[Rennjit]

Does the clamps help in fixing stays or mounts the guard directly (like machismo)? i should probably wait, let works progress and see

It'd be good to have a clutch lever matching brake's profile, Oe combination is more of a jugaad & i believe it still comes so. And that kicker lever is confusing, looks more like a 4S lever. hope its correct, if yes i'd like one.

cheers..

[ilangop]

It has always been a regret that RE 350 does not have a tachometer unlike the thunderbird. And fitting a tacho is more of understanding what it needs. You can go for a tacho used in any other motorcycle like a Pulsar (old models) / Thunderbird / Fiero, etc. You get the tacho with a case for a Thunderbird & Fiero. For Thunderbird fuel guage is a bonus.
If you don't find those, but you can manage to procure a car tachometer for 4/6/8 cylinders still it is possible without any major modifications.

1) Option 1 - Connecting a motorcycle tacho to a bullet (FOR TCI IGNITION ONLY).
These tachometers need 1 pulse per revolution of crankshaft for showing the right reading. Refer to the first figure (Tacho I/p from TCI). A multimeter comes very handy now (if you don't have access to the wiring diagram). One of the wires carries +12V as soon as you key on. You don't need that, or use it to power the tacho with +12V. The other wire goes to kill switch and also to the TCI. This is the signaling port for a single cylinder tahco. Splice this wire a little, tap an extra wire and connect it to the signaling point in the new tacho.

2) Option 2 - A petrol car tacho for bullet.
These tachometers need 2 or 3 or 4 pulses per crank revolution for 4 / 6 / 8 cylinder options. Here you need a little of soldering expertise. Refer to Figure 2. Prepare a single phase bridge rectifier across any of the 2 yellow wires from the stator. Do not add a capacitor after the bridge. The output pulses will have the same frequency as the number of magnetic poles in your maget rotor.
For example you magnet for 4 pole pieces (2 North & 2 South), The output from the diode bridge will have 4 pulses per crank revolution. So set the tachometer for the 8 cylidner option.
What if your generator has 6 poles? The bridge rectified output will have 6 pulses per revolution which corresponds to a 12 cylinder option, which you dont normally find in a low cost car tacho. So, just follow what you see in figure 3 and set the tacho in 3 cylinder mode.
The above explanation is common for any 2 wheeler. You don't need the bridge rectifier if there is already an AC output from your alternator like in a Pulsar UG3 & below. Set the tacho to as many pole-pairs (NOT POLES) as you see in your Magnet.


3) Option 3. I tried this yesterday, but again I will have to wait till the engine is bolted on to the chassis frame and started.

As I had the stator plate in hand, I was just curious to know how well option 3 can work. With this, there is no need for diodes and rectifiers.
Purchased 10 meters of 27 gauge varnished copper wire and started winding around over and above the existing stator coils. The Electra has a 12 pole – 3 phase alternator. Which means every 3rd coil is of the same phase. One can simple start winding from any convenient place. Just note that the all windngs need to be of the same orientation – means if you had started clockwise, then retain the same convention for other 3 coils also. Solder 1 end of the new copper wire to body ground at the ting clamp that holds the bunch of yellow wires exiting the startor. Luckily there was a small hole in this clamp, into which I had inserted 1 end of copper wire and soldered.
Again, Luck was on my side. The rubber grommet had an unused extra hole through which I had inserted this thin blue wire (as seen in the picture) and routed it into the black sleeve. This was soldered to the free end of the new copper wire, and secured it with a rubber sleeve. Some Araldite was poured over the coils and the sleeve so that they don’t move or dislodged while dipped in oil and the magneto spins.
Time for some physics… As the 6 pole generator of the engine spins, there will be 3 complete waves appearing at the blue wire. I plan to feed this into the tachometer while setting it to 6 cylinder mode. Also a parallel wire will be tapped from here and passed on to the Bajaj Pulsar BCU, so that it does not turn off the hedlamp after 5 – 10 seconds.

[ilangop]

The engine has been assembled as per standard specs with a new 350cc cylinder, piston & head with new valves. As planned, and after brain storming with various options to fit a BS carburetor in the CI 350 engine under the constraint that the length of the carburetor mouth from the engine head has to be minimal, the following was executed.
1. The UCE 350 carb flange - Needed some machining to match the holes. But the flange was too thick and the nuts holding it would foul with the rubber pipe. So it was dropped
2. Avenger 220 flange - Again needs more Aluminium welding. Still the same problem as above.
3. This was the one that became more feasible - A CI 500 carburetor flange.
The existing mounting holes were sealed with Aluminium welding. New holes were drilled for 6mm bolt (against the 8mm standard size).
As provision was O-ring was also machined for proper sealing, still a paper gasket will be needed.
A Helicoil was inserted into the M8X1.0 mm hole in the engine head. This item brought down the threads from M8X1.0 mm to M6X1.0 mm.
We had also made a countersink in the flange so that a M6X1.0 Countersunk bolt would sit flush and wouldn't protrude out as in the case of a stud & nut.
Attached some pictures for your reference & comments.
-Ilango

[ilangop]

As the painter notoriously delays his commitment, we were working at our end on things which we can from home. After some 15 days of waiting the Classic 500 handlebar has arrived.
The left side grip was too tight. As I did in my Lambretta restorations, left the left side hand grip in warm water for some time and slid it into the handlebar with ease. Mounting the Pulsar switches needed some measurements, patience and drilling.
The locating notches in Pulsar Switches are on the underside while in Bullet they are on the upper side itself. And this is what was done.
1) Applied masking tape around the pipe across the switch area
2) Marked a line running along the existing locating hole
3) Marked the centre point in the upper half of Pulsar switch cover
4) Applied some ink in the locating notch in the lower half of Pulsar switch
5) Held the switch tight at the place & orientation as it should be. This left a round dot in the masking tape on the underside of the handlebar pipe
6) Hammered a sharp mark at the centre of this dot and drilled a 5mm hole.
That's it and the switch was perfectly mounted.
Meanwhile we had also checked the wiring harness for its functionality with its switches and all lamps. Sorry, haven't clicked its picture though.
Has anyone tried the UCE350 TCI unit in a CI 350 engine?
Hoping to receive all the painted parts in a day or two.

[rangan]

nice detailed post. i recently got most of this done on my 2005 4S Electra as well.

[ilangop]

The painted parts have arrived. 120/80/18 rear tyres & 90/90/19 tyres for front have been fitted. Both tyres (with tube & fitment charges) from MRF together costed Rs 4160/-.
The 2" tachometer bought by us did not have a water proof housing. So we had do devise our own from 2 old fuel meters from scrap yard.
As seen from the pictures, all 3 parts have to be glued / welded / somehow joined together for a single long water proof metal housing with a chrome ring.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by rangan

nice detailed post. i recently got most of this done on my 2005 4S Electra as well.

That's nice. Please share a few pics of your modified Electra.

[Rennjit]

Those are an interesting list of mods you are doing, esp the tacho- pulse pickup. Thanks for sharing the detailed posts, glad to know you are good with electronic trickery which is all black art for me.

Any benefit in going for Uce 350 Tci transplant ? after all, its the old CI motor which will make you go LoL seeing the lazy tacho needle.

cheers..

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Those are an interesting list of mods you are doing, esp the tacho- pulse pickup. Thanks for sharing the detailed posts, glad to know you are good with electronic trickery which is all black art for me.
Any benefit in going for Uce 350 Tci transplant ?
cheers..

Thanks Rennjit. The UCE TCI unit is equipped with a Throttle position switch which toggles the ignition advance map when you flip throttle beyond 40% (as per the manual). This helps in improving acceleration & emissions. Just to confirm if the base timings of the CI & UCE are the same I tested the CI TCI unit on a friend's UCE350 & it worked. Only the advance curves might have been tweaked a bit, but I don't think that should be a trouble with CI & a CV carburetor. This confirms RE is not up for any drastic change from version to version.

after all, its the old CI motor which will make you go LoL seeing the lazy tacho needle.

Yes, that's true. Luckily this was tacho intended to be used in a car and hence didn't have readings beyond 8000 rpm. Else the needle would have moved hardly beyond 20 degrees even at full throttle & no load.

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by rangan

nice detailed post. i recently got most of this done on my 2005 4S Electra as well.

rangan my 2004 4S Electra is currently undergoing a make over a new paint job,some chroming and I am throwing in a disc brake kit for the front. It would be of great help if you can post a few pics of your Electra.

[ilangop]

While I had been out of station my colleague Ravi who owns the bullet has been busy handing over painted parts & proceeded with the assembly. As of now majority of the assembly has been done. All the parts of front side of the bike has been mounted. The new learning was that the mudguard supporting stay was different in CI Electra & Classic 350. The lower mounting point was a little short of length. After brainstorming he decided that the long arm from the Electra stay will be cut & welded with the new piece. To ensure proper fit & finish the welder was brought to the work shop and the fittings were tacked in their proper positions. The welded had done a good job, and the painter has sprayed it red matching the vehicle colour.
The gladdest part is that the engine was maiden fired with twin spark setup and CV carburetor. One could notice 2 sparkplug leads from the Santro Ignition coil. On the downside, the carburetor seems to sit straight underneath the fuel tank mounting boss. Ravi has thought of using a longer connecting hose between intake flange & carb and get rid of the resonator. He has the UCE500 oval box which will occupy the place of resonator. The UCE500 EFI air hose will connect the filter box directly to the mouth of the carburetor. The most eagerly awaited pictures follow.

[Rennjit]

Did you ever consider a Uce barrel & head transplant ? its looking pretty Classic otherwise. Btw you could change those rockers to aluminum block Samrat for good - even the Uce has similar ones & also may not require the Pav junk anymore with twinspark i hope.
Pls post a side pic of front m'guard mount, looks to me like the sliders are classic's too- what all were changed?. iirc you said of ready made clamps for fixing Classic mudguard in Electra fork
cheers..

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Did you ever consider a Uce barrel & head transplant ? its looking pretty Classic otherwise. Btw you could change those rockers to aluminum block Samrat for good - even the Uce has similar ones & also may not require the Pav junk anymore with twinspark i hope.
Pls post a side pic of front m'guard mount, looks to me like the sliders are classic's too- what all were changed?. iirc you said of ready made clamps for fixing Classic mudguard in Electra fork
cheers..

Hi Rennjit, We were not aware if UCE barrel & head would be a straight bolt on over the CI casing. Also had no clue about valve operating mechanism. Above all this thought did not strike our minds at all. The main reason for posting updates in such forums is to receive such suggestions. But seems like most experts & experienced prefer to be observers.
Yes, Ravi had bought clamps, but one fine day he stuck a cheap deal for those classic sliders and hence you see those sliders here.

[Rennjit]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Hi Rennjit, We were not aware if UCE barrel & head would be a straight bolt on over the CI casing. Also had no clue about valve operating mechanism. .....

Pardon me if i made a confusing query there, Twinspark-Uce's Tci-carb etc made me think that a top end change would have been considered at some point of time. Uce top end is bolt on but some pretty nice work (piston-con rod) is needed in having all matched up. I believe it ain't too complex for someone of your capacity . I know of some 3 hybrids- Avl with uce top, Uce with Avl top & Uce with Ci top.

The sliders so were a direct swap, good to know.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Pardon me if i made a confusing query there, Twinspark-Uce's Tci-carb etc made me think that a top end change would have been considered at some point of time. Uce top end is bolt on but some pretty nice work (piston-con rod) is needed in having all matched up. I believe it ain't too complex for someone of your capacity . I know of some 3 hybrids- Avl with uce top, Uce with Avl top & Uce with Ci top.

The sliders so were a direct swap, good to know.

Hi Rennjit, The TCI is of Electra 5S only. Not of UCE twinspark. I guess, UCE head, cylinder, piston & conrod would have set us back by another 25000 Rs very easily. But good to know that the head & cylinders are compatible with CI & UCE. Yes, the sliders were a direct fit. Just the axle bolt is a little long & needs a small spacer or few extra washers to tighten.