[schitre05]

Originally Posted by keshav1426

Is it possible to buy this off the counter at any RE dealership ? TIA

Of course! Tubes are considered as spare parts and the authorized Service Centers should have them in stock. I have purchased a set from them for safety.

Regards

[nasirkaka]

Originally Posted by rakesh_r

The black Interceptor on the left, I presume has a windshield from the Himalayan. Is it smoked or sun film. If smoked can you share some details on from where to get one? Been hunting for my Himalayan for some time but couldn't get one.

Sorry, Mine is the baker express. :(
But yes, that windscreen is from Himalayan and is fitted using a sheet metal clamp which some local company is making and selling. Its a clear Windshield and is been converted to a smoked tinted look, using (if i remember correctly) some sort of a film. Will try and find out details and share.

[yesyeswe]

Has anyone been able to change the headlight glass to the clear one?

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

Has anyone been able to change the headlight glass to the clear one?

You would not be able to change just the glass but the complete head light set which comes with the glass/reflector. They are sealed beams with the provision of replacing Bulbs. Not sure on the costing of the Himalayan Clear One though.

[amrutmhatre90]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

You would not be able to change just the glass but the complete head light set which comes with the glass/reflector. They are sealed beams with the provision of replacing Bulbs. Not sure on the costing of the Himalayan Clear One though.

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

Has anyone been able to change the headlight glass to the clear one?

+1 Entire housing needs to be changed. The entire Himalayan headlamp housing costs around 5-6K.
It would be feasible to get the bulb changed if you find the headlight throw to be poor.

[yesyeswe]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

You would not be able to change just the glass but the complete head light set which comes with the glass/reflector. They are sealed beams with the provision of replacing Bulbs. Not sure on the costing of the Himalayan Clear One though.

Originally Posted by amrutmhatre90

+1 Entire housing needs to be changed. The entire Himalayan headlamp housing costs around 5-6K.
It would be feasible to get the bulb changed if you find the headlight throw to be poor.

What about the thunderbird setup with the projector headlamp, do you think it would be possible install that in our bikes? Has anyone known tried it?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

What about the thunderbird setup with the projector headlamp, do you think it would be possible install that in our bikes? Has anyone known tried it?

The headlight unit on the Interceptor seems to be of generic mount design, in which case it can be replaced with any other headlight unit with the generic mount holes on either sides.

Last time a headlight unit cost me 650/- OEM for HH, you can get parts separately I,e measure the size of your sealed beam, then use Google and find out what other motorcycles have similar size sealed beams, then buy one of your choice and swap, as simple as that.

[CarManMotorcycl]

Hello people, Christmas came a bit late to me but I would say it was worth it! Presenting to you my Black Widow! I'll be putting up an ownership experience after I ride enough to judge her. Sorry for the quality of the pics, I wanted to click some pics on my DSLR but i was too excited to do that!

[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

What about the thunderbird setup with the projector headlamp, do you think it would be possible install that in our bikes? Has anyone known tried it?

I would still suggest you to go in for a pair of aux lights to complement the whole looks...TB looks good and should match considering it's a seven inch but your aesthetics will take a hit

[ianuoui]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

The stuff looks real good, do keep us posted on how your experimentation goes. Congrats on your ride, was not aware that you too joined the bandwagon of the twins. Do post some pictures of your bike

Good Luck..

Thank you sir!

I am indeed aboard the hype train, and i must say, it's be a good ride so far! Got myself the RR and have put about 5K Kms on it since June.



Notable Mods:

The usual suspects:[list][*]Seat: Wanted to get the seat's foam padded/replaced on the OE base plate at Rao's, like what people usually do, but realized that the OE fiber/plastic base plate was pliant, and this would be good opportunity to address it. Instead figured i would probably get the base plate fabricated and solve both issues in one go. The more time i spent with the fabricator, who was teasing me with the old RX100's seat, the more it was growing on me -- not gonna lie -- (images below for reference). It was either the familiarity of the seat or its well rounded proportions, the decision was easy. If only the seat and trim (aluminum beeding) dint taper upwards at the back, i would have installed the seat lock pin, removed the seat railing and called it a day. (sigh!) The gap between the seat and the rear mudguard was fairly noticeable, and those aluminum trims are pre bent into shape . So i ended up getting a new seat base plate, seat foam and a seat lock pin, padded the seat at the back to cover the gap, and shaped it to resemble the stock seat for now. When i get around to source an aluminum trim i like, will go back to work on the seat and finish it. For now i have the stock seat as is for the city and a separate seat firm and better padded for long-ish rides.

• Lights: As woefully inadequate the stock headlights are, i dint want to change the stock headlight beam/lens. Dint want to mess with the looks . Instead picked up a pair of 40W LED unit to serve as aux lights that i get to add/remove for highway/city riding respectively. The additional aux port in the headlight bucket made this a no brainer DIY.

• Suspension: The front end is fairly well sorted for the most part. I dint want to fiddle with it until i understood the OE setup. So i started out by figuring out the sag values for my weight, picked up a pair of pre-load adjusters and went about dialing it in. With only 110mm travel, and rider's sag being roughly about 9% of that (for my weight), dialing in the preload was effectively eating into the suspension travel without doing much to the ride quality.

So the next step was to find a spring with a different spring rate and then see if i could have it work for the same tuned length. On inspecting the TB and Himalayan springs, i suspected the Himalayan "could" probably give me more room to work with (both in terms of a plush ride and some additional suspension travel).

Side by side, the OE stock suspension spring + spacer is indicated by the red line, while the Himalayan spring is indicated by the green line below. The Himalayan spring is slightly shorter than the stock spring+spacer.

With all else being the same, swapping just the stock springs+spacer for the Himalayan spring would have the front end of the bike squat lower by roughly 2 cm. I have added a spacer to fix this and increase the suspension length ever so slightly. This setup renders the suspension slightly more plush compared to the stock setup, but is eager to dive on hard braking. I feel the increase of the overall volume in the suspension will now need to be compensated with additional oil in the place of displaced spacer + more air.

In the forthcoming weeks, i would be experimenting with the volume of oil (same grade) and dialing in the preload to fine tune it. Will keep this thread updated on my findings along the way.

PS: I am treading new ground here with suspension and putting most of my theoretical understanding to the test. If you guys see any flaws in my assumptions or understanding, do feel free to call them out. I would be happy to course correct!

Originally Posted by ashishk29

Where did you source the preload adjusters from? The quality looks good.

These are generic preload adjusters for a 41mm fork. While you may not find many (or ones moderately priced) for the INT 650 exclusively, there are plenty of good quality and affordable ones out there for the Yamaha R3. And here's a little secret, any of those would do too - it's a direct fit.


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[Biker Ram]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Thanks! That will be really great. I am so used to the 310gs riding geometry, would prefer to the interceptor as close to it as feasible. But I am still wondering why you intend to switch back to the stock peg position as from your post, it seems like you are happy with and like the Indimotard footpeg re-locator.
.

I've gone back to stock and I'm liking the slightly rear-set placement.
By the way, I don't see a private message or email option to get in touch with you. Can you try contacting me please. Apologies for the open post.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ianuoui

Suspension: In the forthcoming weeks, i would be experimenting with the volume of oil (same grade) and dialing in the preload to fine tune it

Love the work you’re doing on the suspension. You’ve effectively added more usable travel to your forks. With the lack of options in our market, it’s important to be a bit of a mad scientist and make things work the way you want them to. Few questions:

- have you utilised the pre load adjuster to it’s full extent? If not, why not use that instead of experimenting with oil quantity?
- if you have maxed out the pre load, then again why not use a longer spacer for the spring to add the necessary pre load? Having tried both options (spacer and oil) on my Impulse; I can tell you that the spacer mod is a whole lot more reliable and you can accurately dial in the pre load. My recommendation is to start with a simple half inch and keep adding half and inch till you get to your desired results. For reference, I have a one inch spacer in my Impulse and it works great

Lastly, and I’m no expert here but I feel adding pre load doesn’t exactly eat into your suspension travel. Imo it takes a little more force for the spring to compress. Also do maintain proper sag and don’t eliminate it completely. While we need suspension travel as we hit bumps and ruts, we also need sag for the suspension to “fall into” the undulations, making the ride “flat”. 25-30% is usually the sweet spot in terms of rider sag

On a side note, here’s my 390 duke undergoing some suspension upgrade. Have transplanted the front end from an xpulse with stiffer springs. Still need to lace up a 19 front which will be done by month end I suppose (along with some other odds and ends - proper handguards, seat luggage carrier etc). All the best and do keep us posted

[ianuoui]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Few questions:

- have you utilised the pre load adjuster to it’s full extent? If not, why not use that instead of experimenting with oil quantity?
- if you have maxed out the pre load, then again why not use a longer spacer for the spring to add the necessary pre load? Having tried both options (spacer and oil) on my Impulse; I can tell you that the spacer mod is a whole lot more reliable and you can accurately dial in the pre load. My recommendation is to start with a simple half inch and keep adding half and inch till you get to your desired results. For reference, I have a one inch spacer in my Impulse and it works great

Adding spacers to the stock setup is a good alternative, but then you end up reducing the trail (without sizing up to a larger wheel at the front - which i do not plan to do). The front end would then become twitchy, and though this is no superbike, the rear end would squat(even if ever so slightly) as well at higher speeds. I would hate to loose any of its highway manners as much as possible. The stock setup to begin with, had its triple tree lowered with the forks protruding above the top plate by half an inch - which i now understand why.

The 25-30% rider's sag you speak of is ideal for ADV's. With the stock suspension's numbers barely at 10% for my weight, I aim to achieve anywhere around 15-20% to strike a good balance for highway and city use respectively. Tuning it for any higher values would (IMHO) need much better quality springs not just at the front but at the rear as well.

Once i realized i needed springs with a different rate, i choose the Himalayan springs in the hopes of adding more travel and using preload to bring it close to the stock suspension length, for a better ride quality within the city. This is similar to using a harder spring with no preload; just that in my case however, i get to have more room to play with on how hard i want the suspension to get before it's rendered useless.

Using softer springs without spacers dropped the front end of the bike by 2cm as previously stated, and well over an 1.25 inches with me on it. So i have indeed added spacers (1.5 inch) to fix the rider's triangle even before using the preload adjusters. Now doing so has increased the overall suspension length by a little over an inch - and thus the internal volume within the suspension (more "air spring" than before).

With the current setup, the ride is plush within the city, but on hard/panic braking, the bike is eager to dive. I could use a taller spacer, but anything taller than what i already have would raise the front end and mess with the trail. Also I don't need hardness, i need progression towards end of the stroke. So instead, i choose to increase the volume of oil to reduce the volume of air (increasing its compression ratio) which would be handy in dampening the last part of suspension's stroke (which is what my setup needs).

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

Lastly, and I’m no expert here but I feel adding pre load doesn’t exactly eat into your suspension travel. Imo it takes a little more force for the spring to compress.

I apologize, for i should have been more precise. I meant that the added preload was eating into the static sag values not the overall suspension travel.

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

On a side note, here’s my 390 duke undergoing some suspension upgrade. Have transplanted the front end from an xpulse with stiffer springs. Still need to lace up a 19 front which will be done by month end I suppose (along with some other odds and ends - proper handguards, seat luggage carrier etc). All the best and do keep us posted

A x-pulse suspension on the Duke 390 - now that's a total "madlad" project! Please tell me you have documented your thinking process/learning on a thread somewhere (please do point me to it) that i could read. It would certainly help compare notes.

[KL54]

I'm trying to understand if the stock air filter needs to be upgraded to a DNA air filterhttps://www.dnafilters.com/en/catego.../Royal-Enfield. I have read the company spiel and watched the review videos too.

Wanted to get some pointers from the T-BHP RE twins fraternity - possibly from those who have made the upgrade:

1. Is the upgrade an absolute must? How big is the difference - noticeable?
2. The stage 2 kit - which is essentially a cover to keep the filter in place. Is that required too?

Lastly any cons of the upgrade would be heaps appreciated. Thanks!

[timuseravan]

Originally Posted by KL54

I'm trying to understand if the stock air filter needs to be upgraded to a DNA air filter

The free-flow filters (with no other mods) will give you 2-3% power/speed improvement at best. The only real advantage is that you can just wash and reuse it without having to replace the filter. You have to decide if the small improvements justify the high price.

Typically free-flow filters are part of complete performance tunning setup which would include remapping and performance exhausts. On its own it has almost no noticeable effect.