[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by green_ninja

The Electra went in for a general service and oil change today. ODO stands at ~21760 kms and it has been about 6000kms from the last oil service....

Lately, I have been having some issues with the electric start sprag clutch. I'm not sure why but there has been a lot of kickback during kickstart and sprag clutch grinding noise during electric start. Had them check the sprag clutch. SA advised not to turn the throttle during starting by either method. Seems to work for now. I might have to use the choke during cold starts in the mornings if I cannot open the throttle a little bit...

IMO, if the carburetor is set up right, it is always a good idea to use the choke during the first start of a motorcycle after it has sit overnight.
(In the old days when some carburetors did not have a choke, we pushed a button down that caused the carburetor to flood the engine).
Carburetors are set up to only provide the air/fuel mixture for a hot engine when their choke is not used. The extra fuel delivered to the engine when the choke is applied allows the air/fuel mixture to ignite more easily.

With a fuel injected motorcycle, their cold start system also needs to be used during the first start of the day. These systems can use several different methods of doing it but, all of them provide the extra fuel a cold engine needs to start easily.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by green_ninja

there has been a lot of kickback during kickstart and sprag clutch grinding noise during electric start.

It is the TPS triggering Timing to Advance resulting in Kickback.

Ideally it is supposed to trigger at a later stage of throttle opening, say after the first quarter of travel rather than immediately off idle.

So I'd recommend you have a look at it and rectify by resetting the TPS switch as per the motorcycles service manual if required.

Regards,
A.P.

[green_ninja]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

IMO, if the carburetor is set up right, it is always a good idea to use the choke during the first start of a motorcycle after it has sit overnight.................

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

It is the TPS triggering Timing to Advance resulting in Kickback................

Thanks for tips ArizonaJim and ashwinprakas.

I believe the carb and the TPS are setup right. For the last couple of days, I have been following the RE service advisor's suggestion during starting in the morning. A few kicks with the clutch disengaged and then one kick with the throttle fully closed brings the engine to life. I slowly rev the engine after a few seconds and all is well. No sprag clutch noise nor kickback.

Hope this is it and the Electra will carry on as usual.

[knrn]

Hi.
Read your entire thread today. Sorry to hear about your buying experience but the bike makes up for it.
Those who buy a bullet gradually fall in love with it. The torque is addictive and has good power too.
Being a bulleteer myself I would like to make the following suggestions hoping that you find them useful.

Bullets are tough machines. Pure mechanical strength at its best. The electricals will be your only gripe.
If you have a good service centre that's good otherwise it's best to find a fng. An ustaad or master as we call those old bullet mechanics. Find one if you need to. They are magicians trust me.
For the headlight switch to a 60/55 w bulb. It's more than adequate. The 35 w standard bulb is designed to shine bright at idle rpms and they tend to burn out at high rpm current. So 60/55 is better and more suited. My bulb has lasted 5 years now.

Get a wider rear tyre. 3.50 to be precise. Improved stability and high speed behaviour plus better braking are added bonuses not to mention looks.

You can change exhaust if you want to. A free flow to be precise. Improves the performance. A free flow air intake filter will boost your power too but requires self cleaning. If you are a diy type then good. Else remember to change air filter every service whatever it's condition. You will feel the result.
I have a barrel exhaust. It's a free flow one and sound is well within the legal limits. The thump is enjoyable. Don't go for desi Sharkmouths or dolphins. The glasswool inside burns out very quickly and they lose their benefit.

I don't use RE engine oil. I use either valvoline or motul 15w40. The engine is smooth and silent post this change.

The more you ride, the more you realise how robust this machine is. The bull is best ridden at 80. I have taken mine to Leh, done many interstate rides and the bike feels still as good as new.
The carbs in these ones are butterfly carbs. Once adjusted they don't need any further tampering except routine cleaning at service.

Keep riding and thumping.
Nice thread.

[ArizonaJim]

Excellent advice knrn.
Speaking of electrical gremlins, one of the best things a new owner of a Royal Enfield 350 or 500 cc can do is to carefully examine all of the wiring they can easily see.

Look for any place that the where the wiring can be close to any part of the frame or body parts. On my 500, I found several places where the wires were either touching or almost touching the engine head steady (the brace that runs from the rear of the cylinder head to the frame), the battery cover (when it is installed) and a few brackets which were welded to the frame. If these were left unprotected, over time they could rub and chafe at these points and have their insulation and electrical tape wrapping worn off. If this happens, the resulting short circuit can blow fuses and put the machine out of action.

To protect these wires that are "almost rubbing" against a steel part, cover the wire with some sort of protection.
To do this, I bought a few feet of vinyl tubing. One is about 6 mm and one is about 8 mm in diameter.
Using a sharp knife or razor blade, I cut off a short length of the tubing 3 to 5 cm long and slit it down the side from end to end.
Opening this slit up allowed me to put the wire/wires inside the tube which totally protects them in the areas where they might be harmed.

Ride safe everyone.

[green_ninja]

Originally Posted by knrn

Hi.
Read your entire thread today. Sorry to hear about your buying experience but the bike makes up for it.

Yes. The bike has definitely made me forget all the bad memories associated with the buying experience. When it works nothing can beat the RE in terms of biking pleasure.

Bullets are tough machines. Pure mechanical strength at its best. The electricals will be your only gripe......

I'm already having some minor issues with the electrical switches and such. I have changed the bulbs to 60/55 based on advice from TBhp and haven't had any issues so far. As far as the service centre goes, I have been getting decent service from the RE owned service centre. If my only choice was a dealer owned one I'll be looking for a FNG. Hope the RE service centre will continue to provide decent service.

Get a wider rear tyre. 3.50 to be precise. Improved stability and high speed behaviour plus better braking are added bonuses not to mention looks.

A tyre change is definitely on the list. When the stock tyre goes out I will replace it with a 3.50. I have seen CEAT and MRF Nylogrip in that size. Is there anything better available?

You can change exhaust if you want to........

Not a big fan of aftermarket exhausts. I'm okay with the "noise" levels of the stock exhaust but it is the rust that I don't like. I might have to replace it with something else when the rusting gets worse.

I don't use RE engine oil. I use either valvoline or motul 15w40. The engine is smooth and silent post this change.

Thanks for the tip. I have been using the RE oil till now. I'll try one of the above at the next oil change.

The more you ride, the more you realise how robust this machine is. The bull is best ridden at 80. I have taken mine to Leh, done many interstate rides and the bike feels still as good as new.
The carbs in these ones are butterfly carbs. Once adjusted they don't need any further tampering except routine cleaning at service.

Keep riding and thumping.
Nice thread.

True. Even with all the gripes and whines the bike still puts a smile on my face every time I get the chance to hit the open roads. My riding is limited to city streets 90% of the time.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

.......
To protect these wires that are "almost rubbing" against a steel part, cover the wire with some sort of protection.
To do this, I bought a few feet of vinyl tubing. One is about 6 mm and one is about 8 mm in diameter.


Ride safe everyone.

Excellent idea!!! I'll have to look into this.

[knrn]

Plenty of options in 3.50 tyres. I have a Birla roadmaxx. Semi A/T types. Good grip and ride. Do check out ezeeride from mrf. They are really nice. The variety is so vast that it will be tough deciding but once you go out and have a look you will be able to find the right one easily.

Rusting was why I changed my exhaust too. Barrel had the best finish. I have mine in black. So that's why changed it.

The RE centre in my city is not very good. I am glad that you have a better facility. It is the love for the bike that one wants it to be handled by an expert so that's why I had suggested.

The problem with RE oils is it burns out too quickly. You will feel the difference once you change your oil.

No better bike for city commuting. It is almost effortless to ride. Try riding a Honda or any other vehicle. You will find it tough. The bullet rather spoils you in terms of driving pleasure.

Good to hear from you.
Keep thumping.

[green_ninja]

Originally Posted by knrn

Plenty of options in 3.50 tyres. I have a Birla roadmaxx. Semi A/T types. Good grip and ride. Do check out ezeeride from mrf. They are really nice. The variety is so vast that it will be tough deciding but once you go out and have a look you will be able to find the right one easily.

Thanks! I'll check both of them out.

I like the MRF Zapper tread pattern but I don't think it is available in 3.25 or 3.50. Is it possible to fit a 100/90 without any modifications?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by green_ninja

Is it possible to fit a 100/90 without any modifications?

The recommended means of up/down-sizing tyres is to first find out what size rim's your motorcycle uses, it is punched on the rim and you'll find it if you look closely.

Once you've found that out, the next thing you do is seek the help of an application chart, attaching one for your perusal, you can find better ones online.

The reason for this emphasis is safety of both rider and motorcycle.

Regards,
A.P.

[green_ninja]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The recommended means of up/down-sizing tyres is to first find out what size rim's your motorcycle uses, it is punched on the rim and you'll find it if you look closely.

Once you've found that out, the next thing you do is seek the help of an application chart, attaching one for your perusal, you can find better ones online.

The reason for this emphasis is safety of both rider and motorcycle.

Regards,
A.P.

Thanks ashwinprakas! The rim marking is 185x19. So, according to the chart I guess I can fit 3.50 or 90/90 without any need for a rim change. Anything else is out of the question.

[knrn]

For fitting a 100/90 or broader tyre, you will need to change the rear swing arm of the bike with that of the classic which has a broader swing arm to accommodate the broader tyre. Moreover 100/90 means it's a tubeless tyre. You will need to modify your rims to alloys or broader ones from the classic stable. Something I won't recommend. Rather no one will. You can fit a 3.75 too but it will be a bit of squeeze. It will look bulbous. If you wanted a broader rear tyre then classic would have made more sense.
Simply go for a 3.50 you will not regret it.

[RGK]

I replaced my Electra tail lamp with the RE Classic set. It is not a straightforward job.

Things purchased and reused :

• Metal Bracket (Different from Electra)
• Number Plate (Different from Electra)
• 6 Screws (3 For Classic's Round Tail Lamp & 3 For Classic's Number Plate)
• 2 Front Indicator Glasses (Electra came with transparent one whereas Classic come with Yellow)
• New Indicator set (Electra's was reused)
• Bulb (Electra's tail lamp bulb was reused)
• Small Rectangle Reflector (Electra's was reused)
• Rubber sleeve for the metal bracket (Electra's was reused)

Need to drill two holes on the mudguard to fit the Classic metal bracket. Need to update the license plate.

[green_ninja]

Originally Posted by RGK

I replaced my Electra tail lamp with the RE Classic set. It is not a straightforward job......

I love the look. I think this is a much better look than the stock Electra tail lamp. Thanks for sharing.

Can you please post the side profile of the bike and a straight line of sight pic of the rear if possible.

[RGK]

Originally Posted by green_ninja

Can you please post the side profile of the bike and a straight line of sight pic of the rear if possible.

Please find the photos taken in the evening.

[green_ninja]

It's been a while since I last updated this thread. The pandemic and my work related travel has limited my riding the Electra. Odometer reading was 27759 and I finally found time to take the bike for an oil change that was to be done at 27000. I took the bike to Bharat Automotives RE Service Center in Coimbatore. The Electra has always been serviced at this centre but there was a change this time around. This ASS was owned and operated by RE previously but now it is dealer owned and operated. The service experience seems to be much worse than before.

Let me describe in detail. I had taken the bike only for a routine oil change and check-up. The only item from my side was to adjust the chain tension and to check what appeared to be a small oil leak from the oil drain plug. The SA (Mr. Mohan) pointed out that the carb's rubber flange was cracked and needed to be changed. They had pointed this out at the previous two services but they did not have the part in stock. So it was postponed to the next service and so on. This time, I approved the change and they took the bike in on 16/06/22.

On the morning of 17/06/22 I received a call from the SA and he informed me that they found the sprocket set to be weak after adjusting chain tension and the set needs to be replaced. I was not convinced and asked them to leave it as it is. He added that there was CAM noise and it needs to be adjusted but I can do it while changing the sprocket set as it will save labour charges. I told them to do it at the next service. Later during the day (around 3PM), the SA called me to inform that the service was completed and gave me all the details. They had done oil change, drain plug, air filter and replaced the carb rubber flange and tuned the carb.He added that the one-way clutch (sprag clutch) was weak and needs to be replaced. I was again not convinced and told him that I will decide later.

I went to pick-up the bike around 5:30 PM and noticed that the bike had starting trouble and idling. I had instructed him not to do a water wash but they had done it. He apologised and removed the charges from the bill. I attributed the starting trouble and idling issues to the water wash and took delivery of the bike under the assumption that it will be fine after drying. Total bill was Rs. 3259/- However on the way home, I noticed that the bike had trouble idling and the kicker was very hard to kick. The self motor also sounded very rough and the bike was taking 10-15 attempts to start. Every time it started, the moment I gave it some throttle the sprag clutch would kick back with a grinding noise and the engine would shut off. I somehow got home and called the SA but he didn't pick up. I assumed that they had screwed up the carb tuning and decided to take it back the next day.

I took the bike back the next day (18/06/22) for a check around 10AM. They took the bike and adjusted the carb idle settings but continued to fiddle around till 12:30PM and finally came back to me and said that the sprag clutch needs to be replaced. I did not agree and informed the SA that there were no indications of sprag clutch weakness before I gave the bike for service and it had the softest start. It only took one gentle kick to start the bike. He told me that the old engine viscosity was very low and since they have changed engine oils, the viscosity of the new oil is always high and that is why the clutch was not free. NO!!! I DID NOT MAKE THIS UP!!!

I gave him a small lecture on heat cycles and asked to speak to the service manager. Another person (Mr. Daniel) who is supposed to be the front office manager came and argued with me that the part was weak and they had nothing to it. He said that if I approve, they can replace the part since they had already opened the bike or they'll just close up the bike and return it as is. I told him to return the bike and asked to speak to the service manager again.

This time, I got to meet the service manager (Mr. Rajkumar). He was very polite and listened to my argument patiently. I insisted that there was no problem with the sprag clutch before I brought the bike in for service and that the mechanics had probably damaged it during the carb tuning by cranking the engine multiple times and opening up the throttle resulting in kickback several times resulting in damage. He went in to take a look at the bike and discuss with the mechanics. He came back and agreed to fix it with no liability to me and asked me for time till evening. I agreed and left.

They called me back later in the evening and told me the bike has been fixed and I can pick it up. Went there around 6:30PM and The SA told me that they had replaced the sprag clutch bearing worth 2500/- free of cost but I had to pay the labour charges and some spares for the cam adjustment. He claimed that even after the bearing replacement, the cam was still tight and they had to adjust it. The new bill was for Rs. 1095/-. I was in no mood to argue any further and just paid the bill and took the bike home.

The kicker seems much smoother than the previous day but the self start still has a short grinding noise that I feel did not exist before I took the bike for service. Maybe it is psychological. I'm not sure but the bike starts and idles much better now. Overall this service visit was not a very positive experience with the exception of the service manager Mr. Rajkumar. I'm not very confident of taking my bike back to Bharat Automotives again. I'll have to find a good RE FNG in Coimbatore. Any recommendations are welcome!