[rb2399]

A long pending update from my side.

The bike has just completed the 30,000 KMs mark. The performance so far has been flawless with no major issues to report for the stock bike itself (barring the odd rattles).

I have the carbon racing touring windshield installed (https://carbonracing.in/collections/...-combo-package) and of late the allen bolts that hold the windshield become loose over a period of time. I've written to the Carbon Racing guys but yet to hear back from them. Anyone here has faced this ?

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by rb2399

Anyone here has faced this ?

Attachment 2201545

Nice one. Any other long rides you did in the interim?

Just use thread locker blue from Loctite, and they won't come out anymore.

[rb2399]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Nice one. Any other long rides you did in the interim?

Unfortunately no , just the city runs

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Just use thread locker blue from Loctite, and they won't come out anymore.

Have tried using Loctite with little or no use !

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by derek

I too find no difference in using an iridium plug on my interceptor, think the stronger spark etc etc is all hogwash

However in keen on a powertronics and the filter. Any ideas/experience/suggestions?

The spark plug I just threw in for good measure lol

Originally Posted by rb2399

I switched over to NGK LKAR8AI9 Iridium Spark Plug during the first service.Honestly speaking, there's no discernible difference felt since the change over (during cold cranking or regular running). Sticking to OE Bosch makes sense in my opinion !

Iridum plugs aren't over-rated they are one of the modern marvels of spark plug technology. Iridum plugs and normal plugs produce spark the same way, what differs is how long they last. On a normal plug, the center electrode loses its ability to produce and jump spark and starts to discolour/corode and in worse cases, fail completely during a routing clean up.

Iridum plugs are almost zero maintenance, the center electrode being iridium doesn't corrode and the tip being sharp, produces, precise, concise spark, which means better combustion, which in turn equates to higher service life. The latter being one of the predominant reasons why Iridium tipped plugs are adopted by OEMs.

If replacing plugs periodically is not your thing, then Iridium is the way to go. Iridum does show its wonderful characteristics of precise sparking during cold conditions when compared to stock plugs, but once warm the difference is negligible, and remember clean spark equals lesser plug tip carbon deposits and that adds to the life.

Originally Posted by derek

Guys how many here are using

1. A powercommander/powertronics.
2. After market filter
3. Aftermarket spark plugs.

All or any of the above combination? Please give ur suggestions or experience. Thank you.

In their chronological order.

1. Use these computers with a thorough tune-up and add ons. Using just the computer without altering the air flow metrics won't result in great performance. A lot depends on the maps too. These change the character of the vehicle to a great extent. Always get an expert tuner opinion on whats and what nots. They are a great investment, no doubt.

2. Don't. If there's one thing that's hyped, it's not the spark plug, it's the dreaded after market AFs. They are good, agreed, but they perform best when used in tandem with properly adjusted air fuel ratio/mapping. Simply plonking the expensive FFAF, with lean burn BS6 engines will result in a superficial placebo effect, and overall with the dusty conditions we're in, stock gives good filtration and your engine will thank you for sticking to stock.

3. My advice, if you can afford it, go for it, there's no real harm. If it helps, even a little bit, it helps, I always say. I've explained about this above.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[derek]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

In their chronological order.

1. Use these computers with a thorough tune-up and add ons. Using just the computer without altering the air flow metrics won't result in great performance. A lot depends on the maps too. These change the character of the vehicle to a great extent. Always get an expert tuner opinion on whats and what nots. They are a great investment, no doubt.

2. Don't. If there's one thing that's hyped, it's not the spark plug, it's the dreaded after market AFs. They are good, agreed, but they perform best when used in tandem with properly adjusted air fuel ratio/mapping. Simply plonking the expensive FFAF, with lean burn BS6 engines will result in a superficial placebo effect, and overall with the dusty conditions we're in, stock gives good filtration and your engine will thank you for sticking to stock.

3. My advice, if you can afford it, go for it, there's no real harm. If it helps, even a little bit, it helps, I always say. I've explained about this above.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks so much for your time and effort in replying!
Im very keen on trying the powertronics. I definitely will get it setup and tuned by a professional that’s for sure. The best guys to install this would be the powertronics guys themselves I assume? This along with a an after market filter would then be the correct way to use it I would feel? My bike is just about 1200 kms old. Should I wait for a few thousand,or can the powertronics be fitted and be beneficial even now?

One iridium plug on the way…… thank you!

[surajram]

Originally Posted by girishv

This can be set/reset by anybody and most probably the default still is 5k.
On my 2015 duke 390, the service guy (not from KTM) went to the service due screen by pressing the left buttons, there he kept the two buttons pressed for few seconds and the next service due got reset to 5000 km again.

I assumed that this would be a technician's input (and not the right interval) and with my ride. Upon checking with my service center - the technician was recommending a 5000 Km interval instead of 7500 Km with no logical reason (Claimed reasoning was bikes that run on highways need more frequent oil changes ). I've chosen to wait till 8K-8.5K for the next service & oil change.

An you are right - it's pretty simple to reset the service light indicator.

Video

This video provides instructions to reset the same on the 390 Adventure.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by derek

Thanks Jaggu! Any reason why a K&N and not a BMC or DNA? Also, the filter will bring in more air, to an already lean machine (BS6). Or am I off with my thought process? So unless using a full exhaust system, the benefit of an aftermarket filter is not much?

Thanks for your quick response!

I got a good deal for K&N that is all, plus I have always used the K&N (except for the Thar) and found the quality of the rubber and filter to be little better. WRT leaning out, I had the same doubt but I guess modern ECU's will dynamically adjust the fuel ratio to keep it within the range. So that should not be an issue. Another reason why I went back n forth with filters to see how they perform and my conclusion was K&N was slightly better. Is it worth the money, definitely not since the OE filters are pretty good otherwise and are cheap.

[nutcracker]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Iridum plugs aren't over-rated they are one of the modern marvels of spark plug technology. Iridum plugs and normal plugs produce spark the same way, what differs is how long they last. On a normal plug, the center electrode loses its ability to produce and jump spark and starts to discolour/corode and in worse cases, fail completely during a routing clean up.

Iridum plugs are almost zero maintenance, the center electrode being iridium doesn't corrode and the tip being sharp, produces, precise, concise spark, which means better combustion, which in turn equates to higher service life. The latter being one of the predominant reasons why Iridium tipped plugs are adopted by OEMs.

If replacing plugs periodically is not your thing, then Iridium is the way to go. Iridum does show its wonderful characteristics of precise sparking during cold conditions when compared to stock plugs, but once warm the difference is negligible, and remember clean spark equals lesser plug tip carbon deposits and that adds to the life.

I replaced the OEM spark plug on my 390 Adv with an NGK Iridium spark plug. There was no difference whatsoever in performance.

[derek]

Originally Posted by nutcracker

I replaced the OEM spark plug on my 390 Adv with an NGK Iridium spark plug. There was no difference whatsoever in performance.

There won’t be. I think he mentioned other benefits of the iridium over the stock plug.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

I got a good deal for K&N that is all, plus I have always used the K&N (except for the Thar) and found the quality of the rubber and filter to be little better. WRT leaning out, I had the same doubt but I guess modern ECU's will dynamically adjust the fuel ratio to keep it within the range. So that should not be an issue. Another reason why I went back n forth with filters to see how they perform and my conclusion was K&N was slightly better. Is it worth the money, definitely not since the OE filters are pretty good otherwise and are cheap.

Modern ecu like the one on our 390 adv can adjust it dynamically throughout the fuel range?

Thanks for the reasoning of the k&n.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by derek

Modern ecu like the one on our 390 adv can adjust it dynamically throughout the fuel range?

No way I can confirm without taking an AFR reading, but I guess due to the emission norms they have to. Maybe next test it to do a PUC reading with both the filters, but the darn machines are not that great with regards to sensitivity so not sure if it will show a change.

[Arv1990]

Originally Posted by derek

Guys how many here are using

1. A powercommander/powertronics.
2. After market filter
3. Aftermarket spark plugs.

All or any of the above combination? Please give ur suggestions or experience. Thank you.

2. After Market Filter - I have been on the BMC filter with a UNI pre filter for the last 8,000 odd kms, I have also switched back to the stock filter for comparison. Result - With the BMC and UNI, I find the low end to be much more accessible and a lot more smoother.

On another note, had a good trail hunting session last Sunday. With the front mud guard cut off to about mid point (just ahead of the forks) and having it replaced it with the Xpulse fender, I must say it hasn't helped much With a mixture of roots, twigs and clay, CAKED was an understatement.



One thing I learnt during such times is to try and clear the clogged mud/clay as soon as possible no matter where its stuck - front fender, bash plate, rear suspension, calipers, swing arm, pegs. The longer you leave it, the harder it gets, especially anything stuck ahead of the engine or over the exhaust since the heat will cook all the muck and is almost as good as a block of rock. Just one allen key bolt on the right hand behind the fork removed to access the underside of the left over stock fender and almost everything was scrapped off with a random piece for twig.



Also something I learnt post this incident, frequent hard taps on the stock fender before it can get completely caked will also help, must be realised sooner though.

[derek]

Originally Posted by Arv1990

2. After Market Filter - I have been on the BMC filter with a UNI pre filter for the last 8,000 odd kms, I have also switched back to the stock filter for comparison. Result - With the BMC and UNI, I find the low end to be much more accessible and a lot more smoother.

.

Thanks! I see the uni pre filter looks like a sock and comes in a pair. It's available on bigbadbikes. Where exactly does it fit? I can't seem to find any video's or clear pics of where it's supposed to go.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by derek

Thanks! I see the uni pre filter looks like a sock and comes in a pair. It's available on bigbadbikes. Where exactly does it fit? I can't seem to find any video's or clear pics of where it's supposed to go.

Uni is a prefilter that goes in addition to your main air filter.

I think you are obsessing too much over extremely marginal performance gains if any.

I would just do the iridium plug switch and start riding the bike.

I would also put a very good engine oil like Amsoil. Warranty remains unaffected. That has a visible change in longer term engine performance and gear shifts.

I usually ride in extremely dusty conditions, so an air filter that allows more air and consequently more dust is out of the question for me.

And since the stock filter is so cheap, i just replace it far more often if i feel the need, like say every 2-3k and i am on my way. No messing around cleaning or oiling etc.

So pick and choose after careful consideration.

If using an after market filter, a unifilter sock is mandatory.

Originally Posted by Arv1990

With the front mud guard cut off to about mid point (just ahead of the forks) and having it replaced it with the Xpulse fender, I must say it hasn't helped much With a mixture of roots, twigs and clay, CAKED was an understatement.go.

I am sorry but the "mod" you have made does nothing for the bike in terms of actual performance as you have just found out.

Get rid of the extra extension on the back of the wheel and you have an actual high fender that eliminates the issue of mud sticking to the under of the fender and preventing the wheel from moving.

Install a high quality radiator guard to prevent the radiator from dying early from mud being splattered all over. Wash radiator often and immediately with an unpressured hose. Still,it will probably have a far more reduced life.

The mod you have does nothing apart from the bike looking "good in the eyes of the beholder". Whoever that is lol.

High fenders are usually good for air cooled dirt bikes because = intention.

[derek]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Uni is a prefilter that goes in addition to your main air filter.

I think you are obsessing too much over extremely marginal performance gains if any.

I would just do the iridium plug switch and start riding the bike.

I would also put a very good engine oil like Amsoil. Warranty remains unaffected. That has a visible change in longer term engine performance and gear shifts.

I usually ride in extremely dusty conditions, so an air filter that allows more air and consequently more dust is out of the question for me.

And since the stock filter is so cheap, i just replace it far more often if i feel the need, like say every 2-3k and i am on my way. No messing around cleaning or oiling etc.

So pick and choose after careful consideration.

If using an after market filter, a unifilter sock is mandatory.

Thanks a lot for your suggestions! I'm 42 and I'm not looking to race or have much performance gains honestly. I mean, I'm not obsessed with 1 bhp more. What I'm trying to do is maybe optimize slightly. So definitely the plug comes in, along with a filter and a uni sock. And yes oil! My bike is still just about 1200 kms old. Was looking to get the 300V2 at around 2000 kms. Plenty of good oil options! Amsoil was one of them!

Also I'm looking to try on the powertronics. Some guys tell me it's a little too aggressive. Would really be useful of someone here using the powertronics can chip in with some advice and experience! Thank you!

[neoakshay]

Originally Posted by derek

Also I'm looking to try on the powertronics. Some guys tell me it's a little too aggressive. Would really be useful of someone here using the powertronics can chip in with some advice and experience! Thank you!

Hi Derek,

I bought my Adv 390 about a month and a half ago, and just like you I'm looking to optimize. Initially the bike felt very hard-edged, with the vibes and hard gearshifts (especially 2nd to 3rd). Now that I've crossed 2k kms on the odo, it has definitely settled down and smoothened out.

I'm planning to purchase a Powertronic piggyback soon, the chaps at RaceDynamics told me it will be ready 2nd week of September. Seems they have a new model coming out for the Adv. Instead of performance I'm only looking for the benefits of correcting the overly lean BS6 tune - smoother and more relaxed engine.

I'm not sure if RaceDynamics will let me try the box before I purchase, but I've only heard good things about the piggyback, even on international forums.