[Technocrat]

I think you need to visit a non authorized competent mechanic for the Speedo Vibration, petrol leak & electrical upgrade issues, I dont think the service guys gave you a valid reason.

[DRIV3R]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Work NOT done:
1. VIbrations in speedo- Service guy says its normal for analog meters.

BS. Ask those morons to show another Pulsar with the same issue.

2. Petrol leak in side stand position- He adviced me not to put in side stand if bike is kept for more than 30 mins.

Again BS . My Pulsar has been parked on side stand for months and it doesnt leak fuel.

3. Upgrading electricals- Cannot be done, because it cannot be done.

Pure BS . It can be done, 100% . Even on a 150. Just a coil change is required and after that you can change to a 55W bulb.

[revtech]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Work NOT done:
1. VIbrations in speedo- Service guy says its normal for analog meters.
2. Petrol leak in side stand position- He adviced me not to put in side stand if bike is kept for more than 30 mins.
3. Upgrading electricals- Cannot be done, because it cannot be done.

the speedometer needle does fluctuate a little but 10-15 kmph fluctuation is quite a bit.

petrol leak may have something to do with the fuel overflow pipe.i remember having a similar issue and was rectified changing the pipe.

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by Technocrat

I think you need to visit a non authorized competent mechanic for the Speedo Vibration, petrol leak & electrical upgrade issues, I dont think the service guys gave you a valid reason.

True!

I visited this particular service station ONLY because they usually stock parts, and other smaller stations procure from them!

Originally Posted by DRIV3R

BS. Ask those morons to show another Pulsar with the same issue.
Again BS . My Pulsar has been parked on side stand for months and it doesnt leak fuel.
Pure BS . It can be done, 100% . Even on a 150. Just a coil change is required and after that you can change to a 55W bulb.

When i pointed out the same, they changed the line to- We are not permitted to do alterations.

Originally Posted by revtech

the speedometer needle does fluctuate a little but 10-15 kmph fluctuation is quite a bit.
petrol leak may have something to do with the fuel overflow pipe.i remember having a similar issue and was rectified changing the pipe.

Will check that out. However, bike is now in kerala and i will be going there only after a month!

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Kms done: 30303 kms.

Bike is not being used much (I'm still in chennai!). Went back home for an extended weekend, and all thoughts of a good ride were dismissed as the bike greeted me with a "hisss..." instead of "vrrooom". Battery was dead!

As it turned out, battery was ok and its the regulator that was at fault. Got the battery charged (for free at a friendly Amaron center), and regulator assembly replaced at Bajaj authorized showroom.

Cost-
Regulator assembly- 339.56/-
VAT- 42.45/-
Paid labour- 100/-
Service tax- 10/-

Total- Rs.493/-

Had to leave the same day as i got it back from service. Hopefully, this solves the problem and it wont be dead when i get back home after a month!

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

How much would the round headlamp of the classic pulsar cost? Is it a direct fit on the UG2?

I was thinking about replacing the headlamp (Present one has scratches from an accident. Pics on page 1). And this wicked idea keeps coming back to my head- to put the round headlamp as in the classic pulsar.

More so since i ran into the first pic from - From Mods to Stock :Pulsar 180 classic (Updates On Pg 1) - Page 6 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community while googling.

[Philistine]

I tried the round headlamp from the classic pulsar a while back on my P150. Was happy with the way it looked but extremely dissapointed with the light thrown from the unit. Late evenings with the headlight on - I was usually looking at birds perched up their trees, so after a few months swtiched back to the stock unit.
Yes, It is almost a straight fight though I remember some adjustment had to be made to the round unit to ensure that the light was being thrown at the right angle (carefully creating extra space for the until to be angled). Maybe someone else can explain this better.
It costed me about 500 odd bucks including labour.

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by Philistine

I tried the round headlamp from the classic pulsar a while back on my P150. Was happy with the way it looked but extremely dissapointed with the light thrown from the unit. Late evenings with the headlight on - I was usually looking at birds perched up their trees, so after a few months swtiched back to the stock unit.
Yes, It is almost a straight fight though I remember some adjustment had to be made to the round unit to ensure that the light was being thrown at the right angle (carefully creating extra space for the until to be angled). Maybe someone else can explain this better.
It costed me about 500 odd bucks including labour.

Thats a cause for worry!

Will have to check with the service guys once i get back home. For now- this picture is haunting my dreams.


( The above pic is not mine. Pic posted from- From Mods to Stock :Pulsar 180 classic (Updates On Pg 1) - Page 6 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community MODS: Please remove if its inappropriate to post from another forum!)

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Why does it have to be so hard to obey the law!

After a long wait (and more than 2 dozen visits to RTO and police stations), finally managed to get over with the NOC headache. Original NOC issued by RTO, Trivandrum has been cancelled, and the bike is now back with kerala registration itself. (Yet to get the papers via mail. Came to know that RTO provided copies of the document, while the original document itself will be mailed).

IMO, it was easier to deal with the paperwork in chennai than trivandrum, even with the language barrier!

I'll also be back in kerala by July 2nd week. So, hopefully- more rides to come! Looking forward to that headlamp conversion as well!

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Its been over 5 years, and the bike still manages to delight! I actually wanted to upgrade to the CBR250R, but the little pulsar is asking me a 'why upgrade' question every single time i ride it.

Engine still feels real nice and peppy for city use, and its fast progress till 90 kmph! After that, it feels strained and this makes me wonder why Bajaj didnt use a taller ratio for 5th gear!

Speedometer assembly has got stuck at 32700 and should be repaired during next service. I guess it was already showing signs by vibrating heavily when the speed climbs, but the service guys couldnt figure out why!

Front tires are now 5 years and around 35000 kms old, and has some amount of thread life left. Will it be a good idea to replace them?

[praful]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Will it be a good idea to replace them?

Definitely its a good idea to change them! 5 years is the ideal time to have them changed!

For taller gearing you could try changing the sprockets, do you know what is the current Front/Rear sprocket teeth count?

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by praful

Definitely its a good idea to change them! 5 years is the ideal time to have them changed!

For taller gearing you could try changing the sprockets, do you know what is the current Front/Rear sprocket teeth count?

Need to do further research on the sprockets, however i am changing the tyres. Front tyre definitly needs to be changed and the options seem to be-

1. MRF Zapper FS 2.75 - 17 tubed (the one that came with the bike).

2. MRF Zapper FS TL 90/90 - 17. (the one that comes with P220 DTSi).

Could also do a wild thing by going for R15 spec tyres (Mechanic seems to be highly against this, as he says lower profile is not suited for the bike as it weighs more!). Anyways, in that case, the tyres would need to be changed to-

Front- MRF Zapper FY TL 90/80 - 17.
Tyres- MRF Zapper S TL 100/80 - 17.

Although this would lower the bike (a bit), i think this setup would offer substantially more grip. Any problems in going for this setup? (Currently, it rides on MRF Meteor 100/90 - 17 at the rear, which is nothing to write about.

[praful]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Need to do further research on the sprockets, however i am changing the tyres. Front tyre definitly needs to be changed and the options seem to be-

1. MRF Zapper FS 2.75 - 17 tubed (the one that came with the bike).

2. MRF Zapper FS TL 90/90 - 17. (the one that comes with P220 DTSi).

The Zapper FS 90/90 is a decent tyre. You can definitely go for it, I am not sure, but it might bring down flickability by a bit given that it will form a slightly different profile.

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Could also do a wild thing by going for R15 spec tyres (Mechanic seems to be highly against this, as he says lower profile is not suited for the bike as it weighs more!). Anyways, in that case, the tyres would need to be changed to-

Front- MRF Zapper FY TL 90/80 - 17.
Tyres- MRF Zapper S TL 100/80 - 17.

Although this would lower the bike (a bit), i think this setup would offer substantially more grip. Any problems in going for this setup? (Currently, it rides on MRF Meteor 100/90 - 17 at the rear, which is nothing to write about.

The R15 front tyre is pretty good, again it will all depend on the final profile the tyre forms. On the 220, the R15 front tyre is pretty good, but the rim width for your alloy is different to the profile formed will be different.

Also the Zapper FY is 80/90!

See if you can source the Zapper Vyde, brilliant tyre. But very soft compound, lasted only 10K kms on my 220. Excellent cornering grip too, else you can see if you can get the Zapper C in a size thats around what you need!

[para_7k]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Need to do further research on the sprockets, however i am changing the tyres. Front tyre definitly needs to be changed and the options seem to be-

1. MRF Zapper FS 2.75 - 17 tubed (the one that came with the bike).

2. MRF Zapper FS TL 90/90 - 17. (the one that comes with P220 DTSi).

Could also do a wild thing by going for R15 spec tyres (Mechanic seems to be highly against this, as he says lower profile is not suited for the bike as it weighs more!). Anyways, in that case, the tyres would need to be changed to-

Front- MRF Zapper FY TL 90/80 - 17.
Tyres- MRF Zapper S TL 100/80 - 17.

Although this would lower the bike (a bit), i think this setup would offer substantially more grip. Any problems in going for this setup? (Currently, it rides on MRF Meteor 100/90 - 17 at the rear, which is nothing to write about.

Don't go for 100/80 x 17 in the rear. Lesser sidewall height means hamper in ride quality.

I suggest the following:

Front:

1. MRF Zapper - 70/100 x 17 Tubeless (equal to 2.75x17) comes in CB twister

2. MRF Zapper FY - 80/90 x 17 - Tubeless (not 90/80) - from R15

3. MRF Zapper - 90/90 x 17 - Tubeless - from the new 180 and 220

Rear:

1. MRF Zapper - 100/90 x 17 Tubless

2. MRF Zapper - 110/80 x 17 Tubeless - This is the size of RTR 180. This will be my pick.

3. MRF Zapper Vyde - 120/80 x 17 - Tyre&Tube - You might have to get rid of the chain cover.

My tyres are also due for a change. Please keep your thread updated.

Also, can you point me where I can get Motul 15W50 in Chennai.

[bullboy]

I'm using Zapper 90/90-17 on front and R15 rear tyre for back for my 180,both tubed as the air was leaking in tubless mode.Ride has become harsh since then due to lower profile, but there is no significant gain with this set up for me as now a days i hardly do a high speed cornering (matured ) .Also bottom will scrap against bumps with pillion. R15 tyre is costlier and has a reduced life due to softer compund.