[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Intrepidspy

I am following this thread since i read the title. This is a dream of so many that you are living.
Curious to see the final outcome.
Great going Pramod!!

Regarding living the dream, I would agree

Its coming out fine so far. The cycle build is complete. Engine would be done max by tomorrow. I am expecting to see the thing running by Next week end.

Thanks for the wishes

Pramod

[msrsooraj]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

shogun/shaolin parts are difficult to procure. You can find a hell lot of spares here

Pramod

OMG!!! Thank you so much there.. Its just that my dad had this samurai ever since i remember. When he bought a classic 350, I took the liberty of making the samurai mine. And it hurts when every other person who owns an RX looks down on it as if its something less. This little bike has seen more cities and states than most people have in their lives. Ummm, perhaps I am getting a little carried away here. So more on that later. Emotions aside.
I am not really certain if the RX reed valve would suit. One other thing is that when ever i take my samurai to a mechanic, the first thing they say is, "we only build Yamahas. Not really certain, you will have to leave it here for as long as it takes".
Someone told me that the Max100 reed valve should be fine. Bt the way, finding parts for samurai is not really impossible. But there are these certain little parts that don't usually break down and not a lot of people need, so production of such parts are dead. Anyways, I'll make sure I'll inform you every bit of progress.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by msrsooraj

OMG!!! Thank you so much there.. Its just that my dad had this samurai ever since i remember. When he bought a classic 350, I took the liberty of making the samurai mine. And it hurts when every other person who owns an RX looks down on it as if its something less. This little bike has seen more cities and states than most people have in their lives. Ummm, perhaps I am getting a little carried away here. So more on that later. Emotions aside.
I am not really certain if the RX reed valve would suit. One other thing is that when ever i take my samurai to a mechanic, the first thing they say is, "we only build Yamahas. Not really certain, you will have to leave it here for as long as it takes".
Someone told me that the Max100 reed valve should be fine. Bt the way, finding parts for samurai is not really impossible. But there are these certain little parts that don't usually break down and not a lot of people need, so production of such parts are dead. Anyways, I'll make sure I'll inform you every bit of progress.

Well said brother, I love yamahas but there were some great vehicles from Suzuki stable as well. The RXG was Yamahas answer to then giant killer shogun but was a lemon in every way. The ignition was funky, in the mean while the shogun was just conquering new grounds. Then came the last hurrah the shaolin, by the time gas guzzling smokers were out and in came a promise of nearly 100 Kms per litre, for the urban commuter it was way too mouthwatering.
Suzuki when bid farewell to their venture with TVS, a lot of projects n models were orphaned. Supply of new parts became a seasonal affair. With the penetration of Internet and social media finding spares was never a challenge.

I will detail my spare collection rendezvous, once th buil is complete.

People do Rxs because it's easy to move, everyone has owned o ridden one at som point of time. Thi I the time when HH CD 100s are getting restored. Finding spares was never easy, yo need to establish relationships. Those stocks of NOS spares have lready suffered loss, so people tend to hold to them. And this creates here is an immediate scarcity. markets are filled with more spares. That time popl start to unload stuff, but there are money minded popl who just pic the whole lot.

Tell you what the meter plate for my rx was found in a shop with whom I share a boundary wall. Before when I used to approach him he will simply say don't have, now he knows I am not wasting his time anymore. Parts hunting is fun, and can be rewarding. You stay in Cochin, I would have ventured till coimby if I was in Cochin.

Collect spares then start the work. Best of luck for the build

Pramod

[msrsooraj]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

You stay in Cochin, I would have ventured till coimby if I was in Cochin.

Collect spares then start the work. Best of luck for the build

Pramod

I have been to the infamous Second-Hand markets of Coimbatore. Trust me, they sell EVERYTHING. A person can literally assemble a CBR or a Duke from the markets there. But as soon as you enter the place, everyone gives you this look and makes you uncomfortable. Not uncomfortable, but scared and makes you want to get out of there. If they think you're naive, they demand prices that you cant imagine in your wildest dreams. INR600 for p220 main jet, that's the price I am talking about.

So if you want to buy good spares and materials from the 2nd hand markets of Coimbatore, you'll need to know a mechanic from Palakad (because we are malayalis). If you know a mechanic from Coimb, better still. I do know a wonderful mechanic from Palakad who frequently visits coimbtore and Palakad markets for spares. He also agreed to get me shogun engine, but shortage of money (shame on me!!) and i had to let it be for the time.

I am pretty sure that they have spares for RDs and I do have friends in Coimbtore and Palakad. Should you need anything, don't hesitate. I "MIGHT" be able to help. No guarantees, but i'll definitely give it a try if the need arises. But like you said, if you want spares, Banglore is the place to look. I do have a few friends there. They are not really enthusiasts who can be given the task of getting you spare parts.

I wanted to ask you a few things about your RD. Is that the High torque or Low Torque version?? Can you like "upgrade" a low torque to a High torque or something like that?? How many carbs does it have? Where did you get those carb(s). What is the size of the jet?? And the most important question, ARE GETTING A CUSTOM CHAMBERED EXHAUST OR NOT??

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by msrsooraj

I wanted to ask you a few things about your RD. Is that the High torque or Low Torque version?? Can you like "upgrade" a low torque to a High torque or something like that?? How many carbs does it have? Where did you get those carb(s). What is the size of the jet?? And the most important question, ARE GETTING A CUSTOM CHAMBERED EXHAUST OR NOT??

It's a low torque version, but it's running an LT + HT combo.

Yes an LT can be upgraded to HT or a us spec. The RD has 2 carbs sinc it has 2 barelles. These came with the bike. Size of th jet is 170 and 50. I am not getting. Custom chambered exhaust, I might get a new set of HT pipes sometime this year.

Pramod

[pramodkumar]

Hit a major snag, one the stud where the cylinder and heads bolt, is broken . I don't know if I will get one? There is no shop that sell RD stuff here in Trivandrum. What a shame, the build has come to a grinding halt.

Pramod

[giri1.8]

Been following this thread from the beginning, I must say, paint has very good finish, personally I wanted a custom bike(something from rx series or thunderbird) in this color with beige color seats! I always plan the looks of the bike in advance and make sure it ends up exactly same as expected. Waiting to see the end product of your hard work

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Hit a major snag, one the stud where the cylinder and heads bolt, is broken . I don't know if I will get one? There is no shop that sell RD stuff here in Trivandrum. What a shame, the build has come to a grinding halt.

Pramod

Hello Pramod,

Can you post a pic of the part (good one) and also the stamping on that with details? Many of these studs are standard off-the-shelf ones. Usually they carry enough information - Thread type, stud length, threaded length and grade (strength).

Hope the build progresses further, we see there are a lot of people here who want to see this build completed and bike running like it should be

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Hello Pramod,

Can you post a pic of the part (good one) and also the stamping on that with details? Many of these studs are standard off-the-shelf ones. Usually they carry enough information - Thread type, stud length, threaded length and grade (strength).

Hope the build progresses further, we see there are a lot of people here who want to see this build completed and bike running like it should be

I have circled the stud



They look very similar to the bullet stud but are some microns smaller, they are spinning freely in the hole. He tried all the tricks in the book( putting araldite, adding a shim etc) the only option is to go for the original one (not sure if the treads are damaged).

If the original stud also spins then we need to get the first over size studs made and inserted.

Pramod

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

If the original stud also spins then we need to get the first over size studs made and inserted.

Pramod

Finally we have given the work of getting a stud made, keeping the fingers crossed.

In other news, I lost the rear sprocket lock, actually one of them. Hoping to fix one for now and will fix The second one when I stumble upon one.

The indicators are damn expensive, around 1750 a set for normal rx ones bolted to metal stays, people are asking up to 6k for used Stanley sets, Planning to pickup a set once I get a decent set at a decent price.

Pramod

[black12rr]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Finally we have given the work of getting a stud made, keeping the fingers crossed.

If the threads are gone, what they would they would do is fill up the hole with metal and then re-thread or drill a hole as per the stock stud.

You did not consider this ?

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by black12rr

If the threads are gone, what they would they would do is fill up the hole with metal and then re-thread or drill a hole as per the stock stud.

You did not consider this ?

Not required at this stage, hopefully

Pramod

[Sunsh!nes]

most wonderful and dedicated thread. I appreciate all your efforts put in here. I am very much eager to see the final outcome. How far has the progress come, have you given any deadline for yourself to complete the restoration(dont mind me asking but seeing you put in so much of struggle it would be really overwhelming to see the final product on road

[ArizonaJim]

If the stud turns freely in the crankcase, the threads in the aluminum are damaged.
It is highly unlikely that the steel studs threads are the source of the problem.

Yes, one method of repairing this is to fill in the hole by welding it but there is a very good chance of damaging the housing. The welding heat can distort the case causing problems with bearing alignment and out of flat sealing surfaces.
I do not recommend this unless the other option is not possible.

The easiest and best solution is to have the damaged hole rethreaded for a standard HeliCoil thread insert.

These are slightly larger than the existing thread and have the existing stud thread on the inside for the stud to screw into.
The thread on the outside of the insert is not the next size larger metric thread. It is smaller so they often can be installed without making the metal around the hole too thin to take the loads.

Helicoil inserts are made from stainless steel and are stronger than the original design.
Using a Helicoil is the cheapest, best method of dealing with the problem.
A good mechanic in India should be familiar with HeliCoil inserts and their proper installation. The inserts are available in India.

If I am correct and the threads on the lower area of the existing stud are not damaged you will be able to use it to reassemble the engine.


http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

I have circled the stud

Attachment 1338526

They look very similar to the bullet stud but are some microns smaller, they are spinning freely in the hole. He tried all the tricks in the book( putting araldite, adding a shim etc) the only option is to go for the original one (not sure if the treads are damaged).

If the original stud also spins then we need to get the first over size studs made and inserted.

Pramod

Pramod,

1) To ascertain if the thread on the stud is damaged, or the thread on the case, interchange the studs and check. If the crank case thread is damaged, the stud will still turn freely in the same hole. If the stud is damaged, it wont fit in any hole.

2) If you are getting a stud made, please take care to ensure the stud material is good one. Also, the finish needs to be smooth, else the stud may fail as fatigue load can initiate cracks on imperfect surfaces.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If the stud turns freely in the crankcase, the threads in the aluminum are damaged.
It is highly unlikely that the steel studs threads are the source of the problem.

Yes, one method of repairing this is to fill in the hole by welding it but there is a very good chance of damaging the housing. The welding heat can distort the case causing problems with bearing alignment and out of flat sealing surfaces.
I do not recommend this unless the other option is not possible.

The easiest and best solution is to have the damaged hole rethreaded for a standard HeliCoil thread insert.

These are slightly larger than the existing thread and have the existing stud thread on the inside for the stud to screw into.
The thread on the outside of the insert is not the next size larger metric thread. It is smaller so they often can be installed without making the metal around the hole too thin to take the loads.

Helicoil inserts are made from stainless steel and are stronger than the original design.
Using a Helicoil is the cheapest, best method of dealing with the problem.
A good mechanic in India should be familiar with HeliCoil inserts and their proper installation. The inserts are available in India.

If I am correct and the threads on the lower area of the existing stud are not damaged you will be able to use it to reassemble the engine.

http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

One more method is to have a thin metal sleeve inserted into the hole, and fasten the stud normally. This method is a hit or miss, and a very thick sleeve may exert pressure on the crank case and if not done with care can cause deformations / cracks.

I suggest you try your best to find a slightly oversize stud, and tap the hole to correct size before you fit it.