[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Viju

Okay, good to know that you did not overpay.

Since you said new old stock, I had a feeling you actually thought they were genuine NOS items.

Good luck on the rest of the build and the CDI.

Cheers

Thanks viju,

He had NOS and US spec stuff, the Delhi stuff was better than the NOS, I had an option to cherry pic so was happy, I could have bought for Delhi price but I decided to pay him margins. The NOS stuff was more or less sho piece and then us spec was very expensive read more than a set of cylinders

Pramod

[Ajaybiz]

I am using RX135 wiring, it's very easy and switches are US spec RD350B bit tricky but all works on simple 12V supply and ground, working perfectly in my RD with RDD cdi kit.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

I am using RX135 wiring, it's very easy and switches are US spec RD350B bit tricky but all works on simple 12V supply and ground, working perfectly in my RD with RDD cdi kit.

Got the 135 wiring, did a lot of hooking up, down with fever and cold, Very tired. I will do rest end of day, today.

Pramod

[pramodkumar]

Update: The wiring is complete, there is a small glitch as of now but hoping to fix it by EOD today. Its nice to see the Christmas tree coming to life.

Will post some pics once the tank is fixed, the tank is putting up a real fight.

Pramod

[pramodkumar]

Completed the wiring, all lights work. Wiring the rear tail lamp is a challenge. I have run a separate line for th parking light alone. The indicator in the pilot lamp is a challange as well. Need to re wire that alone, presently it blinks when the rhs indicator is on. I can live with that.

The carbs need attention, th float needle is stuck shut, guys on another forum suggested needles from an Enfield 350. But I am not sure, I have asked my spares guy to look in his arsenal to find something suitable.

I am in Bangalore starting Sunday till next saturday. Will do a bit of spare hunting.

Pramod

[ArizonaJim]

It is very rare that a float needle would need to be replaced.

They usually consist of a steel needle with a conical, pointed end that is guided by a brass body. The pointed end fits against a conical valve seat that is machined into the body to control the fuel flow.

Usually, removing the valve, cleaning the needle and the valve body to remove any fuel deposits that may have formed on it will free it up so the needle can move easily and do its job.

The biggest problem with doing this is often the fiber washer that seals the assembly against the carburetor body will be dried out and they often will break or crumble when the valve is re-installed.
These washers are common to many different carburetors and inexpensive to buy.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

It is very rare that a float needle would need to be replaced.

They usually consist of a steel needle with a conical, pointed end that is guided by a brass body. The pointed end fits against a conical valve seat that is machined into the body to control the fuel flow.

Usually, removing the valve, cleaning the needle and the valve body to remove any fuel deposits that may have formed on it will free it up so the needle can move easily and do its job.

The biggest problem with doing this is often the fiber washer that seals the assembly against the carburetor body will be dried out and they often will break or crumble when the valve is re-installed.
These washers are common to many different carburetors and inexpensive to buy.

What you said is right about the construction, but the failure rates are much higher, especially in India , due to rust and lack of periodic maintenance, I changed these in the rxs, both had an overflow issue, the rd was standing as it is for 7+ years, and when we opened the carbs, they were bone dry and without any gunk, so we cleaned everything with wd40 and re installed the carbs. What should have been done, was to have them rebuild using rebuild kits. I am in Bangalore starting Sunday, I will hunt for some carb rebuild kits.

I am also getting a good soldering iron as the joints in the loom needs to be soldered, anyone knows where to get some heat shrinking insulation? In Bangalore is also fine.

Pramod

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Th needles are getting stuck, the tap looks ok, I have not checked them, th needles are bad as of now. Ian in Bangalore next week, do ou kno if ny other bike's needles are suitable? Bullet may be?

Th bushes are new, tried with the old bushes as well an without bushes, it not slotting in and staying there. Hopefull Th denter would be able to do it.

You mean needles are pitted? That will not get it stuck. Are you sure the slides are not swapped from Left side to Right, rule that out first.

Did you fix the tank? Did you do any metal work on chassis or tank?

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Completed the wiring, all lights work. Wiring the rear tail lamp is a challenge. I have run a separate line for th parking light alone. The indicator in the pilot lamp is a challange as well. Need to re wire that alone, presently it blinks when the rhs indicator is on. I can live with that.

Yes that is coz RXG has left and right separate and RD has one for both, if you do a diode jugaad you can make it blink for both.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

It is very rare that a float needle would need to be replaced.
====
These washers are common to many different carburetors and inexpensive to buy.

First check if slides are not swapped, then carefully, make it very carefully with highest grade paper sand the surface of needle to clear the pitting. Also check the chamber into which the needle slides in, this as explained can be removed and cleaned.

Last resort move to bullet stuff, it will not give you the right performance though. And best is to carry your parts and do a comparison at shop and decide.

Best bet, get a pair of flat slides

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

I am in Bangalore starting Sunday, I will hunt for some carb rebuild kits.

I am also getting a good soldering iron as the joints in the loom needs to be soldered, anyone knows where to get some heat shrinking insulation? In Bangalore is also fine.

Try Sial first.

Get different type of sleeves, sometimes small rubber tubes also help. Slide em over those soldered joints and use a candle to melt the sleeve and a plair or similar to crimp. Or just buy good quality tape non-sticy insulation tape and wrap it up.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

You mean needles are pitted? That will not get it stuck. Are you sure the slides aren't not swapped from Left side to Right, rule that out first.

The slides are not swapped, I confirmed that.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Did you fix the tank? Did you do any metal work on chassis or tank?

The tank was worked upon, looks like the denter screwed it up, it does not slide in.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Yes that is coz RXG has left and right separate and RD has one for both, if you do a diode jugaad you can make it blink for both.

Can you explain the circuit?

Originally Posted by Jaggu

First check if slides are not swapped, then carefully, make it very carefully with highest grade paper sand the surface of needle to clear the pitting. Also check the chamber into which the needle slides in, this as explained can be removed and cleaned.

Last resort move to bullet stuff, it will not give you the right performance though. And best is to carry your parts and do a comparison at shop and decide.

Looks like the CI 500 came with vm22s, parts should be easily available.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Best bet, get a pair of flat slides



Try Sial first.

Flat sides are out of reach as of now, idea is to make her a runner first. The float jet looks pitted, I tried the sand paper trick it works for some time and then goes bad. What is sial?

Pramod

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Can you explain the circuit?

When you connect both left and right at the dash bulb, it will act as a return circuit and will make all the 4 indicators blink. So in order to arrest the reverse flow of electricity, you will have to add diodes which will stop the flow of electricity in the opposite direction.

Looks like the CI 500 came with vm22s, parts should be easily available.

Needle length is different and the atomizer (yeah remembered the word!) the part into which needle goes in, there is slight variation. All these are experiments i have done. Not that it wont work, but wont give you the optimum output.

The float jet looks pitted, I tried the sand paper trick it works for some time and then goes bad.

This you can procure easily and kinda works even from similar carbs.

What is sial?

Pramod

https://plus.google.com/114952052975...ut?gl=in&hl=en

Sorry its Siyal, call him and check and order before coming. He is the best bet outside JC road for RD parts.

[JASMEET MATTOO]

Amazing thread, was glued to it from the first post till the last one. Would really love to see the final outcome. I request you to have a proper photo shoot of the beautiful machine using a good camera as it will bring out the best of its looks.

Looking forward to your next updates buddy

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

When you connect both left and right at the dash bulb, it will act as a return circuit and will make all the 4 indicators blink. So in order to arrest the reverse flow of electricity, you will have to add diodes which will stop the flow of electricity in the opposite direction.



Needle length is different and the atomizer (yeah remembered the word!) the part into which needle goes in, there is slight variation. All these are experiments i have done. Not that it wont work, but wont give you the optimum output.



This you can procure easily and kinda works even from similar carbs.



https://plus.google.com/114952052975...ut?gl=in&hl=en

Sorry its Siyal, call him and check and order before coming. He is the best bet outside JC road for RD parts.

Thanks for the URL jaggu, I will contact him and check before heading to his shop. I was told by some folks in another forum that if we leave the jets in brake fluid overnight, it should solve the problems, need your thoughts on the same.

Originally Posted by JASMEET MATTOO

Amazing thread, was glued to it from the first post till the last one. Would really love to see the final outcome. I request you to have a proper photo shoot of the beautiful machine using a good camera as it will bring out the best of its looks.

Looking forward to your next updates buddy

Hey Jasmeet, thanks buddy. The final outcome is very close and trust me she looks super sweet. My friend and chief designer of the project came home yesterday and he was very proud at the final outcome.

In other news, installed the crossover setup yesterday, this would not only ensure both the carbs are in sync will also take care of any excess fuel.

An image of the internet to show what I mean



Got 2 135 manifolds and one torque bottle tube with 2 clips and voila, we had our own crossover setup. will upgrade to a torque bottle at a later stage. I am going to buy a soldering iron today and would solder all the joints I made on the loom. I will also install the diode setup for the indicator lamp in the pilot lamp .

Pramod

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Thanks for the URL jaggu, I will contact him and check before heading to his shop. I was told by some folks in another forum that if we leave the jets in brake fluid overnight, it should solve the problems, need your thoughts on the same.

Jets you can leave in petrol, thinner, brake fluid etc etc. Only rubber parts be careful where you dip. But i thought you had issue with the atomizer/needle getting stuck? They can be dis-assembled and cleaned.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Jets you can leave in petrol, thinner, brake fluid etc etc. Only rubber parts be careful where you dip. But i thought you had issue with the atomizer/needle getting stuck? They can be dis-assembled and cleaned.

The float jet needle is getting stuck, so fuel is not flowing in. The atomiser had been cleaned with wd40 and zorrik 88, I had removed the jet at the end and cleaned that fully. I am not sure how to remove the atomiser, will it open from the float bowl side or the intake side? I have seen a small grove in the float bowl side, looks like a special tool is needed to open it. I am thinking of immersing the jets and other bits and bobs in brake fluid for the night and see if that makes a difference.

Also to be sure about the slides being inserted correctly, the side with the slight curve should face the intake of the cylinder?

Pramod

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

I am not sure how to remove the atomiser, will it open from the float bowl side or the intake side? I have seen a small grove in the float bowl side, looks like a special tool is needed to open it.

Its removed from the intake side and is a press fit, so has to be carfully pressed out after removing the jets, jets locks it down, has to be done very carefully. I you are not sure please give it to a mech who knows. Don't want to break a carb body

I am thinking of immersing the jets and other bits and bobs in brake fluid for the night and see if that makes a difference.

Jets use a strand of copper wire and run em through, no need for all this immersing for overnight and all.

Also to be sure about the slides being inserted correctly, the side with the slight curve should face the intake of the cylinder?

NOOO! it has to be on filter side.