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Old 12th September 2008, 15:39   #31
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wow i fail to understand how you guys can recommend a rented bullet (the condition won't be known to a guy who doesn't know bikes thoroughly). what happens if there is a breakdown? i don't think the TS will be able to do his own wrenching - from what i see he is not able to do that. and don't tell me the bullet is so reliable that a second hand bike from karol bagh of all the places won't break down!
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Old 12th September 2008, 16:43   #32
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oh and i realized i've been confusing you but not suggesting a bike

So while the original posts still stand, should you buy, and are not particularly in the mood for a Karizma, a P200 will do just fine. Pack a couple of rear brake pads and you're set.

While everyone loves their machines, the fact is that P200's been the silent rockstar of the ladakh circuit, with decent mileages (no carrying crap petrol), superb reliability and solid torque for the climbs (power to weight ratio!!!).

On a recent comets' ride - it reached marsimik la ahead of the other comets
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Old 15th September 2008, 13:17   #33
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Feel like i am geting maried!!!!

OK maybe not exactly, but boy since the moment i decided that KARIZMA is the one, i am getting goose bumps all over!! (partly because of that leh trip crystalising on the horizon)

ok comming to the point, any comments on the BEST DEALER IN MUMBAI!, i dont even know if this concept exists, given the world class reliability of HONDA, probably there is nothing much left to the dealer. But just coudnt resist getting a second opinion.

i have decided a silver color zma, please let me know what all things that i should give great attention to, and the vunerable places where the dealer can cut me short etc , basically the best place in mumbai, where my buying experience would math my future riding experince.....(or something like that).

Any Help is Great Help!!!

Note from TBHP Mods: Lets continue the story in this thread and start a "New Thread" for the actual trip.

Last edited by Jaggu : 15th September 2008 at 15:07.
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Old 16th September 2008, 16:18   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khaleelda1 View Post
OK maybe not exactly, but boy since the moment i decided that KARIZMA is the one, i am getting goose bumps all over!! (partly because of that leh trip crystalising on the horizon)
.
If you're buying the Motorcycle mainly for the Ladak trip then u should go for the 200.. Kari dosent pull properly in higher altitude, it really struggles where as the pulsars rock. Believe me, I took my kari to Ladak last year!!
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Old 16th September 2008, 17:26   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solly View Post
If you're buying the Motorcycle mainly for the Ladak trip then u should go for the 200.. Kari dosent pull properly in higher altitude, it really struggles where as the pulsars rock. Believe me, I took my kari to Ladak last year!!
I have read about this issue in some other forum as well. What's the reason for this?
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Old 16th September 2008, 18:56   #36
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i'm guessing it runs too lean.
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Old 16th September 2008, 19:15   #37
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Guys its after a lot of (traumatic)struggle i have decided zma, please don put new ideas in my head....i'll go bonkers'.

if someone has some idea about a reliable dealer in mumbai, it will be really really helpfull!!!

thanks again!
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Old 17th September 2008, 00:36   #38
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darn i meant rich not lean!
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Old 17th September 2008, 01:12   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
I have read about this issue in some other forum as well. What's the reason for this?
All you need is to remove that snorkel at that altitude or better still get a free flow filter like a K&N or a UNI and voila zma will rock
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Old 17th September 2008, 15:28   #40
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All you need is to remove that snorkel at that altitude or better still get a free flow filter like a K&N or a UNI and voila zma will rock
What snorkel are you talking about?? Isn't the zma leanly tuned, won't the extra air from the K&N actually ruin the performance if u don't upjet??
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Old 17th September 2008, 16:30   #41
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For a good terrain kinda ride, I'd suggest a light and reliable bike. With good wide-spread torque and also good fuel efficiency.
Thats when I'm reminded of the Fiero.
We have a plenty of Raid-de-Himalaya examples from our works and they are just flawless. About 3 yrs ago a few Fieros were sent to the Himalays to accomplish a Limca Record Run and it just did that perfectly.
Its quite an easy task to prepare one and its the cheapest bike to give the best fun. I have done my share of riding in terrain on Fieros and can vouch for it. Its light, flickable and so much forgiving. Just what you need!
You can get a 2002-2003 example for around 20k and you'll need to spend a few bucks to prepare it to full form and that it.
make sure you run slightly higher compression in the cylinder to get good performance at higher altitutes. The pace of the fieros are better than the bigger bikes in Raid Rallies mostly.
You dont need a swing arm change or anything. Stability and all is just a suspension tune away. The stock susp is really soft. Harden it and you have one of the best handlers.
Things to prepare it to full Rally trim,
Change rear rim to 18 or 16" Button tyres. Enduro tyres are best. use a tyre catcher to let the tyre remain in the rin in the event of a flat.
use a 2.75 * 18 enduro or semi dirt tyre.
Change front mud guard to a high stance dirt fender
Stiffen the front fork tubes by adding a 1 inch spacer
Rear use an endurance(not pulsars)/Victor GLX gas shox
Use a wider Custom - Rally handle bar

Engine,
Up the engine compression by atleast 20psi
Make sure the head/valve springs are in perfect shape
Use the standard main jet 97.5, but as you get to higher altitudes remove the inner foam in the airbox. If its still feeling rich, remove the airbox lid.
Stiffen the clutch
Route the clutch cable from front forr better travel
Avoid a freeflow exhaust to maintain engine heat. Just use the stock exhaust. Anyways you are not taking part in a race.

YOu'll enjoy this set-up much better than what a Karizma/bullet can offer. I've ridden the others too.
The low CG of the Fiero will make it extremely agile.

Joel
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Old 17th September 2008, 18:24   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIKeINSTEIN View Post
The first gen Fiero was a bike with a brilliant engine but slightly dicey handling.
Prepped up appropraitely for a long ride, it performed fairly well on long, hard rides.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silver_shadow View Post
bikenstein:
what mods are we talking about on the fiero? would a swingarm change be good enough?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fieroid View Post
For a good terrain kinda ride, I'd suggest a light and reliable bike. With good wide-spread torque and also good fuel efficiency.
Thats when I'm reminded of the Fiero.
We have a plenty of Raid-de-Himalaya examples from our works and they are just flawless. About 3 yrs ago a few Fieros were sent to the Himalays to accomplish a Limca Record Run and it just did that perfectly.
Its quite an easy task to prepare one and its the cheapest bike to give the best fun. I have done my share of riding in terrain on Fieros and can vouch for it. Its light, flickable and so much forgiving. Just what you need!
You can get a 2002-2003 example for around 20k and you'll need to spend a few bucks to prepare it to full form and that it.
make sure you run slightly higher compression in the cylinder to get good performance at higher altitutes. The pace of the fieros are better than the bigger bikes in Raid Rallies mostly.

You dont need a swing arm change or anything. Stability and all is just a suspension tune away. The stock susp is really soft. Harden it and you have one of the best handlers. <---

Things to prepare it to full Rally trim,
Change rear rim to 18 or 16" Button tyres. Enduro tyres are best. use a tyre catcher to let the tyre remain in the rin in the event of a flat.
use a 2.75 * 18 enduro or semi dirt tyre.
Change front mud guard to a high stance dirt fender
Stiffen the front fork tubes by adding a 1 inch spacer
Rear use an endurance(not pulsars)/Victor GLX gas shox
Use a wider Custom - Rally handle bar

Engine,
Up the engine compression by atleast 20psi
Make sure the head/valve springs are in perfect shape
Use the standard main jet 97.5, but as you get to higher altitudes remove the inner foam in the airbox. If its still feeling rich, remove the airbox lid.
Stiffen the clutch
Route the clutch cable from front forr better travel
Avoid a freeflow exhaust to maintain engine heat. Just use the stock exhaust. Anyways you are not taking part in a race.

YOu'll enjoy this set-up much better than what a Karizma/bullet can offer. I've ridden the others too.
The low CG of the Fiero will make it extremely agile.

Joel
fieroid knows his stuff- rather his fiero very well.

Though it is very helpful but not necessary, neither am i very keen on the 16" wheels at the rear- unless one knows/learns to ride with one or rather drift around corners.
Playing with rims, sprockets and the necessitated power mods to engine are best left to extreme RAIDers.
We shall stick to Reliability class.
I was comfy with the stock 18" rim at the rear but the tyre should be used as per requirement.

There are various ways of stiffening front forks and fieroid has mentioned one.
The other way, usually followed on Shoguns/Shaolins (rally ones) and maybe fieros gen1 too was to replace the stock spring+hollow shaft with one full length spring (usually KB100/125 oem) and add appropriate amount of oil.
Rear shocks were the stiffer armstrong ones and now one has a far wider choice from other bikes in the same class, with gas ones available too.
Braking takes a hit (rather rider has to relearn braking) but most of these bikes were shod with discs up front.

We don't have proper aftermarket exhaust options and hence sticking to the stock is best though it is heavy and ungainly and a bit problemtaic on very rough terrain.
Else a light and properly designed exhaust system has a lot to offer even ona stock Fiero gen1.

It is a bit of a trial and error but with the right setup and mainly a "stiffer than stock" and properly "stanced" setup, a fiero gen1 flies.

If wishes were horses, i would still take my Shogun or a Fiero gen1 to such places and for most inter-city trips.

Sorry for this O/T stuff but since the mention and the query on the Fiero Gen1/F1 had come up, i couldn't leave it unanswered.
And is it just me or does everyone speak of upjetting these days as if changing undies-
why does everyone speak of any mods to the air-intake system demanding an upsizing of the jets?
ain't retuning the engine as per need an option anymore? :S

Last edited by BIKeINSTEIN : 17th September 2008 at 18:34.
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Old 17th September 2008, 19:25   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIKeINSTEIN View Post
why does everyone speak of any mods to the air-intake system demanding an upsizing of the jets?
ain't retuning the engine as per need an option anymore? :S
Excellent. You just said it.
You only need to tune an engine for what it needs.
Higher the altitude and you will need to go leaner on the jetting. What upjet then?

Ideally u need to run a 95 main jet, but then for a not-so-tech-savy rider increasing the aur flow will work the trick.

Again buddy, upping the compression on the Fiero, I've never seen any reliability issue and infact work best for the Fiero. Would make it much peppy and running higher compression means, your engine temperature will also remain higher in the colder regions. Which is a good thing.
About the freeflows, I've built tuned exhaust for the Raid Fieros and they were really fast.
Definetly using a freeflow will help reduce the weight and nothing like a light/flickable bike.
Been working on my Fiero since over 4 yrs now and my 144.4kmph attempt is the fastest set on a sub 200cc 4-stroke in the country, even sub 250cc.
I'm just working on my next level project!

Joel
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Old 17th September 2008, 19:27   #44
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About the 16" rear wheels, well I'm myself not a fan of anything smaller than 18" for dirt....but many buggers prefer them for those corner drifts. I find the 16" to be more back-breaking than 18" which can rather float over small pot holes.
Its again a personal choice.

Joel
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Old 18th September 2008, 02:21   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solly View Post
What snorkel are you talking about?? Isn't the zma leanly tuned, won't the extra air from the K&N actually ruin the performance if u don't upjet??
Its the air intake snorkel below the seat.
and the bleak performance of zma that was being talked about was at hig altitudes 12K ft+ here the air pressure is low as compared to the plains so the air fuel mixture comes to normal if you use a free flow filter without upjetting.
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