[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

So shortening the gearing does increase wheel power at lower speeds as the engine is running faster and more power is made as the engine rpm increases.

This is the part where we both have no doubts i.e the engine revs up faster and more power is felt as the RPM increases and nears the power band.

The added power at lower speeds increases acceleration.

But the same cannot be applied here and generalized because it depends on motorcycle, by shortening the gearing you do get more oomph at the rear wheel but that doesn't necessarily aid in acceleration i.e time taken to cover a fixed distance.

In certain cases it can also make the motorcycle slower to hit a fixed speed due to the power band and individual gear ratios of said motorcycle.

Hence why I insist on doing research before taking the plunge, especially nearing a big ride.

Cause either way I've gone I did eventually get back to stock, which as experience has proven is the case with everyone i.e unless the motorcycle is used for a single minded purpose and not used to travel far, stunt junkies and their motorcycles being the best example with those insanely large rear sprockets.

Conversely, increasing the gearing for higher top speed may not work because engine rpm decreases for the same speed and there is less power at lower speeds. This is why many vehicles with over driven top gears achieve top speed in 1 gear lower.

Again like the answer to all economic questions, it depends.

My CT100B is the best user case as it hits max possible engine RPM in final gear in stock setup i,e ideal candidate for top speed gain with overgearing.

Now at a taller gear ratio from FD 3.00 to 2.80, I have noticed that with me onboard the motorcycle has issues hitting previously achieved top speeds in final gear i.e I can achieve the same speeds but with noticeably reduced acceleration on the highways, acceleration is not an issue in 1 Gear lower i.e until I hit the RPM ceiling.

But recently while I was at TVM I met up with a friend and fellow enthusiast who wanted me to sample his recently rebuilt P220 that he redid himself, so on his P220 I accelerated to a 100kmph and and was surprised to find him on my CT100B keeping pace with me.

The same motorcycle responds quite differently with different riders on board, if not obvious I am the heavy one. We have swapped motorcycles before as well and on the stock gearing the difference in acceleration and top speed wasn't that obvious i.e we both accelerate swiftly to 80kmph and then from there tapper off to a 100kmph on KL roads.

Now with him on board the motorcycle swiftly accelerates to well over 100kmph on KL roads, a speed that was un-achieved at such a rate of acceleration, more emphasis to acceleration as we only have the same limited stretch to crack open the throttle without getting in trouble with the law.

Now its not all downhill with the 15T because the motorcycle is more tractable in lower gears, as it reduces the number of shifts when maneuvering the motorcycle at sub 50kmph speeds, I can hold on to lower gears a lot longer and maneuver or rather tractor uphill trails with quite a bit of ease compared to stock which was irritatingly short when it came to using the first 2 gears. The improvement is felt even on acceleration covering similar distances as the reduced number of shifts to attain higher speeds is quite noticeable on the same rural roads(not highways) where I usually commute as I'm now clocking quite higher speeds than before, before needing to slowdown to take a turn or what not.

So to reiterate, I'd still suggest it best to do adequate research before making any changes because the variables are quite a bit to generalize cause and effect.

Originally Posted by camitesh

I upgraded from 14T stock to 15T front sprocket for my touring needs at the loss of some initial torque and much relaxed cruising at 80-90 kmph while touring.

We did the same on my friends FZ16 as I had a 15T from the Unicorn laying around as the spline size wasn't a match for my CT100B, on level roads he liked the setup but the moment we hit rural roads with uphill inclines he lost interest and we swapped back to the stock 14T on return, problem was being in the power band and maintaining momentum uphill, he had to shift more and accelerate more to go uphill and wasn't particularly liking it as his motorcycle was from the first lot and his average on sock setup itself was in the lower to mid 30's.

Cheers,
A.P.

[Red Liner]

Potentially my next set of tyres for the monsoons.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Potentially my next set of tyres for the monsoons.

Timsun's for monsoon riding on the 390? I see you like to live dangerously!

Jokes apart, do give these a shot;

Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR







They cost a kidney and would require an upsize but fellow enthusiasts swear by them, you could have a closer look at your rims to know its size(size is punched) once you have that you could use a size comparison chart to determine suitable sizes for your motorcycle.

Unless you plan to stick to slush and mud alone, I'd suggest you look elsewhere than the Timsun's as wet grip on tarmac is questionable and concerning when used on the likes of the 390.

Ride Safe!

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Timsun's for monsoon riding on the 390? I see you like to live dangerously!

Jokes apart, do give these a shot;



Ride Safe!

STRs are not available for the 390 adventure. The 390 does 100/19 for the front and 130/17 for the rear. Rallys start at 120/19 for the front.

When i say monsoon riding, its offroad. On road, i wouldn't cross 90 on wet tarmac and 100 on dry with any kind of offroad dual purpose tyres.

I have used Timsun, albeit a very different pattern on my Versys for over 30k kms. I was quite impressed on my rides to MP over 20 days and to Orissa for a week. The Versys group of those who do relaxed speeds promptly followed in switching to the Timsun.

Ps: i dont cross 110 on the 390 adventure on the highway even with the stock rubber. Riding fast on tarmac is not my thing.

[Red Liner]

A short clip of the fall here.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CA1zq3rA...d=d6nwkudhdmyq
That barb wire was seriously close! Praise the lord.

[Motard_Blr]

Have you tried Vee rubber? I don't know about availability but they are good quality and pricing should be reasonable.

https://veerubberindia.com/product/?body=motocross-tire

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

Have you tried Vee rubber? I don't know about availability but they are good quality and pricing should be reasonable.

https://veerubberindia.com/product/?body=motocross-tire

Just had a look at them. VRM 163 is very close to what we have as the stock pattern. No other option unfortunately.

[Red Liner]

All those who said this bike can't offroad, please stand up

[TheVaas]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

https://www.instagram.com/p/CA1zq3rA...d=d6nwkudhdmyq
That barb wire was seriously close! Praise the lord.

OH MAN! Your right knee just landed straight into the ground. Hope it wasn't as 'heart stopping or joint-splitting' as the video angle makes it seem! Less said about the barb wire distancing the better! Glad to know you safe

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by TheVaas

OH MAN! Your right knee just landed straight into the ground. Hope it wasn't as 'heart stopping or joint-splitting' as the video angle makes it seem! Less said about the barb wire distancing the better! Glad to know you safe

Had forcefield soft knee guards under those pants, so i was saved of knee injury for sure. The guys thought i was snagged in the barb wire, but i was pinned under the bike.

Here's the full clip of the picture a post above.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBDgnjXg...=1beaohw4k6zx6

390 adventure not an offroad bike? Says who?

[Red Liner]

https://youtu.be/yCKetHqGAyc

[black12rr]

The jump was scary , but doable

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

https://Youtu.be/yCKetHqGAyc

Standing on the foot pegs while crossing big obstacles is mandatory. I see that a lot of riders are visibly uncomfortable and reluctant standing up on the foot pegs. That can't be a good approach to riding off-road.

As with most things in life, the right technique is more effective, efficient, safer and faster than just improvising. Having an experienced instructor such as the one at Big Rock Off-road is a great advantage to better learning.

Thanks for the video!

[Red Liner]

From a training session at Big Rock Dirt Park

[nitro.1000bhp]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

Standing on the foot pegs while crossing big obstacles is mandatory. I see that a lot of riders are visibly uncomfortable and reluctant standing up on the foot pegs. That can't be a good approach to riding off-road.

As with most things in life, the right technique is more effective, efficient, safer and faster than just improvising. Having an experienced instructor such as the one at Big Rock Off-road is a great advantage to better learning.

Thanks for the video!

It's not enough if you simply stand on the pegs. You need to shift weight balance front to back depending on the pitch/attitude of the bike. I see some standing on the pegs but are still leaning forward while landing. This could go wrong quite badly if you land on the front wheel and go over the bars or worse , get run over by your own vehicle. It's a rule of thumb to land with both wheels flat or atleast with the rear wheel first. This way the steering stays straight after landing and is not forced to turn one way or the other.