[advstreak]

After posting similar information across various WhatsApp groups, I have finally decided to distill my experience in this post to help others choose the correct type of aux lights.

Now, let's start with why stock headlights generally do not work that well.

AIS 10 Part 1 governs the headlight performance requirements, which can be downloaded from here: https://www.araiindia.com/downloads

Page 21 gives the measurement points for the lux values, which need to be as per page 12.





Zone III, which is above the cut-off line, should have less than 0.7 lux while point B 50R, which will point towards the oncoming traffic, should be less than 0.4 lux.

For reference, 0.4 lux is a tad brighter than a full moon on a clear night.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux#cite_note-6

There is also a minimum brightness requirement for points 75L and 50L to be 6 lux.

This requirement ensures that there is some minimum brightness of the lamp, but still, it will be restricted by the less than 20 lux requirement in Zone I.

Now, coming to mods:

H4 Halogen Headlight

One of the defining features of the H4 Standard bulb is the shield. This shield helps in maintaining the cut-off line in the low beam. Also, the headlight reflector is designed to use the shield to maintain the beam pattern.



I did experiment a lot with different types of LED bulbs on the Hornet 160.

Bulbs that do not have a proper shield design lead to glare and no cut-off beam pattern.



If one wants to replace the H4 Halogen bulb with an LED bulb, then get one that has a shield design.

Novsight N35 is one such bulb.



I had it installed on my KTM ADV 250.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5463450 (Ownership Review | KTM Adventure 250)

Here is the stock headlight beam pattern.



And here is the N35 beam pattern.



As one can see, there is still a decent amount of cut-off in the beam pattern.

I then installed it on my friend's Himalayan 411, which can be seen here:
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5810670 (The 1st-gen Royal Enfield Himalayan thread!)


Now, if one does not like the 6000K temperature, then some options have the shield available in 4300K as well as tricolor options.

https://autobahntechnologies.com/aut...a_bulb-size=h4

https://autobahntechnologies.com/aut...a_bulb-size=h4

If one cares about the proper cut-off pattern, then one can use a mini projector bulb.



I have one installed currently in my ADV 250 now:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5460751 (Ownership Review | KTM Adventure 250)

Here is the low beam pattern of the mini projector H4 Bulb



Here is the high beam pattern



One of the issues with the system is that it used the headlight reflector for the high beam. Hence, in the above image, you can see the high beam points towards the sky as I have adjusted so that the low beam cut-off is proper.

Now, the evolution of this design is to integrate the high beam in the projector setup.





Notice the two different lens shapes.

This is the low beam pattern.



Here is the high beam pattern



The high beam is a circular spot in perfect alignment with the low beam cut-off line. This makes it a good option for people looking to replace Halogen with H4 LED. But the issue with this is that it is designed for Right-hand driving, and hence, the cut-off line is higher on the right-hand side half of the beam pattern.


Round Headlight Replacement

In case one has a 7-inch round headlight unit, there are full replacement headlight units available from various brands.

The better ones out there are the Vaishnu headlights.

https://vaishnu.com/headlights-for-b...ltXrSMJsYNOFre



They seem to be available for almost every round headlight, be it 7-inch or other size. The best part I like about them is that they are tri-color with the same cut-off level. One downside could be that the spread is not that wide and maybe does not light up corners in fixed-headlight bikes in ghat sections.

There are others like HJG and Monster Vision, but they only seem to have 6000K white lights.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJFi0Dx_8u0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RMGGOEQlPU

There are more options available here:
https://hjgstore.com/collections/hjg...ssembly-7-inch

One tip will be to avoid the half-reflector-based design and get the projector one ( more on the distinction later in the post)

Here is the beam pattern of the half-reflector-based design.

https://hjgstore.com/products/hjg-7-...e-without-ring





As you can see, the cut-off is not that sharp, while the spread is also limited.

The cut-off and spread are much better in a projector-based setup like this.

https://hjgstore.com/products/hjg-7-...eep-thar-gypsy





What one must truly avoid is lights with only reflectors without any lenses unless one wants to use them as floodlights or for blinding oncoming traffic.

https://hjgstore.com/products/hjg-7-...vidson-diamond






AUX LIGHTS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfRWoWJhcfM

The above diode dynamics video explains all different LED optics in detail. This is a must to understand one's use case and decide which type of optics one must choose.

Now, based on my experiments and research with the lights as mentioned in these posts:

(https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5756748 (Ownership Review | KTM Adventure 250)
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5801987 (Ownership Review | KTM Adventure 250))

the generic requirements for road use are:

• Sharp cut-off line in low beam

• Wide spread to cover corners in ghats

• Yellow and White colors at the same level

• Good high beam performance

Now, there are very few lights that can meet all of these requirements, especially in the budget segment.

Regarding the yellow and white color requirement, I have observed that I feel that the yellow color has enhanced contrast. This leads to better edge detection and one's understanding of the terrain. The yellow lights also scatter less in rain, offering better visibility. Having both the colors at the same level ensures that one will have to only set up the aux lights and use colors as per the situation.

Let's tackle the high beam performance later and concentrate on the other parameters.

HJG 124 and 125 seem to have good low beam patterns.

Here is 124's low beam and high pattern

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...67387728i2XuGI

https://youtu.be/xeX92LhgV1M?t=164

The above video shows the beam pattern and power consumption for the HJG 125 model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uUbLU6CLwk

This video shows the direct comparison between the 124 and 125 models.

Here are the screenshots of the low beam for easier comparison.

125 low beam



124 low beam



As one can see, 124 seems to have a smoother tapering of lux at the sides.
The practical difference can be seen at the end of the video, which does not seem to be that much. The high beam performance does not seem to that much and hence I have not included it.

Now, the evolution of this concept is to turn on both the yellow and white lights to get a warm light color. This is what HJG-17 and Gorilla do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KjDLVMTzWY&t=613s

https://youtu.be/ZFqSw-8YLtM?t=506

The main difference is that the gorilla consumes 20 watts per light in high beam mode, which can lead to it having a better head beam performance.

Here are the beam pattern screenshots of the gorilla light for easier reference.





Now, there are 3-inch projector setups in tri-color like AES double laser, which can give decent high beam performance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-xYwizhUas

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cj3-9T-gYc

Most of the cheaper lights seem to have limited high-beam power consumption to 20 watts max. Although the actual LUX values will depend upon optics and power efficiency, there is one model that will perform good is the HJG kZ-30.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwHnAHQgtvY

I have them installed on my bike, and they can be checked out here:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5460751 (Ownership Review | KTM Adventure 250)

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5756748 (Ownership Review | KTM Adventure 250)

In case one needs high beam performance, then something like aozoom th03 or GNPE GW711 are great options, but they come with single color LEDs only.

https://carconceptsshop.com/products...ghts-y30-2-64w

https://carconceptsshop.com/products...ght-gw711-160w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2HW4eNPrkI

Here are the low beam and high beam patterns.

[advstreak]

Now, in case one does not care about cut-off, then TIR optics can be an option.
There are some models by HJG, and almost all models by Maddog use this.

Here is the HJG 7 LED light

https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...1a007121rw7MUy



As seen, these lights have no cut-off, and one wastes half of the energy lightning up the sky/tree line, blinding others or blinding oneself due to high lux in the nearby area.

Here is the video of the Maddog Alpha lights installed on a KTM ADV 390

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkKWISeBdiA

Using reference shots from the above video.



Here is the stock KTM ADV 390 headlight.



And here, the Maddog Alpha light only. One can notice how the nearby areas marked in red are lit up more. This will lead to an increase in eye fatigue.
Ideally, there should be more lux in the area marked in green. But if one adjusts the lights to move the focus that way, one wastes light lightning up the blue marked area.

Maddog does market the alpha as 70% spot and 30% flood. Recently, they have launched a new model called Rage, which is 90% spot and 10% flood.

Here is a screenshot of a video in the KTM ADV WhatsApp group with the Rage installed.





The stock KTM headlight high beam and a low beam.



And here with the Maddog rage. As one can see, the increased brightness near the ride can cause fatigue. The spot does appear to be much more focused.

I hope one day Maddog implements fresnel lenses so that we can have good cut-off high optical effeicncey aux light options.


P.S.: One can't compare the brightness of the lights from the images and video as they are taken in different exposure and ISO settings. Only beam pattern information can be taken out from the video and images.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[sonmi-451]

Can’t thank you enough for this post. This trove of knowledge will help hundreds if not thousands in the future, save them time and money.

[ExOblivione]

Originally Posted by advstreak

And here, the Maddog Alpha light only. One can notice how the nearby areas marked in red are lit up more. This will lead to an increase in eye fatigue.
Ideally, there should be more lux in the area marked in green. But if one adjusts the lights to move the focus that way, one wastes light lightning up the blue marked area.

Maddog does market the alpha as 70% spot and 30% flood. Recently, they have launched a new model called Rage, which is 90% spot and 10% flood.

I have been running the Maddog Alpha AUX lights for over 1 year now, and have ridden 21k in that time, including quite a bit of night time riding, in myriad conditions, which include highways, mountain roads and through forests, in clear, rainy or heavy fog weather.

My personal experience with them, that while they are bright, I am not sure on what basis they are being advertised as 30% spot. They are purely flood lights. I had looked closely at them when before I mounted them, and I couldn't see any physical difference in the makeup of the light that would suggest differential light spread pattern. All LEDs, their lenses and the reflective housing look exactly the same for all 6 lights that make up each pod, at least to the naked eye. If I am wrong, I would love to know.

Angling them into a useful position has the light going very high and wide. The tops of trees are lit up! I don't mind the wide part, in fact I like that aspect a lot. One of the biggest concerns with night riding is any animal or someone on the shoulder deciding to cross or merge (or 2-wheeler divider jumping). It's very useful in that situation. Being able to see both sides clearly makes it much safer.

I have put the relay trigger wire to my high beam connection, so I can quickly hit it in case of an oncoming vehicle, so as not to blind them.

I do wish for better spot performance, as the visibility drop off with distance is pretty substantial in front of you. The brightness makes up for much of it, so I am ok with it for the time being.

[advstreak]

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

I am not sure on what basis they are being advertised as 30% spot. They are purely flood lights.

They do market it as 70% spotlights on their page.

https://www.maddog.co.in/product_details/Alpha

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

I had looked closely at them when before I mounted them, and I couldn't see any physical difference in the makeup of the light that would suggest a differential light spread pattern. All LEDs, their lenses and the reflective housing look exactly the same for all 6 lights that make up each pod, at least to the naked eye. If I am wrong, I would love to know.

So, the distribution is controlled by the TIR lens design. If you run your fingers over the lights, you will see the center LED have more of a bulge.



The bulge should be here unless I am getting confused with other lights.

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

I don't mind the wide part, in fact I like that aspect a lot. One of the biggest concerns with night riding is any animal or someone on the shoulder deciding to cross or merge (or 2-wheeler divider jumping). It's very useful in that situation. Being able to see both sides clearly makes it much safer.

Judging from whatever screenshots in the posts above, do you feel a wider beam spread by the projector aux lights will do a better job for this use case?

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

I do wish for better spot performance, as the visibility drop off with distance is pretty substantial in front of you.

Do check out the rage, kz-30 and Aozoom th-03/GNPE-711 and see if they can meet the requirements.

[ExOblivione]

Originally Posted by advstreak

They do market it as 70% spotlights on their page.

Sorry, I got the numbers turned around. Though the "70% spot" claim is even more laughable. In my own experience there seems to be no discernible spot performance. There seems to be practically no real focused bright spot (that isn't simply caused by light falling closer). The light just floods the whole field of view. From the road to the literal tops of trees, the sides and the road. It all seems about evenly lit.

Originally Posted by advstreak

So, the distribution is controlled by the TIR lens design. If you run your fingers over the lights, you will see the center LED have more of a bulge.

...

The bulge should be here unless I am getting confused with other lights.

I presume you mean the LEDs and lenses behind the plastic screen of the housing, for which I would have to unmount and take apart the pods. That I didn't do. I tried taking a look at it from different angles today, panning my head slowly, to see if I see any distortion that would signal such difference. I couldn't. Not that it means there isn't one. Either I don't know what to look for, or the difference isn't visible with the naked eye at such close ranges.

Originally Posted by advstreak

Judging from whatever screenshots in the posts above, do you feel a wider beam spread by the projector aux lights will do a better job for this use case?

Do check out the rage, kz-30 and Aozoom th-03/GNPE-711 and see if they can meet the requirements.

Different lights may be better to worse for the use case. It's hard to judge lights without actually living with them, as photos and videos don't accurately capture real world performance (very few even lock exposure, ISO etc. for a closer comparison).

I guess that's why quite a few people run two sets of lights, one for focused spot performance, and one for brightness and spread. Not something I am willing to do, for multiple reasons (cops, space etc.)

Currently, I am ok with the Alphas. The only real problem I face with them is when there is an oncoming car, on a narrow road (mountains, forest, back roads), with their high beam on, and I turn off mine, but they don't. That causes the road ahead to completely disappear for me. If there was a stronger spot performance, that wouldn't happen.

[advstreak]

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

Though the "70% spot" claim is even more laughable.
The light just floods the whole field of view. From the road to the literal tops of trees, the sides and the road.

And that is the main problem with using these lights for on-road use. There is a lot of power being wasted on lighting up trees etc. which can be focussed better on the road.

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

Either I don't know what to look for, or the difference isn't visible with the naked eye at such close ranges.

Try to run your finger over the lens surface and you will feel a little oval surface around the center. I am trying to arrange for a picture to explain better.

In case you are interested in how a TIR fresnel lens system is designed, here is a good paper for it.

https://www.researchgate.net/publica...Fresnel_Lenses

Originally Posted by ExOblivione

The only real problem I face with them is when there is an oncoming car, on a narrow road (mountains, forest, back roads), with their high beam on, and I turn off mine, but they don't. That causes the road ahead to completely disappear for me. If there was a stronger spot performance, that wouldn't happen.

So if you had an aux light that has a good cut-off low beam pattern, then you wouldn't need to turn it off. Such aux light will not be blinding to the oncoming traffic as well due to the proper cut-off beam while still maintaining enough visibility for you.

[PatienceWins]

Thank you for the very informative thread.

I have been using Maddog ScoutX (Spot 50% and Flood 50% (Combo beam)) and agree with the observation regarding Spot beam. For me, it is purely a flood light and agree that the lighting beyond nearby area is compromised. If I adjust the position of the light vertically to have better light farther, the lighting illuminates the top of tree.

Overall, it is value for money with the sturdy construction. But I wish it is an ideal combination of spot and flood, as advertised.