[akshay4587]

Originally Posted by rahulsingh007

Hi ,
It will be great if you can tell me the Apache RTR's standard carb setting ,that is, how many anti-clockwise rotations from fully closed position in factory setting.

I have screwed my carb setting.
Please Help!

Rahul,its not that easy to tune a CV carb like VM24 of a bullet.
In case you have not done this before i would recommend that you get it done by someone who knows how to tune it.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by revtech

yeah i heard Valvoline has that grade but couldnt manage to find it anywhere in south bombay.
didnt know MAK had 20W50,havent heard of Veedol.


rev

If you can't find the oil you want in shops, then just contact the company or its marketing officer or regional office or whatever. Get their email/ph nos from the company's website. They should tell you the nearest place to get it. Some have even offered me home delivery.

Mak definitey has 20W50 for bikes. Just saw several bottles at an oil dealer recently. However, it seems Mak isn't popular with people who want more performance. So I'd suggest you try Valvoline. No personal experience with either of them though.

Originally Posted by amohit

I have P150 and the service book also recommends 20W40.

And by the way, more than personal choice its ignorance.
Could you please suggest which other oil of 20W40 grade will give better & smoother performance?

Regards,

Personally, I have just switched to Gulf Pride 4T Plus 10W30 for my CBZ-X from the Idemitsu HH oil. The bike feels smoother and more responsive. Heats up a bit lesser too. It comes in 20W40 grade too, and its performance should be similar. It is an extended drain period oil, so you can use it longer too.

There are many other good brands too which I have heard perform very well (no personal experience though) - Elf, Veedol, Motul, etc. You also get Shell, Cheveron, PSU Co. oils, etc., etc. Haven't heard from anyone how these perform. See what suits you and your bike best. Just make sure you are buying a bike specific oil.

[rider60]

@raccoon better yet man make your nearest castrol dealer get you the castrol 4T active XTRA 20W50 grade oil the BEST one at the price!!!

and i recommend you try it out its very good and BanG for Buck deal. last week i checked it and the price was 210bucks a liter!!!

[Raccoon]

^^^Dude, I don't have any vehicle that requires 20W50. I guess only the >150 cc Pulsies require this "paste"...LOL. Also, I'm really not too keen on Castrol when other options are available. Anyway, the query was by Revtech, so he gotta decide.

[hyper123]

Originally Posted by yatinchoubal

Hyper 123, if possible could you please post DIY oil change.. ? Can you do that? would be lot of help.

Things you need:

1. Socket wrench or torque wrench to un-screw the drain bolt.
2. Cloth rags
3. Fresh engine oil as recommended by the manufacturer.
4. A tray big enough to hold about 1.5 ltrs of oil and a funnel would be helpful.

Steps:

1. Start the bike and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Then, shut it off. Prop the bike up on the main stand.
2. Clean the area around the dipstick and un-screw it.
3. Locate the drain bolt (its located at the bottom most part of the crankcase. LHS in Pulsars) and place the tray directly under it.
4. Un-screw the bolt with the correct socket wrench. Careful with the last few turns as oil might gush out.
5. Let it drain for a couple of mins. Tilt the bike to remove the remaining drops of oil.
6. Check the drain bolt for any damages and screw it back in. Make sure you do it carefully and do not wrong-thread it!! Do not over-tighten. Clean the area around the bolt with rags.
7. Now pour in the recommended quantity of fresh oil and screw the dipstick back.

That's it! Check the oil level after you take the bike for a ride next time and also check for oil leaks.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by hyper123

Let it drain for a couple of mins. Tilt the bike to remove the remaining drops of oil.

I hope all you DIY-ers are not disposing of the used oil in the nearest municipal drain, for the sake of our environment. Please take it to your nearest garage, and they'll be happy to keep your oil for you - it's usually bought by oil recyclers from them in bulk for about Rs.20 per litre, and processed to produce low-grade industrial lubricants.

[JayPrashanth]

OT

I managed to buy 4 litres of Veedol super swift for 250 rupees per liter from the official Veedol distributor here in Bangalore. Original cost: Rs305. Dealer discount: Rs 35. Discount with the coupon inside the can's cap. Rs 20. So 250 was the effective price. Also, the lube in question is a semi-synthetic blend with 10w40 rating. I bought this after many bulleteers recommended this. Now, I will be changing oil tomorrow. So far, it looks like good value for money.

Beware of giving your used oil to local garages. Some garages hand it over to recyclers who decolorize/adulterate it and sell it to service centers who use it in customers' vehicles as new oil. This, as per a famous mechanic is a major scam happening in Bangalore.

[hyper123]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

I hope all you DIY-ers are not disposing of the used oil in the nearest municipal drain, for the sake of our environment. Please take it to your nearest garage, and they'll be happy to keep your oil for you - it's usually bought by oil recyclers from them in bulk for about Rs.20 per litre, and processed to produce low-grade industrial lubricants.

I missed that point! Anyway, apart from garages, I have seen a couple of automobile spare shops who will take in the used oil.

@ JayPrashanth: Is the Veedol dealer located near Urvashi theatre? If yes, directions please.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by JayPrashanth

OT
Beware of giving your used oil to local garages. Some garages hand it over to recyclers who decolorize/adulterate it and sell it to service centers who use it in customers' vehicles as new oil. This, as per a famous mechanic is a major scam happening in Bangalore.

Well, that may be true, but thats no excuse for disposing the oil in a wrong way. I'd say adulteration is a much lesser evil then getting that poison in the environment.

Also, I dont think service centers need to buy any old oil from anyone! I'm pretty sure they get more than enough from the vehicles they service, lol!

[JayPrashanth]

Hyper123,

This is the address of the shop.

Aroor Udyog Pvt limited
#27, 8th cross, Siddhiah road

Shop is open only between 730am and 230pm.

Take a left opposite Urvashi theatre towards double road->Siddhiah road

Go down the road and take another left at 8th cross.

[cnaganathan]

I had a KB100 RTZ and then a Bajaj 4S some 9 years back - stopped riding a bike due to a back problem.

Those days I had the time and used to maintain my bike myself - though I have forgotten the details of Carb tuning, here are some tips for maintaining the chain.

I used to remove the chain - you can use a circlip plier to remove the clip on the removable link and then knock it out. Rinse the chain by placing it in a shallow tray and immersing it in white spirit or petrol. if the chain is dry or the lube on the chain is caked, allow it to soak for at least 5 -10 mins. swirl the chain around inside the liquid to remove all dirt and grit sticking to it. You could also use a old tooth brush to gently remove any adamant buildup. Remove the chain and let it drip dry.

Once all the solvent / petrol has evaporated from the chain, it is ready for lubrication. Clean the tray used earlier and fill it with SAE 90 or 120 gear oil - you could use old oil as long as it is dirt free. But it is better to use fresh oil if you want your chain to work longer. Soak the chain in the oil for 10 minutes to ensure adequate infusion. Remove the chain and hang it someplace for 10 minutes to allow excess oil to drip. Clean the sprockets using the tooth brush and remove all dirt and grime. Put the Chain back and lock using the locking pin.

You will notice that after the cleaning the chain has slackened a bit. This is normal. Refer to your bike's manual and adjust the tension on the chain.

I used to do this almost every 1500 kms and never had a problem with my chain drive.

I read some of your recommendations on the engine oil grades. Please note that your location's climate has a bearing on the grade of oil to be chosen. A 10 W20 oil is more suitable for cold regions while a 20W40 or a 30W50 lets your bike perform better in hotter climes.

[JithinR]

This seems to be the most appropriate thread for my query:

I am trying to service the carburettor on my Apache RTR 200. Took the bike out after a long hibernation and found that with new fuel, engine oil and recharged battery the bike does crank.

Though the moment I twist the throttle it dies. YouTube tells me its a clogged pilot jet. So I decide to set aside the weekend to learn how to service a carb and get the bike running properly again.

Though I have managed to get the carb off the bike, there are two stubborn screws on the carb that I can't get out. One on the choke lever and another on the float bowl. I actually think i stripped out the one on the bowl a bit.

Do members here have any tips on how to get them removed?