[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by autocrat

One more method is to have a thin metal sleeve inserted into the hole, and fasten the stud normally.

Pardon the ignorance, but isn't this the same as helicoiling?

[Suresh Stephen]

Pramod,
If the stud is turning in the casing, It is almost sure that the thread in the casing sheared off. Do not weld to fill metal you will end up in having a distorted casing. The best solution is what suggested by ArizonaJim to use a helicoil insert. Iam not too sure that mechanics in Trivandrum are familiar with the process. You need special taps and inserting tools for doing this job. In case it is not feasible in trivandrum, Go for the normal way of making an oversize thread and you need to make a matching stud also( There is adequate material in the casing to do that).

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Sunsh!nes

most wonderful and dedicated thread. I appreciate all your efforts put in here. I am very much eager to see the final outcome. How far has the progress come, have you given any deadline for yourself to complete the restoration(dont mind me asking but seeing you put in so much of struggle it would be really overwhelming to see the final product on road

Thanks a ton for the kind words

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If the stud turns freely in the crankcase, the threads in the aluminum are damaged.
It is highly unlikely that the steel studs threads are the source of the problem.

Yes, one method of repairing this is to fill in the hole by welding it but there is a very good chance of damaging the housing. The welding heat can distort the case causing problems with bearing alignment and out of flat sealing surfaces.
I do not recommend this unless the other option is not possible.

The easiest and best solution is to have the damaged hole rethreaded for a standard HeliCoil thread insert.

These are slightly larger than the existing thread and have the existing stud thread on the inside for the stud to screw into.
The thread on the outside of the insert is not the next size larger metric thread. It is smaller so they often can be installed without making the metal around the hole too thin to take the loads.

Helicoil inserts are made from stainless steel and are stronger than the original design.
Using a Helicoil is the cheapest, best method of dealing with the problem.
A good mechanic in India should be familiar with HeliCoil inserts and their proper installation. The inserts are available in India.

If I am correct and the threads on the lower area of the existing stud are not damaged you will be able to use it to reassemble the engine.


http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

Buddy, I have tried most of the things you mentioned. Like I said earlier, the engine build is the only mechanical thing we outsourced and I am seeing stars from the first second. These guys broke the stud and they used a helicoil to create the over sized thread. Now the only option is to take the engine to a lathe and get a stud cut and installed at the lathe itself. Using a sleeve is another thing I am contemplating , I am not sure if a sleeve of a few microns thickness can hold the stud in place, we might have to increase the dia of the hole.

Originally Posted by autocrat

Pramod,

1) To ascertain if the thread on the stud is damaged, or the thread on the case, interchange the studs and check. If the crank case thread is damaged, the stud will still turn freely in the same hole. If the stud is damaged, it wont fit in any hole.

2) If you are getting a stud made, please take care to ensure the stud material is good one. Also, the finish needs to be smooth, else the stud may fail as fatigue load can initiate cracks on imperfect surfaces.



One more method is to have a thin metal sleeve inserted into the hole, and fasten the stud normally. This method is a hit or miss, and a very thick sleeve may exert pressure on the crank case and if not done with care can cause deformations / cracks.

I suggest you try your best to find a slightly oversize stud, and tap the hole to correct size before you fit it.

I am still hopeful, things might work.

Pramod

[joe angelo]

Wow wow wowwww... after a long time I'm seeing one beautiful RD restoration thread. Beautiful narration, and really loved to see the Beauty getting ready in the main living room.

Many issues will crop up but don't worry, you will rejoice one day... wait for D-DAY again!!


Note from Mod: Post edited. Please use proper punctuation & capitalization when posting on Team-BHP. For more details see this link

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Pardon the ignorance, but isn't this the same as helicoiling?

In helicoiling, you have a threaded insert. I am referring to a more crude, but also effective way, where a thin (but plain) sleeve, like a pipe, usually of soft material, is inserted into the hole and the fastner is tightened. the sleeve takes the form of the thread as the bolt is tightened. This works only when there is some thread left on both mating surfaces though.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by joe angelo

Wow wow wowwww... after a long time I'm seeing one beautiful RD restoration thread. Beautiful narration, and really loved to see the Beauty getting ready in the main living room.

Many issues will crop up but don't worry, you will rejoice one day... wait for D-DAY again!!

Thanks for the kind words. I am already happy

Originally Posted by autocrat

In helicoiling, you have a threaded insert. I am referring to a more crude, but also effective way, where a thin (but plain) sleeve, like a pipe, usually of soft material, is inserted into the hole and the fastner is tightened. the sleeve takes the form of the thread as the bolt is tightened. This works only when there is some thread left on both mating surfaces though.

Apparently this is what he did to fit everything in place. Hope it holds. I will get it fixed permanently in stage 2.

Updates, the front a rear mud guards were way past, we rescued the front mud guard however I am not really satisfied with the outcome. The rear Mud guard is gone, and each acid treatment reveals new holes. Presently we have powder coated it as is. I am planning to get a new set soon, also a set of new pipes is on the card. Keeping my fingers crossed looking to get it running ASAP.

Pramod

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Apparently this is what he did to fit everything in place. Hope it holds. I will get it fixed permanently in stage 2.

Updates, the front a rear mud guards were way past, we rescued the front mud guard however I am not really satisfied with the outcome. The rear Mud guard is gone, and each acid treatment reveals new holes. Presently we have powder coated it as is. I am planning to get a new set soon, also a set of new pipes is on the card. Keeping my fingers crossed looking to get it running ASAP.

Pramod

There are other studs sharing the load, so it should be fine. I would be worried if all load came on one stud alone.

Quite a while since we saw some pics from you. Waiting.

[pramodkumar]

Wheeled the bike out of the workshop yesterday. Worked a lot in it, wiring is pending, will be attacking it tomorrow

Pramod

[Mr.O]

Very much glued to your thread. The pain you take and your love for bikes is truly awesome. I would like to see your ride once it gets ready

What is the exact difference between and HT and LT. Other than the cosmetic difference such as the badge "Rajdoot" instead of "Yamaha" in HT etc etc, What makes HT more powerful than an LT. From where does it gets the extra 3 horses.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Mr.O

Very much glued to your thread. The pain you take and your love for bikes is truly awesome. I would like to see your ride once it gets ready

What is the exact difference between and HT and LT. Other than the cosmetic difference such as the badge "Rajdoot" instead of "Yamaha" in HT etc etc, What makes HT more powerful than an LT. From where does it gets the extra 3 horses.

Thank you, you are welcome to drop in any moment.

Well there is more difference than just the badging, The port duration is longer in a HT, the carbs have bigger jets, the heads are different and finally the made in japan badge

cosmetic difference other than the made in japan badge is the pipes, which are more sweeter to hear. mine is running a LT + HT combo.


pramod

[Ajaybiz]

Following the build.
Pramodkumar few pointers about the build, whats the reason behind changing the cylinders as the one you bought is not worth at all and those pistons are not at all TKRJ its all Chinese jugad, why not rebore the old cylinders and use it. I was one of very first to use these china bores but it was all together different story, it was done by Ron and bike has seen 170 KMPH on GPS on stock pipes.
Can see gas tank is having rust, please clean it thoroughly inside as rust inside the engine can kill it within 200 kms of ride.
Chuck that stock air filter, they eat lot of dust, use pod filters or stock replacement UNi filters.
On lighter note one of my RD had almost same series number HYO it was police auctioned bike never had any issue in Bangalore even after getting caught 3 times.

[Mr.O]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

Thank you, you are welcome to drop in any moment.

cosmetic difference other than the made in japan badge is the pipes, which are more sweeter to hear. mine is running a LT + HT combo.

pramod

HT and LT combo? Could you please tell me more about this? . I am guessing you are running on HT carb jets and LT cylinder heads, because I found "Rajdoot" written in one of your cylinder heads.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

Following the build.
Pramodkumar few pointers about the build, whats the reason behind changing the cylinders as the one you bought is not worth at all and those pistons are not at all TKRJ its all Chinese jugad .

I know about the pistons and this cylinders are better than a sleeve job any day. Had an opportunity to cherry pick them, they are not as bad, the ports were ok, I had my old sleeved cylinders for reference and they looked better in terms of ports slope than the old ones. Its a shame we do not have people like Ron here. I am planning to visit him next time I am in Bangalore, lets see if he can be of any help(I know he is super busy). The feel good factor about these cylinders are, these are what you get from US if you buy a new set, sites like hycvcle are selling them, I got them much cheaper than what most around me paid, so I feel great

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

why not re-bore the old cylinders and use it. I was one of very first to use these china bores but it was all together different story, it was done by Ron and bike has seen 170 KMPH on GPS on stock pipes..

The old cylinders where extremely screwed, hence had to plan getting a new set, even sleeve job was not an option. I am quickly moving out from the age group where speed matters, to one where passion and fun of owning one does. Honestly I have not gone beyond 100 on my RX 100, which can easily do 110+, but I get your point

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

Can see gas tank is having rust, please clean it thoroughly inside as rust inside the engine can kill it within 200 kms of ride..

I did an acid treatment to dissolve rust, was thinking of epoxy primer treatment, but I believe best idea is not spend on any rust treatment, instead I will be using plain ol' 2T premix and a good magnetic glass bowl filter to keep rust away from the carbs



Pic taken from good old internet.

Originally Posted by Ajaybiz

Chuck that stock air filter, they eat lot of dust, use pod filters or stock replacement UNi filters.
On lighter note one of my RD had almost same series number HYO it was police auctioned bike never had any issue in Bangalore even after getting caught 3 times.

I have planned to get UNI pod filters from Ron with correct jets. Idea is to make it a runner first and then go for some performance.

This is a civilian bike registered in Ballabgarh Harayana hope not to get caught the registration portability is coming soon, hoping to run the same plates in Kerala.

Pramod

[Ajaybiz]

One of My build covered over here http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...rs-wait-5.html

[pramodkumar]

This is how she looks as of now




Struggling with the wiring

Pramod