DIY Puncture repair
So finally the day had come when I had to face the inevitable puncture, while I was going for a badminton session. In childhood we used to go to cycle shop and see punctures being fixed in minutes and I too got adept at the steps involved there. But a motorcycle tube is a different beast. Thus I sat on the petrol tank - almost, and rode the bike back home, rims/tubes be damned, I am not going to push this stuff around for 4 kms !!
So I decided to try my hand at repairing it. Though as after thought, the process is itself an easy once but I had too many apprehensions on whether I had all the tools - point to note : buy a multi-tool set with ratchet setup.
So here it goes:
Removing the wheel :
For me the easiest part was this. Just go into the right side and remove the stopper pin (a plier to press the wide ends and a thin screw to pull it from the loop), and the castle nut with a 24 mm spanner and WD40 in ample amount and fix a screw driver on the left side of the long axle to keep it from spinning.
Tools needed:
1. Plier and thin screw driver to pull the stopper pin
2. 24 mm open/ring/socket spanner to remove castle nut
3. screw driver to hold the long axle in place when removing the castle nut
As soon as you remove the chain adjuster, spacer, and some sort of washer (I have to figure this one out

) fell out of place. Collected the spacer and the washer and long axle in my toolbox.
Removing the wheel was not tough and I did it solo. Just jerk around with the wheel and when it falls to the ground tilt the bike still on main stand and maneuver it from the back mud guard. Some pushing and shoving, the rear wheel came out, and I though the tough part is over
Fixing the tube
Fixing the tube you need all the tools here:
1. 2 tire irons, bigger the better, I have 18 inches irons.
2. puncture motorcycle patches, self vulcanizing tube (Omni puncture kit)
3. tire inflator and water/soap solution.
4. oil pastel to mark the puncture spot
5. sandpaper to roughen the tube surface
Getting the tube out was a pain as I was trying to muscle it through, however that rarely works in any situation. So upon youtubing a gentleman's great advice to push the tyre into centerline on the opposite end of the tyre made the job much easy. And the tube was out in no time.
Inflated the tyre, dipped in a bucket of water and found 3 punctures. With oil pastels marked them and applied the vulcanizing solvent and let it dry out. Took out the patches from the kit and fixed them. Currently the tube is under test. Tried the bubble test and no bubbles are coming out as of now. Tomorrow will fix the wheel and go for a small ride.
Root cause analysis
If there is a puncture, you must find the cause, since I couldn't see any nails or pins instead tears I ran my hand gingerly inside the tyre and checked the rim. From one side the rim spoke cover on top of the rim (like how the tubeless conversion paste is applied) was out of place. So moved that back in line.
Another was inside the tyre some sharp edge was created, managed to sandpaper it down till smooth.
Though the process is a trivial in technical difficulty, however I would prefer not to take the hassle to do this activity on the road side at 45 degrees or at the low oxygen environs of the high himalayas. Always prefer a tubeless setup for ease of use.
... To be continued after the wheel is fixed.