals helped us with a new single road with an excellent surface, where one can maintain a decent speed. This road goes through a few villages and jungles and was a pleasant experience to drive through.
  
• Vibrations caused one of the Horn metal plates to break off from the joint. I did check with the RE servicing at Goa and was advised that I need to take the entire set of two as the metal plates come attached to the horn (Said that it has something to do with the right level of resonance).
  
• While performing the servicing before the trip, I observed oil drops. I was informed that this was because of the excessive chain oiling. Something I did not buy but could not reject as well. Coming back I understand that oil is indeed dropping off and I now need someone to check and advise from where are the drips happening. The drain bolt might be the culprit, but somehow I think that the oil is seeping from some other place and then dripping from the drain bolt surface.

I have a bash plate attached and therefore cannot clean the entire bottom properly. The bash plate though can be removed at home but then the fact that one of the support mounts is at a very odd position, I will have to have this removed (for closer inspection) at my technician's.

On the 27th, After I noticed the oil drops, I cleaned up the bottom pushing in the cloth to the extent possible.



On the 28th, I observed oil drops and on inspection from bottom, I observed a reverse mountain forming up.



Though the initial suspicion is of a loose bolt, but this morning I observed that the drops are forming at the sides of the bolt. Also when I wriggled my finger around, they touched clean oil from surfaces away from the bolt.



This makes me suspect that the oil leak is happening from some other point. Might be from the section where the strainer is located as it was removed and then reattached or from the other bolt up north, from where around 150ML had come out. A complete flush of the engine oil had been performed before filling up with the Semi-synthetic, which is now dripping merrily. Good that I have around 600ML still with me, something which I intend to top up before taking Amun-Ra to the hermit

Just Noticed that Amun-Ra had a sweet rub on its bottom too

[Majumdarda]

Source of oil leak identified and it's the O ring which needs to be replaced.

[Majumdarda]

Below is an image of the O-ring that remains connected to the Kick shaft. Notice the wear and tear on this piece.



I was not expecting that these rubber O-rings have a metal underlying layer. Quite a design aspect I must say . Obviously, this is used to increase strength.



The machine parts with all their cuts and grooves are serious works of art and synchronization. So many intricacies to achieving the tandem





I was also informed that the Fuel pump O-ring has become hard and needs to be replaced. But since I did not get a piece from a sealed pack, I have postponed the work for the next visit, and keeping my fingers crossed.



Questions:

1. Does RE have any specific part number which will consist of all these various O-rings. The intention is to have them all in one place so that they can be used as and when required.
   
2. I was informed that the threading of the main drain bolt is becoming bald at the beginning and therefore rethreading would be needed, the next time bolt is removed. Is there any other "justifiable" way to achieve this(that is without rethreading or replacing the entire chamber)?

As I have not observed any more oil drops, I am concluding that the issue has been resolved with correct cause identification.

[rambharat]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Below is an image of the O-ring that remains connected to the Kick shaft. Notice the wear and tear on this piece.

Attachment 2386775

I was not expecting that these rubber O-rings have a metal underlying layer. Quite a design aspect I must say . Obviously, this is used to increase strength.

Attachment 2386776

The machine parts with all their cuts and grooves are serious works of art and synchronization. So many intricacies to achieving the tandem

Attachment 2386774

Attachment 2386773

I was also informed that the Fuel pump O-ring has become hard and needs to be replaced. But since I did not get a piece from a sealed pack, I have postponed the work for the next visit, and keeping my fingers crossed.

Attachment 2386772

Questions:

1. Does RE have any specific part number which will consist of all these various O-rings. The intention is to have them all in one place so that they can be used as and when required.
2. I was informed that the threading of the main drain bolt is becoming bald at the beginning and therefore rethreading would be needed, the next time bolt is removed. Is there any other "justifiable" way to achieve this(that is without rethreading or replacing the entire chamber)?

As I have not observed any more oil drops, I am concluding that the issue has been resolved with correct cause identification.

Thanks a lot for such detailed posts. Your post and reviews helped me a lot in the purchase of my Bullet STD 500 3 years back. I have one specific query though, during my scheduled service, the mechanic told that the rear tyre needs to be replaced. Its a 120/80-18 profile. I am looking at some options to replace it. Going for tubeless this time. I have shortlisted CEAT GRIPP XL 120/80-18 GRIPP XL TL 62P Tubeless Bike Tyre and Apollo Tramplr XR, are they good enough for Bangalore roads and the occasional off road trips ? Any suggestions for other brands is also welcome.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by rambharat

...I have shortlisted CEAT GRIPP XL 120/80-18 GRIPP XL TL 62P Tubeless Bike Tyre and Apollo Tramplr XR, are they good enough for Bangalore roads and the occasional off road trips ? ...

Thank you for dropping by. I do not think Bangalore roads are so bad that one is tempted to think in lines button-type tires.

But jokes apart, why are you going for the Tubeless one? B500 has still spokes and you get exact same specification with a tubed tire from GripXL. In fact, I am using myself. If your decision is solely on the basis of puncture avoidance, probably there is the least I can do to change your mind. But somehow I am not convinced that a radial tire would not invite other issues, for example with stability, etc. One thing is for sure a manufacturer does innumerable tests and suggests a combination based on optimal usage. Yes, we do end up modding things, but many a time they are hardly worth the effort and the effect.

During my recent Ladakh trip, I have seen guys using simple Zappers and gaining excellent traction. Might be that will be a challenge at Zanskar, but that's for another league. Once upon a time, a roadside puncture repair individual had suggested maintaining ideal tire pressure and having it checked once in a fortnight. I try to maintain that and have never observed issues. His logic was pretty simple. If the tire loses pressure then the inner soft side (between the threads) comes in contact with the surface of the road and that is when the puncture usually happens. I am not bothered to think about the logic behind that, but it seemed a quite sensible explanation, and have been sticking to that henceforth.

I am sorry if I could not agree with your line of thought but I seriously doubt if a radial steel rim will be able to give you the satisfaction one expects. The concern I have is over the radial rim not the TL Tire. A word of caution would be not to go with the jugaad way of fixing a TL tire on a rim spoke as that combination simply does not work out in long run and poses more risks.

[rambharat]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Thank you for dropping by. I do not think Bangalore roads are so bad that one is tempted to think in lines button-type tires.

But jokes apart, why are you going for the Tubeless one? B500 has still spokes and you get exact same specification with a tubed tire from GripXL. In fact, I am using myself. If your decision is solely on the basis of puncture avoidance, probably there is the least I can do to change your mind. But somehow I am not convinced that a radial tire would not invite other issues, for example with stability, etc. One thing is for sure a manufacturer does innumerable tests and suggests a combination based on optimal usage. Yes, we do end up modding things, but many a time they are hardly worth the effort and the effect.

During my recent Ladakh trip, I have seen guys using simple Zappers and gaining excellent traction. Might be that will be a challenge at Zanskar, but that's for another league. Once upon a time, a roadside puncture repair individual had suggested maintaining ideal tire pressure and having it checked once in a fortnight. I try to maintain that and have never observed issues. His logic was pretty simple. If the tire loses pressure then the inner soft side (between the threads) comes in contact with the surface of the road and that is when the puncture usually happens. I am not bothered to think about the logic behind that, but it seemed a quite sensible explanation, and have been sticking to that henceforth.

I am sorry if I could not agree with your line of thought but I seriously doubt if a radial steel rim will be able to give you the satisfaction one expects. The concern I have is over the radial rim not the TL Tire. A word of caution would be not to go with the jugaad way of fixing a TL tire on a rim spoke as that combination simply does not work out in long run and poses more risks.

Thanks a lot for the quick reply. I am infact trying to change the rims also to alloy ones. On a not so serious note, bangalore roads are as bad as Ladakh i guess ( atleast in my area) , i have faced multiple punctures on my rear wheel and each time its a hassle to take it to the mechanic's shop.

I was infact looking for a rim/tubeless type combo, but it seems the budget for both tyres will be around 20k. That's why the dilemma.

[Gordon]

Nice thread Majumdarda! I'm curious to know how you maintain the shine on the engine casing. Do your regularly get it buffed? Tips please.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Gordon

Nice thread Majumdarda! I'm curious to know how you maintain the shine on the engine casing. Do your regularly get it buffed? Tips please.

Hi, I had it buffed only once after I took the delivery. Last year I had bought autosol but after gaining considerable biceps, understood it's not my cup of tea that way. I do try to rub off the engine casing with a soft cloth once I complete any ride, had read somewhere that water particles make the shine dull.

[TurboLag200]

Nice read, quick question have you faced any serious issues with the B500 after all these years of ownership ?

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by TurboLag200

Nice read, quick question have you faced any serious issues with the B500 after all these years of ownership ?

Hi,
I am not able to recollect any major issues that cropped up all of a sudden, TouchWood! What I have observed though is that hardly you will get any technician who knows AtoZ of servicing a Royal Enfield, properly. And this is when the issues crop up. Also there is another breed who always suggest to replace anything and everything, needed or not! To top it, this breed usually does not know how to fix the parts properly too.

[TurboLag200]

But you should be able to easily find a good garage that works on bullets and go ahead with their expertise right. I mean its been in the market for so long you'd expect almost everyone to know how to work on one.

[ReventonLover]

Originally Posted by rambharat

Thanks a lot for such detailed posts. Your post and reviews helped me a lot in the purchase of my Bullet STD 500 3 years back. I have one specific query though, during my scheduled service, the mechanic told that the rear tyre needs to be replaced. Its a 120/80-18 profile. I am looking at some options to replace it. Going for tubeless this time. I have shortlisted CEAT GRIPP XL 120/80-18 GRIPP XL TL 62P Tubeless Bike Tyre and Apollo Tramplr XR, are they good enough for Bangalore roads and the occasional off road trips ? Any suggestions for other brands is also welcome.

The factory set of MRF does a solid job as well. I have taken my Classic 500 through its fair share of good and bad roads, and it has remained strong where other tubeless tyres have failed. I used the rear tyres almost up to the carcass (some 65k kms) with both me and the pillion being hefty riders. You might want to stick to the same formula. I lived in Indiranagar till a couple of months ago, and the tyres handled the nad roads there pretty well.