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Old 24th August 2022, 11:22   #166
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

We spent some much valued time within the holy monastery, soaking in the sounds of the drums and chants that must have been played in the eons that preceded our time.


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One can only wonder about the grandeur of such a place in the mountains back in the day. But it was time to leave and head back.

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Our path returned to the mysterious lake we had passed by earlier.

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Kathok Lake is situated on the way to Norbugang Throne in Yuksam, west Sikkim there is a beautiful sacred Lake known as ‘Kathok Tsho’ or Kathok Lake. This Lake is regarded as the ‘Lahtsho’ or soul lake of Lama Kathok Kuntu Zangpo, one of the pioneer lamas who introduced Buddhism to this land in 1642 A.D.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210416_034336770.portrait.jpg

He sanctified this lake for the purpose of his oracular practices. Lamas perform Tru-sol or purification ceremony every year to retain its sanctity. A newly restored monastery named as ‘Kathok Wosel Ling’ is located above this lake.

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As we said our goodbye's, our onward journey was blessed by the holy Tibetan buddhist Khata from the angelic maidens of Yuksom.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210416_052454430.mp.jpg

It was time to leave Yuksom, said the mind. Too early to leave, rebelled the heart. Too early to leave, my love.
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Old 26th August 2022, 15:45   #167
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

Today, we were riding from Yuksom to Namchi.

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The waterfalls that we saw kept getting ginormous! Just look at this fella and the height from which he's coming down onto the road. I can only imagine what this waterfall could be like during the monsoons.

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We were on a beautiful gravel stretch, and I swear to god I had the widest smile ever plastered under my lid.

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What line would you choose across this mess?

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Anyone fancy living up there?

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The vistas were gorgeous, as always.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210416_060029402.mp.jpg

Enroute, we decided to pay a visit to the Tashiding Monastery. Tashiding Monastery is a Buddhist monastery described as the "Heart of Sikkim/Denzong", citing to its importance of religious sacredness. It is located on top of the hill rising between the Rathong chu and the Rangeet River. The annual festival of Bumchu, meaning ~Holy water is believed to predict the upcoming forecasts and events for Sikkim in the coming year. Undoubtedly, one of the most important and holiest festivals for all the Buddhists in Sikkim and around, it also provides for a perfect platform for all those Non-Buddhists who seek a deeper insight into Buddhism and its religious customs, beliefs and rituals.

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A place of residence for one of the monks. Simple and beautiful. Probably everything that one needs, but I think a motorcycle would complete the picture and dare I saw it the monk might agree!

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Prayer wheels guided by the wind. Every rotation of the prayer wheel sends out multitude blessings from the mantras inscribed on them.

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We finally came to the point where we would cross the mighty Rangeet River.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210416_080252201.mp.jpg
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Old 28th August 2022, 14:08   #168
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We still had some distance to cover to Namchi. I remember riding across this quaint bridge and looking far across towards a house built by the banks of the river flowing under. I wondered about their lives.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210416_080614843.mp.jpg

From the bridge, their lives seemed beautiful. Waking up to the sun rise and birds chirping every morning. Fetching water from the clear river flowing unhurriedly by for the kitchen and bath. Sitting by the banks for a lazy brunch of pancakes with your girl. Strolling down the forest to collect some firewood for the evening. Gazing at the sun set every evening. Does one need to be rich to lead such a life, I wonder. Why do we work so hard, so many hours a week, putting away so much money that we may never get to use?

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210416_080721897.mp.jpg

How much would it really cost to live a meaningfully idyllic life like the one painted above? Granted, a simple motorcycle and a cheap 4x4 would be infinitely useful. But does one need to slave for 40 years of ones life to live this kind of life?

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We rode through the rugged countryside that makes up this pretty part of the Sikkim country.

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I rode past this cafe that was built like a tree house on a cliff. I decided to turn back and waved my buddy down to stop over for some coffee and momos. We saw a lot of locals stopping over. Probably their version of starbucks, and I infinitely prefer this over the urban version.

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We were beginning to make strides into Namchi, and the welcome by the pine forests that enveloped the roads were stunningly magical.

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The appellation Namchi means Sky (Nam) High (Chi) in Sikkimese. Once checked into a little hotel, we spent the evening walking around the town and tucked ourselves for a pizza dinner at a little cafe.

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The next morning was utterly beautiful. I think it had rained a bit the night prior. Clouds hanging low made for a distinctly picture perfect postcard.

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We checked out of Namchi, and were on our way to the famous Temi Tea Gardens of Sikkim.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210417_034234984.portrait.jpg
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Old 30th August 2022, 09:43   #169
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The Temi Tea Garden in Temi, established in 1969 by the Government of Sikkim, is the only tea garden in Sikkim and is considered one of the best in India and the world. Top quality tea is produced, which is in demand in the international market. The garden is laid over a gradually sloping hill. The tea produced in this garden is also partly marketed under the trade name "Temi Tea". We were given a great tour of the factory.

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It was time to push on. We were going to stay for a few days at a hard to find homestay quite a bit away from the hustle and bustle of Gangtok. Riding through the verdant tea estates in the mountains of the Himalayas, we were quickly brought to a halt by a landslide clearing operation.

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We found the homestay after a bit of searching, and quickly changed over to begin exploring the deep forests behind us.

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2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210417_110506432.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210417_110502192.portrait.jpg
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Old 31st August 2022, 12:14   #170
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We were welcomed into the monastery by His Holiness Rimpo-cat. Since the monasteries, like most others, was built at an elevation, we had great views all around us. This monastery was run by 2 senior monks (young guys all the same) who were running a monastic school for children. The kid monks were all over us when we came in. It looks like hardly anyone ever visits this monastery since its way off from anywhere, and there's a bit of a hike to get here. The school had about 20 kids or so, all expenses taken care of. It was probably not easy trying to follow through on your own practice, whilst taking care of a bunch of kids in the middle of a jungle. No sir.

We spent some quality time with the kids, and since the two senior monks were not around, we promised to visit them again the next day or so. We would stay put here for the next few days anyway.

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2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210417_113908542.portrait.jpg
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Old 5th September 2022, 16:18   #171
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

We had new friends waiting for us back at the homestay!

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210418_002131921.mp.jpg

These pups were kinda abandoned overnight by their mum close by. It had rained pretty hard all night, and the kind family at the homestay decided to "adopt" them.

The morning was good, and we decided to head back to the Monastery to spend more time with the kids.

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2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210418_011617317.portrait01.jpeg
First we decided to head to a Hindu temple close by to check it out. Good call, it was serene, quiet, and beautiful.

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We spent some time there, and then climbed back up to the monastery. I walked straight into the kids quarters to do a surprise inspection! Not too shabby...

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This was the youngest kid of the lot.

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I wanted to "inspect" this closed room, but the kid just wouldn't let me! I was told this was a room full of old relics, but I suspect its just the boys stashing all their unwashed clothes in there lo!

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Since the senior monks were still not back, I spent some time on a bit of Q&A about the human body with the children. Though a "monastery", it felt more like a boarding school, with monastic and religious duties thrown in alongside regular education.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210418_043857647.mp.jpg
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Old 6th September 2022, 10:30   #172
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I hope BHP'ians don't mind that a lot of the log is about culture, meeting people in different places and actually spending time with them as opposed to taking a few photos for instagram and hitting the next gravel track.

Later that evening we managed to finally meet with the two senior monks. I had a long chat with one of them and found out he had done a specific meditation retreat that some lamas and yogis do as part of their spiritual practices. The timespan for this retreat is an arduous 13 years, 13 months, 13 days, and 13 hours! Monks usually choose a cave of some sorts, and make it habitable. Sometimes these caves are handed over from one monk to another to continue the tradition of these spiritual retreats. The caves are usually at spots that are hard to reach such that the monks can practice quietly and visitors are not encouraged to visit. It also discourages the monk from trying to go out and visit the closest village as a distraction. A village is usually close enough that the laypeople visit the monk and leave behind supplies or food for the day. But they are strictly discouraged from talking to the monk or making any kind of noise for fear of disturbing his or her practice.

The monks who undertake this special retreat have to take on a vow of silence for the duration of over 13 years to ensure complete focus on their inward journey. So far, I have met two monks who have taken on the 13 month retreat, but I haven't yet come across anyone who has completed the 13 year retreat!

This wonderful nun from the west did almost complete one though and makes for great reading: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeands...n-first-person

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I was quite sad to leave the kids behind, and made a promise that I would visit them again if I was back in Sikkim.

It rained pretty hard that evening, and the next morning presented itself with bright sunshine to make up for it.

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2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210419_040448217.portrait.jpg

It was finally time to say goodbye to our hosts and start riding towards Gangtok. We had to start planning the next leg of our trip to explore the North of Sikkim.

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The ride back was via an offbeat route and we were thrilled to have been riding on this one all the way back to Gangtok!

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2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210419_055311148.portrait.jpg
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Old 7th September 2022, 11:09   #173
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

A word about these kids who come to study at these monasteries.

During the old times, when Buddhism was still a nascent religion, monks who actually practiced buddhism were few and hard to find. The kings then, knew that religion was a sure fire way to bring people under their control - both in terms of servitude as well as in terms of following the law of the land. At the end of the day, the fear of god can be very real.

Initially the kings and the spiritual heads of Buddhism decided that every family had to send away one of their sons to become a monk. This was done in two ways. Initially, this was a forced decision to make each family contribute a monk to swell the ranks, but later it got embedded into religion in a way that it became voluntary and a deed of great sacrifice and future good karma - if one of their own was sent away to become a monk.

These children were pried away from their families at an extremely young age - say under 5 - to be sent away. This was done so that the children do not form a very deep bond of attachment to their families and vice versa. It made things easier for both of them in the early days.

In return for the kids being volunteered away by the families to join a monastery, the king would provide for the boy's education, clothing, food, medicines, and stay pretty much for free. This was a huge deal for many families, as most of them only subsisted on farming in remote villages. Life was hard and the weather was harsher.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210418_043640800.mp.jpg

In almost all cases, the child was never asked if he wanted to become a monk. He was just asked to pack his bags, and go along with the monk - typically someone who had been sent away many years back from the same village - to the monastery. Amidst wailing cries from the boy, and the mother weeping by the kitchen the son walks away with his elder brother monk to get his head shaved, and new maroon robes put on to lead the next few years of his life as a novice monk.

I always ask some of these teenager monks I meet - do you still feel monkhood is a way of life for you? Would you still want to continue? I always want to delve into deeper topics such as - aren't you curious about girls? Or aren't you wondering about the lives that your friends who aren't monks are leading? But I know that these are tough questions for teenagers anyway - monks or not!

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One young monk I met recently, who was in charge of a monastery at the Tibet border in Ladakh - a place where even Indians are meant to secure a permit to visit - I asked him this very same question. He was stoically sure about being a monk, and had even undertaken a few short meditation retreats. But such monks are few and far between. Most novice monks by the time they are 18, decide to probably leave the monastery and go out into the world to have themselves a family with wife and kids. Once you leave a monastic life, you are not allowed back into the fraternity, and most monks are asked to think through their decision well - at least well enough for the age they are at. All monks are given some form of modern education in addition to practicing what the Buddha suggests, and hence choose to either become priests conducting ceremonies, or medicine men practicing traditional medicine, or even become teachers in different monasteries to carry forward the tradition.

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Old 8th September 2022, 15:22   #174
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

Back in Gangtok, we had to get our covid testing done again. The places were going to travel to are remote, with small communities of people living quite far away from hospitals and other civilised things the first world takes for granted. Hell, there wasn't a gas station across the whole of North Sikkim!

The lines were long, and like every other tourist we had to wait our turn. We finally got through and got our negative certificates! The ride was on!


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Back at the hotel, we had a day or two to rest. So I got this book to keep me company until we got our heads around the plan for the next few weeks. The dog wasn't very impressed with my choice however.

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That night we stepped out for dinner but were caught out by the change in weather. We spent time sitting with the cabbie until the rain weaned off. I think we were watching Marvel's avengers on his phone lol!

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Came across these beautiful firefighter motorcycles at the station. Just awesome.

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We spent time with Karma, of Ride Sikkim, to go over the plans together for North Sikkim. He drew out a little map and a plan for us, which we would then use for the next few weeks.

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Most times, the best plans are made on tissue paper.
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Old 30th September 2022, 09:45   #175
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Permits in hand, we were now officially on our way to North Sikkim.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_062257645.mp.jpg

Serpentine, the roads could snap back at you if you weren't mindful of the twists and turns. We were riding under rocks perched precariously over our heads.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-e6aa950d764e4af9aeeb43aca6bae11f1.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-img_7295.jpeg

We were riding through the evergreen forests that make up the lower ranges of the Sikkim Himalayas. Riding up from the capital city, this route was giving us a real life lesson on how the topography changes within a day and 200 kms of riding in the high mountains.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_064350582.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_065532220.mp.jpg

Right about here was our final gas station on this route and across a spread of many thousand square kilometres. The road here branches off into two distinct directions. The right upper road heads to Gurudongmar lake and the Yumthang Valley which is where we were headed.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_082813562.pano.jpg

Our first views of the snow capped ranges emerged from behind the cloud cover.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_084104891.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_084125327.portrait01.jpeg

I stopped here because the views seemed infinite. At the distance, I could spot this huge waterfall dumping glacial water into the river that was winding its way beneath us. The mountains were clothed in jungle, trees of which were feeding off the pristine wealth that nature provides in this part of the country.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_085058861.mp.jpg

My eyes refocused closer to this thatched hut sitting pretty amongst the landscape. Tiny, unassuming, this hut and its people probably didn't take much if any at all from what was on offer around us. I tried to imagine myself living here, day in and day out, farming from the land, piping water from a nearby stream. Driving a small 4x4 for an errand into the nearest village market. Riding a little CRF with my girl for company, exploring the little roads and finding a warm spot for a picnic. Would I be content? Would this make me happy? Or would I crave for the consumerist comforts of modern society, loud nightclubs, brash traffic, the latest phones, and friends who are always online?

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_090417461.portrait01.jpeg
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Old 19th November 2022, 10:03   #176
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

We were making our way up to Lachen. Lachen is the gateway to the famous Gurudongmar. Lachen roughly translates to Big Pass. We met a couple of motorcyclists enroute, one of whom proceeded to take a nap on the road ahead of us. The roads winded through some spectacular glacial fed waterfalls. The temperature was getting noticeably colder as we climbed higher and higher towards Lachen.

Once we reached Lachen, we parked our bikes and took a walk around town to get a feel for the place.

We needed the sleep tonight. Tomorrow we would be off to Gurudongmar.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_090508204.portrait.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_090535875.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_090812089.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_091927815.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_092035062.portrait.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_092059595.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_100216684.portrait.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_101539745.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_102103065.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_102116980.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_102130761.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_112608553.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_114216971.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_114701593.portrait.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_114901840.night.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_115826662.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_115950953.mp.jpg

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2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_121828550.portrait.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_122052909.portrait.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_122837206.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210420_123052761.mp01.jpeg
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Old 18th December 2022, 11:55   #177
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

Today we would ride to the beautiful Gurudongmar Lake. There are no roads to this famous high altitude lake that juxtaposes Tibet (China occupied) and India. I had done a little research on youtube and read varied accounts of how "difficult" it is.

It wasn't. Many on youtube tend to over hype and over imagine conditions of a route just to amplify their own video. Either that, or their skills are pretty rubbish.

The day was bright and sunny. An absolutely perfect day to be riding around the highest mountain chain in the world. I was also lucky to get some picturesque shots of the bike against the snow capped peaks. With nary a building around.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_024322126.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_024328665.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_024335242.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_025439280.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_030821238.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_030836508.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_031919488.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_031935986.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_034445587.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_034518742.portrait01.jpeg

As I rode up this trail, I realised that yes, this was easy on the modern motorcycles we have become used to today. And all our riding gear probably keeps us very comfortable. But how would have the merchants and the pilgrims of centuries past crossed this important trading route between India and Tibet? Most likely yaks to carry their tents, mules to carry their food supplies, and horses to carry themselves. This entire lot would have formed a formidable caravan - a line of masters, servants, and their animals set against a rugged landscape with only the mountains for company.

A journey that had taken us half a day, would have probably cost them a week or more by foot. What were their hardships?

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Old 3rd January 2023, 11:28   #178
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

Gurudongmar Lake is one of the highest lakes in the world and in India, at an elevation of 5,430 m (17,800 ft). It is located in the Great Himalayas in the Mangan District in Indian state of Sikkim, and considered sacred by Buddhists, Sikhs and Hindus. The lake is named after Guru Padmasambhava—also known as Guru Rinpoche—founder of Tibetan Buddhism, who visited in the 8th century.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_035305156.pano01.jpeg

The high altitude lake is located 190 kilometres (120 mi) away from Gangtok, the capital city of Sikkim, and about 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) south of the Tibetan (Chinese) border, in the district of North Sikkim. The lake can be reached by road from Lachen via Thangu Valley. The road from Thangu to Gurudongmar passes through rugged terrain with moraine, which has high alpine pastures covered with many rhododendron trees.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_035046780.mp01.jpeg

The lake, fed by glaciers, is located to the north of the Kanchendzonga range, in a high plateau area connected with the Tibetan Plateau. It provides one of the source streams which joins the Tso Lahmu and then form the source of the Teesta River. The lake remains completely frozen in the winter months, from November to Mid-May.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_040056810.pano.jpg

A legend related to the frozen condition of the lake is linked to the visit of Guru Padmasambhava to the lake, on his way back from Tibet. When he saw it, he felt that it was worthy of veneration, as it represented the divine location of Dorje Nyima or Chhoedten Nyima. Because the lake remained frozen most of the year with no possibility of providing for drinking water needs, the people of the area appealed to Padmasambhva to help them. The guru agreed to help and placed his hands on a small part of the lake area, which stopped freezing during winter, facilitating drinking water to the people. Since then, the lake has been considered sacred and devotees carry this sacred water in containers.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_053542253.mp01.jpeg

I walked down to the holy lake to pay my respects to the gods and spirits purported to reside here. Though I wonder, who wouldn't want to?!

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_050957659.mp01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_051017861.portrait01.jpeg

The weather, which started bright and sunny when we left, began to change precariously right in front of our eyes at Gurudongmar. You will in the above picture that a big large system of clouds began to make its way down into the glacier. We had a half day's journey to get back and tore ourselves away from this pristine land of the gods.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_061434751.pano.jpg

We hadn't eaten today, and halfway back I spotted an Army kitchen run for tourists. Shut however. Expectations that were created dreaming about this oasis of a restaurant made things even worse both in the head and in the stomach.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-img_746301.jpeg

And to top it off, snow began to fall.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_074056005.mp.jpg

Now we were tired, cold and hungry. An opportune time to think about how early travellers in this region might have spent their day journeying in these inhospitable regions of the high and mighty Himalayas.

A wake up call would usually be sounded by around 5 AM. Things would get busy, with the travellers boiling water for their first tea of the new day. This tea would have been boiled over a rudimentary fire built using scraps of yak dung. No trees grow here, collecting dry wood is out of the question. Yak dung burns slowly and surely with little smoke, perfect fuel. Whether the tea smells of yak dung, I haven't found out yet.

Then within the next half hour in line with the first break of light, the camp is swiftly taken down and put away on the backs of the yaks that make the caravan. The yaks were tied close to the tents for a few reasons. One, so they don't resign from this drudgery and run away. Two, wild wolves will not venture this close to camp for a meal of fresh yak. Three, the yaks might block some of the cold gusty wind that might enter the little tents.

And so the long amble begins. Some of these regions were known to have loose bandits around, so the merchants usually traveled in groups and all of them carried hand made guns and knives as a form of protection. By about 15.00 they begin to look for a place to camp. Flat ground is much preferred and the day's journey is usually timed from valley to valley across a high pass or two. The yaks are taken out for grazing, because all they eat is fresh grass, and so camp is set up where fresh grass is available. The next order with setting camp is to look for and collect ample amounts of yak dung to cook lunch and dinner.

A fire is lit, and everyone sits around singing songs to appease the gods. Chang, or fermented barley is brought out to warm mind and body for the dark cold night ahead. Who knows what the next day might bring to these weary travellers of yore?

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-img_7447101.jpeg
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Old 6th January 2023, 15:11   #179
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

The weather was closing in very quickly, and we had to make get out of the great outdoors. Luckily, we arrived up to a lone kitchen just when we were losing all hope.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_074119018.mp.jpg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_090430316.mp.jpg

The most important thing was, the kitchen had a fireplace right at the centre where we could dry ourselves off and bring some feeling back into our numb hands.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_090439947.night.jpg

After many cups of tea where we were scrutinised for being idiots to be running around with our motorcycles here, we said goodbye to the kind people who hosted us. I remember a conversation I had with them.

I asked, are you happy living here in such hostile conditions?

Yes, we're happy. Life is simple, we may not have much money. And things can certainly get difficult. There is no hospital close by, and there is no public transport. We may have to wait an entire day to get a hold of a jeep or some car which might take us out of these mountains. Even then, we will have to walk many miles, even at our age. But I am happy here.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_093547656.night01.jpeg

When I travel to such difficult places, this seems to be common thread amongst the people I meet. They are absolutely happy where they are in the mountains. Can the same thing be said for people living in the plains, amongst abject poverty, bad air, and rubbish water? I don't know.

We made haste back to the hotel and a little one from next door wastes no time to stake his claim to being a BHPian.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_112404581.portrait.jpg

I like that his left hand instinctively curled over the clutch. Three fingers at that.

Dinner was served, our first proper meal of the day. Egg curry, a mix of vegetables in masala, also called a sabzi, and yellow daal. This with Chapatis, which is an indian bread and plenty of rice.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210421_112527907.mp.jpg

The next morning was amazing. Snow tipped every mountain that overlooked us.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210422_022046789.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210422_024820863.portrait01.jpeg

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210422_024842919.portrait01.jpeg

The waterfalls hadn't frozen yet. We had plenty of time for that. This was early April and we were just setting foot into the summer season.

2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report-pxl_20210422_032241787.portrait01.jpeg
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Old 12th January 2023, 14:44   #180
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Re: 2 months across the Eastern Indo-Tibet Himalayas | A KTM 390 "Adventure" | 2021 Report

What an absolutely lovely trip. Took time to read thru fully. Fantastic, felt like was riding along thru the mountains and lakes.
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