[audioholic]

Originally Posted by fighterace

No problem at all, an extra rectifier in the headlamp circuit should convert the AC to DC. Depending on the rating, you can use the standard rectifier that charges the battery, or can make a custom unit. I'll be glad to help.

Putting the battery in the loop will need some major modifications though.

Since you have brought up this offer to help, may I please discuss a doubt?

The current activa and dio and sibilings come with a 3Ah battery which is puny by any standards. The electricals is part AC and part DC. The headlamps and parking bulbs are fed by AC directly from the alternator while the other lamps and horn etc run on DC provided by battery and RR.

Now suppose I want to convert this to full DC, mechanics give me big procedures starting from rewinding the coil. I dont want to tinker so much. Can I just replace the current RR and the AC part of the setup with a higher capacity RR unit and then run the whole electricals on DC? This can later be followed by a battery upgrade. My aim is to provide sufficient charging rate to the battery before I run the headlamps out of it. As of now, the electricals are so weak that if I hit the brakes, the headlamps slightly dims.

[fighterace]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Since you have brought up this offer to help, may I please discuss a doubt?

The current activa and dio and sibilings come with a 3Ah battery which is puny by any standards. The electricals is part AC and part DC. The headlamps and parking bulbs are fed by AC directly from the alternator while the other lamps and horn etc run on DC provided by battery and RR.

Now suppose I want to convert this to full DC, mechanics give me big procedures starting from rewinding the coil. I dont want to tinker so much. Can I just replace the current RR and the AC part of the setup with a higher capacity RR unit and then run the whole electricals on DC? This can later be followed by a battery upgrade. My aim is to provide sufficient charging rate to the battery before I run the headlamps out of it. As of now, the electricals are so weak that if I hit the brakes, the headlamps slightly dims.

Caveat emptor: the only two wheeler I've used had a magneto and no battery- Bajaj Super. Post which I've only had alternator equipped cars. So take my inputs with a pinch of salt.

I think your tail lamp and stop lamp are directly running off the alternator, pls refer to autocrat's post above. So there is nothing that you can do to prevent the HL from dimming when you hit the brakes.Your system is drawing the max possible power from the source at full load. The best solution will be to decrease that load. Start with replacing the tail/stop light combination bulb with a LED. After the HL, the horn and the stop lamps are the most power consuming, so we can effect some savings there, which'll go to the HL. You will have to make a rectifier and filter circuit to use LEDs in the AC circuit.

Next, invest in a bigger battery. If you use the vehicle for a sufficient distance in daylight, your existing charging ckt can charge it. The stored power will be useful at night and for a better horn sound. Then you can start replacing the DC (battery) driven lamps with LEDs, so the battery draws less current to charge, even at night.

Once all these have been done, and you still feel the need for more electrical power, then go for a bigger alternator/rewind the coil. The route I've suggested does minimal alteration to the vehicle, which helps to retain its reliability. Also, it will effect a marginal improvement in FE, as opposed to the brute-force approach of having a more powerful alternator.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by fighterace

I think your tail lamp and stop lamp are directly running off the alternator, pls refer to autocrat's post above. So there is nothing that you can do to prevent the HL from dimming when you hit the brakes.Your system is drawing the max possible power from the source at full load. The best solution will be to decrease that load. Start with replacing the tail/stop light combination bulb with a LED. After the HL, the horn and the stop lamps are the most power consuming, so we can effect some savings there, which'll go to the HL. You will have to make a rectifier and filter circuit to use LEDs in the AC circuit.

Tail lamp runs off alternator. But the brake lamp runs from the battery. The dimming suggests overall weakness in the system. LED lamps are in the plans but they dont last long in these AC setups with varying voltages. Tried to swap pilot lamps with LED and it didnt work for long. Will replace brake lamps and check once.

[fighterace]

Originally Posted by audioholic

Tail lamp runs off alternator. But the brake lamp runs from the battery. The dimming suggests overall weakness in the system. LED lamps are in the plans but they dont last long in these AC setups with varying voltages. Tried to swap pilot lamps with LED and it didnt work for long. Will replace brake lamps and check once.

Try putting a rectifier and pi filter in your AC circuit to convert the whole thing to ripple-free DC. LEDs are sensitive creatures that don't take reverse biasing very kindly, 12V AC is a deal breaker.. As I said earlier, you will need a rectifier to run LEDs in the AC ckt.

BTW, how old is the battery? And what is the overall status of your electrical system? Is the rectifier charging the battery properly? Get them checked before starting the mods.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by fighterace

What about focus and throw? If the reflector is designed for a different type of bulb, won't these be affected? I remember my father fitting a halogen bulb in our Super (in it's original 6V avatar), back in the days when halogens were what Xenons, or rather LED's, are nowadays. While it was a plug-and-play replacement, I remember the beam pattern changing. And the intensity was notably improved.

No problem at all, an extra rectifier in the headlamp circuit should convert the AC to DC. Depending on the rating, you can use the standard rectifier that charges the battery, or can make a custom unit. I'll be glad to help.

Putting the battery in the loop will need some major modifications though.

Focus is good, and spread is better too in low beam. I still did not post pics, will do so as soon as I can.

I think I need to get the wiring diagram of Activa. Once I have it I will share it with you and we can plan what needs to be done. I need the headlight to be driven off the battery.

Originally Posted by audioholic

Tail lamp runs off alternator. But the brake lamp runs from the battery. The dimming suggests overall weakness in the system. LED lamps are in the plans but they dont last long in these AC setups with varying voltages. Tried to swap pilot lamps with LED and it didnt work for long. Will replace brake lamps and check once.

IMO, its not possible to replace brake light alone to LED on a stock setup, as there is a single bulb with dual filament that does this duty. I see a lot of 2 wheelers and cars with small but bright flashing LEDs used as brake lights. Wiring needs to be modified.

[condor]

WHat type of bulb does the Dio use ? I have an old Dio with me, and want to try this.

Originally Posted by autocrat

1) If the alternator produces enough juice, a 60/55 can be fitted. However, in stock condition, I do not think the alternator produces enough. You need to get the coil rewound for this. As far as I know, old Activa produces 110W@5000 rpm and it may not be enough.

Is there another alternator that can be fitted in directly to get the required current output (to support a 55/60 w bulb) ?

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

For my dad's kinetic, I have bought this
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1550L...256728332.html
.

@Sunnyboi, tis link doesnt work .. would you have the details separately ?

[salmankazi85]

Originally Posted by fighterace

Caveat emptor: the only two wheeler I've used had a magneto and no battery- Bajaj Super. Post which I've only had alternator equipped cars. So take my inputs with a pinch of salt.

I think your tail lamp and stop lamp are directly running off the alternator, pls refer to autocrat's post above. So there is nothing that you can do to prevent the HL from dimming when you hit the brakes.Your system is drawing the max possible power from the source at full load. The best solution will be to decrease that load. Start with replacing the tail/stop light combination bulb with a LED. After the HL, the horn and the stop lamps are the most power consuming, so we can effect some savings there, which'll go to the HL. You will have to make a rectifier and filter circuit to use LEDs in the AC circuit.

Next, invest in a bigger battery. If you use the vehicle for a sufficient distance in daylight, your existing charging ckt can charge it. The stored power will be useful at night and for a better horn sound. Then you can start replacing the DC (battery) driven lamps with LEDs, so the battery draws less current to charge, even at night.

Once all these have been done, and you still feel the need for more electrical power, then go for a bigger alternator/rewind the coil. The route I've suggested does minimal alteration to the vehicle, which helps to retain its reliability. Also, it will effect a marginal improvement in FE, as opposed to the brute-force approach of having a more powerful alternator.

I am following this route on upgrading my Honda aviator’s electrical system. I have removed the front headlight cover and fixed a round led headlight and an electronic speedometer. Since my scooter uses an AC + DC system, I wanted my led headlights to run only when the engine was running. So, the mechanic installed a Bajaj Oem relay ( I suppose it is a rectifier, looks like a horn relay, now comes in most new Bajaj bikes ) to power the headlights with dc current. The headlights are working fine, but the problem is in low beam, the horn sounds feeble while braking and in high beam, the battery drains out and the self stops working.

My battery is a 5 ah unit. Should I now go for a 7 ah battery or a 9 ah as in Bajaj avenger? Please guide me further. Will the alternator be enough to charge the bigger battery quickly and sufficiently?

[aim120]

Originally Posted by salmankazi85

My battery is a 5 ah unit. Should I now go for a 7 ah battery or a 9 ah as in Bajaj avenger? Please guide me further. Will the alternator be enough to charge the bigger battery quickly and sufficiently?

If its a 110c aviator, you can put a 7ah battery Exide XLTZ7, it fits in the battery tray, but its taller so you will need a longer bolt and also need to straighten out the top battery holding plate, in doing so you lengthen it, such that the two holes for the bolt align.

I have this battery XLTZ7 installed since 3 years now in my aviator and activa 125 scooter, everything else is all stock without any modifications. Alternator will take more time to charge but will charge it sufficiently, if you ride for longer time it will charge vs short runs.

[salmankazi85]

Originally Posted by aim120

If its a 110c aviator, you can put a 7ah battery Exide XLTZ7, it fits in the battery tray, but its taller so you will need a longer bolt and also need to straighten out the top battery holding plate, in doing so you lengthen it, such that the two holes for the bolt align.

I have this battery XLTZ7 installed since 3 years now in my aviator and activa 125 scooter, everything else is all stock without any modifications. Alternator will take more time to charge but will charge it sufficiently, if you ride for longer time it will charge vs short runs.

I checked a 9 ah battery from my avenger. Even that can fit. And as you said the top bracket I can fabricate as I have a fabrication workshop.

Now coming back to the load on the electrical system. My led headlight is rated at 80 W at high beam and 36 W at low beam. That is why running on low beam does’nt give any problems. I have also bought the pulsar 220’s original twin horns but haven’t installed them yet. Want to sort out the electrical system first. I bought a multimeter today to check the current drawn by the lights. Will check tomorrow.

Now, let me explain the connections the mechanic has made. My lights come on only when the engine is running. It is a stable output and they do’nt flicker. For this he has used a relay. ( light control module for Bajaj bikes ) . So the AC part of the rectifier regulator which earlier powered the lights has been sort of converted to DC ( as I understand ). Now the stock lamp was 35/35 w. My new headlight uses 80 w. So I suppose the output of the regulator for lighting is much less.

Any idea what is the O/P of the rectifier? Will try to measure the current from rectifier tomorrow and calculate the wattage. If I use a 9 ah battery, will the rr unit be able to charge the battery?

And thanks for the prompt reply.

[salmankazi85]

So had a word with my mechanic today. The headlight is powered by the battery, and relay that he has installed, actually gets triggered when the engine turns on , ie, when current flows through the rectifier via the stock headlight wiring. So that is how headlight turns on only when the engine is running.

So I purchased a 9 ah amaron battery today and modified the stock battery bracket. The pictures are posted below.

The stock bracket




Cut open from these 3 points







4 mm gap between the bracket and the frame



Welding cut off


After tack welding the bracket directly to the frame. 4 mm width increased





After a lot of welding, grinding and filing. Forgot to take snaps while working.



1 important thing, the battery mounts front side back because the amaron battery has it’s +ve pole on the left and the +ve lead of the scooter is on the right.

I also welded a new bracket for dual horns in place of the stock horn. Will post pics tomorrow.

[salmankazi85]

The pics of the horn